Life expectancy

h3ndrix · August 6th, 2008, 08:19

Hi, this is my first real post. I have been looking for a TDI for about 6 months at a very specific price range and mileage. I was seeing cars go over and stay at my budget at 150k+. Actually, I've seen a WIDE range of prices for all sorts of miles. My bank would grant a loan for a diesel vehicle up to 150k when they cut off gasoline cars at 100k. After 6 months of searching I found a Beetle (I would have preferred a Jetta but I'm loving the Beetle) at 88k for just RIGHT above my budget, so I bought it.

My biggest question is what is the life expectancy of these engines in terms of miles? I know some sales pitches claim 400k, but these are no 80's mercedes. I haven't really seen anyone talk about their ultra high mileage TDI's because most of you bigtime enthusiast own like more than one TDI. I hope I get to that point one day...

So long story short: What kind of high mileage can I expect out of my 2001 Beetle TDI?

Lex4TDI4Life · August 6th, 2008, 08:23

88K is just breaking in for a TDI. A well-maintained engine should last over 300K.

n1das · August 6th, 2008, 09:32

I'm "only" at 289k miles in my 02 Golf TDI and it's still way to early to tell how long the engine will last.

Naimanator · August 6th, 2008, 09:32

ditto.

h3ndrix · August 6th, 2008, 09:40

Is maintaining the engine any more difficult than just doing all of the scheduled maintence and fixing problems as they occur? This also my first 'real' car.

Lex4TDI4Life · August 6th, 2008, 09:46

If you stay on top of things, use the right fluids and parts, maintenance is pretty easy.

My TDI is the first car I have owned on which I have done my own work. The only thing that is major maintenance that I will not personally touch is the timing belt. I take it to a guru for that. TDIs of that vintage are great to learn on.

Brian_Spilsbury · August 6th, 2008, 10:47

My Brother's A3 TDI is sitting at 438,000km now. A bit more of a puff of blue smoke on startup now than mine which is at 120k.
He doesn't believe in maintanence either. He did his TB at just shy of 220k

K5ING · August 6th, 2008, 10:52

Do a search on here for high mileage TDIs and you'll find hundreds of posts (many of which are mine). There are lots of 300,000 + mile cars out there.

Of course, it all depends on how it's driven, what conditions it's driven in, and your willingness to to hit problems early. It's not a Honda or Toyota....thank goodness!

NorthernMage · August 6th, 2008, 11:21

What year is your Beetle, what tranny does it have? The critical things are oil changes and timing belt changes. You only have to change the oil every 10K miles but have to use the right oil 5W40 Full Synthetic 505.00 VAG or better, it can be an API CJ-4 rated oil if its not the PD engine so that opens up lots of options. The maintenance load isn't bad, just change the filters (easy), get a vacuum extractor for oil changes (easy) and you have got most of it beat, find a Guru for the odd things like intake cleaning and timing belts or learn to do it yourself.....

Your engine will last a long time, since you are in a low-salt zone for winter driving your body should last too. Put good fluids in it, change fluids as required (only G12 in the cooling system and DOT 4 in the brake lines) and you car will serve you well.

gdjohny · August 6th, 2008, 11:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by K5ING

Do a search on here for high mileage TDIs and you'll find hundreds of posts (many of which are mine). There are lots of 300,000 + mile cars out there.

Of course, it all depends on how it's driven, what conditions it's driven in, and your willingness to to hit problems early. It's not a Honda or Toyota....thank goodness!

Whats wrong with honadas or toyotas?
I have Audi a6 2.5 tdi and my good friend have a honda accord 2005 2.2 turbo diesel and i must say that engine is more than great.Its very(VERY) quiet and when i was driving it by mmyself i couldnt belive its diesel.It gives a 55+ mpg in city and pulls like train.I am thinking about getting one next year.

K5ING · August 6th, 2008, 11:33

You forget, gdjohny, that we don't get the Honda or Toyota diesels over here in the States. Only the gas versions. We can only dream for now.

MeOmYo · August 6th, 2008, 11:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdjohny

Whats wrong with honadas or toyotas?
I have Audi a6 2.5 tdi and my good friend have a honda accord 2005 2.2 turbo diesel and i must say that engine is more than great.Its very(VERY) quiet and when i was driving it by mmyself i couldnt belive its diesel.It gives a 55+ mpg in city and pulls like train.I am thinking about getting one next year.

Yeah, we don't have them on this side of the pond. But we do have Ford Excursions and Suburbans to take the family around in!!! Don't you want one of those?

h3ndrix · August 6th, 2008, 12:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorthernMage

What year is your Beetle, what tranny does it have? The critical things are oil changes and timing belt changes. You only have to change the oil every 10K miles but have to use the right oil 5W40 Full Synthetic 505.00 VAG or better, it can be an API CJ-4 rated oil if its not the PD engine so that opens up lots of options. The maintenance load isn't bad, just change the filters (easy), get a vacuum extractor for oil changes (easy) and you have got most of it beat, find a Guru for the odd things like intake cleaning and timing belts or learn to do it yourself.....

Your engine will last a long time, since you are in a low-salt zone for winter driving your body should last too. Put good fluids in it, change fluids as required (only G12 in the cooling system and DOT 4 in the brake lines) and you car will serve you well.

it's 2001 and it's 5spd manual. Which is another thing... I've been learning to drive stick. My first fill up calculated 29mpg, which is twice as much as the POS car is replaced but I can't wait for my 45ish tank

I saw one thing talking about sucking out the oil, what is to be gained from doing that? I've literally changed oil one time on another car and extracting the existing oil wasn't in the steps. Am I missing something?

NorthernMage · August 6th, 2008, 14:26

"Sucking out the oil" is accomplished with a vacuum extractor AKA a Pela 6000, Mity Vac etc, usually available from a Marine Supply store like West Marine. They were designed to get oil out of inboard marine engines that you can't get underneath to drain. This lets you stick the tube down the dipstick hole, pump up the vacuum on the Pela and watch the oil being sucked up into the container. This takes 10 minutes or so, at the same time you undo the cap from the oil filter, which is also on top of the engine, take out the oil filter element and when you have sucked all the oil out of the sump you stick the tube down in the oil filter hole and suck out the oil down there. Then you put in the new filter element, put the cap back on and fill up the car with oil. You don't have to get under the car or open any drain plugs, there is no drip tray or mess on the garage floor and all the old oil is already in the container ready to be poured back into the jug the new oil came out of so you can recycle it...... very clean and painless.

You can still do it the old fashioned way, put it up on jacks and remove the belly pan (the engine is fully enclosed underneath to protect it from dirt and debris), then remove the drain plug, replace the crush washer and retorque it back into the very soft aluminium sump, being careful not to overtighten and strip the plug.... in the meantime you need a drip tray to catch the oil and you need to slide in and out from under the car - ands its tight under there..... Depends how much you drive, I change my oil twice a year since I put on more than 10K miles per year. You could pay the dealership whatever they charge $80.00+ but that would buy you a Pela, I would rather do my own changes, you know what you put in and you know its done right.....

h3ndrix · August 6th, 2008, 14:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorthernMage

"Sucking out the oil" is accomplished with a vacuum extractor AKA a Pela 6000, Mity Vac etc, usually available from a Marine Supply store like West Marine. They were designed to get oil out of inboard marine engines that you can't get underneath to drain. This lets you stick the tube down the dipstick hole, pump up the vacuum on the Pela and watch the oil being sucked up into the container. This takes 10 minutes or so, at the same time you undo the cap from the oil filter, which is also on top of the engine, take out the oil filter element and when you have sucked all the oil out of the sump you stick the tube down in the oil filter hole and suck out the oil down there. Then you put in the new filter element, put the cap back on and fill up the car with oil. You don't have to get under the car or open any drain plugs, there is no drip tray or mess on the garage floor and all the old oil is already in the container ready to be poured back into the jug the new oil came out of so you can recycle it...... very clean and painless.

You can still do it the old fashioned way, put it up on jacks and remove the belly pan (the engine is fully enclosed underneath to protect it from dirt and debris), then remove the drain plug, replace the crush washer and retorque it back into the very soft aluminium sump, being careful not to overtighten and strip the plug.... in the meantime you need a drip tray to catch the oil and you need to slide in and out from under the car - ands its tight under there..... Depends how much you drive, I change my oil twice a year since I put on more than 10K miles per year. You could pay the dealership whatever they charge $80.00+ but that would buy you a Pela, I would rather do my own changes, you know what you put in and you know its done right.....

I can use the Mity Vac to pump fuel back into the fuel filter as well correct?

I think you have sold me on the concept 100%. I like the idea of a quick oil change. I suction from the dipstick hole right? And it seems like everyone is comfortable with 10k oil changes, though this older german mechanic was steering me away from synthetic and 10k oil changes. I'ma say this community as a whole has more experience than he does.

I bought the car from an AutoNation where they said, they didn't show it on paper, that they topped off the fluids. I am weary as to what fluids they used. They also said the changed the oil, and put it on paper and it does say 5w40, but I am still weary as to when its next oil change should be because I am not certain whats in it. They put one of those oil change stickers for 3k. The way I see it they were either being really precautious or...