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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old January 5th, 2008, 17:04   #1
Ksf
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Default BEW serpentine belt replacement - how to

How to replace your BEW or PD TDI serpentine belt:

Tools needed: 16mm open face wrench & tensioner locking pin.
Serpentine belt for BEW is different from ALH so be careful that you get the right part.
Done on my 04 Bora from the top only!

Steps
1) Open hood
2) Where indicated by red arrows, unclip the fuel lines so they can freely move. The 16mm wrench will go where the yellow arrow is pointing to.





I took a few pictures before and afterwards. This is where the fuel lines need to be unclipped. You need to do this so to allow free movement of the wrench as you move the tensioner to where you can lock it.



Again, the red arrows point to the fuel lines that need to be unclipped. The yellow arrow is where the 16mm wrench goes. You will pull the wrench with your hand passing underneath the fuel lines.



3) Using the 16mm wrench mate it to the top notch on the tensioner (use the pathway already indicated by the yellow arrows)



4) Ready your tensioner lock pin



5) And pull on the wrench until you lock the tensioner (yes, I used an Allen key)
6) Found to be the easiest to remove the serpentine belt from around the alternator pulley first, by pulling it to the left, next do the AC pulley and then the power steering pump pulley.
7) Now reach down with one hand and separate the belt from the engine pulley (look first and then reach down with which ever hand is best for you, with the other use it to control tension on the loose part of the belt). Taking of your watch comes in handy.


8) With the new belt, unfold it from the packaging and find the largest loop. Guide this loop down around the engine pulley. ***Make sure you do not twist the belt***. Once it is around the engine pulley, guide the belt around the steering wheel pump pulley. You will need to use both hands at this point, left hand holding and guiding the belt around steering wheel pump pulley and the right hand coming in from the front (see next picture) holding the belt at the bottom most to the AC pulley. Guide the belt up around the topside of the AC pulley and then partially hook it around the Alternator pulley.
9) ***Now check your work***. Make sure that the belt is properly seated on all pulleys (except the alternator). Once satisfied that all is in order squeeze the belt completely over the alternator pulley.
10) Using the 16mm wrench again unlock the tensioner and slowly allow it to reapply tension to the belt.
11) Remove all tools from engine compartment and test your work (get in car)
12) Return the two fuel lines to under the plastic clip
13) Close hood

This took me 20 minutes to do. I’m not mechanically inclined but I did my R&D before trying.

This is the front side view of the steering pump, AC and top (blurry) alternator. You can see there is a lot of space.




Reference:
BEW belt (different from ALH) as I was not able to find a drawing/schematic here is a side view picture of what and how you will find.


Well I was finally able to find a real true side view of the alternator belt and how it is routed. Yes this is from a gas 1.8T and not a diesel sipping sibling but I do have the permission from the owner to post it here and it does explain nicely how the belt is laid out. Positions of the main pulley, alternator pulley, PS pulley, AC pulley and belt tensioner are clearly viewable. Even the locking pin holes used to lock the tensioner can be seen.

(more pictures = better understanding. ie nothing is lost in the translation)

-30-
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Glad this is not like 55nm NPN material because being able to touch it is very satisfying....
05 Tora (T=B)

Last edited by Ksf; June 20th, 2009 at 19:25.
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Old January 8th, 2008, 21:08   #2
whitedog
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It's always nice to have these how-to's around. It may seem simple to some, but I feel that they can help folks that are hesitant to dive in without knowing what they are getting into.

Thanks.
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Old January 9th, 2008, 04:59   #3
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Especially the part about locking the adjuster pulley in place to put the new belt on. That's not apparant from looking at the car. The ALH certainly is not that way! Nice pictures. Thanks.

--Nate
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Old January 9th, 2008, 11:27   #4
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Nicely Done!
It's posts like this that make this place so VERY VERY helpful.
Again nicely done!
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Old February 9th, 2008, 16:46   #5
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Thumbs up Awesome!

You saved me a trip to that tight place between the car and the ground. Took me 20 min and only a couple scratches (big hands aren't made for tiny car work).

You rock!
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Old February 26th, 2008, 17:49   #6
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Hi AstroEng,
It makes me very happy to know that my post has helped someone!
(I did a happy dance until my kids saw me)
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Old June 20th, 2009, 10:28   #7
southcarolinastephen
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Great post with how to secure the tensioner while changing the belt. Not only did I change the belt with no problems, but I also changed my alternator with the help of TDIClub.com. All this work done in less than 2 hours! Saved at least $275.
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Old July 1st, 2009, 17:05   #8
gwp
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Thank You for the post it confirmed what I only thought but was not sure was the way to go on this project. I feel much better now to go forward and save the $90.00 labor dealer quoted to do the instalation of belt
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Old February 20th, 2010, 11:13   #9
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Same install for bew golf?
Seems tight when trying to fit around engine pulley.
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Old February 20th, 2010, 14:07   #10
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Hi BIOWERK,
I believe that it is the same for all BEW engines but having said that check first that you have the correct part (not sure if the Wagon/Jetta is the same for the Golf - maybe you can confirm this). The installation will be snug but so long as the tensioner is not applying tension to the belt you will have enough space to slip the belt over the pulleys one pulley at a time. And the new belt will not have stretched yet as the old one has after being under tension for so many years. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Ksf
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Last edited by Ksf; February 20th, 2010 at 14:16.
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Old February 20th, 2010, 15:16   #11
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GREAT POST Ksf!!!
Helped quite a bit. The new belt was a bit snug but it slipped on with some effort. Also, quarters were a bit tight getting belt around pulleys but all seems well.
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Old February 21st, 2010, 13:30   #12
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Had to replace my alternator pulley recently- took 5 minutes. Replacing the serpentine belt took 2 hours!! What a PITA! Never knew about the locking pin trick. I bet that makes things MUCH easier.
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Old February 21st, 2010, 16:10   #13
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"Never knew about the locking pin trick."

This is why I love this list! I did not know, either, but was lucky enough to read about it beforehand. I used a 12 penny nail.

--Nate
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Old August 1st, 2010, 03:26   #14
pogo765
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Default Tensioner Pin Hole

Where is the Tensioner locking pin hole .... How far back do you have to pull the tensioner before you see it? I know it's there but I can't see it.
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Old August 1st, 2010, 03:32   #15
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I can't his pictures, so I can't see the pin hole location. Anyone got a picture of this location?
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