www.tdiclub.com

Economy - Longevity - Performance
The #1 Source of TDI Information on the Web!
Forums Articles Links Meets
Orders TDI Club Cards TDIFest 2014 Gone, but not forgotten VAG-Com List Unit Conversions TDIClub Chat Thank You



Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old September 3rd, 2011, 07:58   #106
redbarron55
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Satsuma, Alabama
Default

I just looked at the Bentley manual and the "basic setting" of after the compressor has been changed ( I assume if the RCV has been changed as well ot ICE32 has freed up the vlave).
The process is as follows.
Again I assume what I say is properly interpreted.
Start the car with the A/C off (ECON mode?)
Let the idle stabilize.
turn the temp to max cold
turn on the A/C and give it five min. to go through it's setting process.

The actual words are below.
  • Note:
  • Note the following when starting engine for first time after filling refrigerant circuit:
  • Start engine with A/C compressor switched off ( "ECON" mode) and wait until the idling speed stabilizes.
  • Open an instrument cluster air vent.
  • Select temperature preset "Lo" on A/C Control Head E87 .Now switch A/C compressor on ( "Auto" mode) and allow engine to run for 5 minutes at idling speed.
The instruction are a little cryptic, but this is what I just did. Ocassionally my system will still take a holiday. particularly if it is very hot. I will see if this helps and report.
I still have not had a chance to change the RCV I bought.

Last edited by redbarron55; September 3rd, 2011 at 13:12.
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 3rd, 2011, 13:11   #107
redbarron55
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Satsuma, Alabama
Default

I have driven the car around 50-60 miles and it seems better or at least I did not feel the A/C lose cooling while driving, but it was below 93F.
It is possible that the adaptation keeps the current adjusted to keep from closing the valve too much and possibly sticking or closing too much for the conditions of temperature and head pressure of the compressor.
We shall see what we see!
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 4th, 2011, 13:29   #108
carlosabh
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: El Paso TX
TDI(s): Jetta
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zleem60 View Post
ok, I just got the new RCV and install it, evacuate the system and replaced with new freon. Low and Behold, The AC started to blow cold within 30 seconds. The time and money spent was well worth it to figure out that it was not the compressor that failed. But a $50 part that went bad cause the ac to delay coming on. So glad that it is finally fixed. Thanks for all those that have put in the time and effort in helping me diagnose the problem. @ DanG, redbarron55 thanks for all your help!
Hey thanks for posting this! At least now I know that replacing the RCV will fix my A/C !! The RCV is getting here on tuesday so maybe I'll be changing it next weekend, hopefully I will be posting positive results next week here!!
Thanks Zleem
carlosabh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 4th, 2011, 16:46   #109
john_tsouris@hotmail.com
Veteran Member
 
john_tsouris@hotmail.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Pittsburgh
TDI(s): 2006 jetta
Default

I didn't read all of these posts, but if you have the delayed AC issue your compressor is bad, and it will get worse.

This problem is VERY OFTEN directly caused by one or both of your radiator fans not working. Engine on, parked, AC on full, both fans should be on, period. CHECK THIS AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!

Also, don't replace your fans, they get road crud in the brushes and are easily cleaned in about 30 minutes. My cleaned brushes fans have worked for over 70,000 miles.

Now.... loss of fans will cause the immediate destruction of your compressor. I had an electrical problem which took both fans out when the car was in limp mode. Symptom is no cold air unless you are driving down the road..... as the fans cool the radiator when you are stopped with the engine on. I only drove like this for fifteen minutes, and stopped at maybe three or four red lights. I fixed the problem immediately but I now have the delayed AC problem on my NEW compressor.
john_tsouris@hotmail.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 4th, 2011, 17:54   #110
redbarron55
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Satsuma, Alabama
Default

I think that the combination of high head pressure and heat may cause this problem. My A/C was working perfectly until the flapper on the shroud came off and the fans would not adequately pull air through the condenser coil.
Perhaps the calibration on the valve is lost or the oil varnishes and makes the valve sticky.
Personally I think that if the compressor will develop the proper pressures and temps then is is OK.
I installed the ICE32 and have ordered the valve, but not yet installed it.
I read the reset procedure listed above and I wonder if the readpation of the computer to the comtressor, valve, pressures and temps will get things back to normal.
I would suggest trying the reset and let us know if it helps.
Also the pressure rating of the compressor is way above the likey pressure of running the compressor with the air flow off.
My guess is that the computer will dial back the RCV to limit the pressure/temp.
This is a likley cause of the problem.
It is possible that the addition of the ICE32 is not as related to the rejuvenation as the slight changes in pressure, although it probably would not hurt. It seemed to help in my case, but the system would still take the occasional holiday.
I will have a chance ot try after doing the reset listed in the Bently manual since I have a drive from Akron back to Mobile later this week.
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 4th, 2011, 21:08   #111
carlosabh
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: El Paso TX
TDI(s): Jetta
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john_tsouris@hotmail.com View Post
I didn't read all of these posts, but if you have the delayed AC issue your compressor is bad, and it will get worse.

This problem is VERY OFTEN directly caused by one or both of your radiator fans not working. Engine on, parked, AC on full, both fans should be on, period. CHECK THIS AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!

Also, don't replace your fans, they get road crud in the brushes and are easily cleaned in about 30 minutes. My cleaned brushes fans have worked for over 70,000 miles.

Now.... loss of fans will cause the immediate destruction of your compressor. I had an electrical problem which took both fans out when the car was in limp mode. Symptom is no cold air unless you are driving down the road..... as the fans cool the radiator when you are stopped with the engine on. I only drove like this for fifteen minutes, and stopped at maybe three or four red lights. I fixed the problem immediately but I now have the delayed AC problem on my NEW compressor.
The a/c system does have a high pressure sensor that shuts down power to compressor when refrigerant pressure is more then 280psi, the compressor is rated for a static pressure of 350psi, so I don't think that a radiator fans failure would damage the a/c compressor it would just be shut down, nothing more. my car's a/c pressures when it is working are 215 high, 35 low consistently so when it is working the pressures are just normal, a damaged compressor won't achieve normal pressures. People that has changed the RCV report immediate back to normal performance, there are posts elsewhere that say that in places that rebuild these compressors they don't have any more damage then a failing RCV and that is what those get new, a good cleaning and the compressors perform again like new.
So hopefully the problem with this a/c systems just are these failing RCV's, I just don't want to have to buy new compressor, condenser, expansion valve etc etc to fix my car, so fingers crossed.........
carlosabh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 4th, 2011, 21:58   #112
farnhamassoc
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Riverside CA
Fuel Economy: 32 city avg 44 hwy avg.....
Default

Note to all: All 2006 TDI Jetta people with A/C problems. Most of them stem to 2 things but usually one is the problem. The original mechanic was right. It is the compressor more than 90% of the time. Check to see if both fans turn on. If they do then save yourself some greef and hours trying to figure it out , get off your fat wallet and thin it out by putting on a new compressor. People always try to find other things that can be the problem and it is so hard to diagnosis so trial and error work well in this case. Be sure to put in the correct amount of freon. Here are the simple steps to diagnosis of your compressor issue. Check the static pressure of your system. It should be around 70-80 lbs. Check to see if both fans after a short delay turn on. If they do it is probably the compressor. They are a faulty design with the variable pressure system and fail often.(sorry you German engineers but your idea or A/C sucks learn from the Americans) Yes I put on the cheapest made in china one I could and it works great cost around $400. The Sanden Failed for those of you German parts only people. Just remember what I am telling you about the correct amount of freon. If you over or under charge the system by an ounce or 2 the system will not cool correctly. The A/C on these is crappy at best so make sure it is right.
farnhamassoc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 5th, 2011, 21:46   #113
zleem60
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
Default

For those of us that would like to fix the problem without shelling out $400 AC from China or $465 new Sanden compressor. I will give my account to everything I've done to fix my problem. Since my AC would work after a 10 minute delay. You can ask any mechanic out there, if the AC is not working, it would not blow cold air at all. So I just went through the process and got new parts for my Jetta. Since it is a 2006 with 160K miles on it. Things are going to go bad. Which is why I didn't think much about replacing the fans and such.

1. Check to see if freon pressure is correct.
2. Check to see if both fans are blowing if not, fix the fan problem. If fan is toast, buy new ones. See how to fix the fan from DanG's post. http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/Fan_Repair.pdf
3. Replace High pressure switch.
4. Try to reset to basic initiation by Pressing Econ button along with the rear defrost for 5+ seconds together .
4. Replace Refrigerant Control Valve (if Sanden Compressor)
If that still didn't fix my problem, then I would shell out $465 for new compressor.
5. Replace the AC. (with new AC, you will replace the drier and expansion valve)

But fortunately, by changing out a sticky RCV, you guess it made it China. The AC comes on in less than 5 seconds and in Arizona 106 degrees today.

The people selling the compressor are not willing to sell the RCV because they figure they get the core back, replace a $25 RCV part, test it, and resell for remanufacture for $400. That's a pretty good game they got going.

So for those of you that thinks you might need a new compressor, try replacing the RCV first and see if it fixes it. If it didn't, only cost you $25 and a new compressor is needed. But if it did fix the problem. Wow, you just save yourself $375!

Good luck. I did use ICE32 and my AC is colder than ever. Even in Arizona summer, I set my AC to 70 degrees. After 10 minutes in my car, the fan drop from high, to low medium. It's never been that cold since I bought the car in 2008.
zleem60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 6th, 2011, 04:54   #114
redbarron55
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Satsuma, Alabama
Default

I have a question about the reset posted here. What is the rear defrost in the stock Climatic Sportwagen?
My car has defrost, but not specified as rear.
It also does not hace and ECON button only A/C which in looking at the parts breakdown in the Bently manual must be the same thing.
I have posted the procedure listed in the Bentley manual, but it has nothing I have found about the rear defrost.
I assume that this applies to cars I am not familiar with.
Just wondering.

Thanks,

JDB
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 6th, 2011, 09:22   #115
zleem60
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
Default

If you don't have fan problem, then the two items to check or replace are: RCV valve on your compressor or the high pressure valve in the refrigerant line. I replaced them both. Pick one and try it. My compressor was a new one from Sanden and the RCV sticks after one year. Best to pay $25 vs. $400. Good luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by john_tsouris@hotmail.com View Post
I didn't read all of these posts, but if you have the delayed AC issue your compressor is bad, and it will get worse.

This problem is VERY OFTEN directly caused by one or both of your radiator fans not working. Engine on, parked, AC on full, both fans should be on, period. CHECK THIS AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!

Also, don't replace your fans, they get road crud in the brushes and are easily cleaned in about 30 minutes. My cleaned brushes fans have worked for over 70,000 miles.

Now.... loss of fans will cause the immediate destruction of your compressor. I had an electrical problem which took both fans out when the car was in limp mode. Symptom is no cold air unless you are driving down the road..... as the fans cool the radiator when you are stopped with the engine on. I only drove like this for fifteen minutes, and stopped at maybe three or four red lights. I fixed the problem immediately but I now have the delayed AC problem on my NEW compressor.
zleem60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 6th, 2011, 09:34   #116
zleem60
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
Default

JDB,

I don't think the reset pertains to non climatronic AC units. Sorry for the confusion. Just in case, here's a pic of my ac controls:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1131746...84781386637362

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
I have a question about the reset posted here. What is the rear defrost in the stock Climatic Sportwagen?
My car has defrost, but not specified as rear.
It also does not hace and ECON button only A/C which in looking at the parts breakdown in the Bently manual must be the same thing.
I have posted the procedure listed in the Bentley manual, but it has nothing I have found about the rear defrost.
I assume that this applies to cars I am not familiar with.
Just wondering.

Thanks,

JDB
zleem60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 6th, 2011, 17:17   #117
redbarron55
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Satsuma, Alabama
Default

The quote I posted is from the Bentley DVD on the Climatic system.
That says nothing about the demist or defrost.
It says start the engine (with the A/C off) and let the idle stabilize.
Then turn on the A/C and turn the temp to low.
Wait 5 min.
I think that this resets the control system to put the stroke at the prper point for modulation. (Maybe)
I carried out this procedure yesterday and it worked better.
Today the Temp was30F lower (65-70 vs 90-100) and one thing I noticed was the mileage was much better. from ~42 to 48 (HWY).
Perhaps the system has to calibrate the pressure on the compressor to be properly OFF?
As above I fail to see how the compressor can be bad if it generated the proper pressures (eventually).
If you consider that the compressor includes the valve the it is bad, but mostly I think it is mostly the valve that causes the problem.
Also I think that there is a calibration problem with the system which will aggravate the situation. But when the CPU is calling for high output 0.82 Amps that compressor should immeadiately give full stroke and max output.
If the valve is sticking it will take several min to pony up the goods.

JDB
redbarron55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 7th, 2011, 14:17   #118
ILowNslowI
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Texas
Default

well, $982 later I HAVE FREEZING COLD A/C...

took the car in friday because the a/c was not cooling at all...used to take a solid 5-10min of driving for the a/c to cool(typical 06 TDi) then it finally quit on me. Took it to local v-dub dealer & they replaced the compressor. Expensive but its almost blows snowballs its that cold now.
ILowNslowI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 7th, 2011, 15:55   #119
zleem60
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
Default

Replacing the compressor is always a good thing. but $982 a bit stiff. At Discountacparts.com, the compressor is only $565 with drier and expansion valve.
zleem60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 8th, 2011, 04:11   #120
DanG144
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA
Default

$982 is the best price I have heard from a dealer. It is usually $1200 or more from an AC place or a dealer. This is assuming they replaced the drier and expansion valve - they normally do.
DanG144 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 00:55.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright - TDIClub Online LTD - 2014
Contact Us | Privacy Statement | Forum Rules | Disclaimer
TDIClub Online Ltd (TDIClub.com) is not affiliated with the VWoA or VWAG and is supported by contributions from viewers like you.
1996 - 2013, All Rights Reserved
Page generated in 0.14935 seconds with 9 queries
[Output: 128.58 Kb. compressed to 108.46 Kb. by saving 20.12 Kb. (15.65%)]