Another broken anti shudder valve fix

For those of you who have broken an anti shuuder valve nipple, this may be of help.

I had a member come by today after he broke his doing an intake cleaning last weekend. I thought we could use a splint, like a WD40 straw or something like that. But then it occured to me that I had some brass nipple fittings that would fit nicely in the empty spot created by the broken nipple

Here is the broken piece:



Mix up a small batch of JB Weld or similar (I used Permatex Cold Weld fast setting) and presto, you have a functioning anti shudder valve again:


The procedure took all of 15 minutes to complete and with the fast hardening version of the Permatex Cold Weld, he was on his way in no time.

Very Cool -

It works very well.

Just a note, the Cold Weld and the other fast metal epoxies including JB Kwik (any less than 24hrs, some even claim 4 minutes) are rated to sustain 300°F (150°C), I'd think the slower setting ones (Cold Weld is one of the slower ones) can handle more heat than that. JB Weld can sustain 500°C (260°C). This is a repair you can leave overnight without it coming apart as long as the epoxy doesn't run into the slot (barely visible at the far right of the second picture).

The non-metal general epoxies seem to be limited to 180°F (82°C), and they'll soften in the engine heat. I'm making the educated guess that 300°F is higher than this region sees.

je said:

JB Weld can sustain 500°C (260°C).

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I believe you mean 500°F (260°C)

I had my intake cleaned a while ago at a local shop that will not get my business any more. Apparently they broke the nipple and just glued it back together. I noticed the vacuum line was loose the other day and this is what I found. See Photos.




My question is how serious is this and how soon should I replace or fix it? Am I doing any damage with it like this? Can I take the anti-shuddder valve off and drive the car while I try to repair it? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

epp said:

I had my intake cleaned a while ago at a local shop that will not get my business any more

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You're not that far from Austin...

www.runonbeer.com - Robby will take great care of you and your car...

All the best,

Yuri.

Unfortunately I found out about Robbie too late. I should have checked on this forum earlier. I'll be getting with Robbie for my next timing belt and intake cleaning. Any answers or help with my questions. I'm hoping I can take care of this repair myself with tips from this forum.

Yes, you can run the car fine without it. What I would suggest is while you have it out of the car for repairs, plug the vacuum line with a golf tee or something so that the vacuum system does not suck in dirt & crud. To remove the pot, you just need to twist it and it will come out of the bracket. As for removing the plastic arm off the operating lever, do that carefully so it doesn't break. A large flat head screwdriver and some patience will get it off. Also, since there will be nothing controling the valve, secure it in the open position with a rubber band or zip tie. If it wiggles around and gets in the closed position, you will loose a lot of power or it can stall the engine altogether.

Wingnut, Thanks for your answers to my questions especially the tip about securing the valve in the open position. That was one of my concerns. I think I also read on the forum that using a heat gun on the plastic arm to soften it up a little was also a good idea so I am borrowing one from our lab this weekend.

In Texas, I don't think that is much of a concern (heating up the arm). When I posted that tip, it was winter time up north. But it certainly can't hurt. Even a normal hair dryer would work fine. I have removed about a dozen actuator arms and have never had to use heat, as long as you are patient, take your time and pry slowly, it will pop off.

Understood on the heat gun. It was about 85F here two days ago but we may drop to about freezing saturday night. Should be in the 60s by afternoon though. Again, thanks for all your help.

This is what will glue anything plastic and be stronger than the material around it.
It is not sold in a store. It is used by professionals and can be bought through Grainger for one.

Wingnut, what size is that fitting you put in there. What size is the threaded end? 1/4?

Frank M said:

This is what will glue anything plastic and be stronger than the material around it.
It is not sold in a store. It is used by professionals and can be bought through Grainger for one.

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Frank, if that stuff works as you say, you've just made my day fixing my ASV.

I know it's been awhile since original posting, but what size is the fitting? Thanks!

I got a PM today asking the same question, so I thought i would post what I know.

I did not measure my fitting before epoxying it in. Its either a 1/4 or 1/8 NPT base. The barb I know is 1/8" as it is the closest to the 3mm ID of the vacuum hose. Since it is getting epoxied in anyway, the base size doesn't really matter. A smaller size will just have a bit of extra epoxy around it, so the 1/8 NPT should work fine.

1/8 NPT x 1/8 hose is what I just used. Anything bigger than 1/8 NPT won't drop into the "moat" around the original nipple (which is presumably broken off). If you're doing this in place make sure that you seal the slot in the side of the moat.