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Old April 21st, 2009, 11:17   #1
volksman1950
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Default Correct Jack Stand Placement

Hi,

Just want to confirm. I jack up my 2000 Jetta TDI at the notched jacking points with a floor jack on the outer side body points and place the jack stands directly behind the jack opposite the notched points on the frame rails. Is this correct? Don't want the car to fall. It seems solid.

Thanks,

Larry (Volksman1950)
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Old April 21st, 2009, 11:25   #2
Variant TDI
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You'll get conflicting opinions, but I've never lifted my car by the pinch welds. And it's easy to tell... because my pinch welds are still intact, and not bent, crushed, or raped of their paint. You can still use the widowmaker in emergencies too.

This is how I lift.



If I'm lifting quick, I'll use the floor jack to lift the subframe bolt.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 11:33   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Variant TDI
You'll get conflicting opinions, but I've never lifted my car by the pinch welds. And it's easy to tell... because my pinch welds are still intact, and not bent, crushed, or raped of their paint. You can still use the widowmaker in emergencies too.

//deleted the image//

If I'm lifting quick, I'll use the floor jack to lift the subframe bolt.
X1

Subframe bolts in the front and in the rear I place the jack where the axle pivots, at the bushing.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 11:40   #4
ruking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volksman1950
Hi,

Just want to confirm. I jack up my 2000 Jetta TDI at the notched jacking points with a floor jack on the outer side body points and place the jack stands directly behind the jack opposite the notched points on the frame rails. Is this correct? Don't want the car to fall. It seems solid.

Thanks,

Larry (Volksman1950)
Actually there are a lot of unofficial ways. However the official ways are the 4 point pinch welds (marked with the indented "arrows") . To avoid bending them you can either buy or fabricate dado or u shaped adapters or notch a dado deep enough in a wood block/2 x 4 to cradle the pinch welds.

You can also use the plastic covered cut outs (you can get puck converters from the holes) to put the jack stands.

Last edited by ruking; April 21st, 2009 at 11:59.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 11:49   #5
Keith_J
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Be careful with dadoed wood as it likes to split. Especially a 2x4.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 11:55   #6
ruking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith_J
Be careful with dadoed wood as it likes to split. Especially a 2x4.
My fav's are the plastic formed adapters, but the ones I used that are the cheapest (free actually) and works just as well are: hard rubber cut outs. Indeed you can use cut out sections of old hard rubber or of old tires for all that matters. After 11 or so years of use, not a bent weld (or even scratched) in the lot.

Last edited by ruking; April 21st, 2009 at 11:58.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 16:18   #7
thebigarniedog
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by volksman1950
Hi,

Just want to confirm. I jack up my 2000 Jetta TDI at the notched jacking points with a floor jack on the outer side body points and place the jack stands directly behind the jack opposite the notched points on the frame rails. Is this correct? Don't want the car to fall. It seems solid.

Thanks,

Larry (Volksman1950)
Here you go:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2951609

Please, no wood or concrete blocks.
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Old April 21st, 2009, 17:17   #8
gforce1108
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I use two floor jacks at the same time - one on each of the large subframe bolts. They fit in the center of the jack cup.

I also use 2 jackstands in the location shown above (no wood), but leave the jacks in place too.
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 14:36   #9
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Grooved hockey puck is the best DYI solution for using floor jack on pinch weld.
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 14:58   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gforce1108
I also use 2 jackstands in the location shown above (no wood), but leave the jacks in place too.
Yeah. The wood isn't necessary if you're just jackstanding the car in that area... but it's very necessary if you lift from the center of the subframe. It's a lot weaker then the Mk3 subframe, which you can jack from directly.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 16:53   #11
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Default Jack Pads Set

I purchased this kit
http://http://www.tdiparts.com/catal...e.php?pID=1104
from TDIParts but do not know where to install them.
Can anyone give me some clues or pics
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Old June 15th, 2009, 17:09   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vflflyer
I purchased this kit
http://http://www.tdiparts.com/catal...e.php?pID=1104
from TDIParts but do not know where to install them.
Can anyone give me some clues or pics
Search...and ye shall find:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/tongsli/PDF/install.pdf
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Old March 28th, 2011, 20:22   #13
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I would jack from the rear of my DieselGeek skid plate, if it were always in place, but it's not...

Is there a definitive thread on best jacking-up locations, front and rear, as well as best placements of jack stands, front and rear? I thought I knew this, but now not so sure... I have a single 2-ton hydraulic floor jack, two 2-ton jack stands, and that thing in the trunk (which I use successfully on the seam welds when changing one tire at a time).
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Old March 29th, 2011, 20:04   #14
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Ah... this is what I was looking for:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/jackpoints.htm

:thumb
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Old March 29th, 2011, 20:59   #15
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Variant TDI View Post
You'll get conflicting opinions, but I've never lifted my car by the pinch welds. And it's easy to tell... because my pinch welds are still intact, and not bent, crushed, or raped of their paint. You can still use the widowmaker in emergencies too.

This is how I lift.



If I'm lifting quick, I'll use the floor jack to lift the subframe bolt.

works great until you need to drop the subframe
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