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VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old February 28th, 2007, 11:30   #1
LF06VWJTDI
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Post DIY: DSG Transmission scheduled maintenance (40K miles interval)

DIY: DSG (02E) Transmission - 40,000 miles maintenance service
Part I


Introduction

This document is a reconstruction of the entire service procedure that a fellow member, WJDell, performed on my vehicle’s transmission on Feb. 22, 2007.

Credit for all the work and recommendations go to none other than this very bright and knowledgeable gentleman. I have already driven over 1,000 miles since the service was performed and the car is running great.

I strongly advice you to always seek the help of an experienced certified mechanic at your dealer’s service department when you are in need of this type of service.

Should you decide to perform the procedure yourself, however, and use this document as a reference, please be advised that you are doing so at your own risk.

Should you, at any time, feel uncomfortable with any of the steps involved in the procedure, please stop immediately and consult a professional.


The Adobe Portable Document Format version of the document is available here: http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/DSG_40K_Service.pdf


Part I – Getting your vehicle ready for DSG transmission service


What you will need:
    • 6 liters of Direct Shift Gearbox Oil. Part # G 052 182 A2.


    • 1 Direct Shift Gearbox Filter. Part # 02E 305 051 B.

    • 1 Gasket. Part # N 043 809 2.

    • 1 Seal. Part # N 910 845 01.

    • VAS 6262 tool




The cost for all of these parts (excluding the VAS6262) is in the $120-$150 range. Several online vendors (ECS Tuning, WorldImpex, etc) do sell the complete kit, which does not include the VAS tool, for a price similar to the aforementioned one.

The VAS 6262 is available at specialized stores and resellers of OEM maintenance parts. This site offers it for just under $95: http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm




General recommendations
    • If possible, the procedure should be performed while the engine is still hot. That will ensure the extraction of the most quantity of transmission fluid, due to its increased fluidity when heated.
    • In order to make this documentation more readable, pictures were scaled to thumbnails. You can, at any given time, click the thumbnail to see the full-sized picture. (NOTE: This does not apply to the post in TDICLUB.Com)
Part II follows
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'06 Jetta TDI Sport Edition Pkg2/DSG.
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'06 Jetta 2.0T Pkg2/DSG.
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Last edited by LF06VWJTDI; April 22nd, 2008 at 11:09.
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Old February 28th, 2007, 11:52   #2
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Default DIY: DSG Transmission Schedule Maintenance (40K miles interval) - Part II

Part II - Performing the DSG Transmission Service (Mechanical Procedure)



Lift the vehicle. Pay close attention to the lifting points and make sure the car is at level when lifted. The picture below shows the recommended lift points.









Remove the skid plate. Use a T-30 screwdriver to unscrew the back. Use a T-25 to unscrew the front.






Remove the air filter box. Unscrew the T-30 screw located at the front bottom, between the box itself and the battery, then pull the housing straight up. There is a grommet on the right side of the box that holds it in place. Use a light amount of force and it will come loose, setting the box free and allowing for removal. The return hose will also need to be removed.

NOTE: The picture below shows the filter cover being pulled out. That is because the air filter was serviced at the same time the transmission was. If you do not need to service the air filter then DO NOT remove the cover. Pull the entire box out instead. (Many thanks to our fellow member Drivbiwire for pointing this out).
A regular Phillips screwdriver is all you will need to remove the 8 screws holding the filter cover to the box.






Disconnect the MAF sensor. Depending on the model and/or production date of your car, there should be clips on each side of the sensor, holding it to its connector. Push the clips and pull the sensor straight out. Once the MAF sensor has been disconnected, it is highly recommended that you tape both the sensor and its connector with electrical tape, to prevent intrusion of dirt and dust. Set the sensor and the air filter housing cover aside and away from the work area. Regular duct tape can be used to hold them in place.








i Although removing the battery and its tray is recommended, it is still possible to continue to work comfortably without performing the removal. However, should you decide not to remove the battery, you should use a 24mm short socket in 3/8” with a 3/8” swivel.

Part III follows...
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'06 Jetta TDI Sport Edition Pkg2/DSG.
Sold
'06 Jetta 2.0T Pkg2/DSG.
73,200 mi.

Last edited by LF06VWJTDI; March 1st, 2007 at 15:18.
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Old February 28th, 2007, 11:58   #3
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Default DIY: DSG Transmission Schedule Maintenance (40K miles interval) - Part III

DSG Transmission Service (Mechanical Procedure)

Part III

With the air filter housing and the return hose out of the way the transmission should be fully exposed, or exposed enough to see its filter housing.



Unscrew the filter housing cap using a 24mm impact socket, similar to the one shown in the picture on the side.




Pull the filter housing cap out. Then, remove the old seal with a set of needle pliers and replace with a new seal (N 910 845 01). The location of the seal is outlined in the red polygon in the picture.



Removing the cap may be a little tricky. We would recommend pressing the inner cooler line inward, toward the engine block. That should yield enough clearance to allow for successful removal of the cap.

Prior to pulling the filter housing, tilt it slightly and allow residue oil to drain back into the transmission. This is done to greatly reduce contamination of new oil once you reinstall the filter housing.

Slide the old DSG filter out of its housing. We found that, at 40,000 miles, the DSG filter has collected enough impurity to show visibly dirty, especially when compared side by side with the new filter, as shown in the picture on the side.



Slide the new DSG Filter in its housing, nipple (or shoulder) downward.

i It is extremely important that no dirt is allowed to come in contact with any of the parts you are handling or replacing. Keep your work area and the replacement parts clean, especially while performing this operation. If you have access to a compressor, blow around the filter prior to its removal, to clear the area from any particles that might enter during removal.

Put the DSG Filter housing cap back on. It is easier to have someone assist you and hold the air filter housing back and out of the way. Tighten the cap bolt to 20Nm.

You can now begin to prepare for fluid drainage. Get your pan ready because you are about to extract 5 full liters of fluid.


Locate the inspection plug, located to the left of the oil plug and remove it using a 14mm hex socket (thanks to Paramedick for pointing out the size of the socket). Some fluid will start to come out at this point. Be extremely careful as the oil may still be hot and burn your fingers or your hand.






Remove the black plastic overflow snorkel located in the combination drain fill using an 8mm hex socket head. At this point the DSG oil will start to drain copiously. Let it drain until completely empty. About 5 liters of oil should drain out of the transmission.



Reinstall the overflow snorkel and tighten to 3Nm.

You are now ready to start filling your DSG transmission with new oil. Have your VAS 6262 tool ready. Thread the adapter from VAS6262 hand-tight into the combination drain fill.



Slide the hose portion of the tool through the engine compartment. Then hook the hose to the nipple.





i Shake each oil container well before opening.

Hook up the first bottle of DSG Oil to the upper end of the VAS6262 Tool. Hold the bottle straight up and open the tool’s shut-off valve. Gravity will drop the oil through the hose and up into the transmission chamber. Do not squeeze the bottle. If you do, oil will start leaking from the valve. To increase the flow, hold the bottle higher up instead.



Part IV follows...
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'06 Jetta TDI Sport Edition Pkg2/DSG.
Sold
'06 Jetta 2.0T Pkg2/DSG.
73,200 mi.

Last edited by LF06VWJTDI; June 1st, 2007 at 14:55.
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Old February 28th, 2007, 12:11   #4
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Default DIY: DSG Transmission Scheduled Maintenance (40K miles interval) - Part IV

DSG Transmission Service (Mechanical Procedure)

Part IV


Make sure that the DSG Transmission is filled with 5.5 liters of oil. About 0.5l to 1.0l of oil will run off later on when we prepare to finish the job. To change bottles simply close the shut-off valve, hook new bottle, and reopen the valve.





End of mechanical procedure.

Part V follows with technical procedure...


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Old February 28th, 2007, 12:11   #5
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Default DIY: DSG Transmission Service Maintenance (40K miles interval) - Part V

Part V

DSG Transmission Service: Technical Procedure


i DO NOT SKIP ANY OF THESE STEPS AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE PERFORMED IN THE SAME EXACT ORDER AS THEY ARE GIVEN TO YOU.

i VAG-COM (used here) or VAS 5051 is required. It is absolutely critical that the DSG temperature is within the recommended range while performing this procedure.

i DO NOT switch engine on or off unless you are directed to do so.

i Make sure VAS6262 hose does not touch any metal parts in the engine compartment to avoid melting the hose due to hot surfaces.

Hook up VAG-COM into the CAN bus located under the driver’s foot well.

Start the engine.

Start the VAG-COM software. Click the “Select Control Module” button.



In the Common tab of the Select Control Module screen, select 02 – Auto Trans



Select Measurement Blocks. Select (or type) group 019. Watch the ATF (Auto Trans Fluid) Temperature field.

While you wait for the ATF temperature to rise, sit at the driver’s seat. Press the brake pedal.

While holding the brake pedal depressed, shift into each selector lever position and hold it for about 3 seconds. After all positions were shifted into, return the lever into Park position.

When (and only then) the ATF temperature is in the 35 to 45 Celsius (95F - 113F) range, slide back under the car and disconnect the quick-release coupling of the VAS6262 adapter. At this point all the excess oil will start to drain. We estimated that about to liters of excess oil should drain.



i Should excess drain be higher than normal (1 liter or more), shut the engine off immediately and seek the help of a professional.

As soon as the excess oil starts to drip, meaning that it has run off, remove the VAS6262 adapter.

Install a new metal seal in the drain bolt and install. Tighten to 45Nm.



Turn the engine off.

Reinstall skid plate.

Perform a test drive to ensure that all is in good working order.


Congratulations! You have successfully performed the scheduled DSG transmission service.

End of documentation
__________________
'06 Jetta TDI Sport Edition Pkg2/DSG.
Sold
'06 Jetta 2.0T Pkg2/DSG.
73,200 mi.

Last edited by LF06VWJTDI; February 28th, 2007 at 12:16.
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Old February 28th, 2007, 13:04   #6
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holey ship - now that's a great how-to! thanks for all the time you put into this. cheers
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Old March 1st, 2007, 08:35   #7
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Can you elaborate on
"i Should excess drain be higher than normal (1 liter or more), shut the engine off immediately and seek the help of a professional."

Just wondering what might be hapening.

Thanks,
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Old March 1st, 2007, 08:52   #8
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Since you are new to these cars, One thing that MUST be changed in this procedure is the removal of the air filter top!

NEVER EVER remove that unless you are replacing the air filter, If you are not replacing it remove the entire box as an assembly without OPENING THE FILTER.

Given the fact that the 40K service coincides with the time that the air filter should be getting its first replacement you could integrate this into your procedure.

There is some dirt migration on the top of the element in your photos...

DB
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Last edited by Drivbiwire; March 1st, 2007 at 08:57.
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Old March 1st, 2007, 09:37   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drivbiwire
Since you are new to these cars, One thing that MUST be changed in this procedure is the removal of the air filter top!

NEVER EVER remove that unless you are replacing the air filter, If you are not replacing it remove the entire box as an assembly without OPENING THE FILTER.

Given the fact that the 40K service coincides with the time that the air filter should be getting its first replacement you could integrate this into your procedure.

There is some dirt migration on the top of the element in your photos...

DB
You are absolutely correct. Although I did show the picture with the air filter top removed, it was intended for me to say the the entire filter box should be removed as a whole. The reason why we did that, as you correctly guessed, was to replace the air filter, which was due as well. The dirt you see was completely removed via compressor once the assembly came out. Thank you for pointing that out, though. I will make a correction and make a note for the picture or change the picture all together.
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Old March 1st, 2007, 09:44   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBleed
Can you elaborate on
"i Should excess drain be higher than normal (1 liter or more), shut the engine off immediately and seek the help of a professional."

Just wondering what might be hapening.

Thanks,
The black plastic tube you see in one of the pictures, commonly known as the snorkel, is the device that actually determines the oil level in the transmission (citing the eBahn manual). It's basically an overflow device which allows for excess oil that is not needed in the transmission to drain out of the chamber until the proper level is reached and by then the flow slows down to a drip until it eventually stops.
According to eBahn, and we verified this, about 1/2 liter of excess oil should drain. For us it turned out to be closer to 3/4.
Therefore any drainage whose amount exceeds those that were just mentioned is not considered "safe". Possible causes? A loose or improperly installed snorkel for instance. It may also be that the VAS6262 fill adapter is loose or improperly installed.
Hope that helps.
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Old March 1st, 2007, 09:48   #11
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DB - he had replaced the filter before, I was unsure how he did and wanted to inspect - it was due and the housing needed cleaned _ I also sensor safe silicone sealed it for him, he had small leaks just like mine but his were in the edges and mine were in the corners. LF has done a good job on this and can edit it at his leasure. We hope to convince others who may be inclined not to do this service to do it themselves. The cost of service then for the life reduced by over 50%.
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Post your UOA data in the TDI UOA Database thread
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~ USED OIL ANALYSIS ~ http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=190958
~
1.9 PD Jetta V ~ pkg 1 ~
DSG ~ 17" VV ~ 36/34 psi ~
ULSD ~ DG-BP90 - speed 39.2
hwy/city 83% / 17% ~
elev 58 ft / temp 72 F / humidity 76% ~ MPG 48.3 / 42.8 / 35.6

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Old March 1st, 2007, 09:58   #12
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I am no expert by any means WJ, neither I claim to be. I merely put this document together after you performed the work because I have this topic particularly at heart. The reason is that I know that there are dealers out there who are telling customers that this transmission doesn't need service (I was one of them I was told this to); some others are telling customers no service is due until 100K miles. Those very few dealers that actually know that this service is due and when, are charging their customers no less than $400 and up to $800!!!! That is ridiculous and I will do whatever I can to let anyone out there know that their DSG can be serviced in a couple of hours and for only $250, which includes the cost of the VAS tool that you need buy only once.
The service itself, if you follow the eBahn letter by letter and use our documentation as an auxiliary means of getting help, is not such a big deal. With the money you save you can go buy yourselves and your families many steak dinners. I know I am...tomorrow...matter of fact...
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Old March 1st, 2007, 10:08   #13
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You are not a expert maybe - but that is a damn good illustration and with some refinement, its top notch, you could get work doing such.

Like my Kubota manual states

Always use clean fleash water
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Post your UOA data in the TDI UOA Database thread
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=205814


~ USED OIL ANALYSIS ~ http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=190958
~
1.9 PD Jetta V ~ pkg 1 ~
DSG ~ 17" VV ~ 36/34 psi ~
ULSD ~ DG-BP90 - speed 39.2
hwy/city 83% / 17% ~
elev 58 ft / temp 72 F / humidity 76% ~ MPG 48.3 / 42.8 / 35.6

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Old March 1st, 2007, 11:07   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBleed
Can you elaborate on
"i Should excess drain be higher than normal (1 liter or more), shut the engine off immediately and seek the help of a professional."

Just wondering what might be hapening.

Thanks,
I think this means that you screwed something up like not properly installing the snorkel, or dumped in way too much fluid or didn't drain it properly by removing the snorkel.. basically.. it won't happen unless you are a complete mechanical boob..

But I do have a couple things to add/ask.

When adding the fluid via the tool, is there a vent in the tool, or does one need to puncture the bottom of the oil container to allow proper flow?

Also, this tool looks easily made by purchasing a drain plug (for proper thread) some vinyl hose and a valve. I already bought the valve that taps onto an oil container at walmart for under 2 bucks, the hose is 3 bucks, and the drain plug is 5-10 at best. A little engineering and you save yourself $95 that is basically a glorified vinyl tube.

Great write up.
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Old March 1st, 2007, 11:10   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunno513
I think this means that you screwed something up like not properly installing the snorkel, or dumped in way too much fluid or didn't drain it properly by removing the snorkel.. basically.. it won't happen unless you are a complete mechanical boob..

But I do have a couple things to add/ask.

When adding the fluid via the tool, is there a vent in the tool, or does one need to puncture the bottom of the oil container to allow proper flow?

Also, this tool looks easily made by purchasing a drain plug (for proper thread) some vinyl hose and a valve. I already bought the valve that taps onto an oil container at walmart for under 2 bucks, the hose is 3 bucks, and the drain plug is 5-10 at best. A little engineering and you save yourself $95 that is basically a glorified vinyl tube.

Great write up.
You are absolutely correct about the tool. WJDell pointed it out as well, last time I saw him. Perhaps some instructions on how to build that could be added here as well. WJ?
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