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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old October 11th, 2006, 20:44   #16
chromeBuddha
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Try cracking the bleed nipple to reduce pressure.
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Old October 11th, 2006, 20:46   #17
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guys, he said the caliper pistons were stuck all the way out. He probably damaged the pads when prying them out. How's he gonna drive it anywhere unless he gets the piston back in to replace the pads?
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Old October 12th, 2006, 05:06   #18
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The piston can in extreme extension situations (pads worn to backing plate for example) be pushed completely off the threaded stud. The piston seal will allow rotation but if it isn't still engaged on the stud, it never retracts.
Press it back until it engages the stud then continue with the twist and push.
A proper tool matches the stud's thread pitch and will significantly reduce the liklihood of damaging the first turn of the thread as the piston is pushed back in contact.
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Old October 12th, 2006, 06:22   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOGolf
What tool are you using for the windback? Does it also put pressure on the piston at the same time?

If it does get pushed out to the extreme limit (e.g. you have no pad material left) it does take an extreme amount of pressure to get it started back in.

There are several people in MI that can help. Can you supply a more specific location for the car?
This has happened twice for me. Both times the pad was down to the rivets. You have to wind OUT until the boot literally has no ribs in it. Don't go TOO far out!

Then wind in, then out, then in again. After about 6 times (in the rain, on a gravel driveway... LOL), it WILL go back in. It will take about 15 - 20 full turns to get the piston back in from fully extended.
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Old October 12th, 2006, 06:54   #20
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Thanks again everyone for the timely and knowledgable responses. This forum has saved my butt and my nerves. As jokila recommended, I called a local Autozone, they have the tool. I'm on my way out to finish the job now (in the snow... yeah... it's SNOWING@!!). At any rate, thanks everyone for the help, the tips and support here.

Last edited by PseudoFinn; November 6th, 2006 at 09:13.
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Old November 6th, 2006, 09:22   #21
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So now... I have another problem- one of the pistons won't wind back out now. The caliper compresses, then when it releases, it goes too far back out- and the brakes are quite soft at first, and never have quite as much stopping power as they used to. Do I need to wind the piston back out a little bit, or was my bleeding not adequate? I wasn't sure I was really going to need to bleed the brakes, but they were very soft at first pump, would come up on the second pump, but go back to soft after a moment- so we just bled the side that was having a problem- but it didn't help. Air never came out with the fluid.

And the parking brake is nearly useless...
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Old November 6th, 2006, 10:05   #22
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You have to exercise the e-brake repeatedly to get the piston back to it's adjusted operating position. If you haven't already operated the e-brake several times, this is what's needed. If you have done this already and it's not bringing the piston back to position, I question the adjustment of that cable on that end, if that's good too, then I question the actual adjustment mechanism and thus the caliper. The adjustment mechanism might have been damaged in the ordeal...
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Old November 6th, 2006, 11:01   #23
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I bet the calipers are fine, but like someone else mentioned...it takes a near a stupid amount of force while turning to get those things turned back where they need to be
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Old November 7th, 2006, 09:33   #24
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jolly green- the ebrake adjustment being off sounds to be the must likely diagnosis. Is it possible that it would have changed just by removing it while changing the pads? I've tried backing up and pulling the ebrake a few times and this seemed to have helped a bit.
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Old November 7th, 2006, 09:41   #25
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You need to pull the center console ( armrest ) off, there are two phillips screws that hold it on which are accessible from the back seat. I think the A3's also have two 10mm plastic nuts which are under the shift boot. Pull it right out and then with 2 10mm wrenches, you can adjust the cable. The cable is adjusted properly when the cable is taught and pulls the caliper actuator just barely off it's stop. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get in there and look at it, you can tell if one or both are loose if there is zero tension on the cable with the e-brake in it's relaxed position. The caliper must clamp the pads to the rotor to adjust itself out, if the cable isn't applying full pressure due to reduced throw then you very well may not be able to get the piston to self-adjust.
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Old November 7th, 2006, 09:50   #26
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Thanks very much. I will check it out when I get back home. Hopefully this will get me sorted out.
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