rocketeer928 - My 2003 VW Jetta TDI

[rocketeer928]

Hi Fellow TDI Friends,

I thought I would finally post my '03 Jetta TDI on this site, which I purchased in Dec 2007. The details are below in my signature. So far, this is the favorite car I've ever owned and the only one I have installed serious modifications. My wife and I lived in Ockenheim, Deutschland (grapevine & wine country) from Dec 2006 through Nov 2007 for my job, and this is where my love for the VW diesel engines was cultivated. My company gave us a 2005 VW Passat Wagon (Kombi) TDI for the year, and for a wagon it was a lot of fun to drive and got 6.4 liters/100 km (35 mpg). Hope you enjoy the pictures.

[rocketeer928]

Modifications at the time include:

• Unitronic Stage 2 PLUS/EGR Delete chip software
• Valeo G60/VR6 Clutch
• PP520 nozzles
• Dieselgeek by-pass filter, DG short shifter, DG Panzer skid plate, DG race pipe and DG EGR delete
• TDI FrostHeater
• SW boost gauge
• Enkei 17-inch silver wheels with Yokohama 235/45R17 tires
• Drilled and slotted rotors
• Rear fog lamp
• New projector headlights with fogs
• G2 blue & black painted calipers
• Koni FSD struts/shocks
• Ventectomy.

The stock engine is rated at 90 hp / 155 ft-lbs torque. At 118 hp / 215 ft-lbs torque, this translates to an increase of 31% hp / 39% ft-lbs torque.

[rocketeer928]

Over the course of the week of May 22 – 30, 2009, I installed the following modifications on my 2003 VW Jetta TDI:

Garrett VNT 17/22 Hybrid Turbo
MAF to Turbo Intake 2.5-inch OMI
Upgraded 2.5-inch Upper and Lower Intercooler Pipes
3-Bar MAP Sensor
0.658 Fifth Gear
034Motorsport Density Line Dogbone Mount
2.5-inch Downpipe with Catalytic Converter
2.5-inch CAT-Back Exhaust without Muffler
Braided steel turbo oil supply line
CAT Fuel Filter (installed early May; no installation description or pictures)

The following modifications were installed on my Jetta TDI last year:

Unitronic Stage 2 PLUS/EGR Delete chip software
Dieselgeek by-pass filter, short shifter, race pipe, and EGR delete
Bosio PP520 Injector Nozzles
Valeo G60/VR6 Clutch and Flywheel (This by far was the hardest job for me to do.)
TDI FrostHeater

Except for the 0.658 5th gear (see reason below), I installed all of these modifications myself. At this time, I’m still using the OEM 10-mm injection pump and OEM intercooler. Perhaps next year I will consider upgrades to these two components, such as the 11-mm injection pump and a TTT or Eurojet side-mounted intercooler. I spent enough extra money on modifications for this year. On June 20, 2009, I have plans to have the RocketChip RC4 software installed on the Jetta TDI, which I replaces the Unitronic Stage 2 PLUS software.

The following posts explain the installation of my latest modifications. I used many different “how-to” documents found on TDI Club and the internet. Unfortunately, some of my pictures are a little blurry because the digital camera I have is rather old and doesn’t do well with close-up shots or it focuses on something else besides what I was going for. Perhaps a fellow TDI enthusiast will find this document helpful.

[rocketeer928]

Pictures of the engine bay before work began:



Removed engine cover



Loosened lug bolts on the front driver’s side wheel. Removed negative battery connection with a 10‑mm socket. Engaged parking brake and placed into 1st gear.
Securely placed the car on four jack stands.




Removed the bumper to Panzer skid plate skirting with T20 screwdriver. Removed Panzer skid plate with 17-mm socket.





I placed sound proofing material on the underside of the Panzer skid plate to help reduce cabin noise and the retention of heat in the winter.
Removed drive axle boot protective shield that is attached to the engine with a 16-mm socket.



Sprayed PB Blaster on the exhaust bolts and nuts for later removal.

[rocketeer928]

Using a Phillips screwdriver, removed the driver’s side headlight cover.





Removed the grille: First used a flathead screwdriver to unsnap the top of the grill near the hood latch.




Lifted the lower grille next to both headlights.





After the grille is loosened, pulled it out a little to be able to access the bumper bolts.

Removed the lower vents by pushing down on the upper portion and pulling at the same time.





Removed the bolts on both sides underneath the vents with a T25 screwdriver.



Removed left front wheel. Removed driver’s side fender housing and mud flap using T20 screwdriver on 12 screws.








Rotated steering wheel all the way to the left and removed the four T20 screws from the passenger’s side fender housing that attach to the bumper.


Removed the five screws from the top of the bumper behind the grille using a T25 screwdriver.

Whoops! Middle finger was not intentional; didn’t notice until I started creating this document.

[rocketeer928]

Removed side marker lights, which will get replaced with clear side markers and amber lights, and unattached bulbs from housing. Disconnected TDI FrostHeater cord from the front of the bumper.





Here is the bumper removed from my Jetta TDI. It seriously needs a re-paint. In fact the whole car could use a re-paint. I’m convinced that the lady who owned this car before me tailgated a sand truck every day to work.

Windshield is all pitted too. It would be nice if a crack developed in the windshield to give me a justifiable reason to replace.

[rocketeer928]

Removed both headlights with T20 screwdriver on four bolts each. I have washers underneath the bottom bolts to slightly raise the headlights projection at night.





Disconnected the headlight harnesses. When I first installed these headlights last year, I managed to badly mangle the passenger side headlight harness connector. This is when I was first learning how to disconnect such wiring. So, this was a good opportunity to replace the damaged harness connector.



Removed the purple clip from inside both the damaged and new harness connector.



Using an extraction tool I bought from a fellow TDI Club member, removed one wire at a time and placed into the same position within the new harness connector. Wire numbers 2, 4, 6, 8, & 10 from the top and wire numbers 7 & 9 from the bottom. I have extra wiring for the fog lamp relays.





Re-inserted the purple clip with the grooved channel side out until it clicked in place. Temporarily connected negative battery terminal and tested the headlight and turn signal, which worked!

[rocketeer928]

Here’s a picture of the new pendulum mount (dogbone) with new stretcher bolts. The new mount is supposed to dramatically improve engine location with minimal increase in vibration transmission, help reduce engine twisting in modified cars, and improve clutch operation and traction. The mount contains high density 50 durometer rubber, about 25% stiffer than stock the mount. We’ll see.



Supported the transmission with the hydraulic jack to make it easier to remove old and install new dogbone.



Removed four bolts holding the dogbone to the transmission and sub-frame; two with a 13-mm socket and two with a 16-mm socket. Installed the new dogbone. Tightened the two new stretch bolts that go into the sub-frame to 20 Nm (15 ft‑lb) plus an additional ¼ turn, and tightened the two new stretch bolts that go into the transmission to 40 Nm (30 ft‑lb) plus an additional ¼ turn.



I will keep my OEM dogbone for a while in case I don’t like the vibration caused by the new dogbone.

[rocketeer928]

Removed the connector for the MAF sensor on the air cleaner box. Careful with that clip!



Removed accordion air intake pipe using a hose clamp removal tool. I removed the two hose clamps because I plan to replace them with stainless steel T-bolt hose clamps.



Using the hose clamp tool, removed the rubber elbow between the upper intercooler pipe and the Dieselgeek race pipe. Again, I removed the two hose clamps because I plan to replace them with stainless steel T-bolt hose clamps.



Unplugged the CCV housing connector and carefully removed the CCV.



Removed the two bolts that attach the turbo intake pipe onto the intake manifold with a 10-mm socket.





Using the hose clamp tool underneath, removed the lower intake pipe connection closest to the OEM Garrett VNT-15 turbo.



Removed the turbo actuator vacuum line from the turbo intake pipe; all the way up. See the above picture for one of the connections underneath the engine.

Removed the turbo intake pipe, which will be replaced with the MAF to Turbo Intake 2.5-inch OMI. Carefully twisted out the CCV connector unit. I will keep the OEM turbo intake pipe, just in case…

[rocketeer928]

Disconnected the Stewart Warner TDI boost gauge tubing from the Dieselgeek race pipe.




Removed the three bolts and washers attaching the Dieselgeek race pipe to the intake manifold with a 5-mm Allen socket.

[rocketeer928]

Removed the 2-bolt vacuum lines bracket from the intake manifold with a with a 5-mm Allen socket.



Loosened the six intake manifold bolts with a 6-mm Allen wrench and a ¼-inch metal tube about 12-inches long. I discovered this technique when I cleaned my intake manifold, removed the EGR and EGR cooler, and installed the Dieselgeek race pipe after I first purchased my Jetta TDI. Lots of soot… I don’t yet have long metric Allen sockets. As each bolt was loosened, I removed them. From the passenger’s side, bolts number 2 & 6 did not come out until the intake manifold was removed.



Removed the intake manifold and its gasket, which will be replaced upon re-installation.





I inspected the intake holes to the cylinder head with a mirror. There was a little soot, but nothing to fret and lose sleep over.

[rocketeer928]

Re-sprayed more PB Blaster on the exhaust system and turbo-to-downpipe nuts for future removal.

While pulling up with one hand, loosened the oil supply line on top of the turbo with a 17-mm wrench.



Removed the banjo bolt with two copper washers that connects the oil supply line to the front of the engine with a 17‑mm socket, short extension, and ¼-inch ratchet.



Removed the two clamps that secures the oil supply line and the bracket on the exhaust manifold with a 10-mm socket. Pried the clamps off.

This is probably the blurriest picture!

Removed the oil supply line from the engine bay, which will be replaced with a braided steel turbo oil supply line.

[rocketeer928]

Underneath, removed the three copper bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo exhaust manifold with a 13-mm socket.




Loosened the exhaust clamp between the downpipe catalytic converter and the rear exhaust system. I had to use a 11/16-inch long impact socket because I did not have an equivalent 18-mm socket. Slid the exhaust clamp toward the front.



Removed the downpipe front support with a 13-mm socket.



Slid out the downpipe and removed the front support.

Removed two muffler mount hangers with a 13-mm socket; one in front and one in back. Removed the middle support bracket with a 13-mm wrench. I had to Sawzall the rear exhaust system to completely remove it.

Removed exhaust system.



Here is the new stainless steel 2½-inch downpipe and exhaust system with catalytic converter, new gasket, and new 13-mm copper nuts. There is to be no muffler, since it’s not really needed on the TDI.

[rocketeer928]

Underneath, removed the bolts on the lower turbo oil return with a 5-mm Allen socket. A new gasket will be needed when this connection is reinstalled.



Underneath, removed the turbo oil line return from the engine with a 22-mm wrench.



Removed the driver side and passenger side engine side shields using a screwdriver to spin the speed nuts.



Removed the lower pancake intake pipe by first unclamping the hoses from the turbo and intercooler with the hose clamp removal tool and then with a 10-mm socket.



Underneath, removed the bolt holding the turbo to the engine bracket with a 13-mm socket.



Removed the two nuts holding the exhaust shield to the exhaust manifold with a 12-mm socket.



Removed the eight nuts and expansion washers that hold the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head with a 12-mm socket. Some of the nuts are hidden and had to be felt in order to get the socket on for removal. Upon removing the two lower passenger side nuts, a bracket holding the bottom of the exhaust shield came off.



Unattached the vacuum line from the turbo actuator.



Lifted the OEM Garrett VNT-15 turbo and its exhaust manifold out from the top of the engine. Removed the gaskets from the cylinder head, which will be replaced.

[rocketeer928]

I sold this OEM Garrett VNT-15 turbo. It was in good working order and had only 80,000 miles on it.





Since the new turbo came with a new bracket, from underneath removed the turbo-to-engine bracket with a 16-mm socket.



Installed the new bracket loosely onto the engine.



Here is the new Garrett VNT 17/22 Hybrid Turbo.



Notice that one of the bolt studs where the Emissions Gas Recirculation (EGR) delete plate with the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) probe is inserted was slightly bent. I had to pound this bolt stud as straight as possible with a piece of wood and a heavy hammer. I did not drop or cause this bolt stud to be bent. It was shipped like this.