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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 3rd, 2009, 18:57   #1
SUNRG
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Default How To: B5.5 FM100 5-micron Fuel Filter Upgrade

Rational

The OEM fuel filter has been virtually unchanged since the IDI VW diesels and when VW started making TDIs injection pressures increased and contaminant caused injector wear increased.

Enter the PD and injection pressures went thru the roof to 30,000+psi but *initially* the fuel filter was still unchanged. VW eventually realized what a problem pairing 30,000psi with an antiquated fuel filter was and completely redesigned the filter with a far more advanced filter media - beginning with the 2006 A5s.

The Mann MultimediaF filters in the A5s are outstanding, cutting edge diesel fuel filtration.

Unfortunately, that leaves us A4 and B5.5 PD owners to fend for our beloved TDI fuel pumping and injection systems!

If you stay with OEM fuel filtration your PD will run great for a long while, then pretty good, then OK and then not so well in comparison to when it was new but it's a gradual deterioration of performance so you may not notice it until it gets really bad. When it does get bad the cost of replacing PD injectors is quite high.

Upgrading to a modern high-performance diesel fuel filter should enable injection performance to be like-new for longer and performance deteriorization will be slower. The cost of upgrading is quite low and replacement FM100 filters are less expensive than OEM filters ...

Filtration Efficiency Data

Following is data straight from Mann and Stanadyne regarding the filtration efficiencies of the A4 OEM and FM100 filters using the same ISO/TR 13353 testing procedure.

ISO/TR 13353: gives a test procedure for evaluating the initial efficiency by particule counting of an internal combustion engine fuel filter by submitting the filter to a constant flowrate of test liquid.

A4 OEM/MANN: The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353

Stanadyne FM100 5-micron: Average Particle Retention Efficiency (at 5-micron) Per ISO TR 13353, Sec. 6.2 - 97% @ 170 lph (45 gph)

Parts
FM100 Filter Head with 3/8” NPT Ports
FM100 6” 5um Fuel Filter Element
2 – 3/8 > 1/8 brass bushings
2 – 1/8 > 5/16 hose fittings
2 – 3/8 plugs
6’ – 7.5mm diesel fuel line
7 – stainless steel hose clamps

Tools
2 – line clamps
” drive
7/16 socket or combination wrench
11/16 socket or combination wrench
pliers
scissors
10mm socket
torx bit to remove fuel filter star bolt and replace with 5mm stainless steel allen bolt

Procedure

Pre - clean engine and "customize" FM100 head
  • the day before doing any fuel system work i clean my engine to reduce the risk of dirt being introduced into the fuel system.
  • cut the mounting bracket off the FM100 head as the filter will be held in the OEM filter bracket. i used a common 12" hacksaw with a 24tpi blade. i went slow, easy and carefully and it probably took me 25 minutes.





1 - Prep and Install fittings on FM100 Filter Head
  • carefully wrap all fitting threads in teflon tape being certain to only apply tape to the threads. Do not to allow any tape to obstruct the fuel flow path.




  • tighten all fittings down onto FM100 head. when looking at the front of the FM100, install plugs to the right side, hose fittings to the left side.
2 - Remove Old Filter
  • All fuel lines are completely removed *with the exception of the fuel line that delivers cleaned fuel from the fuel filter to the engine*. Use hose clamps to reduce fuel spillage. The return line that goes from the engine to through a fuel sensor to the thermostatic "T" is removed after the fuel sensor (ie - the fuel sensor remains in place).
  • Loosen , remove and loosely replace the star bolt with a 5mm stainless steel allen bolt.
  • Remove and discard the OEM fuel filter.


3 - Install Fuel Return Line
On my TDIs I remove the thermostatic "T" so this image shows the return line going from the engine to a fuel sensor and then directly back to the fuel tank (fuel actually travels through a fuel cooler after leaving the engine bay en route to returning to the fuel tank).



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Last edited by SUNRG; April 4th, 2009 at 19:29.
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 19:19   #2
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4 - Install FM100 with Mann Pre-Filter, Prime and Flush Fuel Filter
Place the assembled FM100 filter, head and fittings in the OEM fuel filter bracket and tighten 5mm allen bolt.

Connect all fuel lines *except the line that delivers clean fuel from the fuel filter to the engine*.

Attach Mity-Vac to the fuel-out port on the FM100 head. Pump the Mity-Vac to prime the system, then continue to pump a quart of fuel through the system to flush any assembly contaminants from the unit.




5 - Remove Mity-Vac, attach the Fuel Delivery line, start engine and check for leaks.



6 - Images:
Front View:


Pre-Filter Close-Up


Rear Close-Up:


Fuel Line Routing


Top View:


Overview 1:




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Last edited by SUNRG; April 3rd, 2009 at 19:22.
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 19:29   #3
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Images (continued):
Overview 2:


Outcome:

Overall, I am incredibly pleased with this install. I've installed FM100s on A4 VWs and Mercedes 123s, this was my first attempt at a B5.5 install and the result is perfect.

Line routing is very flowing and natural, moreso by far than the OEM setup IMHO.

Cheers! Rob
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Last edited by SUNRG; April 3rd, 2009 at 19:40.
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 19:40   #4
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Very nice job, I should do that upgrade too.
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 19:49   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aja8888
Very nice job, I should do that upgrade too.
since you've invested in the BS you're probably planning to keep your B5.5 a long while, so yeah, this is a huge upgrade in terms of fuel cleanliness, fuel water removal, increased contaminant capacity, increased filter face surface area, super easy filter changes (twist off ring) and the pre-filter is a great sight glass so you can easily see what the fuel looks like that's going into your beloved TDI. if you ever were to get a batch of horribly contaminated fuel you may be able to see that by looking at the pre-filter. cheers! rob
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 20:26   #6
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OEM:


Filter Media (technology circa 1977)
dirty

clean


New and Old:


FM100 Filter Media
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Last edited by SUNRG; April 3rd, 2009 at 20:44.
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 20:44   #7
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updated original post to include fuel filter upgrade rational.
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 21:25   #8
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Great write up, I vote it goes in mogolf's how-to thread.

Three questions:
1) I thought I read somewhere that there was a reaction between brass and biodiesel? or was that WVO?

2) In one of the other threads on this filter set-up you used a gauge mounted in one of the empty ports, would this be a good way to know when to change it? or do you just change it every 20K still?

3) Is there enough slack in the lines that you can lift the whole mess up out of the clamp to screw off the filter and change it without having to undo the fuel lines? I guess I'm asking what the changing procedure becomes?
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Old April 3rd, 2009, 23:59   #9
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i think the brass biod reaction claims are overblown. but, there are other fitting options. plastic is readily available and stainless steel can be aquired (so i hear).

i change the filter annually, each fall, and i think this is a good practice to insure optimal winter fuel flow and filtration. so i skipped the restriction guage in this install. this filter in the 6" version that i installed is designed for huge diesel engines, so annual changes are overdoing it but i still feel like it's a reasonable practice - especially since they're only like $17 a filter.

there's a super-simple lock ring that secures the filter head to the filter. to change the filter all you do is loosen the lock ring 1/4 turn, then the filter head lifts right off with all hoses attached. loosen the 5mm filter housing bolt, lift the old filter out, drop the new filter in, fill with injector cleaner, place the head on the new filter, turn the lock ring and done. incredibly easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KALaBenne
Great write up, I vote it goes in mogolf's how-to thread.

Three questions:
1) I thought I read somewhere that there was a reaction between brass and biodiesel? or was that WVO?

2) In one of the other threads on this filter set-up you used a gauge mounted in one of the empty ports, would this be a good way to know when to change it? or do you just change it every 20K still?

3) Is there enough slack in the lines that you can lift the whole mess up out of the clamp to screw off the filter and change it without having to undo the fuel lines? I guess I'm asking what the changing procedure becomes?
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Old April 4th, 2009, 01:32   #10
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Sweet install, but I would avoid the use of teflon tape on threaded fuel connections. Although you can get away with teflon tape if you're careful, you're better off using a fuel rated dope like Gasoila.
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Old April 4th, 2009, 09:40   #11
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Qusetion: where is Gasoila tape sold locally. I really don't want to mail order it if possible.

Also: are these the correct head and filter parts?


31877 FM100 standard flow F/WS element 6" 5m $17.52 ea.1 $17.52

33648 FM100 Head Assembly - 3/8x18 NPTF Ports $37.00 ea.1 $37.00

Subtotal:$54.52


UPS Gnd Residential [77381] Shipping:$14.08Grand Total:$68.60

Thanks,

Tony
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Last edited by aja8888; April 4th, 2009 at 10:32.
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Old April 4th, 2009, 19:01   #12
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i looked at the Gasoila website and their thread tapes are PTFE - i.e. teflon tape.

i've assembled whole biodiesel co-op fuel pumping and filtration assemblies with teflon tape and no problems.

cvalentine - am i missing something? what is your concern regarding teflon?

aja8888 - i've always used www.reliableindustries.com Toll Free: 800.693.4583

those parts do look correct.
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Old April 4th, 2009, 19:20   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUNRG
i looked at the Gasoila website and their thread tapes are PTFE - i.e. teflon tape.

i've assembled whole biodiesel co-op fuel pumping and filtration assemblies with teflon tape and no problems.

cvalentine - am i missing something? what is your concern regarding teflon?

aja8888 - i've always used www.reliableindustries.com Toll Free: 800.693.4583

those parts do look correct.
Thanks, their website does not allow online ordering, but they are "local" (Texas). I may give them a call Monday. Teflon tape it is.

Tony
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Old April 4th, 2009, 19:21   #14
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Here's data straight from the manufacturers, both using identical testing procedure ISO/TR 13353.

ISO/TR 13353: gives a test procedure for evaluating the initial efficiency by particule counting of an internal combustion engine fuel filter by submitting the filter to a constant flowrate of test liquid.

A4 OEM/MANN:

Quote:
The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353
Stanadyne FM100 5-micron:
Quote:
Average Particle Retention Efficiency (at 5-micron) Per ISO TR 13353, Sec. 6.2 - 97% @ 170 lph (45 gph)
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Old April 4th, 2009, 19:39   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aja8888
Thanks, their website does not allow online ordering, but they are "local" (Texas). I may give them a call Monday. Teflon tape it is.

Tony
yeah you gotta call these guys up, but they're super nice. i had a little more in the package they shipped to me and the freight charge was only $9.90. also Reliable's prices are a tiny bit lower than what you were quoted.

PS - if you don't have a mity vac you can pick up a mity vac knock-off at walmart for under $10. that's what i did. it's only needed IMHO for the initial install to flush the system by pulling a significant amount of fluid through it. thereafter you can just pop off the head unit, drop in a new filter, pour diesel purge or the like in it, put the head back on and drive.
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Last edited by SUNRG; April 4th, 2009 at 19:43.
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