www.tdiclub.com

Economy - Longevity - Performance
The #1 Source of TDI Information on the Web!
Forums Articles Links Meets
Orders TDI Club Cards TDIFest 2016 Gone, but not forgotten VAG-Com List Unit Conversions TDIClub Chat Thank You




Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs

VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old September 17th, 2006, 07:33   #1
corrado tdi
TDIClub Enthusiast
Vendor
w/Business number
 
corrado tdi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
Fuel Economy: 43ish overall
Default ALH Injector Pump Swap Details from dieselgeek

Hey Y'all:

Recently I’ve been asked about the details required to swap in an ALH injection pump into the older 1Z and AHU engines found in 1996-1997 B4 Passats and 1997-early 1999 Jetta III TDI cars. Dieselgeek.com used to sell a kit to do such a swap but we no longer offer such a kit as all operations can be done locally by a machine shop near you.

The injection pumps in the earlier cars are getting older and are hard to find at salvage yards. The newer ALH engines were sold in all of the 1998-2003 New Beetles and mid-1999 through 2003 Golf and Jetta TDI cars. The ALH engines are much more plentiful and a good used injection pump is easier to find since these engines were produced in much greater numbers than the earlier 1Z/AHU. By using a later pump there is the added benefit of higher injection pressure that accompanies the newer ALH pump in comparison to the older pumps. This may reduce smoke and increase power, especially if you are able to source an 11mm pump from an automatic-equipped ALH engine. Please note that you may reduce your timing belt change interval if you chose to use an 11mm injection pump as it puts more stress on the timing belt. I cannot say what the interval should be in this case.

If you find that your 1Z/AHU injection pump is leaking to the point of losing its prime and failing to start the engine you do not have to replace the pump! Seal kits are available to stop the leaks. But if your pump is knocking or if multiple diagnoses point to a bad pump then you can source a good used ALH pump and with a little extra effort your car can be fixed and modernized at the same time.

Please note that dieselgeek.com no longer sells the kit to install the ALH injection pump into the older engine but I am making public the general details of this swap. Post all relevant questions to this thread. I will not answer PMs in reference to this thread. Also, Id like this thread to be a FAQ on the subject so I will only answer relevant questions and ignore any that are not moving this thread forward. Please refrain from posting anything if it does not act to clarify what I have written.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures.

Here's a simplified rundown:

1. Cut the cast iron 1Z/AHU pump bracket hole to 60mm at a machine shop. Test fit the new pump to the bracket before the bracket leaves the machine shop. You will need to source some longer 8mm bolts to bolt the ALH pump into the newly cut cast iron 1Z/AHU pump bracket. These are available at Home Depot or Lowes, etc. The thread pitch is 1.25. Your machinist should be able to measure the bolt length that is required to secure the pump to the bracket.

2. Cut sheet metal timing belt backing plate pump hole to 2.5” with hole saw. First use a 2" hole saw on a piece of hardwood to cut a 1/4" deep groove ONLY. Then set the sheetmetal ring in this 2" diameter groove in the wood and then use a 2.5" hole saw to cut sheetmetal to 2.5" where the pump protrudes through it. Your machinist may be able to do this job for you on his/her mill.

3. Machine down beveled side of ALH injection pump pulley (PN: 038 130 111A or 111B) to fit under the 1Z or AHU timing cover. Cut down the beveled side to the level of the edge of the timing belt teeth which means that the beveled side should be completely flat after machining. Attach pulley to pump with three pulley adjustment bolts N 903 285 04. The torque specification on these bolts is 18 lb/ft.

4. Swap all 10 of the electrical pins from the two plugs that are currently feeding your injection pump to the single ALH electrical plug (PN: 1J0 973 735) which is available at your dealer for around $9.00. The female receptacles can be removed from terminal housings with a medium sized safety pin but be careful not to bend barbs before they are fully depressed to release receptacles from plastic housing. There are special terminal tools to do this job but they are expensive and hard to find. Be sure to remove violet retainer on 1J0 plug before trying to insert pins. Replace it after pins are installed completely. You may want to practice on a junk yard plug before you attempt pin extraction on your wiring harness! You will be a more patient person after you practice

The equivalent terminal/pin numbers are as follows:

Terminal Position/Wire color-ALH/ Wire color/Terminal position1Z & AHU

T10/1 Lilac/black Lilac/black T8/1 (Ex: remove #1 wire on your 8-pin plug and insert into the #1 position on 10-pin 1J0 plug)
T10/2 Grey/green Grey/green T8/2
T10/3 White/green White/green T8/3
T10/4 Brown/blue Brown/blue T8/4
T10/5 Red/Lilac Black/Yellow T8/5
T10/6 Brown/red Brown/yellow T8/6
T10/7 Yellow/red Yellow/black T8/7
T10/8 Black/white White/black T3/1
T10/9 Brown/black Brown/black T3/2
T10/10 Yellow/black Black/yellow T3/3

You may use any ALH pump, 10 or 11mm. You will need to buy a pump pin for setting the pump to TDC from a fine vendor such as www.metalnerd.com (Tool PN: MN3359). Check start of injection after starting car for the first time. If necessary, adjust timing with three pulley adjustment bolts N 903 285 04 just like you would with any ALH engine.
__________________
Jim Royston
www.dieselgeek.com

Last edited by corrado tdi; September 18th, 2006 at 06:18.
corrado tdi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 17th, 2006, 17:34   #2
tomo366
TDI Lifer
 
tomo366's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1997
Location: Kensington, Maryland USA
Default

The incidence of leaking pumps on 1Z's are growing daily.......
My is leaking now you might want to consider markerting these again!
__________________
My page is Dedicated to the Memory of
Christopher Farnham RIP my friend!
Great friend and supporter of TDICLUB
2015 Jetta TDI SEL Tornado red
2014 BMW 328D XDrive Glacier Silver
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black!
tomo366 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 18th, 2006, 06:17   #3
corrado tdi
TDIClub Enthusiast
Vendor
w/Business number
 
corrado tdi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A.
Fuel Economy: 43ish overall
Default

I want to reiterate to everyone that leaky pumps can be fixed. The only time anyone should be looking for a new pump is when there is an internal problem that cannot be remedied by a bolt-on fix such as a fuel temp sender, seals, cold start solenoid, etc. (Tomo: I know that you know this I just wanna be sure everyone else does...)

The critical details of the pump swap are in the first post. When I sold the kits (5 total) I charged about $150 in parts and labor for the kit. I think that most people might be able to save some money and time by doing these few things locally at a machine shop. The part numbers for the connectors, bolts and tool are above. The only really tricky part is the actual removal of the electrical pins. Practicing on a plug obtained at a salvage yard is highly recommended to move up that learning curve. My kit had no special tool included for this task so the relevant details are now public.
__________________
Jim Royston
www.dieselgeek.com
corrado tdi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 30th, 2006, 13:10   #4
Warthog
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Clemson, SC
TDI(s): see Bio
Fuel Economy: VW:49-53 depends on car, 40-0n the B5
Unhappy Help from D-geek, pls.

Seal kits from Dieselgeek are easy to use if you have tools for working on metric things.
I successfully replaced the top and middle seals and only needed to buy the 3-sided socket...
Now I have replaced the pump head seal. Everything went fine until I got the head about 3mm from seating during installation. It wouldn't go any further. I finally took the top (and middle) sections off the pump to SEE what was going on in the insides.
It seems that the shaft in the pump (the shaft that the collar-with-the-pin-socket)doesn't want to go into the boss that is part of the 'head'. I'd like to know what the end of the shaft looks like. If anyone has a photo or a good drawing (from a parts manual) they can post it would be very nice. I thought I'd seen one on the forum before, but now I cannot find it. This is a 1Z engine with a O (or zero?)-460-404-990 pump. The end of the shaft seems to have a small chamfer on it, so I think it ought to find it's way back into the boss center hole OK, but it doesn't want to. I took-up the screws very slowly and evenly when re-installing the head and it went pretty smoothly until the last little bit. Then I loosened them and retightened them over and over but never could get that last small gap to close.
Then I took the top parts off. Nothing is out of place that I can see, only the apparent misalignment at the junction where the shaft and the boss 'meet'.
Any ideas or suggestions? Pictures of internal parts?
edit later: Whoops. I apologize for posting this HERE. I failed to notice the admonition about additional posts to THIS thread.

Last edited by Warthog; December 30th, 2006 at 19:39.
Warthog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 10th, 2008, 16:19   #5
tdibeliever
Veteran Member
 
tdibeliever's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Urbana, IL
Default

The hole needed in the bracket actually needs to be 68mm to fit the injection pump. I had my machinist add another .03mm to the dimension to ensure a clean slip fit. Spot on!
__________________
'14 Passat SE TSI
'86 Cadillac Coupe Deville
'73 and '68 BMW 2002s
'64 Porsche 356c
'55 IH R-122
tdibeliever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 18th, 2009, 06:19   #6
tdibeliever
Veteran Member
 
tdibeliever's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Urbana, IL
Default

I just mounted my pump yesterday and found I needed to shim the pump back towards the transmission approx. 2mm. The belt was running off the inside edge of the pulley by about 1mm. I used 3 hardened washers. between the bracket and the pump. Now I have about 1mm of exposed pulley behind the belt. I also noticed that after having removed the clipped nut at the 2 o'clock position from the rear timing cover (to make way for the bolt that now holds the pump) the rear timing cover flaps loose. To solve that I trimmed the ring from the nut clip so the nut fell off and reattached the remaining clip to the cover.
__________________
'14 Passat SE TSI
'86 Cadillac Coupe Deville
'73 and '68 BMW 2002s
'64 Porsche 356c
'55 IH R-122
tdibeliever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 25th, 2009, 19:41   #7
sdturbo
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: san diego
TDI(s): none
Default

Just did this aswell. I ended up putting a washer/spacer in aswell. All and all it went pretty smooth. Thanks for the writeup!
__________________
Josh
92 Volvo 240 wagon (TDI powered)
65 Mini Cooper (Honda b16 powered)
PM me for fab or mechanic work.
sdturbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2009, 23:41   #8
chittychittybangbang
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: CT
Default

I did this as well, pics and my notes here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_h...njpumpswap.htm

I found that a little shim would have helped but after starting the engine and occasional checks afterwards, it's right on the edge and not over. No unusual wear on the edge of the belt. I also used some washers to clamp down the TB cover.
chittychittybangbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 22nd, 2009, 09:35   #9
G60ING
Veteran Member
 
G60ING's Avatar
Default

I have done this upgrade on a friends car. I chose to keep the wiring stock and converted the IP's Mk4 plug to the Mk3 style plugs.

Last edited by G60ING; June 5th, 2011 at 16:07.
G60ING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 3rd, 2009, 10:59   #10
VW97JettaTDI
Veteran Member
 
VW97JettaTDI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wisconsin
TDI(s): VW97JettaTDI
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by chittychittybangbang
I did this as well, pics and my notes here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_h...njpumpswap.htm

I found that a little shim would have helped but after starting the engine and occasional checks afterwards, it's right on the edge and not over. No unusual wear on the edge of the belt. I also used some washers to clamp down the TB cover.
I like it! In the process of looking for pump and sprocket. Is there any foreseeable problems that can occur from a novice installing a pump by there self? ex: can a screw up horribly and like grenade the engine

here is just the rotor... wonder if you can just install this on a AHU 10mm pump? http://www.dieselvw.com/11mmRotor.htm
here would be a ALH pump http://www.dieselvw.com/ALHTDIInjectorPump.htm
Oh and here a AHU 12mm pump http://www.dieselvw.com/1ZAHUTDIInjector12mmPump.htm
You know i kinda feel that someone should of posted this stuff already, i hate spending hours researching for this stuff, i wish more people would do like this thread does and just lay out the process and facts instead of just saying "o hits easy"..

Last edited by VW97JettaTDI; August 3rd, 2009 at 11:28.
VW97JettaTDI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 4th, 2009, 02:56   #11
VW97JettaTDI
Veteran Member
 
VW97JettaTDI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wisconsin
TDI(s): VW97JettaTDI
Default

oh, and i have a stupid question, why couldn't some one just cut the wires to the plug, strip then and then solder them back so they don't have to deal with the pins? is this possible.
VW97JettaTDI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 4th, 2009, 03:27   #12
G60ING
Veteran Member
 
G60ING's Avatar
Default

five of the wires are all black and uncut wires is way better the solder. removing pins from plugs is easy once you know how to do it.
G60ING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 4th, 2009, 10:08   #13
VW97JettaTDI
Veteran Member
 
VW97JettaTDI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wisconsin
TDI(s): VW97JettaTDI
Default

G60 did you see my earlier post. Do you think it would be a bad idea to geta 12mm pump that looks like a direct bolt up?Oh and here a AHU 12mm pump http://www.dieselvw.com/1ZAHUTDIInjector12mmPump.htm Also an opinion on just removing the rotor and putting in a larger one? have you herd people have trouble?
VW97JettaTDI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 4th, 2009, 10:46   #14
G60ING
Veteran Member
 
G60ING's Avatar
Default

Find me an OEM VW 12mm pump and then I'd consider using it. That guy sells crap.

Personally I'd recomend you send your 10mm pump to Giles and let him work his magic. Thats what I intend to do someday.
G60ING is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 4th, 2009, 15:04   #15
VW97JettaTDI
Veteran Member
 
VW97JettaTDI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wisconsin
TDI(s): VW97JettaTDI
Default

yeah, i just talked to charlie at kerma, he was telling me about all the cheap Chinese parts out there I was all excited. ho do i get a hold of giles?

Hey i did a while back order some 520 injectors a couple years ago that i think could be knock offs. would there be any harm in installing them and pulling them out once i get the rest of my setup and some real bisio injectors and have my injectors cleaned?
I figure no ones gunna want to buy knock off so i might as well use them right?? what could go wrong.. seriously i want to know!

Last edited by VW97JettaTDI; August 4th, 2009 at 21:08.
VW97JettaTDI is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:51.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright - TDIClub Online LTD - 2017
Contact Us | Privacy Statement | Forum Rules | Disclaimer
TDIClub Online Ltd (TDIClub.com) is not affiliated with the VWoA or VWAG and is supported by contributions from viewers like you.
1996 - 2017, All Rights Reserved
Page generated in 0.16756 seconds with 9 queries
[Output: 133.53 Kb. compressed to 111.57 Kb. by saving 21.96 Kb. (16.45%)]