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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old January 22nd, 2013, 08:18   #16
Abacus
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I did this last night on the B4V I'm selling and have to say "Thank You" to the original poster who came up with the idea. It took me 3 hours from start to finish, including buttoning up the interior.

I originally was going to use the 2" wide heat acceptable foam, but based on Mcgink's post, decided to go with the one-piece foam. I backed it with the metal tape, since that stuff is tenacious, by sticking the foam to the back of the tape so the tape would attach to the door. Then I covered the outside seams with it, so if it did separate, it wouldn't go anywhere. It was not as easy as it looks since when the silver aluminum tape touches anything, it's attached.

It's not pretty, but is very functional and won't be seen anyway.

I did need to remove the radio, which allowed the dash to come up a little more, but not enough to see while your hand is in there attaching the foam.








This was the mode door and the blend door, which is why it had no heat.






And here is the final product. I added holes in the mode door so it would still provide heat/air to other areas despite the selection. I believe this is why the original foam was porous, and using a non-porous foam would stop that effect. The holes I added were a guess, and they are a little larger than they could have been, but the effect is nice. When I want to shut down all heat to the dash, I just close the dash vents manually. It's not a problem or annoying, just more flow than I expected.






When you get done, I HIGHLY recommend vaccuming out the debris you see in the bottom picture. If you don't, you will be covered in it when you turn on the fan. Lesson learned.
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Old January 22nd, 2013, 13:54   #17
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^ Thanks for posting and including the pictures. I need to do this to my A4 Jetta. I am going to cover completely with metal tape and foam as you did. Where did you get the one piece foam from?
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Old January 22nd, 2013, 22:02   #18
Abacus
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Wal-Mart.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 06:22   #19
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First of all thank you to all that contributed to this write up. Just did mine last night and the heat will once again melt your skin. I didn't remove the radio and had just enough room. Removing the four bolts(2 on each end of the dash) really helped. I used HVAC tape. Cut into 3-4" pieces and started sticking it on. The smaller pieces made it easier to place more precisely. You can go both horizontally and vertically. I also taped up the lower part of the heater box(from just below the clip on the drivers side to the fastener screw on the bottom) after I put it back together because the foam seal was deteriorated and was losing a lot of air flow there. Had so much fun I told my friend I would do his this weekend. Took just under 4 hours start to finish. Make sure you get all three rows(3 vertical rows) on the blend door. The row under the silver tape in Abacus pictures was hard for me too see, kind of wrapped around the corner. Also, I read an update in another thread by Abacus - DO NOT cut the holes in the mode door felt. Thanks again to all.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 07:23   #20
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Could the MODs make this thread a sticky?
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Old October 31st, 2013, 21:25   #21
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So I may be interpreting this wrong, but it sounds like there have been a couple different types of foam people have used? Can somebody give a link/picture of what they think is the best choice?

Also, does anybody have any long term positive/negative feedback on the foam they used (how well it's holding up)?

I'm thinking about tackling this some time soon since I've had a decent amount of foam coming out my vents on the B4 I picked up this year.
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Old November 1st, 2013, 13:24   #22
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Is it possible to use a material that could be glued on to door? I am thinking spray or apply glue to door or material then put felt or whatever into place by sliding or positioning material into place. I was having an engine temp issue that was resolved with a new thermostat. I was all excited that I would now have cabin heat but to my surprise it was not enough heat for the 39 deg. morning drive to work. I can safely assume I have the same issue with the blend door. I was getting foam fragments blowing out of vents early on after purchasing the car. I also have to manually close vents when in defrost mode. Anyway looks like I will be tackling this also.
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Old November 1st, 2013, 16:42   #23
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Unless you're hell-bent on making it like stock, you don't have to use any kind of foam on the blend doors. The foam is there so a minimum of fresh air flow circulates in the car when the HVAC is shut off.

Use duct tape, plumbers heavy foil tape, whatever works.

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Old November 1st, 2013, 19:00   #24
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Take them off and weld up the holes. Problem solved...permanently.
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Old November 6th, 2013, 14:14   #25
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I desprately need to do this! All the foam blew out of my vents and now when you close one it whistles like crazy!
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Old November 6th, 2013, 14:38   #26
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Brian, A big Thank You for sticking this thread!!!
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Old December 23rd, 2013, 03:42   #27
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Can anyone verify if the blend door foam issue affects the air conditioning? Recently my foam has passed through the vents and I get the typical low heat. But my a/c is not cooling at all. Everything seems to be operational, compressor kicks on, cooling fans turn on, system pressures were checked, but still no cool air at all. Worked fine last month before I started using the heater. I thought the blend door issue only affected heat, do I stand corrected? Thanks in advance for any information. I was hoping to continue putting off repairing the foam, but if it is my issue, I'll have to handle that ASAP.


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Old December 23rd, 2013, 06:02   #28
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I think it has some, but very little affect on the A/C Temp. My temp at the vents changed a couple degrees. It was only noticeable via a thermometer though, it didn't really feel any cooler.
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Old December 25th, 2013, 10:00   #29
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Thanks for the write up. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to do, and I used the Wal Mart felt with sticky back on it. I warmed mine up a bit with my heater before I tried to stick it on. The glue got really tacky and once I had it smoothed out it was stuck pretty well. My only complaint with my car is that with the foam gone the door that controls the air going to the outlets does not seal all the way. So, when you have the air directed at the footwell there is still some air coming out of the dash vents. Not a huge problem, but somewhat annoying. On the other hand I HAVE HEAT NOW!! Thats the most important thing. Thanks again.
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Old December 29th, 2013, 14:09   #30
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I did this today, but I added a step.

I unbolted the kneebar and dash and had the "chest plate" like panel pulled as far as I could. It pretty much looked like Abacus's pic. I was staring into the heater box and was already thinking it would be awkward.

Since I already had the dash unbolted, I decided to pull the airbag, its left bracket and pull the entire panel out. Normally, the upper bracket bolts are impossible to reach, but since the dash was unbolted, I was able to lift it enough to easily get a ratcheting box end wrench in there.

Disconnect the side ducts and the panel easily slides out. A benefit of open access is I was able to vacuum out the rotted foam and get the blow gun in there to blast the doors of any residual foam. I had the vacuum in there at the same time to keep the stuff from going everywhere.

You have plenty of room to clean the doors with solvent to ensure your repair sticks. I used cold weather HVAC tape. I also replaced the foam gasket on the removed panel and vacuumed the rotting foam from the wiring harness.

I figure I spent 30 minutes pulling and reinstalling the airbag stuff, but figure I saved time trying to work around the panel.

This is what you'll be looking at if you decide to pull the panel. The dash is still in the car.




This is the box of deteriorated foam from the heater box and wiring that I pulled with my hands. This doesn't include what I vacuumed out.




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