TDI Cam Timing Adjustment (for rough idle) How-to (with pics)

Hurst89 · June 1st, 2008, 09:14

Well, after reading the rough idle thread, I finally did my cam timing adjustment. I took pictures of the mechanical part of the adjustment, my computer screen on my laptop doesn't show up very well on my camera, so maybe someone else can upload those pictures. Anyway, here is a little writeup on the adjustment.

Before starting) Get your vagcom fired up, and with the car warmed up and idling, go to the Engine measuring blocks, group 4, and the 4th box over (It is the furthest rightward idle stabilization box) and see what your value is. It is supposed to be between 2-5 (positive values, not negative). Your adjustments ARE NOT to be done according to the 2nd box "ign timing" box (I did this at first and realized it wouldn't change). Also, my car could go to 8.9 on the idle stabilization you are watching and still start, so the car will let it run too far advanced.

1) Pop the hood and remove the engine cover (just like you have to do on most anything lol)

2) Find the boost hose that runs in front of the timing belt cover, and using a screw driver or, as I found easier, a paint can opener, pry the clips on the boost hose ends off all the way.

Engine side of the boost hose

Intercooler side of the boost hose

You will see the clip I am talking about is a thin silver wirey piece. These two pictures show the clip removed and slid back.

3) Undo the T-30 bolt that holds the boost pipe onto the head. (The only torx bit you will encounter in this repair!)

The torx bit

4) Lightly pull up on the fuel and coolant hoses which are in the little clips on the plastic part of the boost pipe

5) Wiggle the boost pipe out from the engine bay. Mine had a good coating of oil in it, which was really surprising to me, but the good news was the cleanliness of the egr throttling butterfly and the part of the intake/EGR system I could see. All I had was just a little coating of soot on one side of the inside. Also, a good time to make sure the butterfly is working fine.

6) Undo the two spring clips which hold the top half of the timing belt cover on. There is one that is easy to see right in front of you when you get the boost pipe out of the way, but there is a second one directly opposite of the front one on the back of the cover. Both are accelable with a shorter screw driver, but you can pop them with just your fingers too.

The back one is right in the middle of this picture

The front clip
*Note, the clips are attached to the plastic cover, so don't pull on the wrong end and break something.

7)Pull the timing cover slightly upward so it clears the cam pulley, and then wiggle it out of the engine bay (I know that doesn't sound really formal or manual-like, but "wiggle" is about the best term for describing how to get these things out of this space).

Top timing belt cover off!

8) Loosen the 3 smaller bolts with a 13mm socket and ratchet (or a wrench if you so wish)

9) Using an 18mm socket on the center bolt (or a wrench I guess if you can get it to fit), turn the cam sprocket slightly clockwise (It will kind of slip loose all of a sudden, so be ready to quit applying pressure and it will take quite a bit of pressure to get it to turn). Once you get it turned about 1/8 of an inch, tighten the 3 bolts down to 18 ftlbs and fire up the engine (make sure you are not in a dusty environment, if you are, then reconnect the boost hose and make sure you put towels in all the connections exposed and in the ends of the boost pipe).

18mm socket

10) Your Engine measuring block group 4, furthest right box should read between -2.5 and 2.5 (changed to updated spec). I got mine to 4.9 (again, engine fully warmed up and idling WITHOUT A/C OR DEFROSTERS OR ANY OTHER ELECTRICAL/ENGINE LOADS (this applies for the initial reading also) (I still have it set on this, will probably change over Christmas Break).

11) If you have a number higher than positive 5, then you have advanced the timing too much. If your car doesn't start, you have advanced the timing a fair bit too far. Don't panic though, it is easy to tune back in. If your timing is not between 2-5 yet, then repeat the last steps to advance it more.

12) If you went too far, then loosen the three bolts on the cam pulley again. Now, there are two ways to do this. You may have lock with just turning the center bolt counter clockwise, but if you are like me, I had the bolt begin to loosen (again, if this happens, don't panic, just retorque the bolt). You can also, loosen the 3 bolts, then get in the car, and just barely flip the starter. This causes the pulley to go to the full retarded position in the bolt slots, so you can start from scratch again. Now go about advancing it to spec.

If you have an MFD display with MPG, it may need to be recallibrated, I cannot say for sure personally, but have read others have had a problem with it. I noticed the power band seemed to go to redline now, maybe a hair past. Also, the car is a lot smoother idling, seems to have more torque at idle, and sounds a hair quiter at idle.

Reassembly, just reverse these instructions. Make sure you slide the timing belt cover down, under the bottom cover. It takes some "wiggling" to get it back in, but it usually lines itself up nicely. Also, watch the wire that runs right by the top camshaft pulley. Make sure it is OUTSIDE the cover.

Tools I used:

(paint opener, T-30 torx driver, 13mm socket, 18mm socket)

If you have any questions, let me know.

Hurst

maloosheck · June 1st, 2008, 15:00

Thanks for the pictures. I need to do this as well. I just did not have time yet...

Hurst89 · June 1st, 2008, 17:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by maloosheck

I just did not have time yet...

You haven't had time to time your engine!?! Sorry, couldn't resist the pun

Mach1 · June 1st, 2008, 23:59

You can see the little window with the pointer and 'teeth', this is what I used for reference, so I didn't bump the timing too much, then if you need to turn it back you have a reference.

Good write up Hurst...

hutchman · June 2nd, 2008, 19:35

I have the latest Vag-COM 805 Hex+CAN.

I go to Engine, measure blocks, group 4. The box (4-4) says something about Tortion and says the range is from -3 to +3 and mine is reading -1.5.

Am I looking at the right place?

Lightflyer1 · June 2nd, 2008, 20:15

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...&postcount=181

SootHappens · June 2nd, 2008, 20:21

The new version of the vag-com software no longer says "idle stabilization"

I can't go look right now, but I'm sure it's still group 4 block 4 you are concerned with...

hutchman · June 3rd, 2008, 04:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by SootHappens

The new version of the vag-com software no longer says "idle stabilization"

I can't go look right now, but I'm sure it's still group 4 block 4 you are concerned with...

I was pretty sure I was looking where you guys said but the label on that block threw me and then when I went into the Advanced measure section and selected block 4-4 it said the range was something like -3 to +3 and you guys said 2-5 so I just wanted to make sure before I did anything. I have the TB tools for my VE and I've been wanting to pull the valve cover and check it out so maybe this will motivate me to open it up and check it out some. TB change on this car isn't too far away so I need to check out the BRM specific tools I'm missing and where they go.

I blew away version 704 but I think I have a few versions that are earlier. When I get the time and can get access to the car (she keeps the roads hot with it) I'll play around some more.

hutchman · June 3rd, 2008, 04:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lightflyer1

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...&postcount=181

Yep, that is where I was and the block values look the same but the labels that describe what they are have all changed (except RPM)!

Hurst89 · June 3rd, 2008, 06:11

Where is the official timing limits for this engine? I couldn't find them in the bentley manual, but I am not very good at finding stuff in that manual yet. I just want to make sure my 4.9 is not too advance. I noticed it doesn't lope any more, but I feel a kind of murmur every once in a while, almost like the engine overfuels and underfuels for a split second, then it is smooth as a whistle. It does this about every 8-10 seconds. Is this possibly the DMF wobbling around causing the engine to over fuel and underfuel?

Hurst

hutchman · June 3rd, 2008, 06:39

Homie don't play DMF games anymore!

Hurst89 · June 3rd, 2008, 10:10

Yeah, I just need to find a used flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate in a junk yard so I can take them to the clutch shop to get redone. This guy has done great work and done the work at a lot less than new or reman parts cost, so if I can find the good cores, I will just use him and then replace the DMF... everything just takes time and money (I don't have much money with the rising fuel prices, and I don't have much time with extra hours I am working to pay for fuel/parts...)

Hurst

06SpiceRedTDI · June 3rd, 2008, 12:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hurst89

Yeah, I just need to find a used flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate in a junk yard so I can take them to the clutch shop to get redone. This guy has done great work and done the work at a lot less than new or reman parts cost, so if I can find the good cores, I will just use him and then replace the DMF... everything just takes time and money (I don't have much money with the rising fuel prices, and I don't have much time with extra hours I am working to pay for fuel/parts...)

Hurst

http://www.boraparts.com/catalog/pro...products_id=65

not a bad price if someone wants to stick with the DMF setup.

Hurst89 · June 3rd, 2008, 15:10

If/when I do the clutch, I am going to probably go SMF, both for simplicty and my disliking of the DMF's engagement (really grabby and touchy). Also, the SMF is quite a bit less expensive and a more proven design. I am just wondering if the little jerk I feel the engine give is a result of the DMF. I just rolled 50k, so I am not under too much warrenty any more (I think just engine and transmission right?)

Hurst

hutchman · June 3rd, 2008, 16:46

Hurst, what is your build date? Mine is July 05. I went SMF in both cars. Don't want to ever deal with a DMF going out again ... which reminds me, I need to post the pictures of the failed DMF!