haakonpe
Well-known member
Ugh.....
I believe that my clutch is going out. Time for some research (read: taking recommendations)
I believe that my clutch is going out. Time for some research (read: taking recommendations)
MN Chat Thread
- Thread starter SpamJ
- Start date
JFettig
Vendor
That's too bad Pete, you could try either a g60/VR6 setup or SBC stage 2 endurance. Make sure you get the proper VR6 clutch as one brand holds more torque than the other. I think I'd parts had both.
haakonpe
Well-known member
Thanks.
I'll look into those.
greengeeker
Vendor
Wouldn't a SBC stage 2 daily hold his setup just fine?
haakonpe
Well-known member
I was hoping that Jon can help me out with the clutch replacement. And do an upgrade to my ECU to 2.0.
I can see that Sachs has a GR60/VR6 complete replacement good for up to 300 foot pounds of torque.
What do you say John, I can be a wrench gopher and second set of hands
I can see that Sachs has a GR60/VR6 complete replacement good for up to 300 foot pounds of torque.
What do you say John, I can be a wrench gopher and second set of hands
JFettig
Vendor
Not so sure about that too many things going on
too many things going onHey, anyone got a source for valve seats?
I'm in need of a couple intakes for my ALH, but it seems that any sort of plausible press fit for a 37mm hole is not available. Closest I can find that isn't undersized is 1.5" and they'll get awfully close to the injector hole if I were to bore the seat pocket out.
I mean I could probably turn them out of some chromoly DOM tubing, but I'd rather just spend the five bucks and get the proper cast alloy parts...
I'm in need of a couple intakes for my ALH, but it seems that any sort of plausible press fit for a 37mm hole is not available. Closest I can find that isn't undersized is 1.5" and they'll get awfully close to the injector hole if I were to bore the seat pocket out.
I mean I could probably turn them out of some chromoly DOM tubing, but I'd rather just spend the five bucks and get the proper cast alloy parts...
Schuttsr1
Well-known member
Anyone know where to have a spare key cut in the cities, besides the dealer?
No help from me, but be prepared to pay huge money for one. They've got RFID chips in them for the immo.
unchipped key will still open the door and turn on the ign, but the engine won't run for more than a second. :\
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JasonCzerak
Veteran Member
I was hoping that Jon can help me out with the clutch replacement. And do an upgrade to my ECU to 2.0.
I can see that Sachs has a GR60/VR6 complete replacement good for up to 300 foot pounds of torque.
What do you say John, I can be a wrench gopher and second set of hands
Not so sure about that
Huh? Weiiiird.
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Hey guys,
I'm thinking of selling my car and wanted some input on its value.
2011 2dr golf 6sp
Just hit 50k, koni fsd w/ he sport, dg shifter and skid plate,
dpf delete w/ Malone tune, oem hid conversion. Been my daily
For almost 4 years w/ no issues.
Thanks for any help
Jeff
I'm thinking of selling my car and wanted some input on its value.
2011 2dr golf 6sp
Just hit 50k, koni fsd w/ he sport, dg shifter and skid plate,
dpf delete w/ Malone tune, oem hid conversion. Been my daily
For almost 4 years w/ no issues.
Thanks for any help
Jeff
TornadoRed
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2003
- Location
- West Des Moines (formerly St Paul)
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, indigo blue; 2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red (PARTED); 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD)
Hi Jeff. Just as there is a seasonal pattern to fuel prices, there is a seasonal pattern to the prices for used TDIs. Right now, with gasoline so much cheaper than diesel, it is relatively difficult to sell a TDI unless you slash the price.
You should probably keep your Golf until the spring, when diesel and gasoline prices will be closer together. You'll get a lot more interest from prospective buyers, and will probably be able to sell for $2000-$3000 more than you can right now.
Your Golf does sound pretty sweet, though, so if someone is actually looking for a Golf TDI then he should definitely check yours out.
Thanks for the input. I'm not really concerned with getting max value. I don't want to have to return everything to stock. I am looking for someone who is interested in it as it is now. I know I'll have to sell it at a reduced price, I just wanted a starting point. From what I can tell it's worth around 11 or 12 stock.
tango_28
Veteran Member
How hard is it to a 2011 JSW to stage 2 and DPF delete? Also how much?
Thanks
Thanks
isonic
Veteran Member
I've got almost 100K on mine, holding just fine. Not sure what haakonpe's current mods are, but I always viewed the g60/VR6 setup as a temporary fix until you build more power ;-). I didn't want to do a clutch twice
greengeeker
Vendor
Thanks for chiming in. Always helps to have some real world feedback.I've got almost 100K on mine, holding just fine. Not sure what haakonpe's current mods are, but I always viewed the g60/VR6 setup as a temporary fix until you build more power ;-). I didn't want to do a clutch twice
haakonpe
Well-known member
Currently Mods:
Upgraded injectors - Kerma TDI 205's (at 280k, I figured they needed help)
Malone Tune 1.5. (The error in the fuel mapping had me cranking on hot days - so I went big ;-)
There was definitely an increase in performance over the stock ECU. It started right up too. Except today when it was -13. Today it was unhappy -- and I think it's the starter or cable to it.
I'm going to go with a G60/VR6 clutch. They are supposed to be good to up to 325HP or so. Nick and I just need to settle on a date to git-r-done.
Upgraded injectors - Kerma TDI 205's (at 280k, I figured they needed help)
Malone Tune 1.5. (The error in the fuel mapping had me cranking on hot days - so I went big ;-)
There was definitely an increase in performance over the stock ECU. It started right up too. Except today when it was -13. Today it was unhappy -- and I think it's the starter or cable to it.
I'm going to go with a G60/VR6 clutch. They are supposed to be good to up to 325HP or so. Nick and I just need to settle on a date to git-r-done.
Ram Man 02
Member
This is another great point id like to know more about. How did everyones car start this morning? assuming you have a good battery does it take more then 1 cycle of the glow plugs? does tuning effect its starting?
I know my dodge will start on the first try but its definitely unhappy.
Namakan
Veteran Member
My 2002 Golf sometimes takes two cycles in this weather but I've never had a problem and I'm on a 5-6 year old battery. I only have a stage 1 Malone tune and have noticed no difference in winter starting.
The Wife's 2011 model starts as if it's a gas engine in this weather with a noticeably shorter glow plug cycle. No tune on her car.
Either way both are incredibly better than my old Chevy Half Ton with the 6.5T diesel (even when plugged in).
isonic
Veteran Member
I am going to go start mine now but typically at this temperature I cycle the glow plugs twice just because it will still take a few cranks for it to rumble over. I blame the larger injectors and cam. When it was stock it always fired right up. My battery is 1.5 y/o
Also at this temperature, I will loose heat momentarily under hard acceleration. I have no engine cover, egr, or hood insulation, and my radiator is not blocked off.
Mine took about 20 seconds of GPs, and some torching of the intake manifold. But mine's got a bit lower compression, and the IP timing was way retarded (just about 6 after TDC, now I've got it around 7.5 degrees, gonna back it off to 6ish soon).
If it is your only vehicle, there are a ton of tricks to getting them going in a pinch. Best to just get a coolant heater that you plug in.
If it is your only vehicle, there are a ton of tricks to getting them going in a pinch. Best to just get a coolant heater that you plug in.
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DWNUNDR
Well-known member
coolant heater is fine if you are parked at home or near an outlet... any solutions if you park in a parking ramp with no power outlets??
Mine has been taking a few cycles to start.. runs like poop when it does for the first few minutes
Mine has been taking a few cycles to start.. runs like poop when it does for the first few minutes
Keep a can of WD40 in the glove box. Get a boost gauge and plumb it directly to the intake manifold.
Pull the line off the boost gauge and spray some WD-40 through the tube into the intake and it'll kick over every time.
Even with my smaller upgrades, my car sits outside of work all day and never has a problem, it complains a bit, but always starts. It lives in a 40 degree garage at night, so I can't give a data point on that. But I wonder why people are having issues with the ALH powered cars. I am running a OEM battery if that makes a difference.
greengeeker
Vendor
Did you move Spam? Cable, MN?
40X40
Experienced
Never spray anything into a TDI intake while trying to start it. (or any other time)
Bill
Never ever under any circumstance replace parts of your automobile with those not made by the OEM.
It is dangerous and irresponsible.
TornadoRed
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2003
- Location
- West Des Moines (formerly St Paul)
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, indigo blue; 2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red (PARTED); 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD)
It is a good rule of thumb to never spray anything into a TDI intake while trying to start it.
The reason being, if you spray something in, and the engine doesn't start, there is a tendency to try again with more -- eventually, with enough to cause major damage like bent rods.
The reason being, if you spray something in, and the engine doesn't start, there is a tendency to try again with more -- eventually, with enough to cause major damage like bent rods.