leaking a/c port

Hi,

I was not happy with the service I was getting on my a/c since it required re-fill every few months. So I decided to do it myself. Checked around for leaks and couldn't find one. Bought a vacuum manifold with hoses then found out the a/c ports have ID (inside) threads. When checking the ports, I found the leak... it was coming from the port near the firewall.

Does anyone know how I can replace this?
Can I just replace the fitting?
Where I can get parts?
What is the thread size for the these ports/fittings?
And where can I get an adaptor/nozzle for my vacuum manifold hoses so it can attach to these ID threads when I go to refill refrigerant?

Lastly, I'm a machinist. So what do you think if I were to make a fitting that would screw onto the existing leaking port and hold a new port?

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks

I think that inside of the port is a valve (similar to a tire valve core), it's under the rubber that you see in the port when you take the caps off.

I don't know if you can just tighten it or if replacement is needed. I would probably lean towards replacing it.

I like the idea of a port on a port, but I think you would be complicating things needlessly.

Is the sensor still on the port? Mine was leaking through the sensor.

Hi,

No sensor on the port. Just a plastic cap.

The fitting should unscrew from the line.

Should be available from Autozone or others. Amazon probably has them too.

The gauge set usually comes with the quick disconnects to connect to the fittings on the car. No threads involved. Yours disn't?

Did you buy a vacuum pump to evacuate the system before filling it?

Sounds like you have a leaking Schrader valve....... not an uncommon problem. The valves are cheap and can be bought at any A/C supply house and are changed just like changing the valve stem on a tire.

You have two choices, either release the contents of the system ( hopefully using a recovery system ) replacing the valve, and then recharging it.

Or taking it to an A/C tech who will have a special tool that will allow him to change out the valve without drawing down the system.

If you wanted to buy that tool they are about $50.00.....your call.

U4ick said:

Or taking it to an A/C tech who will have a special tool that will allow him to change out the valve without drawing down the system.

If you wanted to buy that tool they are about $50.00.....your call.

Click to expand...

What's this tool called?
I never heard of changing a schrader valve w/o discharging the system.

It's a funky tool that is O-ring sealed so you can unscrew the valve stem with the top and bottom sections together (thus sealed), withdraw the now-unscrewed core to the upper section and then seal the lower section so when you open the top to replace the valve only a tiny bit of gas is lost. You then put the new valve in the upper section, mate them and reverse the procedure.

I own a somewhat-similar tool that is used by dive gear techs to adjust the second-stage regulator valve with the unit under pressure which is a LOT easier than repeatedly adjusting, putting the hose on, testing, depressurizing, etc.

All that sounds cool but they don't have Shrader valves. At least mine doesn't, has a leeetle black ball.

Sumpin like this: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...alve/santech-a-c-replacement-valve/951984_0_0

KLXD said:

All that sounds cool but they don't have Shrader valves. At least mine doesn't, has a leeetle black ball.

Sumpin like this: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...alve/santech-a-c-replacement-valve/951984_0_0

Click to expand...

Sorry......my bad.....come to think of it, the one that I replaced was on an r12 vehicle.

I think that little black ball is just rubber and you can remove it to expose the schrader valve. I have never removed one, but the fact that the gauges hook up to them and somehow depress the schraders, leads me to believe they can be removed. They obviously don't seal anything.

I don't fink so. Not sure but it seems to me I took it out of my leaker and the ball was the valve. Not really a ball but a hemisphere.

I think it was a poor design which splains why my '16 has a Shrader valve.

It is a rubber ball valve. My son had to change his because it kept leaking. $5 is a cheap fix. PS: Grew up on Vandenburg AFB in the late 60' and early 70's.

Cool, lots more launching going on back then. I worked at SLC-2 and -4 and even a little at -3 from early '07 through '16.

It was either a missile going up or an earthquake. Scary to look back at what could have happened during that time.

Our cars don't have the regular A/C valves with a removable core. They have fitting valves. The whole piece has to be unscrewed from the line. I had to rebuild the entire A/C system on my Jetta last summer (had a case of black death) and I went ahead and replaced both service valves just to be sure there won't be any leaks in the near future. I used the Santech valves as someone else linked to in this thread. The OEM valves are about $40 each.

Make sure you replace the receiver drier as well. Only install it just before evacuating the system, then be prepared to recharge it. It's very tedious to do A/C work, so be very careful in your proceedings if you decide to do it yourself.