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Other VW Group TD(I)s To keep with the theme of VW Diesels, this message area is for discussion of other VW Group Diesels. Yes, TD's are also welcome.

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Old December 19th, 2006, 22:34   #1
valkyrie32
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: massachusetts,MA
TDI(s): none
Fuel Economy: 39-44
Default performance ideas for 82 VW 1.6 diesel (non turbo)

Greetings,

i am a new member looking to get some advice and input on any performance upgrades for a 1982 VW pick up with a 1.6l non turbo motor. Project truck was picked up during the summer 06. truck is now used as daily driver. LOVE THIS TRUCK!
But as most of you know, the 1.6 was not known for its performance statistics. i have installed a Greasecar VO system on and truck runs well.

So, any ideas or thoughts on this.

thank you.
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Old December 20th, 2006, 07:01   #2
PDJetta
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The best upgrade you can do is to drop in a good used true IDI VW 1.6 l TD motor, or a newer 1.9 liter IDI naturally aspirated, or a 1.9 L TD motor. Both upgrades will require an exhaust system change.

The 1.6 L TD will not be easy to find and the 1.9 L will not be cheap.

--Nate
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Old December 20th, 2006, 10:36   #3
redmondjp
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If you are really concerned about performance, you would not be running on waste oils. Even biodiesel has less energy per gallon than regular diesel. More energy per gallon = more potential performance, if your engine is set up correctly.

You can hop up a 1.6l motor by buying a specially-tweaked injection pump--there's a guy (either in CA or up in Canada I think) who rebuilds the pumps at various performance levels. Ain't cheap however, and if you're going to run WVO through it, I sure wouldn't spend the $. If you search around on the site below you will find everything you need to know about performance and the 1.6 motors.

There is the VW GTD forums: http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/

Look, there is no free lunch--free fryer oil maybe. If you really want performance, sell the VW and get an old Mustang 5.0l for a grand or two.
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Old December 20th, 2006, 19:29   #4
valkyrie32
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Smile thank you for replys

Both of your inputs are noted. The reason for the VO addition was for economy, but also the practicallity of using a liquid that conceivably was what a diesel was originally designed to use- waste collections from farm or agricultural products.

While I appreciate the comments pointing out the inherent reduction of cetene capacity versus diesel, this was already considered when I installed the system. However, when VO is heated to approximately 140 degrees, viscosity and atomization is almost identical to biodiesel and godd old #2 Diesel. Overall my experience and research indicates that most oils (peanut, cotton seed, etc) have an approximate reduction of 10-12% cetene vs. diesel.

Regardless of the fuel, the 1.6l is no performance motor. My inquiry is to gather useful information in order to overcome the dreaded steep hill or excessive driving conditions that i currently drive-for those familiar- the MASS pike in rush hour- 75mph is the norm. Imagine a 24 year old VW 1.6 keeping up with this bunch.

PS-the mustang is a really good recommandation. I like them. But I am loyal to my VW pick up!
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Old December 25th, 2006, 14:04   #5
v8volvo
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Where in MA are you? I go to school in Medford and drive a dark green 4-door '81 Rabbit with a Greasecar kit in it too, so honk if you see me!

How have you been doing getting it started in the cold? There were a few mornings this fall when my 1.6 was pretty unhappy firing up...

Also I've had a lot of trouble with my Greasecar system getting the fuel up to temp...how well does yours work? Do you notice any rough/unsteady idling or clacking after running on VO for awhile? Mine is fine for the first 5 minutes or so after switch over (and I wait a long time, about 20 minutes of driving usually), and then after that it starts to buck and clack a lot more than I'd like.

Here's what mine looks like:
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Old December 28th, 2006, 06:59   #6
gti-tdi
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Add a turbo. Regardless of what everyone else says, it's possible and is 100% reliable. I have an 82 rabbit that was once NA, and I added the k26 and factory manifolds from an 86 jetta TD. People will whine and bicker all day long and try to get you to do it a different way, because people on the internet are geniuses... What I find funny is that little to none of those people have actually turboed a 1.6NA. I have. It's been running for months, and I beat the ever living piss out of it. I don't drive cars easy. I floor and redline it EVERYWHERE. I left the wastegate at a stock setting of around 9psi with 11-12psi spikes. I turned the fuel screw up a little bit to add more fuel. I have a TD pump, but I left the NA pump on it.

VW built the TD to withstand higher temperatures because there is always an idiot that will floor it going up a 10 mile hill... Or somebody that doesn't know how to treat cars (or diesels for that matter). If you take care of your car, use a pyrometer, an oil temp gauge and a true oil cooler your NA diesel will perform like a TD for years and years.

The ECO diesel is a turbo engine without a turbo pump. Lack of fuel will not melt pistons like it will in a gas engine. Diesels run lean and detonate by nature. The 1.6NA engine is a VERY strong engine, and I predict the NA could last 100,000 miles (in addition to "pre-turbo" miles) while running stock boost.

At 10 psi you couldn't hurt the engine if you tried. Just make sure for the summer you get an oil cooler (a true oil cooler and not a heat exchanger), and a pyrometer to make sure your exhaust temps are in check, and you will be fine.

My 82 Rabbit with over 200,000 miles on it WITH added factory turbo equipment:


Last edited by gti-tdi; December 28th, 2006 at 07:02.
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Old December 30th, 2006, 07:07   #7
super td
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I noticed you have your breather lines off the intake looped, and the crankcase breather hose diving off into the engine compartment, any preformance increase with this? You also have spliced rubber lines on to the turbo oil feed line, any particular reason for this?
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Old January 3rd, 2007, 10:07   #8
gti-tdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super td
I noticed you have your breather lines off the intake looped, and the crankcase breather hose diving off into the engine compartment, any preformance increase with this? You also have spliced rubber lines on to the turbo oil feed line, any particular reason for this?
Well... crankcase breather connection on my valve cover comes out a different direction than the TD... I just needed to rig up some different lines, but I was too lazy at the time of the photograph... No power gains... The only thing it does is pollute the atmosphere.

Ohhh and the oil lines. I used 300psi fuel injection line to carry the oil to the turbo... works great. I would have used the factory oil supply line but I kinda.... broke it in the removal process at the junkyard.
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Old January 14th, 2007, 08:23   #9
2td
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie32
Greetings,

i am a new member looking to get some advice and input on any performance upgrades for a 1982 VW pick up with a 1.6l non turbo motor. Project truck was picked up during the summer 06. truck is now used as daily driver. LOVE THIS TRUCK!
But as most of you know, the 1.6 was not known for its performance statistics. i have installed a Greasecar VO system on and truck runs well.

So, any ideas or thoughts on this.

thank you.
If you have to do 70 something, you have to work with the cd. A rabbit is about as slippery as a graham cracker box.. At a local bumper shop you have your choice of fairing material, and they will give it to you..! Also put on a belly pan.. never use an air gate, they work on a parachute principal. Never remove a gate, but always keep it up.. A 3 foot fairing placed 2 foot from the back of the bed is good, a camper that is directly behind the cab is best.. The rabbit is of urban design, but the Rampage is a better baseline for speed, so I ultimately junked the rabbit, keep in mind cd decrease is better money spent then hp increase.. resistance increases to the cube of speed..
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Old November 9th, 2011, 19:06   #10
farnhamassoc
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Riverside CA
Fuel Economy: 32 city avg 44 hwy avg.....
Default how to make a 1.6 vw diesel faster

It is very simple but time consuming. Some people on this website will tell you I am crazy but this works so well I need others to know about it. Go to www.hansdiesel.com and purchase the turbo kit. It is a replica of other later model tdi turbo, intake, exhaust. It cost about $450. You will also need a tubing kit and some adapters. I used a intercooler kit from ebay. Has most of what you will need. You will need to change the exhaust and cut all the tubing to make it fit. Proth sells a rebuilt adnoid injector pump very cheap and they work well but you may need to return it once to get a good one. Or you can simply turn up the fuel on your old stock pump. Be careful not to over fuel this will cause the engine to run hot. High EGT will cook a turbo.

Here is what I run on my caddy
turbo kit, adnoid pump with fuel adjusted up a little, stock cam, stock head, stock pistons, 13lbs boost max, 2.25 exhaust straight pipe, timed at 1mm and TDI 505.1 oil. I have A/C and it works. I can drive on the freeway at 70 with no problems a/c blasting plenty of power to pass. With the fuel a 1/2 turn up it will get hot on long hills but also will burn the tires through 1st and 2nd set you back in 3rd and 4th. Blows away my stock 06 TDI.
If you lean it out it will get up to 50+mpg but 70 is pretty much pinned but still faster than stock by far. I have mine set up to do 37-45mpg and very fun to drive.
There is a website that tells you how to turn up the fuel on 1.6 it is pretty simple the only screw that looks threatening is the fuel screw. Has some sort of brass thing on it. When you adjust the fuel it also changes the idle. you need to do this litttle by little or it will get away from you. Clockwise is more fuel counter clockwise is less. 1/2 turn is a great improvement.

My stock caddy would climb hills in first gear somtimes. Now I just watch the boost gauge go up to 13 and hold on.

The total cost of everything was about $800 and about 3-5 days of work. but well worth it and very reliable.

here is an update. If you have the early 1600 with the alan bolt head. You will need to replace the engine. They were only made for a year or 2. Also the 1500 is a POS. so dont even turbo it just take it out and junk it. They didnt make enough meat on the block where the head bolts go. Eventually turbo or not it will crack the block.

I replaced my 1.6 early to a 1.9 german engine. What a difference. without the adenoid it is faster than the other engine. Also the same mileage. Pulls hills faster. More drivable. No turbo lag with the TDI turbo. In fact I would just remove any 1.6 and pay the money to upgrade. It is just a better all around engine design.

Last edited by farnhamassoc; December 23rd, 2013 at 22:20. Reason: update.
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Old November 9th, 2011, 19:17   #11
farnhamassoc
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Riverside CA
Fuel Economy: 32 city avg 44 hwy avg.....
Default NA Pump vs adnoid

Quote:
Originally Posted by gti-tdi View Post
Add a turbo. Regardless of what everyone else says, it's possible and is 100% reliable. I have an 82 rabbit that was once NA, and I added the k26 and factory manifolds from an 86 jetta TD. People will whine and bicker all day long and try to get you to do it a different way, because people on the internet are geniuses... What I find funny is that little to none of those people have actually turboed a 1.6NA. I have. It's been running for months, and I beat the ever living piss out of it. I don't drive cars easy. I floor and redline it EVERYWHERE. I left the wastegate at a stock setting of around 9psi with 11-12psi spikes. I turned the fuel screw up a little bit to add more fuel. I have a TD pump, but I left the NA pump on it.

VW built the TD to withstand higher temperatures because there is always an idiot that will floor it going up a 10 mile hill... Or somebody that doesn't know how to treat cars (or diesels for that matter). If you take care of your car, use a pyrometer, an oil temp gauge and a true oil cooler your NA diesel will perform like a TD for years and years.

The ECO diesel is a turbo engine without a turbo pump. Lack of fuel will not melt pistons like it will in a gas engine. Diesels run lean and detonate by nature. The 1.6NA engine is a VERY strong engine, and I predict the NA could last 100,000 miles (in addition to "pre-turbo" miles) while running stock boost.

At 10 psi you couldn't hurt the engine if you tried. Just make sure for the summer you get an oil cooler (a true oil cooler and not a heat exchanger), and a pyrometer to make sure your exhaust temps are in check, and you will be fine.

My 82 Rabbit with over 200,000 miles on it WITH added factory turbo equipment:

If you put on the adnoid pump when you floor it it will pull harder than the NA pump because it increases fuel rate. Very noticable power increase and doesnt change mileage much. Only if you are flooring it all the time.
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