Difficult Trunk Opening Fix

RamMan4x4

Veteran Member
Joined
May 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'03 Jetta TDI
Writing a how to for this is above and beyond what is required for something this simple, but I had a difficult time finding any info on the topic and everyone pays more attention when there's pictures.

The trunk on my Jetta has always been difficult to open and close, but since it still popped when I pressed the button and didn't fall on my head I didn't think much of it. My wife always complained when we go on grocery runs but I always got a good laugh out of it so again, I didn't think much of it. Then this week two of my friends made a few comments about it on our way to the gym so I figured it was time to fix it...

So lets get down to it...generally speaking if you trunk/hatch is hard to open and easy to close your struts are bad. Basically you are having to lift the entire weight of the trunk on the way up and prevent the trunk from slamming on the way down. If this is the case, a new set of struts is probably all you need. I found some at TDIparts for a decent price http://tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=298. However, in my case, the trunk was difficult to open and difficult to close (it would literally stay where ever you left it when you took your hands off). In this case, it could be an internal failure of the strut causing resistance to movement in both directions or it could be stuck hinges. Before I spent any money, I wanted to see what was causing the problem and luckily it only takes a few minutes.

The trunk struts mount using a ball-socket hinge so all you need is small flat blade screw-driver to remove the clip that holds the strut to the trunk mount (leave the lower ball-socket alone for now). There's a small slot on the backside of the strut that makes it easy to get the screwdriver in there and either pry back or lift up. Use caution during removal because the clip could fly out if you're not careful.


You don't have to remove the clip all the way if you don't want to. All you need to do is move it up or back enough to free it from the ball on the trunk mount. You will want to have the trunk/hatch all the way open before you remove the strut. Basically you want to get the strut to the end of its travel before trying to remove it...otherwise its going to extend to the end of its travel as soon as you remove it and these little things are much stronger than they look.


Once the clip is out of the way, you can test the trunk strut to see if it is still providing enough force to lift the trunk. This is why I recommended leaving the lower mount on. With the top removed, rotate the strut so its pointing away from the car. Next get a good grip on the free end of the strut and try to compress it, the goal here is to see if it returns to the fully extended position when you let go. Like I said, these things are stronger than they look, I'm 6'2", 200lbs and I was barely able to get it to compress half the travel length. If your strut moves easily then they need to be replaced.


Since my struts were hard to compress and both returned to the fully extended position, I decided it must be the hinges. Again, this can be tested...not that there is a need to if you can rule out the struts but I did it anyway. With both struts removed, I moved the trunk up and down to see how much resistance was there. As it turns out, it was quite a bit. The trunk was still difficult to open and would slowly lower itself (as opposed to slamming shut, which is what it should have done with no struts).

The hinge joints are permanent connections that are not easily removed so I just used some penetrating oil to loosen the joints. White lithium grease would have been better, but I don't think it would have gotten into the joint as well as PO.


For a Jetta sedan, there are four joints that you will want to lubricate (I'm sure a golf and jetta wagon are similar), give each a few shots of PO and work the trunk lid up and down...you should notice it get easier to move pretty quickly. I did this cycle about three times or until it moved freely.


The last step is to reinstall the trunk strut and test it...now all my trunk needs is a small lift once you press the trunk release and the struts do the rest. Not a bad fix for $0.00. Of course to fully test it, I went for a grocery run with my wife and on the way out had her pop the trunk...I got the usual moans and groans as she was walking over to it about how heavy it was. She jumped back a little when it flew open on its own. Good times!!
 
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BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
After dowsing the joints with penetrating oil, clean and spray on some lithium grease (or other permanent)
 

PDJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 6, 2003
Location
Northern Virginia
TDI
'04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
As part of my 10,000 mile oil change and "lube" service, I hit all of the latches and hinges on the '04 with lubricant. For the rear hatch hinge pivot points, I use 15W-40 "Rotella" oil from an oil can. The oil is what I used in my the '85 Jetta TD's engine I used to have.

This keeps all the pivots nice and free and minimizes wear. I use just a drop on each pivot, work the pivot and come back an hour or so later and wipe up any drips.

The door hinges get the same oil and the door, hood, and trunk latches and the thingys that keep the doors from slaming shut get white lithium grease, as does the sunroof tracks.

--Nate
 
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RamMan4x4

Veteran Member
Joined
May 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'03 Jetta TDI
Good call on using the heavier stuff as a future preventative...I need to hit the guides on my sunroof with WLG anyway, I'll get all the other latches/hinges that Nate mentioned while I'm at it.
 

egibbys

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
1999 Jetta TDI GLS
Any idea how to install new shocks? The ones I just bought seem to be about 1/4 of an inch too long. It needs to be compress ever so slightly. I can't even budge the shock by hand. What do I do?
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
You might try to compress it with a ratchet strap.

It might take one person pushing and another operating the ratchet.

Just be sure to have the mounting points near the edge of the strap.
 

egibbys

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
1999 Jetta TDI GLS
Genius! I just did a test run and it looks like its going to work. I'll have to do it in the morning though. It's way too cold out there.
 

pro5utah

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Location
Utah
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS TDI
Didn't seem to work for me. I noticed that it is a little easier to open now (can open it with one hand instead of two) but I still have to lift the trunk open all the way and it will stay at any point that I leave it in.

Do I just need to keep cycling this thing and it will loosen up? I really do not want to drop $120 for 2 new hinges plus paint....
 

Votblindub

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2010
Location
NY
TDI
MK4 Jetta Wagon
ah, my trunk felt tight. i will try cleaning and greasing that. thank you :)
 

Ben4466

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Location
San Diego
TDI
Volkwswagon Jetta 1.9
Thank You for the how too on this. My 04 trunk is doing the same thing. Stuck and getting worse. I was going to order new struts figuring that was the issue. Now I don't have too.
 

rdclapham

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Location
Stratford ON
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI 1.9 ALH
A mechanic that services my company service van swears by cleaning out the hinges with spray carbeurator cleaner and then lubricating them. I have to say, I drove that van for 10 years and well over 400k Kms. There were points when I could barely open the cargo doors, take it to Dave and voila! the doors work.

My concern for other would be possible paint damage and such caused by carb cleaner. This was a company owned vehicle so I really was not concerned about dirty or discoloured hinges.

Any thoughts? It did work very well.
 

NewTdi

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 15, 2004
Location
NorCal
TDI
2003 Bora, Reflex Silver
Thanks, this fixed mine! I guess I will be using penetrating oil 1 or 2x year just to keep things working correctly.
 

RamMan4x4

Veteran Member
Joined
May 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'03 Jetta TDI
A mechanic that services my company service van swears by cleaning out the hinges with spray carbeurator cleaner and then lubricating them. I have to say, I drove that van for 10 years and well over 400k Kms. There were points when I could barely open the cargo doors, take it to Dave and voila! the doors work.

My concern for other would be possible paint damage and such caused by carb cleaner. This was a company owned vehicle so I really was not concerned about dirty or discoloured hinges.

Any thoughts? It did work very well.
Carb cleaner would help remove foreign particles in the joint, but it will probably eat away at the grease in the joint too. I think it would be useful as a cleaner followed by a lubricant. As mentioned, if you use this stuff you will want to protect your paint by using a rag to collect overspray and another rag to catch drips beneath the hinges.
 

RamMan4x4

Veteran Member
Joined
May 6, 2007
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
'03 Jetta TDI
Didn't seem to work for me. I noticed that it is a little easier to open now (can open it with one hand instead of two) but I still have to lift the trunk open all the way and it will stay at any point that I leave it in.

Do I just need to keep cycling this thing and it will loosen up? I really do not want to drop $120 for 2 new hinges plus paint....
We need a little more information:
- Do the struts appear to be ok (based on my highly scientific method mentioned earlier)?
- Is the trunk really difficult to open and close without the struts?

The hinges are pressed on pretty tight so I wouldn't be surprised if you had to work the trunk a lot to get oil to penetrate into them.
 

CopaMundial

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Location
Southeastern PA
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon 5sp (New to me Oct 2014) 03 Jetta 5sp (RIP Aug 2014)
Just gave mine the full treatment.

Tried some lube oil (chain lube from my motorcycle), but that didn't seem to get it done.
So I hit each hinge w/ some PB plaster (sprayed it on a toothbrush and then scrubbed each joint). Then I wiped that down really good to get the splatter off of the paint. Worked it back and forth about 20 times, wiped off excess again, and let it sit for about 20 minutes.
Then I cleaned the brush off w/ brake cleaner, shot each hinge w/ a little brake cleaner and scrubbed w/ brush. There was definitely some nastiness coming out of the cracks in the pivot joints... old grease, corrosion or whatever.
After that it was already feeling a lot better, so I finished it off w/ some of the 'special' sunroof lube, using a small paint brush to work it into all of the nooks and crannys.

Worked great.

I also replaced my trunk struts, just because I had bought new ones anyway, but I think the hinge cleaning did more than the new struts.
But +1 on the hint earlier in the thread. The new struts w/ a little longer than the originals. I was able to use a ratchet type nylon tie-down strap to compress it. Just put the top on first, then wrap the strap around it, compress, and push the bottom on while the strap is still in place.
 

WardB

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Location
Utah
TDI
2000 NB
I suggest using something to prop the hatch open on a NB before removing struts. I took the top of one strut off the ball and the hatch fell like a rock.

Result was strut being violently pinched between hatch and surrounding painted area. Imagine a strut sticking directly out the back of the car with the hatch fully closed.

I can see now how 2 x 4 or broom handle to prop the hatch open BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING would have prevented much profanity and body dent/paint chip.
 

azianjiu

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Location
Centreville, VA
TDI
2000 Jetta
Sigh my new struts are a few mm's too long as well. Ratchet straps it is. I find it hard to believe that they will work though (I am 6'0" 200lbs and I can't compress the new struts a bit). Without this post I am pretty sure I would be still out there trying to crutch them on haha.
 
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