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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old March 1st, 2018, 10:03   #736
hypno
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: NM
Default still won't start

It has been a full year since I have bee
n unable to start my 2004 VW New beetle 1.9 tdi. I purchased the wag scan software and the only engine codes that the soft ware bring up are a couple of short to ground codes. I have tried every thing thai I know of with no success. Yesterday I decided to use an OBDI scanner and the following codes popped up,

1. 0216 - injection timing control circuit malfunction
2. 0228 - pedal position sensor/switch C circuit high input
3. 0245 - Turbo/sup Wastegate solenoid A low
4. 0403 - EGR flow circuit malfunction.

Vag codes are:
16612 - throttle pedal position sensor (G79) p0228
19561 - valve for intake manifold flap (N239)
16629 - solenoid valve for boost pressure control (N75)
17849 - EGR valve (P1141) open circuit or short to ground
16600 - Commencement of injection valve (N108) p0216 circuit malfunction

Ok anybody, any ideas as to where I begin. Any help will be appreciated.
agapitot@hotmail.com
Thanks
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Old March 1st, 2018, 11:43   #737
BobnOH
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Location: central Ohio
Fuel Economy: 50/45/35
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bad fuses or bad wiring
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Old March 1st, 2018, 13:16   #738
whitedog
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Location: Bend, Oregon
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By wag scan, do you mean VAG COM?

Also, which engine are you working on? Is it an ALH with an injection pump on the engine and steel lines going to the injectors or is it a BEW ?
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Old March 1st, 2018, 16:31   #739
hypno
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ALH VAG . Com
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Old March 1st, 2018, 19:34   #740
whitedog
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Charge the battery fully, write down the codes then clear them and it give another try. See what comes back.

Tell us about why it was parked. Did it die? Did you do any testing then? What were the conditions when it was last running?

Right now the only thing we know is that it won't start and it has some codes - we don't know anything about when it stopped running. Maybe you have already posted about it and if so it would be nice if you could link us to a previous post.

We're really flying blind tight now.
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Old March 1st, 2018, 19:44   #741
hypno
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will give all info on next post. veh just wouldnt stare one day weather in NM isnt cold enough to make glo plugs problemmatic, veh turns over but will not start. has fuel at all injectors. have changed out109
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Old March 1st, 2018, 21:18   #742
hypno
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Vehicle was running great and suddenly would not start. Have followed all suggested tips, checked anti shudder valve, fuel injectors, New battery changed out th 109 relay . Used a jumper from battery to the fuel shutoff valve . Checked all fuses .
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 05:48   #743
whitedog
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Was it running then died and would not start, or you shut it down one day and it wouldn't start?

If you look at the no start thread, which situation fits yours the best?
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 06:38   #744
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Checked wiring diagram and all of those listed components go back through fuse S234 (10a #34) which is fed by relay J317 (109). Note: fuses S232 and S243 are also fed by J317 (S243 feeds clutch and one side of brake switch and coolant glow plugs, S232 feeds ECM and quantity adjuster). Power to J317 is from stud 500 (big red cable bolted to bottom of fuse/relay panel under dash) and should be marked as "30". ECM grounds the relay. S229 provides ignition power to ECM to wake up.

I would work back from fuse S234 - see if 12V is getting from fuse to each component. Also power from that fuse goes through T6 (brown bulk head connector behind cluster). It is possible some corrosion is in that connection.

Jason
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Old March 16th, 2018, 14:45   #745
murf1956
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Fuel Economy: 35 40
Default 2006 TDI new beetle wont start-suspect the battery is dead

Suspect dead battery. Roadside assistant guy could not help me. I think my lights ere on all night. I went to the library and checked out 3 manuals one is chiltons vw new beetle repair years 1998-2005 I also got Bentley Publishers service manual for 2005 and 2006 includes 1.9L TDI the 3rd book is European electrical systems also Bentley publishers by author is Bob Seigle. I am liking through them now. Seems I have to be careful taking battery out due to the anti theft radio and possible bad remote starter for keyless. I think I can use a different power source to keep juice during the exchange.

Last edited by murf1956; March 16th, 2018 at 14:49. Reason: Bad spelling
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Old March 17th, 2018, 08:55   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murf1956 View Post
Suspect dead battery. Roadside assistant guy could not help me.
Did he try jump starting it?
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Old March 24th, 2018, 10:30   #747
UhOh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypno View Post
Vehicle was running great and suddenly would not start. Have followed all suggested tips, checked anti shudder valve, fuel injectors, New battery changed out th 109 relay . Used a jumper from battery to the fuel shutoff valve . Checked all fuses .
Check this and that but don't say HOW/METHOD. One can get fuel out the injectors but not get F-U-E-L sufficient to start. Please qualify your observations/conclusions.

Fuel
Timing
Air

Everything else can be dead to the world but if you have those three elements in proper play the engine has no other option than to run (exception would be that the compression is totally trashed, but unless we're missing some part of the story here it's not likely an engine's compression can decay on its own, from just sitting). SO....

ONE of those THREE things is insufficient. "Air" is easy- ASV open? "Fuel" is sufficient if it's spurting from a loosened injector top with the line loosened while cranking. "Timing" can only be corrupted via a mechanical "event" (anyone near the car during an "event" will KNOW of the event), sticking internals, though here the engine should still attempt to fire up (general timing is OK, but fuel delivery is a bit uncoordinated). Generally only one thing is being responsible (if everything had been OK), so one only needs to find the ONE thing.

In no "'event" then the most likely suspect is fueling. Treat it like you have air in the fuel lines. If you have a lot it will take a lot of patience to get it our; it will seems like it's not really air because one thinks that the air "should be out by now!" but it won't be. At some point, allowing the started to cool down and the battery to be sufficiently recharged, the engine will have to make some effort at ignition; if that happens then you just keep on with the air purge. IF you suspect bad fuel (or gelling) then use a separate fuel contained to feed your IP (and return lines).

I've had instances in which I would SWEAR that there was no way I could have air in the lines, that with all the efforts at bleeding the engine MUST sputter, BUT not so. Because there was no other reason I could think of I kept on bleeding (and cussing). And lo and behold the engine would FINALLY cough to life.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 14:58   #748
hypno
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Ok I'm back after a long while. I am sorry but at 81 knuckle busting takes its toll. I posted that I had a 2004 vw 1.9 t do beetle. After researching I found it was actually a 2003 VW Beetle 1.9 tdi with a manual transmission. Since I last postedthe vehicle has refused to start. Mileage is 200k, it did have timing belt and water pump replaced at 141k miles. I have fuel at all injectors , replaced 109,checked all fuses two which are located near the 109. Vehicle turns over but will not start.
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Old May 18th, 2018, 09:04   #749
BobnOH
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Simple interweb stuff- Air could be restricted or a big pipe could be loose. Diesel engines do need a strong battery (try jump start if it's low). Verify timing belt did not break or jump. etc.
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Old May 18th, 2018, 09:36   #750
Tdijarhead
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Continuing on with what Bob said, the Beetle has a snorkel leading to the air box, make sure a critter family hasn't taken up residence there and plugged the air supply.
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