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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old January 4th, 2008, 09:11   #16
camelman
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PharoahTDI, thanks for the post.

Everyone, please feel free to add useful information to this thread. I'm sure we will continue to see plenty of failures on these trannys, but at least it looks like we have some options on making them last a little longer.

I found an interesting write-up on these trannys with some good info on points of failure. Warning though, the hard parts cost to remedy some of these failures may not be worth it in the long run. The information is still pretty interesting though.
This guy also lists a reason for the poor shifting when warm. This just adds credence to the concept of installing a good tranny cooler when your tranny starts to act up to buy you some more life.

http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=3465582

By the way, I can't find a decent post on how to reset the fuzzy logic on these trannys. Can someone post it? I'm interested in both the standard reset, and the "sport" reset. Preferably without the use of Vag-Com.

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Old January 4th, 2008, 16:35   #17
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That's good information. Thanks.

With regard to the trans cooler: There is already a transmission cooler that interfaces with engine coolant. An additional cooler (and lower fluid temperatures) may help the 01M last, but I suspect that unless the new cooler is stand alone, and the OEM cooler is removed, you may be fighting the cooling system components that are trying to keep coolant temp relatively constant.
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Old January 6th, 2008, 09:48   #18
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Does anyone know where I could get an explanation of powerflow or exploded view of an 01M? I have looked through the transmission section in my Bently manual. There appears to be no technical information on the internal workings of the transmission.
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Old January 10th, 2008, 11:33   #19
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QSK, I don't have any info on that.

3000 mile update:
The tranny is still working fine. The hard 2-3 shift is back when the tranny is warmed up, but it is much better than it was before the valve body swap. All other gear changes are normal, and the first gear false neutral is gone.
The valve body swap certainly seems to have cleared up the first gear false neutral, and to have somewhat mitigated the harsh shifts.

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Old January 10th, 2008, 18:34   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelman
By the way, I can't find a decent post on how to reset the fuzzy logic on these trannys. Can someone post it? I'm interested in both the standard reset, and the "sport" reset. Preferably without the use of Vag-Com.

Camelman
The only reset available without VAG-COM is to turn the key to 'on' but do not start the car. Next press the go pedal to the floor for at least 3 seconds. Release the pedal. Turn the key off.

This has reset the 'fuzzy logic'. It starts off with 'sport' mode settings and adapts to lesser depending on your driving.

Using VAG-COM you can change the module coding from the adaptive setting (00000) to 'economy mode' (00011) or 'sport mode' (00012). For best results, use VAG-COM to access 'basic settings' in the TCM, read '000' group, then exit the controller.

For the harsh shifting, I recommend making sure the multi-wire connector on top of the transmission is fully seated. You might disconnect and reconnect it. Also check the transmission fluid level. This will require the use of tool that can access the transmssion fluid temperature reading in the TCM. With the car idling, fluid should just begin to drip out of the drain hole when the reading reaches about 30 C. If overfilled let it drain out until just dripping at that temperature.

Last edited by MOGolf; January 12th, 2008 at 13:36.
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Old January 12th, 2008, 08:30   #21
dhollist
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Default Correction to fill procedure

This should read "drain hole" not "fill hole". There is a red plastic sleeve inside the drain hole that sets the proper height of oil in the pan. It is essential that the car is parked on a level surface and the temperature is correct as indicated below.

So the corrected sentence is:
"With the car idling, fluid should just begin to drip out of the drain hole when the reading reaches about 30 C."

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOGolf
The only reset available without VAG-COM is to turn the key to 'on' but do not start the car. Next press the go pedal to the floor for at least 3 seconds. Release the pedal. Turn the key off.

This has reset the 'fuzzy logic'. It starts off with 'sport' mode settings and adapts to lesser depending on your driving.

Using VAG-COM you can change the module coding from the adaptive setting (00000) to 'economy mode' (00011) or 'sport mode' (00012). For best results, use VAG-COM to access 'basic settings' in the TCM, read '000' group, then exit the controller.

For the harsh shifting, I recommend making sure the multi-wire connector on top of the transmission is fully seated. You might disconnect and reconnect it. Also check the transmission fluid level. This will require the use of tool that can access the transmssion fluid temperature reading in the TCM. With the car idling, fluid should just begin to drip out of the fill hole when the reading reaches about 30 C. If overfilled let it drain out until just dripping at that temperature.
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Old January 12th, 2008, 09:07   #22
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Default Low Line Pressure and/or Soft Shifts

ATRA Technical Bulletin #623 (Google it) may be helpful for those experiencing soft shifts. Apparently the manual valve inside the transmission can become misadjusted (hence the reference to using threadlocker after correctly adjusting it)


Last edited by dhollist; March 26th, 2010 at 01:40.
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Old January 12th, 2008, 13:37   #23
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Yes, drain hole. Fixed the post. Brain needed a fluid check. It slipped.
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Old January 19th, 2008, 07:39   #24
dhollist
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Default New valve body breathes new life into near-dead 01M

At Camelman's suggestion I bought a remanufactured valve body from Central Valve Bodies (website or eBay) and installed it last weekend. The problem with our 01M transmission was that it would barely move the car in reverse. Once warm, we would have to rev the engine to ~2000 rpm to get any sort of reverse gear engagement, and even then there was a lot of slippage so the car would barely move. Even before the reverse problem, this transmission always felt "sloppy" with delayed engagements, false neutrals between 2-3 and 3-4, etc. A lot of online research led me to believe that it was worth trying a valve body swap before committing to a new transmission. Camelman's positive experience with a reconditioned valve body from Central Valve Bodies was instrumental in my decision to give this a try. Donny from CVB is awesome, and gave me several tips about setting the manual valve correctly when installing the new valve body.

I also replaced the ATF, filter, and pan gasket with genuine VW parts and fluid. I can't imagine reusing any of those things or using cheapo stuff from the local parts store when any kind of problem means a $5000 transmission goes bang. After adding 3 liters of ATF, I performed a restored basic settings (key on, accelerator pedal hard to the floor for 5 seconds, release accelerator, key off), started the engine, slowly cycled the transmission through all of the shifter positions, then let the engine idle with the trans. in park until the temp came up to 35deg. C as shown in VAG-COM block 005. Then I removed the drain plug (which I had left finger tight per drivbiwire's excellent ATF change instructions) and added ATF until it started running out the drain hole. Once it stopped running out, I installed and tightened the drain plug. Be sure to use a good torque wrench for the drain plug and trans. pan bolt torques because they strip easily.

Finally, time to take it for a test drive! I was encouraged initially, because reverse gear engaged pretty quickly and actually made the car move. Remember, before surgery the car would barely move in reverse without revving the engine. But now the already warm transmission was actually moving the car just off idle. WOOHOO! So down the road I went, with firm forward gear engagements. I got nervous a few times as the 2-3 shifts sometimes didn't seem 100% right, with a slight false neutral and the engine revving between gears. I gritted my teeth and hopped on the expressway, hoping that a little bid of driving at various speeds would help the adaptive shift strategy to 'figure things out'. Sure enough, after 10 or so miles of highway speed driving with the occasional (driver induced, pedal to the floor) kickdown, I got off the highway and did some stop-and-go driving, and the 2-3 shift problem had gone away. I also still had reverse with ATF temps in the 85-90deg. C region.

So far we've probably put 300-500 miles on it, and other than the first 5-10 miles, the shifting has been firmer/crisper/quicker than we ever experienced in this car or any other VW with an 01M transmission. I'd highly recommend a valve body, ATF, and filter change before throwing in the towel and installing a new transmission or doing a auto->manual conversion. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the great tip Camelman! And thanks for the additional information you sent me Chinaloy! Finally, thank you Drivbiwire for the excellent how-to on changing the ATF!

Dave


Quote:
Originally Posted by camelman
I bought my valve body for ~$330. The install was very straight forward, and new solenoids are included.
There were only two sticky points I ran across. The old solenoids would not let go of the wiring harness clips, so I just snipped the solenoid plugs with some wire snips to unhook the wiring harness.
The second thing was the shift linkage. I would recommend taking it off both the valve body and the shift linkage assy, then install the new valve body, then reattach the shift linkage. The shift linkage assembly has a flexible retainer that can be bent out of the way for removal and install, then bent back in place afterwards. You'll see what I mean if you dig around in there.
I reused the old wiring harness.

I did find a few small pieces of metal in my transmission pan when I changed the fluid a while back, but nothing that looked any worse than other trannys I've pulled apart. It doesn't seem to be causing a problem now though, and there were no new pieces in there when I changed the valve body today. We'll see how it goes.

Be careful of one of some of the guys on eBay. From what I found, there were a few selling valve bodys with new soleniods for ~$100. However, they raised their rates when the saw the guys who were actually rebuilding the valve bodys and performing the Sonnex mods for ~$350. So, do your research before you buy. The business I listed in my first post seemed to be reliable.

Let me know if you decide to do this. I'd be interested in how it goes.

By the way, is it better to do this before the tranny starts acting up, or afterwards? Just something to think about.

Camelman
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Old January 19th, 2008, 15:23   #25
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dhollist,

Awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you. Please post every couple thousand miles on how it is doing.

Camelman
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Old January 21st, 2008, 08:14   #26
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I will be watching this thread with great interest!
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Old January 28th, 2008, 14:30   #27
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Default Hardness connector

Does anyone know where I can purchase connector for the hardness wire?
there are 7 connectors from the hardness cable to the solenoids.
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Old January 28th, 2008, 18:42   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelman
dhollist,

Awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you. Please post every couple thousand miles on how it is doing.

Camelman
Well, it would appear that the fix was short lived. The problem with reverse engagement came back, so the car is at the local dealer for repair since we can't continue without reliable transportation. I'll post again after we get the prognosis from the dealer.
Dave
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Old January 28th, 2008, 19:05   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhollist
Well, it would appear that the fix was short lived. The problem with reverse engagement came back, so the car is at the local dealer for repair since we can't continue without reliable transportation. I'll post again after we get the prognosis from the dealer.
Dave
I have long since lost count how many times I have seen this same scenario play out. Sorry it did not 'stay fixed' but they rarely do.
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Old January 28th, 2008, 19:07   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhollist
Well, it would appear that the fix was short lived. The problem with reverse engagement came back, so the car is at the local dealer for repair since we can't continue without reliable transportation. I'll post again after we get the prognosis from the dealer.
Dave
Good ol Howard Cooper I'm assuming?
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