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Old April 14th, 2011, 18:35   #46
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Location: NY

Thanks a lot for the write up and photos. This is exactly what I needed. I'll be cleaning mine out soon

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Old June 13th, 2011, 15:26   #47
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NW Ohio
Fuel Economy: 47 mpg

I just did this procedure over the weekend. The write-up helped tons! At first, I thought I might be getting in over my head. Was planning on just doing the EGR, but when I took it off, it was obvious that the intake HAD to be done. It was as bad as any pics I have seen on the posts. I followed directions, took my time and it went very smooth. I was very excited when I got done, started it up, and it didn't blow up on me!

I was however deflated when I took it for a test drive, and no increase in performance as it has been sluggish. I took it to work today and spent the day looking over the forum for possible explanations. All clues led to MAF. So I decided to try the "disconnect MAF and look for changes in performance". Well, when I popped the hood, I noticed that the MAF connector was not hooked back up after intake cleaning! I hooked it up drove away, and it took off like a raped ape! I have my snappy little TDI back now.

When people ask why I love my TDI so much, I tell them they just don't understand! And this forum has saved me many dollars and headaches. Thank you all!
2003 Jetta TDI
210,000 miles

Last edited by A.J; June 14th, 2011 at 06:25.
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Old June 14th, 2011, 08:30   #48
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Default A Note of Caution

Please do not use oven cleaner for the intake manifold. The active ingredient in every oven cleaner I know is sodium hydroxide, aka caustic soda. This stuff eats aluminum.

If you have a question about any cleaner you want to use, just pour/spray some of it on aluminum foil first to test it.
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Old June 14th, 2011, 08:35   #49
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Location: Fayetteville, NY
TDI(s): 2010 Jetta
Fuel Economy: 43ish

Does anyone know of a write to do this procedure on an A5?
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Old June 16th, 2011, 10:47   #50
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i don't know about here on tdiclub, but here's one from mtd

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Old July 3rd, 2011, 19:13   #51
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Location: Houston
Default Used Redneck Technique on Youtube

First off, thanks for the write up. The job is a still a PITA regardless. Cleaning the IM was a pain even with a pressure washer. There are surfaces that the pressure washer just cannot get to. I went radical and used the Redneck technique (propane and compressed air). To minimize the chance of cracking, I covered most of the IM with a wet rag. Having removed half the gunk earlier via pressure washer, I swished diesel in the IM for additional "fuel". Important thing is don't let the flames scare you. Wear goggles and welding gloves.
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Old July 4th, 2011, 03:14   #52
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Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA

Covering the outside of the manifold with wet cloths is MORE likely to cause cracking. The cracking force is from large temperature differences across the metal.

I have never seen or heard of one cracking? Can you educate me on this?
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Old July 4th, 2011, 16:11   #53
Join Date: Mar 2009
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TDI(s): 06 Jetta

I have a 2006 Jetta TDI with about 39k... is this intake manifold cleaning something I should be planing soon or do I have a ways to go? The car feels / drives great and gets ~43 MPG driving mostly around town in suburban northern Westchester N.Y.
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Old July 5th, 2011, 17:44   #54
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Location: Mechanicsville, VA, USA
Fuel Economy: 42-48

I did mine a few years ago and got some Purple cleaner from the local parts store. Dumped the whole thing in the manifold in a plastic bin, and let it sit over night. It bubbled and frothed, and in the AM it was ready to rinse. Clean as a whistle. The only problem was where to dispose of the mess? I honestly don't remember where I did it?

Sounds like the redneck method might be the simplest...
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Old July 5th, 2011, 19:07   #55
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From another thread, here's my contribution:

I checked online and found my nearest VW dealer was open 'til 5:00 Saturday. Drove over there to get the gaskets and found the parts department had closed at 1:00. Drove home and did the job anyway. I would have preferred to have a new metal gasket, as it took some scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad to get it smooth enough to be sure it wouldn't leak, but it was not a problem.

Here are my comments:

1. Some of the how-to discussions say disconnect the coolant lines from the exhaust cooler and either clamp them or position them high enough so they don't spill coolant. This isn't necessary. Once the exhaust cooler has been untethered from its moorings, there's plenty of flex and length in the coolant lines just to pull it up out of the way and tie it there with string.

2. I chose to use the "redneck" method, with a plumber's torch and compressed air to burn out the residue. After watching several YouTube videos of the procedure, I determined there's no need to put a wet towel on the outside of the manifold while doing this, and in fact, the wet towel can keep the process from working completely.

This turned out to be easy, and fun!

3. It took some experiment to find the best positions for the torch and compressed air. It worked best to keep the torch off to the side enough so the compressed air didn't blow it out, but where it still kept the residue ignited.

It worked best to hold the compressed air nozzle back away from the intake opening a little to get the strongest burn with the least amount of smoke. This was a bit tricky, as the best position for the air also meant there was a plume of flame shooting back towards my hands. I did the job with bare hands and didn't get burned, but it would have been safer with gloves.

4. After the burnout was complete, I blew compressed air on the manifold awhile to start cooling it slowly. Then I misted it very lightly with a fine garden hose spray, let the mist sizzle off the manifold, did it again, etc. until it was cool to the touch. I would not quench a hot manifold by immersing it directly in water.

5. At this point, there was no remaining buildup of residue except a very thin crust in one or two small areas at the engine block ports. I scraped this off with my pocket knife.

6. Then I felt inside the manifold and found it was clean down to the metal surface, but there were tiny sandy granules of black grit that could be rubbed off. I flushed the inside with the garden hose and compressed air and rubbed off as much as I could reach with my fingers, but there was still some remaining, so I tried some chemicals.

7. First I tried BrakeKleen, which dissolved some but not all of the grit. Carburetor cleaner might have been better, but I didn't have any.

Then I tried filling the manifold with oven cleaner, sloshing it around and letting it soak a few minutes. By orienting the openings so they were above most of the body of the manifold, I was able to get the manifold full, with the oven cleaner in contact with pretty much all the inside surface. After leaving it to work awhile, I washed it out with the garden hose.

This worked really well, leaving shiny metal in much of the inside, and black but otherwise clean and grit-free metal in the areas towards the four openings that connect to the engine block.

8. Then I cleaned out the EGR/anti-shudder valve body. This was easy with a pocket knife and attention to detail to get all the surfaces cleared down to metal, blowing out any loose crumbs with compressed air.

After putting everything back together, I took a test drive and found there was a noticeable improvement in response through the power curve. Especially, at about 3400 rpm, it would continue to accelerate in third gear up a hill I use for testing, whereas before I cleaned the manifold, it would level off unless I shifted.

This manifold wasn't very dirty. There was hardly any residue inside the body of the manifold or near the ports to the engine block. There was some buildup at the EGR end of the manifold, but still a large opening, nothing like some of the pictures that have been posted.

Even though this car was running really well, I had decided to clean the manifold based on its mileage (154K). After seeing how little residue there was, I thought there might not be any noticeable effect from cleaning, but I was pleasantly surprised.
Best wishes,
2000 Jetta TDI, five speed manual, 150K miles, ventectomy, TT LCA bushings, TDTuning stage 1+, H&R 22mm RSB

Last edited by Jerry Freeman; July 5th, 2011 at 19:15.
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Old July 6th, 2011, 09:39   #56
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Southwest Michigan
Default Gasket kit?

Great write up! I plan on doing mine soon (after looking into the EGR the other day ).

Does anybody sell a gasket kit for this procedure? Or maybe one of you members has a list of gaskets to get together before getting started?

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Old December 2nd, 2011, 17:02   #57
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Fuel Economy: 48 mpg after IP rebuild

I was wondering the same thing about replacing gaskets.
Should they be replaced as part of the intake cleaning procedure?
1999 Jetta TDI, 5 spd.
140K miles, 48 mpg after IP rebuild
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 17:56   #58
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Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA

I replace them when the intake cleaning is part of a planned event.
But about half the time we re-use the gaskets, no problems noted.
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 14:04   #59
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Fuel Economy: 48 mpg after IP rebuild
Default Gasket Kit

I noticed that Deafbug purchased a gasket kit from World Impex.
Any other places have a kit for doing the intake cleaning?

1999 Jetta TDI, 5 spd.
140K miles, 48 mpg after IP rebuild
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 14:31   #60
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Idparts.com does

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