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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)

Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old March 31st, 2012, 14:52   #12601
Fix_Until_Broke
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Went from this




To this


It's a lot shorter than the OEM one (duh!) and a little tight particularly on the 1-2 and R side. Even with that it's nicer than the stock one by far. It'll break in and loosen up.

My 5 speed one I had for 150k miles and loved it - I was tired of the OEM 6 speed one before 1500 miles

Great product from Diesel Geek!
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Old March 31st, 2012, 15:01   #12602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
It's a lot shorter than the OEM one (duh!) and a little tight particularly on the 1-2 and R side. Even with that it's nicer than the stock one by far. It'll break in and loosen up.

My 5 speed one I had for 150k miles and loved it - I was tired of the OEM 6 speed one before 1500 miles

Great product from Diesel Geek!
I hope you didn't get tired of shifting into 6th before 1500 miles though .

Had a chance to tow with the 6spd yet?
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Old March 31st, 2012, 15:21   #12603
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No - I'm not tired of the right and down shift

I towed my 4x8 trailer with a 4' x 10' x 0.065" sheet of stainless on it 250 miles last weekend and it worked very well. About as light and aerodynamic as it gets so not a big workout. It would pull it in 6th at 60 MPH (1650 RPM), but was not happy with moderate hills so I kept it in 5th (~1975 RPM). Once I got on the 4 lane I could run it in 6th at 70 MPH (~1925 RPM) and it was fine. I got better mileage on that tank (47 MPG) than I did on my break in tank (45 MPG).
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Old March 31st, 2012, 15:35   #12604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
Went from this




To this


It's a lot shorter than the OEM one (duh!) and a little tight particularly on the 1-2 and R side. Even with that it's nicer than the stock one by far. It'll break in and loosen up.

My 5 speed one I had for 150k miles and loved it - I was tired of the OEM 6 speed one before 1500 miles

Great product from Diesel Geek!
I did this last year in my 2011 golf and have lovedbit ever since. I did experience an issue with 1 & 2 so I compensated the adjustment slightly from just setting home position and tightening. Wish it was a tad cheaper though. But yes highly recommended.

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Old March 31st, 2012, 16:10   #12605
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I did this last year in my 2011 golf and have lovedbit ever since. I did experience an issue with 1 & 2 so I compensated the adjustment slightly from just setting home position and tightening. Wish it was a tad cheaper though. But yes highly recommended.

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The adjustment is fine, it's just stiff to push into gear and stiff to pull out of gear wheras 3rd and 4th kind of fall in and fall out - you can feel the springs on the synchro clips as you push past them and it falls into gear. You have to pull it all the way out of 1st and it will almost stay wherever you let go of it on the left side of the pattern - I'm not sure it's the shifter, but it didn't do it with the OEM one.

$200 is a bit high, but it's a high quality piece - the plastic bearing is much improved over the OEM one, all billet aluminum pieces, stainless hardware, spherical bearings on the pivots - this thing will outlast the car. I'm guessing there is not much middle ground from a design/price standpoint. Once you go custom, you go all the way like the DG unit. I'd rather pay $200 for this than $100-$150 for a modified OEM one or one that only shortens side to side.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 16:43   #12606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
The adjustment is fine, it's just stiff to push into gear and stiff to pull out of gear wheras 3rd and 4th kind of fall in and fall out - you can feel the springs on the synchro clips as you push past them and it falls into gear. You have to pull it all the way out of 1st and it will almost stay wherever you let go of it on the left side of the pattern - I'm not sure it's the shifter, but it didn't do it with the OEM one.

$200 is a bit high, but it's a high quality piece - the plastic bearing is much improved over the OEM one, all billet aluminum pieces, stainless hardware, spherical bearings on the pivots - this thing will outlast the car. I'm guessing there is not much middle ground from a design/price standpoint. Once you go custom, you go all the way like the DG unit. I'd rather pay $200 for this than $100-$150 for a modified OEM one or one that only shortens side to side.
I agree it is very high quality. I did not hesitate to buy lol. My issue with adjustment was when I went left it would hit the lock for R in the car before the tranny actually got the 1-2 position. I stalled a few times only to realize I was in third. I wonder if that's your problem too. Try taking the side to side cable and pull a couple threads of slack out of it and retighten. That way when u go left it will push the selector farther down before hitting the lock in the car. I believe that's correct its been awhile since I looked at it. Another test is to put in third and measure left right play then put in 1st and see if its really tight left to right. Hope it helps !

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Old March 31st, 2012, 18:05   #12607
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Originally Posted by jrarno02 View Post
I just filled up for my second 800+ tank in a row, with about 60/40 Hwy/Cty... I go like 58mph everywhere, maybe 60
And THAT's why I'll never turn those kinds of numbers. I like to get where I'm going in a reasonable amount of time.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 19:43   #12608
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Well, lots of little things... Went and changed to MTL in the trans, playing with thermostats...

Took a trip, and I thought that the engine note sounded a little loud. Looks like the cat has came off the exhaust at the rear of the cat. I'm a thousand miles from home... What's the short answer for a fix, and what's a proper fix for longevity? Is it ultimately an issue with the stainless material used for OEM that eventually rots vs what ID Parts has as a replacement downpipe, then a cat... Looking at MPG as my ultimate goal, is there any reason to go over the stock 2"? Didn't come up with much on the search side...
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Old March 31st, 2012, 20:59   #12609
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Short/quick fix is whatever you can do with what you've got. It won't hurt anything while it's broke after the cat.

Long term fix has a lot of options. If it's MPG's and cost only, then repair with standard 2" or 2-1/4" aluminized steel pipe at your local muffler shop. The other end of the spectrum is to go full stainless from a few different vendors for significant $$.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 22:29   #12610
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Ordered a solar battery tender.......

Ive been driving the 85 jetta TD so much the battery in the golf went nearly dead from neglect.
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Old April 1st, 2012, 07:44   #12611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
Short/quick fix is whatever you can do with what you've got. It won't hurt anything while it's broke after the cat.
So, being broke after the cat is good? I think I read something about "bark" and breaking the turbo shaft?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
Long term fix has a lot of options. If it's MPG's and cost only, then repair with standard 2" or 2-1/4" aluminized steel pipe at your local muffler shop. The other end of the spectrum is to go full stainless from a few different vendors for significant $$.
I noticed no talk about replacing the cat?

Probably not a problem in Wisconsin with no inspections on diesels...
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Old April 1st, 2012, 07:51   #12612
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Don't worry about bark or over boost spikes on a stock set up. Just wire up the loose end so it doesn't drop to the pavement until you can slice in a short section of pipe. It's a bit surprising that the stock pipe rusted as it is stainless. An inspection of the whole system would seem prudent.
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Old April 1st, 2012, 08:09   #12613
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What Darkhorse said - you're fine except for the drone on your eardrums. Guys run straight pipes on VNT15's for years and hundreds of thousands of miles without troubles.

Weather you keep or remove your cat or not is up to you. I don't personally run one, however have no problems with those that do or want to for whatever reason.

You might find an independant shop down there who will weld in a pipe quick for $50 or less if you want a quick fix.

Good luck on the rest of your trip.
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Old April 1st, 2012, 09:19   #12614
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I painted the front badge to match the powdercoated rims
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Old April 1st, 2012, 09:20   #12615
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^ let's see the rims
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