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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old March 9th, 2008, 09:15   #46
whitedog
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I just had someone contact me from France and he told me that his PD Engine was a no-start and he tracked it down to the EGR valve stuck open. This is an odd one, but is easy to check. Three allen head cap srews and the EGR valve slides out of the intake manifold. Be careful though since if the EGR is sticking open, the intake is carboned up and removing the EGR can knock loose bits and pieces into the intake manifold.
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Old March 9th, 2008, 12:08   #47
roadhard1960
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Stuck anti-shudder on my 2003. Thanks for the answer/idea. Time to oil as it is squeeking when moved by hand. Only 30,000 miles on that assembly as it was recently replaced.
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Old March 10th, 2008, 16:56   #48
dr.diesle
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keep in mind the pd egr is completly different than the one on your alh motor ussually the pds dont have early egr failure but the alh oh yes ....
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Old March 13th, 2008, 10:17   #49
whitedog
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Default Another cause of NSC

I just found this in my PM box:

On the 99.5 and earlier TDIs the alarm system is tied in with the starter. If the alarm is going off it disables the start position on the ignition key. If the alarm computer (or CCM on a 99.5 or 98-99 new beetle) fails totally this will present a no crank condition.

This is all of the information I have on it, so I don't know how to go about troubleshooting this. Maybe VAG-COM can read this?
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Old March 14th, 2008, 21:10   #50
jetdiknight
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WHitedog:

Great informational thread...

I have a question.... MY 2002 jetta tdi has a race pipe..so it does not have antishudder valve.. The battery was 6 years old, and I recently had some trouble starting. Fuel filter changed 1 month ago.... Starting became more and more difficult... I cranked , waited only 5-10 seconds...cranked again..and each time cranked for 5 seconds...and finally it started. Once it starts...it runs fine. But still needs 3 or 4 intervals of 5 second tries before it starts.

I changed the battery...but still having hard starts. There is a streaming of bubbbles from the fuel filter to injection pump when car is running... When engine is off.....the clear fuel line going from fuel filter to injection pump has not a bubble of air...but over 2.5 inches of air in the lines, with no fuel until the lines point down towards the injection pump...

So question : IS there an air leak into the fuel lines ? The bottom of filter is shut....where can it be ? Changed fuel filter one month ago...but no leaks then.....? COuld the large air space in the clear line be normal ? Or is it the cause of the hard starting .? OR do I need a new starter due to the long cranking and short intervals between cranks ??


Any help would be appreciated...
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Old March 14th, 2008, 21:24   #51
whitedog
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That's too much air. It is normal to be able to look closely and see some small air bubbles when running and it's normal to see a thumbnail size bubble when shut off, but 2.5 inches is too much. Check your inter-injector bleed lines. If they are hard, replace them all.

From easiest to hardest Injection pump leaks:

Top cover seal. You need a special tool to remove the cover, but it's straight-forward and there are no "gotchas".

Center seal, below the top cover. It's simple, but that cover has to be put back in the exact right spot or your fuel Injection Quantity will be effected, even to the point of a no-start.

Head seal. Care has to be taken to replace this seal and special instructions and special "tools" are needed, but many people have had success. But there are Gurus that won't touch that seal. Proceed at your own risk.

Drive shaft seal. This one requires a pump shop to replace. The reason is that the pump drive hub is on a shaft with no keyway. This means that the drive hub HAS to be put on in the EXACT right spot for the timing pin to be accurate. I don't know how a pump shop does this, so it's important that it's done by someone that actually knows what they are talking about.
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Old April 7th, 2008, 11:47   #52
anahata
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Wow! Added to Subscriptions!!
Thanks
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Old May 6th, 2008, 20:40   #53
whitedog
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Default Key switches

Here is something I received today.

I was reading your "troubleshooting a car that won't start post" and noticed your note about the key-switches in "older" (late 90's) Passats and Jettas.
There was a recall on the 96-97 Passat TDIs that I responded to, and the local dealer (finally!) got and installed a new keyswitch in my 96 Passat. The original problem mentioned in the recall notice was the switch got too hot!
Well, the new switch gets just as hot; some fix!! It has not failed tho. The key switch in the 2000 Jetta (148K miles) suffers from the same problem, but so far we've not gotten a recall on IT! Go figure?

I like to add these things here just so some of this information can be consolidated.

Thanks, Warthog
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Old May 9th, 2008, 02:59   #54
cville6
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Default Any Ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitedog
I just found this in my PM box:

On the 99.5 and earlier TDIs the alarm system is tied in with the starter. If the alarm is going off it disables the start position on the ignition key. If the alarm computer (or CCM on a 99.5 or 98-99 new beetle) fails totally this will present a no crank condition.

This is all of the information I have on it, so I don't know how to go about troubleshooting this. Maybe VAG-COM can read this?
Does anyone know anything about the alarm systems in a 1999.5 Jetta? This problem sounds like my issue right now.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 18:51   #55
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Hello in TDi land. I am in dire need of some help. I'll start at the begining. About 5 weeks ago I was happily traveling to Fresno with a friend and the engine sucked a valve at 70 mph. Needless to say this caused a catostphic failure and destroyed the engine. I decided to replace the engine with a long block and also perform the auto/manual swap of the tranny after reading the "how to kill an auto wabbit" post.
The engine and tranny went in rather easily(with the help of my mechanic friend Mike). Heres my trouble. Engine won't start. After consulting the repair manual and this website I think I know what the trouble is but not quite sure. On key on I don't get the 12vdc at the fuel cutoff solenoid. I went into Vag Com and under "DRIVE TRAIN" - "ENGINE" -"FAULT CODES" there were 3 faults listed. G80, G81, and I can't remember the last. Should have written them down. Cleared the faults. Suddenly the 12vdc was at the fuel cutoff solenoid. I thought there might be some sort of inhibit function in the ECU. Tried to start again and no go. Cranks but no start. All lights good on dash. It was late and I deciced to call it a day and start fresh the next day which is today. Today the 12vdc is missing again. No faults in ECU. Thought maybe I bent 1 of the pins in the ECU. Everything looks ok. I forgot 1 thing, I did hook the gen. wire to ground and when I hooked up the battery the 110 amp fuse blew. Did I maybe fry the ECU by doing this? The voltage at the solenoid is 0vdc when connected and 8.9vdc when not connected. Applying 12vdc to the solenoid makes it open and I primed the pump. Is there a way to know if I fried the ECU. It does communicate with Vag Com. I know this is kind of long just trying to get all the info in. Any help would be greatly apperciated. Thanks in advance to all for this forum. Dave

Last edited by bagger; May 24th, 2008 at 18:55.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 19:25   #56
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Sorry. no solid information except that there is only power at the shut off solenoid for a limited amount of time. After that time (a few seconds) you won't see power there.

Do you have access to VAG COM or a good scan tool?
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Old May 24th, 2008, 19:37   #57
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Yes I have Vag Com
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Old May 24th, 2008, 19:48   #58
whitedog
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D;oh. You said you had VAGCOM. My bad...

ANyway, can you look at all of the measuing blocks with VAGCOM? they may indicate Zero or whatever but as long as you can hook up and read things, your ECU should be good.

Double check all of your electrical connections, especially the one going to the #3 injector.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 22:02   #59
bagger
 
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Here's an update. I checked the voltage and by the time I get out of the car and check its gone. So I set it up to view as I turn the key and the voltage is there for about 3 or 4 seconds just as you said. Thanks for the info. I will continue to read on and troubleshoot further.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 22:50   #60
nicklockard
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Immobilizer issue?

The cluster, harness(?), and ECU are married together by the immobilizer in 2000 and newer Tdi's. Did you change ECU's when you changed longblocks?

I know the cluster and ECU are married...not sure about harness though.

Edit: there are some very knowledgeable Tdi gurus that hang out on the Tdi Club Chat group (see top of page.)

I suggest you join chat and see if MOGolf or another mechanic can help you with this issue.
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