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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old August 27th, 2009, 19:53   #1
Wally
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Default HELP! Beetle Hood Latch Confusion

So I have a 98 beetle that I was selling last fall. Actually sold it at full asking price pending a couple of odds and ends. One of these odds and ends was the newly replaced hood. The original had a dent and some road rash, so I got a replacement, had it painted and installed by a local body shop and it looks great!

Problem is VW obviously changed the latch design because this hood catches, but does not close. It is safe to drive, but is constantly in the "popped" position. After bringing it back they said they tried a new latch to no avail. After getting it back, months later (hence the loss of sale) a brief inspection revealed that nothing at all had been done.

The donor shop could not locate the car and get me its latch, every VW parts source says that all latch part numbers cross ref to each other and there is only one. This is obviously not true unless the newest part number super-cedes all previous revisions. But no one I've spoken with has this information. If there was such a revision, shouldn't the dealer know about it? Wouldn't there be a note? Worst yet, because the part is special order no one is willing to take the part back if it's the same as the one I have.

Any help is appreciated!

This is a picture of the catch inside the hood:

The slot to receive the latch is significantly smaller than the original hood. Note the couple of marks to the left of the catch-bar. This is the interference zone from the latch.

Here are a couple of shots of latch:

and


So, if someone has a hood that looks like the first picture, could you send me a picture of your latch along with the year and the number part of your VIN?

Of course, if someone knows the answer off the top of their head, that'd be great too.

Thanks in advance,

Wally II

PS-yes, the heavy duty "wire" is my beetle's hood "tongue". After it broke many years ago I decided I didn't want to risk another plastic one. No, it doesn't (and didn't) keep the hood from closing
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Last edited by Wally; August 28th, 2009 at 10:13.
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Old August 29th, 2009, 08:21   #2
gth
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Default Hood and latch adjusted?

It looks like there were 2 different "bonnets" available along with 2 different "bonnet lock-lower parts".
Hood 1: 1C0823031J - F?1CX?400001 -> F1?CY?465983
Hood 2: 1C0823031M - F?1VY?465984 ->
Latch 1: ALH, AEG, AVH, AZG
Latch 2: F?1CX?436512 APH, AWV ->
I don't know if that's what's keeping your hood from closing. I know nothing about beetles. One of these hoods might even be the carbon fiber one with the WRX-looking intake scoop only sold on models equipped with a club instead of a flower . Since the latch VINs don't match the hood VINs, I expect the difference to be something other than the latching part of the mechanism.

The picture with the marks is confusing me a bit. What on the latch is it hitting? Can you take a picture of the hood down but not latched? My interpretation of scale might be whacked, but the only thing that appears to be able to hit the hood on both front and rear sides of the slot is the frame-part of the latch connecting to the release lever.
Has the hood and latch alignment been done? There may be some close tolerances.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 14:59   #3
2004STARWARSTDI
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Default Hood latch

I have a feeling that your shop is feeding you a lot of B__l S__t. They just don't know how to adjust the hood or the latch and are telling you anything to get rid of you. Take it somewhere else!
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Old August 31st, 2009, 19:29   #4
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Unfortunately, that seems to be the case. So far looking into things further, makes that more apparent. They also did a door hinge on the driver's side and when I got it back the window didn't work an neither did the central locks. "Controller probably went bed" was the reply. I knew that was BS right off. IT worked when I dropped it and didn't work when I got it back. Turns out they plugged the window into the lock switch and vice versa. Can't entirely blame them for the mix-up in the first place - that's on the VW engineer that decided to choose the colors of the those respective connections (tan and black plastic) - they simply plugged the stuff by color. But I can blame them for a) not fixing it when they put it back together and b) lying.

Anyway, I went out and looked closer. Up inspection, the passenger side of the hood is is touch the fender before the latch engages. It IS a tight tolerance fit. For months now, by eye, it looked all the world like the latch. At this point it would surprise me if they banged those dents in there to get rid of me.

In any event, stay away from clifton park auto body. I'll let you know how it works out. But at this point I think I'm going to call a dealer unless I get a better recommendation.

Thanks for the input
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Old September 4th, 2009, 02:34   #5
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Calling the dealer after getting run over by a bad shop is a sign of masochism. Do you have a TDI mechanic in your area? I know it's not TDI specific, but you’re more likely to get the straight scoop and pointed in the right direction.
I’d try to adjust the hood myself before calling a dealer. It doesn’t latch anyway, right? I am body work dumb, but seeing if you can get the thing to latch after loosening everything up would be a sign of hope. Worst case, you can always tighten it back and have a hood that doesn't latch...
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Old September 8th, 2009, 18:40   #6
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Yeah, yeah, hit me baby one more time...

I've already adjusted one side more forward. I think I'll try loosening both sides and find where it closes and go from there. If not, then I'll try another body shop. I got a recommend from some of the guys at German Autoparts the other day.
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Old September 20th, 2009, 18:01   #7
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Ok, so I tried my hand at it. The hinges move both back and forth and up and down. I tried the extreme locations (I think, it was hard to move in only one direction) with no luck. So it's off to a shop. I'll let you all know what I come up with...
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Old March 31st, 2011, 16:37   #8
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So here we go. It took a while, but I finally got a picture of what the underside of my original hood looked like. As you can by comparing with the picture above, that there is a distinctly different hood and latch combination for different beetles. Clearly, the area for the catch is larger and offers no interference to the latch like my current hood does.

So, I will remake my original request to all you beetle owners out there and anyone that you know, can you please check the underside of your hood and if it looks like the photo at the top of this thread, could you please find the part number for your latch and post it?
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Old April 1st, 2011, 05:43   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post


So here we go. It took a while, but I finally got a picture of what the underside of my original hood looked like. As you can by comparing with the picture above, that there is a distinctly different hood and latch combination for different beetles. Clearly, the area for the catch is larger and offers no interference to the latch like my current hood does.

So, I will remake my original request to all you beetle owners out there and anyone that you know, can you please check the underside of your hood and if it looks like the photo at the top of this thread, could you please find the part number for your latch and post it?
I know I'll catch hell for this, but I'd adjust the hood so it looks right. Mark where it hits the latch, and grind it down so it will fit in the latch. Then I would send it on it's way.
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Old April 1st, 2011, 11:24   #10
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First you need to be able to adjust the hood. There should be ample room where the hinges bolt to the hood. This may fix the one side hits first problem also.

Good luck, and get a friend to help.
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Old April 4th, 2011, 14:02   #11
Wally
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Zkeele,
I've been thinking that for some time. What gives me pause is, if you look at the very first picture, where the griding would need to take place is right where the rod that makes the catch goes. I'm referring to the 2 spots to the left of the catch - those are the wear marks from the contact points. The upper one could be cut out no problem. The lower one may or may not cause structural issues for the catch. The only way to find out is to cut it. I'd rather not.

Powder Hound,
Unfortunately, this is mechanical interference, not an adjustment. I wish that it were...

So, has anyone seen these hood/latches?
It would figure that the TDIs only had one kind, but I'm hoping it might be a year thing.

Thanks in advance.
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Old April 12th, 2014, 19:35   #12
wdtony
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Default Hood latch problem FIXED

I wanted to add my experience here since I finally fixed mine. And seems like everywhere online a lot of people had a problem with this.

OK -


2000 VW beetle. Hood was difficult to close to begin with, had to slam it hard to close it all the way.

Hit some road debris so had to have the broken radiator and plastic holder replaced by mechanic.

Back from repairman, hood only closed correctly twice with very hard slams. Then the plastic piece broke from slamming so hard. After that I fashioned a metal piece from a wire hanger but couldn't get hood to close all the way. Bent the primary catch on the hood latch due to slamming. Bent it back but realized slamming was not an option.

Replaced the hood latch and plastic latch lever with new parts just to rule out faulty mechanism. Tried several adjustments but could not get hood to close. Tested both latch mechanisms out of the car and both functioned normally.

I reamed out the bottom of the bolt holes to raise the latch mechanism (on the latch mechanism) about 1/4 inch more. Still would not close. No more travel at the bolt holes or the secondary plastic lever would not function at such an angle.

Looked at hood alignment and realized the mechanic must have removed hood for the radiator job. I could tell the hood bolts had been moved and the alignment was off when the hood was put back on.

I loosened the 4 hood bolts, still wouldn't close while loose. I re-positioned the hood and held it in place while I tightened the bolts back down. I guessed where it should be by the marks near the bolt brackets and by eye-balling it.

Voila, the hood closed perfectly without much pressure at all. I was shocked.

I then moved the latch assembly down about 1/8th inch and took off 2 rubber bumpers from hood to see if misalignment was the only issue. Hood would not close. Latch height was also an issue.

I moved hood latch back to highest reamed position, put rubber bumpers at lowest position and the hood closed perfectly again. I then adjusted the bumpers until the hood wouldn't close and then backed them off a half turn.

Hood now closes easily and perfectly.

2 assumptions/fixes -

1, The hood alignment had been altered by mechanic and misaligned. This is important to hood latching. Hood bolts must be tightened down to properly close into the latch. Something to do with the curved shape of the hood I assume.

2, The height of the radiator assembly and chassis that holds the latch assembly seems susceptible to vertical misalignment (bending) due to repeated hood slams and or misalignment upon repairs. Fix by somehow raising chassis by force and/or reaming out bolt holes on latch mechanism.

Hope this helps someone.
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Old April 13th, 2014, 06:43   #13
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I just looked at the hoods and latches on the 3 Beetle I have. 2000,2002 and 2003. The 2002 and 2003 have the larger cut out in the hood to accept the latch. The 2000 has the smaller cut out,BUT I'm not sure the hood on the 2000 is OEM hood. Maybe the aftermarket hoods have the small cut out.

Latches appear to all be the same,but I'm not sure where the part numbers are?
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