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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 14th, 2008, 07:31   #1
Herm TDI
 
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Default Clutch Master Cylinder

Car info: 2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5Sp
Issue: R&R Clutch master cylinder

Question: Does the ABS controler have to be removed to access the hoses on the Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC).
I need to replace the CMC and this is looking like its about to turn into a real headache unless someone can share some info.

TIA
Herm
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Old November 14th, 2008, 08:39   #2
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I have made some progress with this event. The Bentley manual leaves a lot to be desired on this procedure. I'll share my tips and a few photos. Maybe this will develope into a "How To" to be added to the list.

Tip #1:
There is a black relay box mounted onto the fire wall above the CMC. This box is designed to slip upwards and off of its mount. Removing this box will give you a bit more access to the CMC (every little bit more room helps).

Tip #2:
The Bentley manual meantions you need some special tools to disengage the CMC rod from the pedle. I just used two 4" straight-slot screw-drivers to come in from either side of the clip and depressed the lock-tabs. The rod seperated from the lock position.

Tip #3:
The major hurtle to over come is sperating the the pressure line from the CMC to the slave cylinder. On the CMC there is a spring lock which secures the pressure line to the outlet port on the CMC. Releasing this spring lock is a real PITA if you don't know the "trick".

On the CMC there is a verticle slot intened to access and release this lock device. Using a long slender pick or a small screw driver insert the tool into the slot and then slide the spring-lock sideways (towards the driver's side). You just need to slide this spring-lock about 4 MM and it will come to a resting position (do not remove this lock-spring) photos coming.
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Old November 14th, 2008, 09:01   #3
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Default CMC photos

Here is a photo of the CMC lock-spring. Sorry for the blured image. You can just makeout the slot to release the lock-spring:


Here is a photo of a small screw-driver inserted into the verticle slot to release the lock spring:

Lastly a photo of the lock-spring in the resting position (released). This is a far as you need to move the lock-spring. Once in the rest position the pressure line can be seperated from the CMC.

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Last edited by Herm TDI; November 14th, 2008 at 09:03.
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Old November 14th, 2008, 10:48   #4
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The job is done except for the bleeding / flush.
The most difficault part was releasing and installing the pressure line for the slave cylinder. The connection point on the CMC is in a tight location.
Once you understand how the lock-spring works you are half way through the battel. Release the lock-spring then you have to reach under the ABS control module (find the line for the slave cylinder) and seperate the line from the CMC by flexing, tugging (gently)in a downward direction.
The same for re-connecting this line. Have the spring lock released and reach under the ABS control module and work the line back into its connection while at the same time with your other hand press the spring lock home to secure the pressure line.
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Last edited by Herm TDI; November 14th, 2008 at 13:12.
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Old November 14th, 2008, 11:11   #5
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Default more photos

Here are a few more photos I thought worth posting.
This is fuzzy butyou get the general idea of what and where the CMC release tabs are located. The small white rectangle is the plactic tabs to be depressed to release the CMC rod


Here is another photo of the CMC rod disengaged from the pedle


Another photo of the CMC removed from its mount:


This next photo of the installed CMC with the spring-lock released. You need to have this lock in this position to seat the pressure line into its connector.


There is another "trick" to this making this connection. With one hand reached under the ABS control module find/ locate the line and press, the line squarely into its seat. Then with your other hand reach down and press the spring-lock home to secure the connection.

Here is a photo of the slave pressure line connected to the CMC.


This is about all of the major elements to the CMC replacement.
I'm glad that I have the car on a hoist as I was able to do the work under the dash standing at the driver's door.
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Old November 14th, 2008, 12:40   #6
deadend9009
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i hate the bentley for this reason. It doesn't always tell the whole story.

On the other hand, i think this deserves to be stickied as it could be useful for others.

Thanks herm!
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Old November 14th, 2008, 13:05   #7
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What symptoms was the car showing that pointed towards a failed CMC?
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Old November 14th, 2008, 13:20   #8
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Default Gear shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by greengeeker
What symptoms was the car showing that pointed towards a failed CMC?
The very first day the owner came to me with the complaint of difficault shifting. Not always the same gear and some problems upshifting through the gears during acceleration.

With the current mileage I started with a gear lube replacment (VWoA gear lube) and a linkage adjustment. This seemed to help but did not resolve the probelm. A few days later additional gear shift ddifficaulties.
I recommended replacing the clutch slave cylinder. I did that and as soon as I compleated the bleed I felt a strange / different feel to the clutch pedle. The feel was like a softness mid-way to depressing the clutch.
Then the next day a total failure where he could not shift gears with the engine running. At that time I said to replace the CMC. Which did not solve the problem ( Can not shift into any grear with the engine running).
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Old November 14th, 2008, 14:00   #9
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I'm guessing the softness went away after you replaced the CMC? Before you changed it out, was the softness at hte top or bottom of the travel? Did the slave have fluid in the protective boot?

What was the brake fluid flush history on the car?

Still isn't fixed?
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Old November 14th, 2008, 16:25   #10
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Default answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by greengeeker
I'm guessing the softness went away after you replaced the CMC? Before you changed it out, was the softness at hte top or bottom of the travel? Did the slave have fluid in the protective boot?

What was the brake fluid flush history on the car?

Still isn't fixed?
CMC replaced no further softness
The intial softness was at the bottom
No fluid evident in the slave boot
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 16:43   #11
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Thanks Herm, Joined TDI club just to see your pictures after finding your thread with a Google search. Planning to replace the slave and master on my daughter's jetta this coming weekend. Your pictures are just what I needed. Thanks much!
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Old December 2nd, 2008, 20:32   #12
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Hmm I usually pull the whole clutch pedal assembly as one.
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Old January 22nd, 2009, 09:20   #13
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How did this turn out Herm? Did it end up being the DMF or clutch coming apart?
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Old January 23rd, 2009, 17:20   #14
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Default Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by greengeeker
How did this turn out Herm? Did it end up being the DMF or clutch coming apart?
The clutch plate fell apart. We also replaced the flywheel and went with a single mass...vr6 set-up
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Old March 4th, 2009, 09:50   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herm TDI
The clutch plate fell apart. We also replaced the flywheel and went with a single mass...vr6 set-up
Is the car fine now?
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