Freon/Fluids question mk3 tdi

cfm56

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Location
97068
TDI
2014 Jetta TDI SportWagen
Changing out the ac condensor and was wondering if i should bring the ac system freon with me that is made specifically for vw or should i leave it to the ac shop to charge the system. (the stuff that came out was similer to regular engine coolant in color (green))

Also, im changing out the tranny fluid, power steering fluid, coolant and possibly brake fluid and wanted to see from mk3 tdi owners what fluids/brands really worked out for them.


also, im changing out the radiator and the fluid the previous owner used is green....now from what i understand for vw's the pink type color wise is preferred right? and im thinking i would need to flush out the system with new coolant if changing color type and then refilling it right? i would think this is to take care of cross-contamination issues? apologize for all the questions...but this is the only way to get answers from the more experianced tdi crowd....and yes i did research on here but did not find a thread to answer my question(s)
 

Zero10

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Location
Calgary, AB
TDI
05 Golf TDI PD, Tiptronic
The A/C condensor does not have anything in it that looks similar to engine coolant or is specific to VW. It has R134A in it with a little bit of compressor oil. Typically it's better to have the shop who is charging your system provide the refrigerant, since they will buy it in much larger cylinders and can measure the exact right amount to put into your system.
 

wrenchman30

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Location
arkansas
TDI
2005.5 gray 2006 dark blue
the green is most likely dye. it may have had a leak and they dyed it to find it. i would recomend green anti freeze to you as i have seen how the red (extened life) antifreeze eats up cylinder heads and blocks. however almost everyone here will tell you to use the vw pink,red,purple (extended life coolant.
 

hevster1

Vendor
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Location
Columbia NJ
TDI
98 NB
wrenchman30 said:
the green is most likely dye. it may have had a leak and they dyed it to find it. i would recomend green anti freeze to you as i have seen how the red (extened life) antifreeze eats up cylinder heads and blocks. however almost everyone here will tell you to use the vw pink,red,purple (extended life coolant.
???????Since when? Most of the green coolant is high silica which eats water pumps and aluminum. One of the main problems is that extended life coolant should be changed at a MAX of 50k no matter what and that is if you are using de-ionized water. For distilled water a max of 30k is the norm. Trouble is that few do it. What most do is they change their water pump at 100k along with the coolant. At that point the coolant is dead. On my own TDI I actually use premixed Toyota Sllc coolant(which is pink and is premixed with deionized) and change it once a year as I do about 50k a year.
I agree on the dye in the A/C system. Make sure you change your receiver drier also and evacuate for at least 1 hour to get maximum performance from the system. The receiver drier should be the last thing installed and must not remain open to atmosphere more than 10 minutes MAX. The vacuum pump should be already connected when the receiver/drier is installed and immediately switched to on as soon as the lines are connected.
 
Last edited:

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
wrenchman30 said:
the green is most likely dye. it may have had a leak and they dyed it to find it. i would recomend green anti freeze to you as i have seen how the red (extened life) antifreeze eats up cylinder heads and blocks. however almost everyone here will tell you to use the vw pink,red,purple (extended life coolant.
That has to be the DUMBEST thing you have posted yet as for advice on a TDI!

NEVER EVER EVER use a green coolant in ANY TDI EVER BUILT!

I can tell you right now you have NEVER seen ANY damage done by VW-G12 (HOAT) coolant EVER!

You have absolutely NO idea what you are talking about wrenchman30!

DB
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
hevster1 said:
???????Since when? Most of the green coolant is high silica which eats water pumps and aluminum. One of the main problems is that extended life coolant should be changed at a MAX of 50k no matter what and that is if you are using de-ionized water. For distilled water a max of 30k is the norm. Trouble is that few do it. What most do is they change their water pump at 100k along with the coolant. At that point the coolant is dead. On my own TDI I actually use premixed Toyota Sllc coolant(which is pink and is premixed with deionized) and change it once a year as I do about 50k a year.
I agree on the dye in the A/C system. Make sure you change your receiver drier also and evacuate for at least 1 hour to get maximum performance from the system. The receiver drier should be the last thing installed and must not remain open to atmosphere more than 10 minutes MAX. The vacuum pump should be already connected when the receiver/drier is installed and immediately switched to on as soon as the lines are connected.
I need to post an article on coolants I got a month back. Very good reading and it would make you think twice (if not 5 times) about doing what you are doing to your cooling system...

Leave the coolant in the engine and do not change it needlessly.

The best advice is to replace coolant when you replace the water pump. THEN install:

G-12 (pink)
70/30 ratio of Coolant and Distilled or Reverse Osmosis de-Ionized water

G-12+ (purple)
60/40 ratio of coolant and Distilled or Reverse Osmosis de-Ionized water

DB
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
cfm56 said:
Changing out the ac condensor and was wondering if i should bring the ac system freon with me that is made specifically for vw or should i leave it to the ac shop to charge the system. (the stuff that came out was similer to regular engine coolant in color (green))
Yes the factory oil (synthetic R-134a oil) has a greenish tint to it.


Also, im changing out the tranny fluid, power steering fluid, coolant and possibly brake fluid and wanted to see from mk3 tdi owners what fluids/brands really worked out for them.
Tranny fluid: Use the VW fluid G70, Cost $14.00 a liter requires 2 liters.

Coolant: Replace it ONLY when you replace your water pump. On the A3/1Z models thats around 180,000 to 240,000 miles. Yes the coolant is that good! Keep in mind the VW cooling systems are completely sealed and airtight, they do NOT require any addition of fluid during the life of the coolant. Since the system is sealed the reactions that occur which result in a layer that protects the cooling system ceased in the first 6,000 miles of the cooling systems life. The system is in a state of "balance" that should not be thrown off by adding new coolant and water mixtures. In any case "when" you replace the water pump, use ONLY G-12 specification coolant (pentosin) or factory coolant in the 70/30 or 60/40 maximum ration listed on the VW bottle for optimum protection to your engine and cooling system.

Steering fluid: Again this requires a unique fluid "G002" this is sold as Pentosin CHF 11s
Pentosin CHF 11S is a special proprietary synthetic mineral high performance Vw power steering fluid. This power steering fluid is designed for extended mileage interval changes. This fluid is unique in its ability to maintain consistent viscosity in extreme operating temperatures from -40°C to over 130°C.
  • This is the top line Vw power steering fluid, especially designed for hydraulics of the highest technical requirements
  • Equivalent to Vw power steering fluid part number G 002 000 (G002000).
  • Due to its excellent features it's suitable for Vw, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Porsche, Saab, Volvo System and hydraulic suspension systems
  • Equivalent to BMW power steering fluid part numbers 82.11.1.468.041 and 81.22.9.407.758, Porsche power steering fluid part number 000.043.203.33
I would suggest extracting the fluid from the reservoir or draining from the feed line to the pump. Top off and start car. Then verify fluid level once air is purged. I estimate every 100K would be prudent.

Brake Fluid: This must be replaced every two years using ONLY DOT-4 compliant fluids! Also your cars clutch uses the brake system fluid to supply it, so this too must be flushed. The best advice is to use a pressure bleeder to avoid a few pitfalls. The cost of the bleeder is $60.00 (Motive Products, European bleeder). It permits you to service the system BY YOURSELF without somebody pumping the brakes. ALSO it allows a perfect flush since the old fluid is flushed out in a steady stream and limits mixing of the old fluid.

Just a tidbit, extract ALL the old fluid from the reservoir FIRST, remove and clean the reservoir THEN fill and purge. The last thing you need in a brake system is to push all that old fluid thru the system that was pooled in the reservoir.


[/quote]
also, im changing out the radiator and the fluid the previous owner used is green....now from what i understand for vw's the pink type color wise is preferred right? and im thinking i would need to flush out the system with new coolant if changing color type and then refilling it right? i would think this is to take care of cross-contamination issues? apologize for all the questions...but this is the only way to get answers from the more experianced tdi crowd....and yes i did research on here but did not find a thread to answer my question(s)[/quote]

There is a TSB regarding use of the WRONG coolant...and an in depth procedure on what to do to clean the system from the "Brown Goo" that results.

DB
 
Last edited:

wrenchman30

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Location
arkansas
TDI
2005.5 gray 2006 dark blue
db its apparant you have never seen long life engines and the damage from extended life coolant. in realality its apparant you dont know alot about engines and there design functions. i dont know why you dont start your own website as everyone else is wrong all the time. and you have no clue about bimetal springs in a thermostat either. and that is a basic engine componet. so why dont you take your mb to the dealer and have them service it again. and then bad mouth all dealer mechanics. and pull the tranny to find tdc in a engine. crank it over with no lube on the cam bearings and post some more bearing damage pics that has been scratched. while red antifreeze (extended life) is a install and forget it due to no scaling deposits in a radiator it will eat a engine block and head up. i have seen it numerous times. 1.3 million mile cat block fine, 600,000 mile cat block eat up. the million mile engine has green the eat up one has red. we see it all the time. and that was this past week. while were on the topic of stupid posts your thermal efficency theory is wrong. and your exhaust temp recomendations are wrong. the head is also alumnium and will melt even if the piston has a "cast" part to raise the temp it will melt. and lets not forget that stupid vaccum filter minder. that thing has cost more engine failures needlessly than i can count. in the last 17 years of my proffesional carrer repairing diesel engines at least a million bucks to owners in expense. over a air filter replacement. and if your going to buy it the fleetguard one is 7 bucks not the 26 from cat. i dont have the time to debunk all of your posts and most of the info i do have is copyrighted and i dont feel like posting it. your pictures are nice however make them fit so it wont make the web page so big. go to here http://www.nadccs.com/ and get your degree i did you will learn more than you can imagine. and find out a lot you think you know is wrong. you seem to be a intelgent person just misinformed about a lot of things. your bull headness makes you a arrogant idiot. this site is yours as i will not be posting here anymore. have a nice life.
 

mijbo11

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Location
Saskatoon SK Canada
TDI
1999 A3 Jetta
I guess all those aluminum parts on the cat engine needed the red antifreeze( read sarcasm). The Green antifreeze is more of a cast iron type anti freeze while the red is more for aluminum. i too have seen failures in 600000 mile engines but with both types of coolant. im sure there is more to g12 coolant than just long life vs regular. but i guess there are still people around that think they know more about these things than the engineers that designed them.
 

mijbo11

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Location
Saskatoon SK Canada
TDI
1999 A3 Jetta
how would a restriction indicator dust an engine i have never seen it. it is usually the guy who doesnt know hoe to use it . or again ..knowing more than the engineer.....:rolleyes:
 

VeeDubTDI

Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Location
Springfield, VA
TDI
‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
wrenchman30 said:
the green is most likely dye. it may have had a leak and they dyed it to find it. i would recomend green anti freeze to you as i have seen how the red (extened life) antifreeze eats up cylinder heads and blocks. however almost everyone here will tell you to use the vw pink,red,purple (extended life coolant.
Wow, total n00b failure right there. You couldn't possibly be any more wrong.
 

VeeDubTDI

Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Location
Springfield, VA
TDI
‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
wrenchman30, would use also recommend that I use the magic green stuff in my PSD? Because if I did, my wet liners would pit all the way through and trash the entire engine. Maybe I should give it a try... after all, it's just the dye that makes it that color. No other difference whatsoever.
 

darkscout

Grammar Scout
Joined
May 28, 2006
Location
Michigan
TDI
2003 Golf
Drivbiwire, Join Date: Oct 1998
wrenchman30, Join Date: Oct 2007.

Sorry but I'm going to have to side with the reigning vet. I suppose you're going to be calling out Oilhammer, MOGolf, Jettah, JasonTDI, and paramedick as a group of idiots too. (Sorry everyone I forgot, I'm in the midwest). I mean they obviously haven't seen any 200k+ TDI engines.

First. A C7+ Cat and a TDI engine share little in common. Suck Squeeze Bang Blow, a radiator... that's about it.

You want to know what color Cat coolant is? That's right, strawberry red. Caterpillar. Extended. Life. Coolant. The stuff that the world's largest maker of diesel engines puts in their stuff from the factory. Is red.

While we're at it, please enlighten us on the correct thermal efficency[sic] theory.

And what should be the correct recomendations[sic] for EGT be? Because I'm sure on all the Cat engines that you see every day they have VNT-15s hanging off the back of them.

Again, in the last 17 years in your proffesional[sic] carrer[sic] how many 1.9L automotive engines have you come across?

I would love to see you debunk some of his better posts. I'll see if I can get a few friends in Mossville, IL to get some popcorn and watch.
 

cfm56

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Location
97068
TDI
2014 Jetta TDI SportWagen
Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate the advice and will put it to good use.
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
wrenchman30 said:
the green is most likely dye. it may have had a leak and they dyed it to find it. i would recomend green anti freeze to you as i have seen how the red (extened life) antifreeze eats up cylinder heads and blocks. however almost everyone here will tell you to use the vw pink,red,purple (extended life coolant.

You're still talking down G12 after this thread?

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=193128


There's a very good reason the collective wisdom of the forum recommends VW G12+, there is NOT ONE documented case where this coolant has failed to live up to its claim as a lifetime coolant. Not here on TDIClub, VWVortex, Audiworld, etc. There is not one documented case on any car forum anywhere on the Internet where G12/G12+ has caused any damage to any VAG product. Don't confuse my statement to mean VW water pumps do not fail, they do fail as any mechanical device will. I'm only referring to G12 coolant.

.
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
wrenchman30 said:
db its apparant you have never seen long life engines and the damage from extended life coolant. in realality its apparant you dont know alot about engines and there design functions. i dont know why you dont start your own website as everyone else is wrong all the time. and you have no clue about bimetal springs in a thermostat either. and that is a basic engine componet. so why dont you take your mb to the dealer and have them service it again. and then bad mouth all dealer mechanics. and pull the tranny to find tdc in a engine. crank it over with no lube on the cam bearings and post some more bearing damage pics that has been scratched. while red antifreeze (extended life) is a install and forget it due to no scaling deposits in a radiator it will eat a engine block and head up. i have seen it numerous times. 1.3 million mile cat block fine, 600,000 mile cat block eat up. the million mile engine has green the eat up one has red. we see it all the time. and that was this past week. while were on the topic of stupid posts your thermal efficency theory is wrong. and your exhaust temp recomendations are wrong. the head is also alumnium and will melt even if the piston has a "cast" part to raise the temp it will melt. and lets not forget that stupid vaccum filter minder. that thing has cost more engine failures needlessly than i can count. in the last 17 years of my proffesional carrer repairing diesel engines at least a million bucks to owners in expense. over a air filter replacement. and if your going to buy it the fleetguard one is 7 bucks not the 26 from cat. i dont have the time to debunk all of your posts and most of the info i do have is copyrighted and i dont feel like posting it. your pictures are nice however make them fit so it wont make the web page so big. go to here http://www.nadccs.com/ and get your degree i did you will learn more than you can imagine. and find out a lot you think you know is wrong. you seem to be a intelgent person just misinformed about a lot of things. your bull headness makes you a arrogant idiot. this site is yours as i will not be posting here anymore. have a nice life.
Just to point out how clueless you are in regards to VW's and anything diesel...

wrenchman30 said:
db its apparant you have never seen long life engines and the damage from extended life coolant. in realality its apparant you dont know alot about engines and there design functions. i dont know why you dont start your own website as everyone else is wrong all the time. and you have no clue about bimetal springs in a thermostat either.
And here is what VW has to say about that!

VW Engine Coolant Thermostat Function and description said:
Once the temperature of the coolant goes up to or between 180 and 195 degrees Fahrenheit (89-91 degrees Celsius), the thermostat opens. As the thermostat opens, it allows the fluid to go directly into the radiator in order to be cooled. And once that coolant reaches 200 to 218 F (93-103 Celsius), then the thermostat opens all the way.

The thermostat lies in the small cylinder located at the engine-side of the component. The cylinder is filled with wax that melts when the temperature reaches 180 F. A rod is also connected to the valve which is responsible in pressing the wax. While the wax melts down, it expands, pushing the rod out of the straw.
How about Wikipedia?
Wax pellet
Actual VW TDI Thermostat:

car engine thermostat


A thermostat is used in automobiles containing an internal combustion engine to regulate the flow of coolant.
This type of thermostat operates mechanically. It makes use of a wax pellet inside a sealed chamber. The wax is solid at low temperatures but as the engine heats up the wax melts and expands. The sealed chamber has an expansion provision that operates a rod which opens a valve when the operating temperature is exceeded. The operating temperature is fixed, but is determined by the specific composition of the wax, so thermostats of this type are available to maintain different temperatures, typically in the range of 70 to 90 °C (160 to 200 °F). Modern engines run hot, that is, over 80 °C (180 °F), in order to run more efficiently and to reduce the emission of pollutants. Most thermostats have a small bypass hole to vent any gas that might get into the system (e.g., air introduced during coolant replacement), this small bypass hole is under normal circumstances used to have a small flow when the thermostat is still closed. Without this flow it would be impossible for the thermostat to react correctly on the heating up water. Modern cooling systems contain a relief valve in the form of a spring-loaded radiator pressure cap, with a tube leading to a partially filled expansion reservoir. Owing to the high temperature, the cooling system will become pressurized to a maximum set by the relief valve. The additional pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant above that which it would be at atmospheric pressure.
This is also the same mechanism that triggers sprinkler systems in buildings, the "red Bulb" you see is the wax, this expands shattering the glass thus opening the sprinkler to suppress the fire...I'm no fireman but I think thats the jist of it.

Wrenchman30, don't go away mad...just go away :D

DB
 
Last edited:

VeeDubTDI

Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Location
Springfield, VA
TDI
‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
LOL. Pete, that was grade A material right there.
 

VeeDubTDI

Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Location
Springfield, VA
TDI
‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
wrenchman30 said:
you seem to be a intelgent person just misinformed about a lot of things. your bull headness makes you a arrogant idiot. this site is yours as i will not be posting here anymore. have a nice life.
Looks like we've lost a truly knowledgable TDI mechanic here folks. Let the mourning begin. :rolleyes:
 

hevster1

Vendor
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Location
Columbia NJ
TDI
98 NB
Drivbiwire said:
I need to post an article on coolants I got a month back. Very good reading and it would make you think twice (if not 5 times) about doing what you are doing to your cooling system...

Leave the coolant in the engine and do not change it needlessly.

The best advice is to replace coolant when you replace the water pump. THEN install:

G-12 (pink)
70/30 ratio of Coolant and Distilled or Reverse Osmosis de-Ionized water

G-12+ (purple)
60/40 ratio of coolant and Distilled or Reverse Osmosis de-Ionized water

DB
Drive, no offense intended but I have seen numerous failures due to coolant being left in place for too long on all types of car and light truck engines.
G-12 is a good coolant. Both Toyota red and Toyota pink are as well. Any ratio beyond 50-50 is overkill for my area and can cause a vehicle to run hotter as straight water is by far the best at dissipating heat. Coolant is there to prevent boil over and to extend freeze protection. And yes I know TDI's run cooler than gas engines in general.
De-ionized water is extremely hard to come by in my area. Toyota Pink has a mix of 50-50 coolant to De-ionized. It is also a top quality coolant meant for Aluminum radiators and engines. I use it because of those reasons.
Leaving coolant in too long will eventually cause issues. Ask any vehicle manufacturer if you don't believe me, and yes I have read many of the articles posted here.
Just for giggles, EVERY ALH water pump I have replaced which had more than 80k was showing signs of leakage. EVERY T-belt was fraying. I change mine at 80 and recommend the same to my customers. According to some here that makes me crazy as I am wasting money. So what, I have peace of mind. The same goes for coolant.
 
Last edited:

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Not true, G12 should be used in a 70/30 ratio in a TDI. G12+ should be 60/40. Lets keep this on track regarding TDI's and talk TDI's, what goes on with a Toyota is completely irrelevant as comparing a coolant based on color is meaningless. Comparing the actual chemistry is the only way to compare and I am pretty sure Toyota does not use an HOAT type coolant like VW does.

VW cooling systems are "Sealed" as in airtight that prevents the release of water vapor (steam) when in operation. The system when new and the G12 is first added reacts to the system and "stablizes" in a short period of time during the initial operation of the engine (4,000-6,000 miles).

Once that inital stabilization occurs and the system is left closed there is no further break down of the coolant UNLESS you change or add something to the engines cooling system (water, components etc).

I will give 248,000 reasons why you should leave a VW coolling system alone. Here is an example of a TDI motor run for 248,000 miles, coolant has NEVER been changed, NO coolant or water every added, All original cooling system components...

This is the inside of the aluminum water pump housing of a 1Z motor total miles without a coolant change 247,580 miles



Any ratio beyond 50-50 is overkill for my area and can cause a vehicle to run hotter as straight water is by far the best at dissipating heat. Coolant is there to prevent boil over and to extend freeze protection.
50/50 is NOT a suitable ratio for a TDI... The head and cylinder liners run hotter than let's say a Toyota (localized heat). This can cause surface boiling and pitting of the block and head. Running the optimum ratio of G12 is the best way to prevent internal pitting and damage to the motor.

G12 Ratios and heat/Freeze ranges:

Freeze... -35F...-62F......-83F
-Boil-......264F...269F......277F
-Ratio-50/50...60/40......70/30

Again NOBODY has EVER shown a SINGLE event where G12 has ever failed or caused damage to a TDI motor even those with a quarter million miles on the coolant without ever having been changed...

DB
 
Last edited:

cfm56

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Location
97068
TDI
2014 Jetta TDI SportWagen
anyone have a p/n for the g70 manual transmission oil? My local vw dealership parts department customer rep doesnt have a clue what g70 gear oil is. Thanks
 

cfm56

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Location
97068
TDI
2014 Jetta TDI SportWagen
cfm56 said:
anyone have a p/n for the g70 manual transmission oil? My local vw dealership parts department customer rep doesnt have a clue what g70 gear oil is. Thanks
So i went today to the VW dealer closer to my house and returned the gear oil since the p/n off one bottle starts with g060 and the other bottle starts with g070. I decided to keep the g070 p/n and they replaced the other bottle with a g055 p/n. They were stating that the g055 is the same oil as the g70 and that the g70 is the new p/n for the g55. The sales rep even showed me the computer concerning this (that the g70 is the new part number for the g55)..... im a tad bit confused. I would think that g70 would have diff properties compared to a g55 or g60 right? this would make the g70 a diff type of gear oil in comparision weight wise right? Also common sense tells me that this would be cross contamination using the bottle that starts with g070 and the bottle with g055. Someone who's been through this before please chime in...i do not want to put the wrong oil in my mk3 tdi tranny. Thanks
 
Top