TDI Cam Timing Adjustment (for rough idle) How-to (with pics)

[NL-TDI]

A question for someone who has done this procedure:

When I re-tightened the 3 sprocket bolts, I was very nervous about breaking them, mostly because reading this thread I learned of someone else who broke them. So what I am wondering is how tight do the bolts get? To me it seemed like they were turning back in more then they turned coming out and I was scared to go too tight and twist off the bolt. I do have a torque wrench howeven not sure if I trust it. It is in in-pounds and NM. According to a online conversion 18 ft pounds is 24 NM but as I said the bolts seemed to be turning back a lot and not getting real tight. Any insight would be appreciated.

tks

[DanG144]

You might buy new bolts if you are concerned.

These never had TTY bolts in them, but someone could have installed TTY bolts from an injection pump by mistake, though it seems a low probability event.

And try a different torque wrench.

I have never had any issue with using 18 ft/lb.

Watch your pulley to ensure it is running true. If you backed the bolts out too much it might have slipped out of place just a tad, and no longere be tight and square on the hub. Again, this does not seem too likely.

[NL-TDI]

ok guys......did a lot of test driving today and the car purrs like a kitten!! never ran smoother, every time I stoped at a red light I was waiting for the roughness but it never came.!!!!!..........Went to Advanced Autowerk's in Ottawa and got Gord to check the timing with their computer. This guys are great....highly recommend them to anyone who needs help with there VW!!!!!! I Was quite happy to see a reading in block 4, value 4 of..1.4kw .....I think this is in the acceptable range and I'm quite happy with the way its running so I am going to leave it there. Not interested in fixing it till it's broke....LOL.....Thanks to everyone who posted on here with this great info...

Jon

[zanzabar]

Originally Posted by NL-TDI

ok guys......did a lot of test driving today and the car purrs like a kitten!! never ran smoother, every time I stoped at a red light I was waiting for the roughness but it never came.!!!!!..........Went to Advanced Autowerk's in Ottawa and got Gord to check the timing with their computer. This guys are great....highly recommend them to anyone who needs help with there VW!!!!!! I Was quite happy to see a reading in block 4, value 4 of..1.4kw .....I think this is in the acceptable range and I'm quite happy with the way its running so I am going to leave it there. Not interested in fixing it till it's broke....LOL.....Thanks to everyone who posted on here with this great info...

Jon

Lucky guy! Glad your 'intuition' on setting that cam was good. Still, this is in no way justification for doing this 'repair' blind like you did. In other words: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! I think 1.4 should be fine, I have mine at 2.0 I think.

[NL-TDI]

Thanks...I think.....LOL.....sometimes you do the best you can with what you have and hope for the best...I won a free coffee today too so must be my lucky day!!

[okie]

So I got a 06 BRM Jetta and checked the 4/4 value and it was 0.0. Cool, a week later I changed the timing belt and checked again, 0.0. I went 1,000 miles to let the belt strech and checked, 0.0. So I moved the CAM just a bit clockwise. It runs better, smoother, checked the 4/4 value and it's 0.0!

My first guess is the CAM position sensor G40 (or wires) are toast. Checked codes and found a G40 code set.

If the G40 is out will the torsion value always show 0.0?

[DanG144]

I am not positive, but I think if it is out of range, it reads 0.0. This is a terrible way to build it, but I think it works this way.

I know one person who went all the way to the end of the slot, and it read 0.0, and it ran like crap. When he got it closer to right then it started displaying realistic numbers.

I think it is showing the substitute number that the ECU is using - zero - when the sensor has failed.

[okie]

Originally Posted by okie

So I got a 06 BRM Jetta and checked the 4/4 value and it was 0.0. Cool, a week later I changed the timing belt and checked again, 0.0. I went 1,000 miles to let the belt strech and checked, 0.0. So I moved the CAM just a bit clockwise. It runs better, smoother, checked the 4/4 value and it's 0.0!

My first guess is the CAM position sensor G40 (or wires) are toast. Checked codes and found a G40 code set.

If the G40 is out will the torsion value always show 0.0?

A little more info, went for a test drive (runs great BTW) and the torsion values never moved from 0.0 I did WOT under load, no load, everything I could and the torsion value never changed.

[okie]

Originally Posted by Hurst89

I have mine set at 4.9 hot idling. I also got my best mpg on a tank the other day since installing my new wheels (a year ago). I managed to get just under 45 mpg with about 80-85% highway travel going an actual 75ish mph. Before, the most I could get out of a trip like this would be just above 42 mpg, so a 2.5 mpg gain or more is what I have gotten on one tank, but I am not sure how good of data that is. I will know a little better this summer when I get to driving around some more on the open road. My MFD is really low now though, reading around 5 mpg low compared to the 1 or 2 mpg high it was reading. Has anyone found where the timing limits are in the Bentley manual?

Hurst

So, (I know this is an old quote) did the timing adjustment change the MFD readings or had you done something else to the car?

[Hurst89]

If I remember correctly, when I changed the timing, the fuel mileage indicated on the MFD also changed. I can't remember what caused it to read high or low (advancing or retarding), but I am pretty sure it changed the mpg figure. I think this is due to the way the computer measures fuel being injected, and a camshaft timing adjustment changes the profile of the cam the injector rocker is riding on at a given time in the engine's rotation.

Hurst

[Mach1]

Hurst, you are right, when the timing is adjusted, it effects the reading in the MPG...I noticied this as well...

Got mine set at 0.0...Remember this setting/adjustment accomplishes 2 things, changes the cam/crank relationship(cam timing), and the ignition timing... So not to change the relationship of the cam timing, I would recomend setting straight up at 0.0....

[Dunno513]

Originally Posted by DanG144

Besides, your timing sounds perfect as it presently is set. I think 0.0 to 0.5 is the best setting.

This is what mine is set to but I notice it flickers from 0.0 to 0.5 depending on power application. Just got done with a timing belt. Anyone else notice theirs changing while driving?

I suspect that I am right on the cusp in regards to the sensor position. It is 0.0 while under power and changes to 0.5 while coasting or idling.

[DanG144]

Originally Posted by Dunno513

This is what mine is set to but I notice it flickers from 0.0 to 0.5 depending on power application. Just got done with a timing belt. Anyone else notice theirs changing while driving?

I suspect that I am right on the cusp in regards to the sensor position. It is 0.0 while under power and changes to 0.5 while coasting or idling.

This is normal.

[Dunno513]

Thanks... Just a bit nerve racking after having JUST done the TB 5 miles prior....

[sk8rdi16]

Originally Posted by DanG144

I am not positive, but I think if it is out of range, it reads 0.0. This is a terrible way to build it, but I think it works this way.

I know one person who went all the way to the end of the slot, and it read 0.0, and it ran like crap. When he got it closer to right then it started displaying realistic numbers.

I think it is showing the substitute number that the ECU is using - zero - when the sensor has failed.

Can anyone confirm this? I get a reading of 0.0 but the engine is running VERY bad. Missing, bucking, and tons of black smoke. Just hoping it's the cam timing before I put a new cam in!