tdi rabbit pickup mk1

Figured I would dump the rest of the build under this title instead of the power steering pump eliminator.

Looking for some advice here, I just put a tdi with the 02A transmission in my caddy and find that the radiator fan now hits the starter solenoid. Even shimming the fan forward still doesn't clear the solenoid.

I'm thinking I may have to go with an aftermarket fan that mounts flat against the radiator. Anyone have good experience with these fans? Am I correct in assuming they wouldn't need a shroud as well? Theres a photo over at http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?p=274272#post274272

Thanks,
Dave

how bad does it hit? Could you just trim the blades?

I think a lot of the aftermarket fans have a "shroud" built into the fan in the form of a ring that is on the tips of the blades.

I would just run this:



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D365&N=700+115&autoview=sku

It should bolt right on if you're using the stock radiator. It would probably take a little work to make it fit a later radiator.

put the fan in front of the radiator and wire it to push instead of pull.

who made the 02a mounts? it seems like the trans is too far forward and causing this problem. The last TDI caddy that I built had no problem clearing the fan blades.

Tranny mounts where built by wrd, they took way longer than they should of to arrive but appeared to bolt in correctly.

I have found that by shimming the fan the whole way forward towards the radiator, at an angle, to the point that I can just get a whole nut on the bolts it "just" clears the starter. I think G60's idea is a good one for an aftermarket electric slim line fan wired as a "pusher". I have a homemade "grease car" kit on this vehicle so space is precious, getting the fan on the other side of the radiator would be helpful, assuming it fits up there of course…..

Is your trans in and clutch operational? How does it feel? My clutch is slipping in my mtdi truck, and I'm only running like 15 psi boost, but it starts sliping at like 12 psi... I'm thinking of upgrading to the 02A tdi trans, but it looks expensive... My other option is running a tougher clutch, but reading about those makes me think they aren't so great for daily drivers...
And what did you do about drive axles?

doing the same thing - need advice

David,

I am getting set to put a TDI with 02A transmission in my 82 rabbit truck...
I have a few questions about how you've done things, if you don't mind..

1. How did you make a working shifter?
2. what did you do for a clutch cable to hydrollic converter?
3. do I need special or custom axles?

I'm sure I have more, that's the obvious ones for now!
Thanks for your time...

--John

energy said:

Is your trans in and clutch operational? How does it feel? My clutch is slipping in my mtdi truck, and I'm only running like 15 psi boost, but it starts sliping at like 12 psi... I'm thinking of upgrading to the 02A tdi trans, but it looks expensive... My other option is running a tougher clutch, but reading about those makes me think they aren't so great for daily drivers...
And what did you do about drive axles?

Click to expand...

020s are junk and you will go through a couple eventually and then decide an 02A is the right choice. The main expense is the purchase of the cable clutch and mounts as 02a/02js are so common now adays in the junkyards

G60ING said:

020s are junk and you will go through a couple eventually and then decide an 02A is the right choice. The main expense is the purchase of the cable clutch and mounts as 02a/02js are so common now adays in the junkyards

Click to expand...

Local guy here has his original 3+E box behind a mildly modded AHU and has had no problems. So long as you are not abusing it, they hold up fine in a feather-weight A1 pickup. He is running a stock A2 8-valve 1.8L clutch and flywheel.

My 020 has 431k miles on it, thank you very much

I've never owned one (12+ years and I've always had an 02A or 02J) but I have seen so many of them with rivots that have poked holes in bell housing or gears that failed. This is with people that have been mostly mk/mk2/mk3 stock but don't drive them in economy mode if you get what I mean. Granted I've also seen friends put some power though them but when I do my 1.8T swap in my rabbit I won't mess around with a 020.

Seen rivets come off the diffs on ALL VAG transmissions, but yeah the 020s were worse for that. However I would not consider them a bad unit at all. Typically their biggest issue was if they had a minor leak (such as output flange seals) that allowed them to get low on oil. Then 5th gear, which just like the 02A and 02J, rides outside the main case, would run dry and cook itself.

The 020 was not ever intended to be used in really heavy cars nor with high output engines. It was designed for use in the 1800 lb 1974 Golf (Rabbit here) with a ~50hp engine that had very little torque. So even a stock AHU will nearly double the hp and and tq it was designed to handle. However, the later units, particularly the '86-on 020, gained many improvements over the earlier ones that allowed them to be more durable and handle the ~100hp engines in the ~2800 lb A2 and A3s without much troubles.

Their biggest limiting factor to me is the goofy clutch design. The highest output engine ever used with one was the 16v 2.0L 9A engine found in some late A2 GLIs, and even that engine is no contest for some of the modern engines we have access to today.

Much of it really involves how you drive them, I think. Jerking the driveline can be really hard on a manual transmission's internals, as is improper gear changes/clutch use.

I think I drive this little truck pretty conservatively--definitely not peeling out from stops or anything, but I do like to ride that torque curve, it just feels so nice! I first started noticing the slipping going from 4th to 5th, when the rpms are right in their powerband. The 5 speed I'm using is an ASF from a '91 jetta gasser. If I go to an 02a, then how'm I going to run a speedo--my AHU has a mechanical pump... Didn't mean to hijack your thread, davidpa...

I would just get a higher-performance clutch for your existing setup if it were me. You should already have the larger flywheel (but I may be wrong on that). There are several companies that make stronger clutches, but you may need to step up to an 020 that has the chunkier input shaft like all the 16 valvers and the A3s. Or just swap the shaft.

doing the hydro clutch & proper mounts for the 02a/02j + axle conversion and shifte install is a process in a mk1 but in the end it's totally worth it to have a much stouter and far superior shifting setup.

02a

Sorry for the delay here guys, I just got the rabbit back from my favorite exhaust shop who hooked up the down pipe and built pipes to connect the ford intercooler to the turbo, I'm pleased with it. I have yet to tackle the electric aspect, which will be full ecu. It's the last thing for me to get done and should be within the next two weeks.

I felt the 02A was the logical choice for me seeing as I had a complete donor car with it in there. This was not a cheap way to go. You will need to buy a cable clutch conversion, (WRD)(about $300) and transmission mounts, I bought them from wrd for about $300, if I had it to do again I would have ordered them from AL at http://www.vwcaddyforum.com/ which would have saved me 3 weeks of waiting and 150 bucks!!

You will also need to get some late model sirocco axles with 100mm flanges.

I am having clearance issues with the starter and the fan, you may or may not.

It would be far easier and cheaper to use the 020 tranny but I don't intend to baby anything.....


Energy, aside from the items above I think you would have to work something out for your speedo. I don't think the 02A is cable run.

clutch pull

The clutch feels just like the stock rabbit one did.

I have shimmed the fan forward as far as possible and it "just" clears the starter selinod, so a slimline fan may be in the future anyway. I used the waterpump neck from the old 1.6 and the stock hoses to connect it to the radiator. Time will tell........

We're gonna need a photo update soon, davidpa...

updates

Hi guys, I have attached some photos over at http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?p=279446#post279446
sometime I'll learn how to do it here.

Anyway,
My home made grease kit had to be relocated; the heat exchanger had to be moved to the rain tray (beside the ecm)and the second filter had to be moved to under the bed and just behind the cab, the solenoids are buried under the fuel filter.
I had an exhaust shop bend up some pipe for the intercooler and downpipe. I also had them put a bung in the intercooler pipe for a boost gauge. I’m pleased with the job.
I have put the passat fuse block in the rabbit, it fits in the factory mounts if you cut the bottom of the rabbits metal bracket off.
The wiring is coming along and isn’t quite as bad as the photos look, but it’s close.
A few more days at it and I hope to turn the key.

Oh lordy mate, that looks like a spaghetti mess of wires to me. You are a brave soul... Be prepared for rocket-like performance. It will be very hard to keep your foot out of it. You probably aren't into 'racing' and such, but your truck will bury most asian cars off the line easily. Keep on truckin! You're close!

When you mounted the 02A shifting mechanism, did you simply bolt it to the tunnel hump there, or make a bracket/spacer? Are the cables running inside the truck, or in the tunnel?

thx

Thanks for the encouragement energy. I had to do just a little cutting to the cab floor to get the shifter to set down as low as possible in the cab, it is bolted to the floor with a cover plate to protect the underside from the exhaust and weather. The shifter sets low enough in the cab that the shifting cables are right on top of the cab floor, they run under the carpet to the firewall. I have one of those walmart type cup holders mounted between the shifter and firewall so the slight hump in the carpet from the cables is hardly noticable.

I do intend to upgrade the injectors and ecm after I work out what ever bugs arise from the conversion.

Have a good day,
Dave

Beer me homer

Started it up tonight, sounds nice, less noise than the 1.6 NA. Shifts in and out of the gears well. I don't have the instrument cluster gauges working yet but my mechanical boost and oil pressure gauges look good. I think I have the horn, heater fan and the instrument cluster gauges yet to complete then on to the bussiness of smoking tires.....

Sweeeeet! What did you do about an air box/filter? Pictures, mate, Pictures!

-Zack

So , all lights, horn, fan , turn signals, etc work but I'm having some trouble getting the instrument panel and glow plugs to come to life so far.....

The panel is lifeless, the backlighting in it works as it should and the mileage/clock/trip meter work but nothing else does. Seems to me like I maybe overlooking a ground or something here but haven't come across it yet.

I'm going to post a few picks at http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?p=283731#post283731 of a box that remains a mystery to me if anyone would be so kind to tell me what it's for I would be most appreciative. It came out of the driver side floor area near the fuse block of the Passat that was my donor car. Haven't needed it yet but wonder if this maybe part of my trouble.

Energy, I used a cone filter clamped on to the maf meter and a stock tube from the maf to the plastic intake, the stock piece fit better than any thing else I could cob together. Nearly evry part of my WVO system needed moved to accomodate it.

Thanks, Dave

davidpa28140 said:

...I'm going to post a few picks at http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?p=283731#post283731 of a box that remains a mystery to me if anyone would be so kind to tell me what it's for I would be most appreciative.

Click to expand...

I just got through playing with that box yesterday.
That is the factory alarm box. It runs to a hidden horn in the fender and to the turn signal lamps, and monitors voltages off the fuse box. I was able to omit it without much trouble. My dash is lifeless too, thou I haven't plugged in the computer or an engine.

jrc, thanks a million . I will more than gladly leave that out then. Hopefully I'll figure this out this week, it's the last roadblock for me.

My panel made some "winding up" noises when I plugged it in but thats all.

Good luck,

Thanks Dave

the trouble I had with my dash - I got everything plugged in correctly and still had no life - there are a few grounds around the ECU & dash stuff if yo udon't get them grounded you wont have any life - you ground them and everything will be good

oh yea

[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']So after burning my fingers a few more times I discovered my problem wasn't a ground. After exhausting all options (short of gasoline and a match) I plugged in the 12 pin green fuse block connector that’s labeled in my bently for "optional accessories"( I think it was “D”). After plugging this in and some of the small blocks that go with it, my dash came to life. Now I can move on with the rest of the wiring, which I think I have figured out; just the cigarette lighter, heater fan, fuel sending unit, and radio to go, after this I have to modify the tabs I previously welded on the pedals then I should be good to go .[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] [/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']@@@@ getting burnt hurts!![/FONT]