How to replace your MkIV's front wheel bearings

scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
How to Change a Front Wheel Bearing on a MkIV A-Platform VW in Eleven Million Easy Steps.

UPDATE JANUARY 2018: Fixed the pictures?



HOLY CRAP GUYS! I finally put together a video showing the noise from a bad wheel bearing and some of the other updates what have transpired in this thread over the past hojillion years. Take a look and lemme know what you think.

I took these pictures to illustrate the process of removal & replacement of a bad front wheel bearing in my 2006 Golf GLS TDI, as I was sick and tired of the constant noise. Mine was worst at about 35 - 40 mph, which is right about normal city speed for me. Man, that was annoying.

I've also seen writeups that require $500 specialized pullers. I intended this to be cheaper to do for the occasional home mechanic. You can get everything you need to do this for about $100 if you had to buy it all from scratch. Another $50 for supplies and a wheel bearing kit and it's still only half the cost of having a stealership do it for you.

Step 0: Diagnosis.
Once you've heard the "whrowhrowhrowhrowhrowhrow" groan of a bad wheel bearing, you'll never forget it. But if you've never heard it, it usually manifests itself as a deep groaning noise that increases tempo with speed. It sounds very similar to a square tire. It will often go away when turning right or left. This is usually the way to diagnose which front bearing is bad - conventional wisdom is that if the noise goes away when you turn left (and thereby load the driver's side bearing and unload the passenger side bearing), then it is the passenger side bearing that is bad. This is often wrong and is almost always dumb! DUMB AS HELL. MkIV VWs have double-row angular contact bearings, so when you turn one way you unload one set of bearings and load the other set in the same bearing shell.

To be certain which one is bad, put the front end of the car up on jackstands. Put parking brake on. With car idling, put it in 5th gear and let the clutch out. The side with the bad bearing should be making that gawdawful racket. Disclaimer: this is dangerous. Don't get near the spinning wheels. Use good jackstands. Don't be stupid.

Tools:
Harbor Freight front wheel drive bearing removal kit, item 45210 EDIT: apparently superseded by item 66829 (although both appear on their 'new' website - check what your local store has in stock).
Big sockets to run the bearing removal kit - six point 28mm & 32mm (EDIT: MOGolf says a 27mm socket fits better on his. 28mm is quite snug on mine so check your own set before you start).
An impact gun really helps - I have a 110VAC electric one.
The longest breaker bar you can find that fits your big sockets. Two if you don't have an impact wrench.
30mm 12-point socket.
7mm hex key or allen wrench or hex wrench or allen key. Whatever you call it, it isn't a "standard" size in most hex sets.
Grease. I used Valvoline Synpower synthetic grease.
Beefy snap ring pliers.
A big 3-jaw puller.
A 5 pound slide hammer. Rent this from AutoZone - OEM 27033.
Some manner of Dremel-type rotary tool with a billion cutoff wheels. Seriously, more is always better than not enough.
Big hammer & cold chisel.
The usual assortment of hand tools, sockets, penetrating oil & beer.

Like most things that don't get "maintenance", this is divided up into four segments: Get to the bearing; Remove the old bearing; Put the new bearing in & put the stuff back together.

Part A: GET TO DA BEARING
Part B: Pull my strings.
Part C: P-p-p-push it! Push it real good!
Part D: I likes to torque-it, torque-it.

More information and pictures to follow.
 
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scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Part A: GET TO DA BEARING

So, at this point I assume you have the necessary supplies, tools, a front wheel bearing kit and know which bearing is bad. Since I only get 10 pictures per post, I have skipped some of the easy steps. If you need help with those, get someone else to do this for you, seriously.
Put the front of the car up on jackstands. I prefer to put them under the subframe bolts.


Remove the wheel. Take out the 2 caliper retaining bolts (7mm hex - usually not in most hex key sets) and hang the brake caliper up out of the way.


Remove the brake disc retaining bolt - this may be easier to do with the brake caliper still on and someone holding the brakes or with a screwdriver stuck into the vents to keep the rotor from turning (thanks MOGolf!). Mine was a Torx, which was a rolling change from the Philips head used previously. You may need a hand impact driver and hammer. Remove the disc. Also remove the three bolts and the dust shield.


Bust loose the axle retaining nut with the 30mm 12-point socket on your impact gun. MOGolf reckons this may be easier to do with the car still on the ground with the wheel center cap removed - definetely the case if you don't have an impact. You may also want to stick a screwdriver in the vents to keep the disc from rotating if you haven't removed it yet.

Scribe lines around the balljoint plate on the underside of the control arm and remove the 3 bolts holding it in. Since I live in the rust belt, it was painfully obvious where it attached and it wasn't necessary. This will help you line up the balljoint so you won't necessarily need an alignment afterwards.

Assemble your big 3-jaw puller. Mine is a cheap six incher and worked fine. Squirt a little penetrating oil on the axle splines before you start and grease the threads of the puller. Have it grasp onto the meat of the hub, but not the ABS sensor wheel. Tighten the puller to push the axle out of the hub.


Once the steering knuckle is free of the axle, it will swing out of the way. Gently lay the axle/CV joint assembly down onto the top of the lower control arm.


Now, take your slide hammer and put the shaft through the wheel hub. Put one of the hardened washers from the wheel bearing removal kit on the end and put the nut on the end. The next bit took a bit of balance. Whilst seated on a milk crate, I held the slide hammer up with my right hand, propped a foot against the steering knuckle to put a little bit of tension on the hammer and moved the slide weight with my left hand. Fiddly, but it worked. Three sharp raps and it started to move. Another few and it came right out. As shown below, L -> R.
1: Nut.
2: Hardened washer.
3: Hub with inner race stuck on it.
4: Sliding hammer weight (used left hand to move).
5: Slide hammer handle (used right hand to hold).


And viola! The wheel bearing is exposed. The outboard inner race is stuck on the hub and the inboard bearings and cage are shown here, still installed in the steering knuckle.


Next, you get to remove the remainder of the bearing, and it's gonna fight you every step of the way.
 
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scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Pull my strings

Now that the wheel bearing is exposed, it's time to get that bastid outta there.
First, get the circlip out of the way. Mine was rusted in pretty well, but after I got one end out with circlip pliers, I was able to work a big screwdriver around to remove it.



Now pull out the bearing kit and start looking at the push discs what came with it. Pick the one that's just slightly smaller than the wheel bearing but fits in the hole in the back of the steering knuckle but will catch the outer shell of the bearing (you can check it against the exposed end of the bearing to be sure). Put the disc against the back of the wheel bearing with the raised center portion toward the bearing. Put the threaded rod through the bearing and disc with a washer between them, then one of the large tube pieces and a flat plate on it to form a cup. The bearing will get pushed into this cup. Then place a washer and the "long" nut that came with the kit. See the picture below - it was taken after the bearing was removed but better illustrates how to assemble the bearing removal kit. L -> R:

1. Nut welded onto the end of the threaded rod.
2. Hardened washer.
3. Bearing push disc (MOGolf says this is piece #13 from his kit).
4. Old wheel bearing.
5. Tube portion of cup (MOGolf suggests putting the thicker end against the steering knuckle).
6. Flat plate portion of cup.
7. Hardened washer.
8. Long nut.



Grease all the surfaces what touch each other and especially the threaded rod and the "long" nut (part 8 - the threaded part faces left in that picture). When assembled through the steering knuckle & remaining bearing, it will look like this:



Put the 28mm (or 27mm) six-point socket on the back, put on the longest breaker bar you've got and rest it on the floor. A chunk of wood under the end of the breaker bar isn't a bad idea. Snug up the "long" nut on the front with the 32mm six-point socket & another breaker bar or ratchet, keeping the "cup" flat and firm on the steering knuckle.
Put on your earmuffs, get out the impact gun and prepare thyself. This bearing will fight you every step of the way, and it will be a total pain in your rear. Don't give up hope. It took nearly a full minute of hammering on it with my Harbor Fart electric impact gun before it started to move. Once it starts to move, don't let up! Chase that bastard out while it's moving!


Eventually, it will come out. Or it won't, and you'll have to pull the steering knuckle out completely, take it to a machine shop and have them press the bearing out with a hydraulic press. Either way, once it's out, take a deep breath - the hard part's over.
But you still have to contend with the OTHER part of that damned bearing - the outboard inner race that's still stuck on the hub. You might get lucky and it may want to move on its own, so give it a little spray with penetrating oil.



The easiest way in my opinion to get this off is to slice down the side with a small cutoff wheel on your rotary tool of choice. Put it in a vise so you can hold it securely, and go easy and slow. Check it once in a while so you don't go too deep. You may be able to get it to move with a cold chisel and hammer after you've got a slot cut in the race. I had to cut all the way through mine to get it to budge. If you nick the hub slightly, it will be OK. Sand it lightly and try not to make it worse. I tried to use a small puller to remove the bearing race but to no avail. Cutting the race off is much easier and faster.
Below is the hub with the bearing race removed.



Now then, the REAL hard part is over. Clean up the steering knuckle bore with a wire brush to get it ready for the next part. Wipe off the ABS sensor with a rag while you're at it. Take a break; you've earned a wobbly pop.
 
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scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Part C: P-p-p-push it! Push it real good!

Now that everything's out and clean, it's time for the 3rd step: Putting the sh!t back in the horse. ;)

UPDATE JANTEMBER 2018: While everything's apart and the hub out of the way, this is an EXCELLENT opportunity for you to replace the ABS sensor if it's giving you any issues. You will not get better access to it than what you have right now, so think real hard if you need to do anything with it now.

Remember that bearing push disc you used to remove the bearing? Put it back in the case. Now you need to pick one bigger than that, one that is just as big as the wheel bearing OD, possibly ever so slightly smaller. You could even use the old bearing you took out as the pushing disc if you wanted - you know it's the right size.

Put on your nitrile gloves, get two fingers of synthetic grease ready and really smear that grease in the steering knuckle bore. Get in in there good, but don't just glob it everywhere. A decent thin coat is better than a couple sloppy chunks.

Now you're going to assemble the kit to push the new bearing in place. Put one of the "tube" plates (IIRC, the smaller of the two) or one of the pusher discs and a flat washer on the back of the steering knuckle and put the threaded rod through it with the nut on the back. MOGolf suggests using plate #13 to push (the same one you used to remove the bearing) & #6 (the smaller of the two unnumbered plates) on the back.Then the new wheel bearing, the pusher plate and the long nut. Before you tighten up anything, read this statement: ONLY PUSH ON THE BEARING OUTER SHELL. DO NOT PUSH ON THE INNER RACE.

Reread that statement. Figure out which way to turn the bearing pusher plate. Grease the hardened washers and threaded rod again. Put it all together with the long breaker bar on the back. Snug up by hand, then by wrench or breaker bar. When you've got it all lined up, start pushing the new bearing in with quick bursts from the impact gun (earmuffs please!) - or by hand. MOGolf reports being able to get his back in entirely by hand. If you're pressing on the outer shell AND ONLY THE OUTER SHELL, the bearing will align itself somewhat and get pushed in. Push the bearing FULLY into the steering knuckle bore.
Before:


After (rear view):


Wipe up any of the excess grease and use it to give the bearing and steering knuckle a light coat of grease. Install the retaining circlip from your wheel bearing kit - my Bentley says to install it with the opening down, as shown.


Eagle-eyed readers will notice the bearing seals are differently colored in this last picture; that is because I was a MORON and forgot to install the circlip before pressing in the hub. So I had to make a flying trip to G&H Import Auto, buy a whole new bearing, re-remove the hub, re-remove the bearing and re-cut the inner race off the hub. Live and learn: don't forget the circlip.

Now flip the pushing discs around for installing the hub. These should ONLY press against the inner race of the bearing. Grease the inner surface of the bearing and/or the hub, line it up and press it through the bearing, similar to installing the bearing. Please remember when installing the bearing into the steering knuckle, only press on the OUTER SHELL of the bearing (with the pusher disc on the front; the one on the back should press against the steering knuckle). When installing the hub into the bearing only press on the INNER RACE of the bearing. DO NOT PRESS THE HUB INTO THE BEARING WITHOUT SUPPORTING THE BACK OF THE INNER RACE. This is why the pushing discs have a raised center portion! MOGolf suggests using the #13 plate on the backside of the bearing full-width flat side against the bearing.

Seat the hub fully through the bearing so the ABS encoder wheel is only a less than a millimeter from the ABS sensor. Make sure you didn't bend anything by spinning the hub by hand - it should move smoothly.


Nice. That's pretty much it for the bearing & hub.
 
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scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Part D: I likes to torque-it, torque-it.

Now you just have to button everything back up.

Reinstall the brake caliper dust cover and the three 8mm bolts.

Put a light coat of grease on the hub splines and insert the stub axle through it. Don't let the other end come out of the transmission.

Put the balljoint bracket back in the control arm and line it up with the scribed lines or rust marks. Reinstall the three bolts, torque to 20 Nm + 1/4 turn. I used 25 Nm and called it even.

Replace the brake disc and install its retaining screw. Snug is good enough.

Replace the brake caliper and slider pins. Torque to 28 Nm.

Install the new 12 point nut on the axle shaft. My electric impact will really only run something up to about 100 ft-lbs or so, so I snugged it on very well.


Then put the wheel back on minus the center cap.

12 point nut torquing procedure, according to the Bentley:
Weight of the vehicle must be on its wheels.
First, tighten to 200 Nm.
Immediately loosen 1/2 turn.
Roll car to turn wheel 1/2 turn.
Tighten nut to 50 Nm + 1/6 turn.

I did this, but plus about 1/4 turn on the last tightening. This nut is one of the tightest on the car and there's virtually no downside to making it a bit tighter than spec. Some folks like to put a dab of blue loctite on the threads as well. I had one side installed without the weight of the car on the wheels solely with an air impact wrench on a medium torque setting - probably 200 ft-lbs or so. Both sides seem to be doing fine. Use your best judgement which one works best for you.

Enjoy your new, quiet car. Ahhh, blissfully silent!

Bad wheel bearing post-mortem inspection.
Here are some pictures of the bad wheel bearing after it spent a day in a parts washer. Notice the pitting & fretting on the races, all the corossion on the outer shell & how dull the balls appear:






Yeah, it was ugly. No wonder it was making a hell of a racket. Compare to the new bearing I had to remove after forgetting to install the circlip.


This is not a crazy difficult job, but there are a number of pitfalls. If you screw something up mid-stream, you'll have a car out of commission. If you're unsure about this in any way, or don't have a backup vehicle, or don't have ALL the tools, or don't have an afternoon to spend doing this the first time; DON'T DO IT. Take the car to a guru instead. If you're in the Chicago area, I can highly recommend jobob307 or JasonTDI.
 
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greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
Nice pictures of the failed bearings. I've never pulled one apart to see how nasty they can get.

On really stuck snaprings it helps to hit the back of the snapring with a chisel to unseat it from its rusted groove. Do both sides.



When removing/installing the axle nut, leave the rotor installed and slide a screwdriver into one of the cooling ducts to counterhold against the caliper sliding surfaces. (for those without an impact)

A smaller, modified two-jaw puller will remove the inner race stuck on the hub.
 
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Gearhead51

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Location
Suwanee (Atlanta), GA
TDI
2000 Jetta
I made that stuff out of plumbing supplies and threaded rod a few years back. It worked fine on my MK1. I wonder if it'll work on my MK4s.

I normally put my new bearings in the freezer before I start. That way, when it's time to put them in, they're slightly undersize. I also heat the knuckle a little with a propane torch or a heat gun before sliding them in. Most of the time, they'll slide in with minimal effort until the temperatures equalize, so go quickly. I also stick the hub in the freezer for the same reason, but I'm not heating the bearing with a propane torch. Ha ha.
 

Kite Baron

Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2006
Location
Central MA
TDI
2) 2003 Jetta TDI's
Scurvy,
Your write up includes the pictures left out by others. I spent most of yesterday afternoon trying to get the bearing out. Your slide hammer picture made it work. Mine took about 20 hits. The bearing pressed out with the HF kit no problem. Thanks for a great post.
 

VA2002TDI

New member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Location
Virginia
TDI
2002 Jetta
Just replaced both wheel bearings on Saturday using scurvy’s procedure.
Everything went smooth – not a single expletive was shouted out!

Thanks for the great post scurvy!

BTW, when pulling the hub, I didn’t have a suitable hardened washer in my inventory so I used the old axle nut instead. Worked like a champ.

Steve
 

scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Kite Baron said:
Your slide hammer picture made it work. Mine took about 20 hits.
Some of them can be quite stuck - when it comes to smacking the slide hammer, you've GOT to do it as hard as you possibly can and as many times as you can right off the bat. Glad to hear you got it out.
VA2002TDI said:
when pulling the hub, I didn’t have a suitable hardened washer in my inventory so I used the old axle nut instead

Good to know that will work in a pinch. What did you use to press the bearing in or out with? My HF wheel bearing kit came with two of the hardened/plated washers.

scurvy
 

VA2002TDI

New member
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Jul 15, 2009
Location
Virginia
TDI
2002 Jetta
Originally posted by scurvy
Good to know that will work in a pinch. What did you use to press the bearing in or out with? My HF wheel bearing kit came with two of the hardened/plated washers.
I used the HF wheel bearing kit also but didn't open it up until after the hub was off and I forgot about the washers. Yep, one of the two washers in the kit would have worked. D'oh!
 

SS930

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2003
Location
CT shoreline
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI, 2015 A3 TDI
Great write-up!

I'm not sure I have the time or the desire to spend the money on the tools needed to change my wheel bearings... any idea what the dealer charges for doing this job?
 

scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
SS930 said:
I'm not sure I have the time or the desire to spend the money on the tools needed to change my wheel bearings... any idea what the dealer charges for doing this job?
Probably enough of the former to DIY and enough of the latter to do buy all the tools necessary and do both fronts. And have enough left over to buy yourself a decent steak dinner.
 

Ian F

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2002
Location
Croydon, PA
TDI
Jetta Wagon, 2003, Indigo Blue
Not to mention the time... For me, it takes less time to DIY the hub bearings than to deal with dropping the car off at a shop and picking it up again. First one took a awhile as I was figuing it out and screwing up. The other side took less than an hour.

I have the OTC hub-tamer kit (I'm a tool-junky) and did this about a year ago, but remember it being about the same.

Oddly enough, even at a 150K miles of Northeast driving (salt), I didn't have to use a puller to get the hub off the axle. Just smacked the end of the axle with a plastic dead-blow mallet and the axle slid through easily.

I also forgot that danged c-clip on the first install... :rolleyes: ...fortunately, the local Pep Boys had the bearing in stock.
 

PDJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 6, 2003
Location
Northern Virginia
TDI
'04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
I think in Northern Virginia the independent shops charge in excess of $400 to do both sides, maybe even $500.

--Nate
 

scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Ian F said:
I have the OTC hub-tamer kit (I'm a tool-junky) and did this about a year ago, but remember it being about the same.

Oddly enough, even at a 150K miles of Northeast driving (salt), I didn't have to use a puller to get the hub off the axle. Just smacked the end of the axle with a plastic dead-blow mallet and the axle slid through easily.
The OTC hub-tamer kit is a brilliant bit of kit and very nice... but you can buy all of the tools necessary to do it this way from scratch, two wheel bearings kits and a case of good beer for the same coin (and probably have some left over ;)). For the occasional bearing change the Horrible Freight kit works just dandy. Most definitely not as slick as the OTC kit and it probably won't give you the tool junkie fix you're looking for either.

I personally don't like hitting the axle with anything. I suggested a puller to more gently push which should lessen the chance of damaging the CV joints. Mine slid through without issue either.
 

Ian F

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Joined
Sep 26, 2002
Location
Croydon, PA
TDI
Jetta Wagon, 2003, Indigo Blue
Well, I've just had too many issues with H-F tools that require any sort of close-tolerance fit to trust them. Plus, I work on other cars besides the TDI. Actually, my VW is the car I wrench on least often (mostly MINI's).

After reading all of the DIY's, I was expecting to use a puller, but didn't have to... actually, now that I remember (did this over a year ago), the axle splines broke free after I had loosened the axle nut, but was busting my butt to get the brake rotor off (which had seized on the hub).
 

Bikoman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2002
Location
Kentucky
I have always used anti-seize on the axles when I replace them, then when you do anything in the future they slide right out :)
 

tdispeed

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Location
Brunswick, MD
TDI
2005 Audi S4, 2012 Mazda 2
I just did this. Only took me about 35-40 minutes to pull and replace the bearing. The hardest part for me was getting the new c-clip back in... my pliers suck! I also bought new hubs instead of pulling the inner races off my old ones (I'll take the old ones to a machine shop and have em pull them off for me so I have them as spares).

I'm doing the drivers side tomorrow. Overall, a pretty easy job. Integral tools: HF puller, slide hammer, impact gun. I could not find a 28mm socket anywhere. I ended up using a 1 1/8" socket from pep boys. The 32mm was easy to find in an impact socket.
 

mannytranny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Location
CA
TDI
02 Jetta (sold, such a great car) '16 Touareg
I was quoted $500 by a local VW repair shop.

I decided to DIY.

Another option is to take off the spindles and have a shop press the bearings out and in for you. I took that route, cost $35. Much easier.
 

Sets_Chaos

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Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Location
Sacramento, Peoples Republic of California
TDI
99 New Beetle TDI
So, just as a confirmation more than anything, when I'm heading down the road, I have a noise the increases with vehicle speed, not engine speed. It sounds kind of like a prop on a plane at speed. Kinda like "Whopwhopwhopwhop". This is most likely a wheel bearing, correct? It's definitely f/p/s, whatever it is.
 

scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Location
Chicago IL USA
TDI
2006 Golf
Sets_Chaos said:
So, just as a confirmation more than anything, when I'm heading down the road, I have a noise the increases with vehicle speed, not engine speed. It sounds kind of like a prop on a plane at speed. Kinda like "Whopwhopwhopwhop". This is most likely a wheel bearing, correct?
The "whopwhopwhopwhop" isn't exactly how I'd describe the noise my bad bearing made - mine was more of a rhythmic growl. But it did increase with vehicle speed and was independent of engine speed. It would also go away when turning left and was the worst at about 35 - 40 mph.

But since yours definitely increases with vehicle speed, you know it's somewhere past the clutch - transmission, axles, wheel bearing, brakes, wheels or tires.
 

tdispeed

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Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Location
Brunswick, MD
TDI
2005 Audi S4, 2012 Mazda 2
If you turn either direction, does the noise go away? the bearings load and unload when you turn. If axles were the problem, I think you'd hear the noise regardless of turning either direction.

My wheel bearings in the past have been "whomp whomp" kinds, somewhat similar to this one, although this one made more of a humming noise.

I would turn right, and the noise would go away. Ended up being my passenger side bearing. I'm doing the drivers one now just because I have the parts and tools now.
 

baldwin_f

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Location
Alexandria, VA
TDI
02 Jetta Auto-5Spd
Any idea on how to diagnose with an auto trans? I started to hear a humming sound and it increases with speed somewhere around 40-60
 

kjohnson78

Member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Location
Wetaskiwin, AB, Canada
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI
Thanks to these instructions, the hardest part about replacing the wheel bearing on my 02 Jetta was finding my chisel to get the inner race off. All I have left to do is return the "rental" FWD bearing tool.
 

Ron 33

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2000
Location
South Carolina
TDI
Y2K Jetta GLS Atlantic Blue, Manual
Nice write up Scurvy.

Doin' mine this weekend. Been noisy for a while.

Does anyone know how long a bearing will make noise before catastrophic failure?
 
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