98 Jetta Clutch Upgrade

dieselride

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
TDI
Jetta, 98, black
Well, it's time to replace the clutch after 170Km on my 98 Jetta. I've read that MKIV's had weak clutches and A3 don't have this problem. Since I'm replacing it, wondering if I should consider a upgrade. Any recommendations?

My engine is stock but I'm considering some performance mods in the future.
 

shortridge

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2004
Location
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
TDI
jetta, 1998, blue
When I put a junkyard engine in my 1998 jetta, I put a new clutch disk and throwout bearing in just because I had the transmission off anyway. I reused the old pressure plate.

The clutch is very easy to operate and engages smoothly, but does not grab as strongly as I would like. If I had it to do over, I would replace the pressure plate too.

Greg Shortridge
 

RabbitGTI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 20, 1997
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
B4 Passat Sedan
Ya, you have to replace the pressure plate too. Also have to surface the flywheel.
 

MicroVW

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
Location
Glendora, CA
TDI
Jetta, 1998, White
Just get a VR6 clutch kit. It should come with clutch,pressure plate,and throwout bearing. I installed this kit because my throwoutbearing went out so I did the whole kit while I had it out.
 

Toronto_Vento

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Richmond Hill, ON
TDI
01 Baltic Green Bora
The VR6 kit is prone to chatter when in neutral. If this doesn't bother you, then go for it. I personally have a little extra power on the car, and the stock clutch is holding strong. If this one goes, I'll probably replace it with a stock clutch. If the chatter could be dealt with, I'd put a VR6 on.
 

dieselride

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
TDI
Jetta, 98, black
Thanks for the TIP on the chatter in neutral. I've been looking around and can't find detailed specification on max torque capacity. All are listed as 228 mm diameter but no torque rating.

Does anyone know what the stock OEM clutch is rated for?
How much gain if I upgrade to VR6 clutch?

I found various models DAIKIN, LUK, SACHS, ACT
ACT is the only make that list the torque rating at 340 ft/lbs and states 30% increase over stock.

I'm leaning to stock OEM (SACHS) if I can't find anything concrete to base my decision.
 

dieselride

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
TDI
Jetta, 98, black
Can someone confirm if the A3 TDI has single mass flywheel or a dual mass. So I've decided to go for the VR6 upgraded clutch but not sure if I also need the G60 single mass flywheel. I was quoted one for $180 CAD.

Also, does anyone know if there any benefits of a lightened flywheel on a diesel. I can see gassers like lightened flywheels so there's less mass to spin up to higher RPM's. But I figure on a diesel, generally running a lower RPM's there's no real gain. Can anyone confirm my logic?
 

VelvetFoot

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 17, 2001
Location
Sand Lake, NY
TDI
NB, 2000, Yellow
Single mass. I'm THINK you might be able to buff up the surface with the flyweel in place if it's in good shape. I'm not sure about that though.
 

Toronto_Vento

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Richmond Hill, ON
TDI
01 Baltic Green Bora
Some say the lightened flywheel will chatter a little more, some say no. That one is up to you. We have a single mass flywheel, and I think it is generally pretty good for our needs. You don't need to order any G60 flywheel.

Just to be sure you have the right thing, you'll need to order the VR6 Clutch KIT, not just the clutch. It comes with a few parts which are needed to get the clutch onto the TDI. Get a new throwout bearing too while you are in there.
 

dieselyeti

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2012 Passat TDI SE (DSG)
I just had my tranny rebuilt in my 98 Jetta TDI at 150k miles (240k km) and while the shop had it apart I asked them to inspect the clutch. They told me it had over 50% remaining and not to bother replacing it. That being said I'm kinda shocked that someone could have worn out a clutch at 170km, but maybe it had a hard life(?) As far as a lightened flywheel, why? Diesels don't rev like gassers and I doubt it would do anything for you.
 

Stealth TDI

Pre-Forum Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 1998
Location
Newport News, VA
TDI
2017 GTI APR Stage 3 (395 hp/376 lb-ft)
Hi,

I use a VR6 clutch KIT from DieselGeek.com. It's smooth as butter. I believe it is the lightweight flywheel, not the clutch, that makes the additional clatter. CLICK HERE for an example of the clatter. In the sound file, I start the car and idle it with the clutch pedal depressed for eight seconds. Then I release it for eight seconds. Repeat.

I agree the lightweight flywheel does not do much in the way of miracle power/torque. I don't regret getting one; but I wouldn't opt to do it again.

Take Care,

Scott
 

dieselride

Member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
TDI
Jetta, 98, black
Thanks for all the advice. It's in and silky smooth. I re-surface and re-used the stock flywheel and I don't hear the clatter everyone is reporting. I'm glad I didn't go with the lighted setup.

As for the replacement at 170k, the clutch wasn't slipping but was releasing almost near the top. I didn't want to leave it for another season. I weaned my wife off an automatic with my car, price you pay for love :)
 

Stan TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Location
Eagan, Minnesota, USA
TDI
Jetta, 1997 1Z (RIP), 2002 Jetta GLS, 2002 Jetta GLS, 2006 Jetta Pkg 1
Good for you dieselride! So in the end you purchased the VR6 kit from dieselgeek and installed with your existing flywheel? I would be very interested to know what you purchased and where you purchased from.

Thanks!
 

Andrei Rinea

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2002
Location
Europe, Romania, Bucharest
TDI
VW Tiguan 4Motion 2.0 TDI 170HP (engine CBBB)
Hello all!!!


INTRO (skippable)
-----
I have a problem: My clutch just went toast. (dunno what failed) The clutch pedal started working harder and harder (it depressed very slowly) and I suspected problems with the hydraulic circuit but later during the day as I had to go back home it shortened the working trip of the pedal to about 1-2 mm then the whole clutch became noisy and harder and harder to engage a gear and there was noises coming from the clutch area at idle and when I pressed COMPLETELY the clutch I could feel a powerful knocking (repeat FEEL not only hear) in the clutch pedal... All in all something is toast in the clutch box.

I will have the car towed to my mechanic to take off the transmission and inspect the clutch. At minimum the release bearing is toast but probably the pressure plate is gone too.

I thought this is the best moment to upgrade my clutch disc and pressure plate to a VR6 kit.

MY QUESTION
-----------
Will a VR6 kit fit a 1Z engine? As I read (and I searched a lot) it will but this is an european 1Z from 1994 and the gearbox code is CTN not O2 or other. Plus there are 2 versions of VR6s here: AAA (engine code) and ... (another code).
Is the clutch disc and pressure plate dependent on what gearbox I have or is it irrelevant?
I will post part numbers from ETOS (ETKA like software) regarding pressure plates, clutch discs, release bearings and complete kits for 1Z, AAA and the other VR6 engine code.

Thank you for your time!
 
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