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Old May 29th, 2007, 22:54   #1
ARMY
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Default Error P0102 Maf Sensor - How to test MAF to see if it is working?

Hey guys,
I have a P0102 error, MAF sensor, low air input /circuit something or other.
Air filter is not bad, I figure, maybe some contaminent on the MAF, which I will be cleaning later on, but I am curious, if I wanna run a test on the MAF to see if it is working right, how do I do it? My mech friend asked me to find out if there are certain specs on testing like at 70 degrees some much wattage or resistance etc etc... Im not mechanically inclined so it was semi latin to me. But he would like ot test the MAF to rule it in or out. Other thoguh might be a seal going at intercooler/turbo allowing a little oil to enter the air, not sure either. Lite dusting in tube, but not sure if that was a 1 time thing or ongoing.
please help!

I had my accuator replaced, about 3 months prior to the new issue. the symptoms are much the same. low power, like the turbo isnt running. I disconnected the MAF, minor improvment, atleat its consistant, before on occassion it would get a little boggy for a few sec. I dont know if Im in Limp Mode or what, but the P0102 error leads me to believe MAF or EGR is sticky.
Any help? Something I can give to my diesel mech friend to look into ??
Thanks!
Gary
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Last edited by ARMY; May 29th, 2007 at 23:00.
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Old May 29th, 2007, 23:37   #2
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Gary simple test for the MAF is unplug it again. If it runs better then replace the MAF.
You can tell if you are getting an overboost or going into Limp mode because the power will return instantly when you cycle the ignition.
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Old May 30th, 2007, 04:37   #3
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I have unplugged and replugged a few times not any huge difference.
We wiped the code and it came back.
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Old May 30th, 2007, 05:44   #4
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Your intake may also be clogged, when mine was clogged unplugging the maf made no difference even though it was bad. Once I cleaned the intake, unplugging the maf made a huge difference
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Old May 30th, 2007, 08:14   #5
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Three tests for the MAF.

First one you've done (unplug etc).
Second, with a warm engine, sitting in your driveway, put the fuel request pedal ("gas pedal") to the floor and see if the engine gets to 5100 rpms. It should get quite close, but if it stops at 4800 or less, the MAF is most likely bad.

Third, get a VagCom, and do a MAF run while logging MAF requested and MAF actual. Find a safe stretch of straight road, and run it from 2-4000 rpms with the pedal to the floor, shift, do it again in third, and if you have space and a reasonably legal environment, do it in fourth. In each of these runs, requested should be at 850, and you should see spikes of about 1000 in the actual. If actual <850, bad MAF. This is the best test, but other things could cause issues such as clogged intake or something wrong with the boost system throwing you into "limp" mode.

Good luck!
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Old May 30th, 2007, 08:20   #6
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When you do the pedal to the floor test also log throttle position, MAP specified and MAP actual. The pedal to the floor aka 100% throttle eliminates adaptation. Adding MAP to the log gives you turbocharger performance: low airflow reported by MAF with no turbocharger pressure issues points to air intake issue such as clogged intake or airfilter.

After you log it having the throttle position allows you to filter out all partial throttle data and only look at the 100% data. Oh repeat the 2000-4200 rpm test 3 or 4 times. I like third gear or higher as you need the system to sense a load to get good results.
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Old May 30th, 2007, 16:05   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curious Chris
When you do the pedal to the floor test also log throttle position, MAP specified and MAP actual. The pedal to the floor aka 100% throttle eliminates adaptation. Adding MAP to the log gives you turbocharger performance: low airflow reported by MAF with no turbocharger pressure issues points to air intake issue such as clogged intake or airfilter.

After you log it having the throttle position allows you to filter out all partial throttle data and only look at the 100% data. Oh repeat the 2000-4200 rpm test 3 or 4 times. I like third gear or higher as you need the system to sense a load to get good results.
Okay, will this proceedure vary at all with an Automatic?
I have a 2002 jetta tdi Automatic with 310,000 on the odom.
Thanks!
gary
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Old May 30th, 2007, 16:12   #8
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You may have to manually shift if the trannie doesn't want you to go to 4K, but should be tested the same way. Remember, don't just get to 4K, but get there with the foot planted on the floorboard squishing the pedal.
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Old May 30th, 2007, 17:53   #9
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Well, on my car the "unplug MAFs" routine produced no change whatsoever - the car still ran extremely poorly... the "floor the accelerator pedal" test also didn't show anything... car went to over 5100 rpm... watching the Vag-Com data of course showed no change in "actual" whatsoever - no matter the speed or the accelerator position...

Changed the MAFs, and everything's back to normal... The original MAFs sure died in a hurry!!! Car was working just fine and... suddenly, no power (and a CEL)...

Yuri.

Last edited by ymz; May 31st, 2007 at 07:41.
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Old May 30th, 2007, 21:05   #10
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So you recommend the MAF run?
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Old May 31st, 2007, 07:06   #11
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Well, unplugged was slightly better, and more consistant power.
I ran in 1st easily to 5200 (on automatic first gear)
Wingnut recomends a MAF change, and he's very solid on this, and seems thats what this thread is suggesting to, with those outcomes, so, Ill look into that, and let yas know!
Gary
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Old May 31st, 2007, 07:07   #12
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Yuri,
Are you saying after y ou changed the MAF< the new one died fast too?
Gary

Quote:
Originally Posted by ymz
Well, on my car the "unplug MAFs" routine produced no change whatsoever - the car still ran extremely poorly... the "floor the accelerator pedal" test also didn't show anything... car went to over 5100 rpm... watching the Vag-Com data of course showed no change in "actual" whatsoever - no matter the speed or the accelerator position...

Changed the MAFs, and everything's back to normal... It sure died in a hurry!!! Car was working just fine and... suddenly, no power (and a CEL)...

Yuri.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 07:40   #13
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No... I was saying that the original MAFs died very suddenly - overnight, seemingly... I'll edit the original message to avoid confusion...

Yuri.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 07:49   #14
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Maf 101
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Old May 31st, 2007, 11:46   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bam_bam_dip
Yup, I printed that 101 out, was very good. I was just asking because of the light oil in the air tube before the egr.
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