Timing belt/ water pump

Going to do belt and pump on my 06 tdi, I did them on my 02 is there any odd thing to look out for or all pretty much standard?

If it is a BRM Jetta TDI then go to the BRM timing belt kit on Dieselgeek.com and seek the video for the "Pro Method" for changing the belt. No need to remove the motor mount. Saves time. Smart.

The PDs are easier than the ALH in your 02. I've never tried it without removing the mount, but I can't imagine you could save much time and effort that way.

You will need the appropriate crank lock jig, since there is no TDC marking on the flywheel. Or a hole to see a mark.

Metal Man said:

The PDs are easier than the ALH in your 02. I've never tried it without removing the mount, but I can't imagine you could save much time and effort that way.

Click to expand...

Lets see....
Don't have to move the coolant reservoir, fuel canister, motor mount, motor mount bracket. No need to set up an engine support system. No wear and tear on the motor mount bracket threaded holes. Don't need to spend money on the 7 engine mounting bolts.
Works for me.

Just replaced the camshaft in my wife's '05.5 so the timing belt and pulley had to come off. I agree no need to remove the motor mount, but you may have to get at the pump from down below. Spend the money on the Metalnerd cam and crank locks, money well spent for peace of mind!

JETaah said:

Lets see....
Don't have to move the coolant reservoir, fuel canister, motor mount, motor mount bracket. No need to set up an engine support system. No wear and tear on the motor mount bracket threaded holes. Don't need to spend money on the 7 engine mounting bolts.
Works for me.

Click to expand...

Is that true for the (transverse) BEW engines as well, or just the (longitudinal) BRM engines?

Asking 'cause I'm about to do a BEW for the first time... BRM was a piece of cake.

No luck on the BEWs because the belt is straddled by the motor mount. Gotta take it off.
But, the American common rails all apply.

Longitudinal BRMs? Ive not seen any.

Lets see....
Don't have to move the coolant reservoir, fuel canister, motor mount, motor mount bracket. No need to set up an engine support system. No wear and tear on the motor mount bracket threaded holes. Don't need to spend money on the 7 engine mounting bolts.
Works for me.

Click to expand...

I'm just thinking it would be cramped for space, but I'll have to try it. I did add the option for the belt kits with the tensioner stud and no mount bolts.

JETaah said:

If it is a BRM Jetta TDI then go to the BRM timing belt kit on Dieselgeek.com and seek the video for the "Pro Method" for changing the belt. No need to remove the motor mount. Saves time. Smart.

Click to expand...

I'm glad you posted this because I was wondering if anybody was actually using this method. I'll be doing my BRM cam and timing belt soon. I had come across Dieselgeek's "Pro Method" video a couple months ago while searching for other BRM stuff. I hadn't seen this method mentioned on here, so I assumed that most people were not doing it.

It was my intent to leave the mount intact, but buy the bolts just in case I felt the need to remove it. Maybe I won't even bother buying the mount bolts now that I have confirmation that you're doing it this way.

Did you read the comments on the video? I had to laugh when that guy asked how to torque the tensioner stud nut and Dieselgeek replied and said "if you can't tighten a nut by feel maybe you shouldn't be doing a timing belt job"...lol. The guy replies and says "if you don't know how to torque BRM engine mount bolts maybe YOU shouldn't be doing a timing belt job"...lol.

Ahhh, the internet...

I used the pro method on my common rail. I can't imagine doing it any other way. Had to buy the $2 stud since my kit came with motor mount bolts. I just used channel locks to remove the stud, and doubled up nuts to install the new one.

Has anyone used the pro method (removing tensioner stud instead of raising engine) to replace their timing belt on a 06 TDI Jetta? Any issues with it?

The issue is probably that you won't be able to properly tighten it when reinstalling with the new tensioner.

I did my belt not using the "pro method" and it was easy with plenty of room obviously. Took about two hours, I understand how setting up and taking the mount out could be deemed unnecessary but if not banging t belts out for a living, its not that bad. BRM's are pretty simple in my opinion.

theroyztdi said:

Has anyone used the pro method (removing tensioner stud instead of raising engine) to replace their timing belt on a 06 TDI Jetta? Any issues with it?

Click to expand...

I've never had any issues with doing that way for a very many engines.

On the first two that I did, I did take the mount off and have not done it since except where the mechanic ahead of me loctited the stud.

The stud does not need to be torqued in the block very hard...just lightly snugged with pliers. That is how tight the factory stuck it in there.

Do whatever you feel comfortable with doing.
Removing the mount is just not a necessary step like it is on the ALH and BEW engines.

Thanks. I've never done one but it doesn't seem that hard (until something goes wrong). LOL! The downside is having to rent/buy the special tools to do a job I will probably only do once.

JETaah said:

If it is a BRM Jetta TDI then go to the BRM timing belt kit on Dieselgeek.com and seek the video for the "Pro Method" for changing the belt. No need to remove the motor mount. Saves time. Smart.

Click to expand...

Just to come back to this, I just did the cam and timing belt in my 06 BRM this past weekend, and used the "Pro Method" shortcuts for both the belt and the cam. For the cam I left the tandem pump and fuel lines all intact, and for the belt I left the motor mount, coolant res, fuel filter, etc all in place. It all went pretty well. I don't know how much time it saved me...I'm kinda slow anyway, but it sure was nice not having the engine move around.

I had assumed that the timing belt had not been replaced in this car before. The previous owner claimed that it had been, but could provide no proof or paperwork of such. I found an Altrom water pump and a NAPA timing belt...and I'm pretty sure VW didn't put those in there (or the paint marks either...lol).

I ordered the timing belt kit and tools from dieselgeek last night.

I was all set to replace the timing belt and water pump on my 2006 BRM this weekend but after doing a little more research I'm concerned that I don't have a VCDS to check the cam timing when I get done. Is this necessary if the car is running good prior to replacing the belt?

Is it necessary to do if the car was running good prior to replacong the belt?

Removing the belt will get rid of whatever adjustment the car had before, even losening the cam belt tensioner will mess with the adjustment.

Do you must have VCDS?

A careful person with previous experience can land the torsion value at a true 0.0 degrees. However it is a good idea to confirm the torsion value with vcds anyways, as most PDs react better to other than zero values ( +/- 0.5 , +/- 1.0 etc) for driveability and maximum fuel economy. The optimal value from the factory is writren on a label on top of the engine.