OEM Oil Pan Drain Plug Issues??

Hi all. So just thought i'd post a random question. The last few times i changed my oil, i picked up my oil filter right from VW and drain plug with gasket/washer. So i noticed when i go to use the new drain plug (with the gasket on it not really removable) , i go to thread it in by hand and it gets part way in then stops or gets hard to turn. So the last few oil changes not wanting to risk anything i just reused my old plug and gasket which i can more or less thread in by hand all the way then snug up with torque wrench. In the past i was always given plug and a separate copper looking gasket and threaded fine. Last few times the gasket is like a washer mounted right on the plug.

I never tried to torque the new plugs in , it just seemed suspect to me so i reused the old plug/gasket and didn't have any issues. Also the old reused plug and oil pan doesn't seem stripped or anything and i've always used a torque wrench installing. Just thought i'd post to see if anyone else experienced this or has any insight . Never really caught my interest til it happened the second time.....

I’ve never replaced the drain plug on mine. I do put a bit of rtv just under the head of the bolt when I put it back in just to keep it from leaking.

Seems odd, I always use a new one as they come with the kit from ID. Seems like someone changed it out previously, or there's another pitch I'm not aware of.

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Tdijarhead said:

I’ve never replaced the drain plug on mine. I do put a bit of rtv just under the head of the bolt when I put it back in just to keep it from leaking.

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Ok good to know. Many times i've replaced the washer / gasket the copper looking one and reused plug. Never had issues wither with reusing plug..

Oh and forgive me but what's rtv!?

eddieleephd said:

Seems odd, I always use a new one as they come with the kit from ID. Seems like someone changed it out previously, or there's another pitch I'm not aware of.

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I should try ordering from ID next time, i only hear good things about them. And ya, it was only the last couple times and parts were right from the dealer. I mean for all i know it was fine, just as soon as i met any resistance i erred on the side of caution... thx eddie

WolfgangVW said:

Ok good to know. Many times i've replaced the washer / gasket the copper looking one and reused plug. Never had issues wither with reusing plug..

Oh and forgive me but what's rtv!?

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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-High-Temp-Red-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-3-oz-Tube-Red/19279481


Gasket maker/sealant. I use a product that come in a can made by a company called Castle.

And I have a Pela 650 and I never take out the drain plug. And I get all of the oil out including the oil in oil cooler.

Trivia for today: RTV = room temperature vulcanizing

As opposed to the (very) old generation of silicone rubber sealants that had to be heated to solidify aka vulcanize.

And y'all thought today was going to be a total waste.

Vince Waldon said:

Trivia for today: RTV = room temperature vulcanizing

As opposed to the (very) old generation of silicone rubber sealants that had to be heated to solidify aka vulcanize.

And y'all thought today was going to be a total waste.

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That's why we always used to start up the truck immediately after valve adjustment with fresh sealant. Now you have to wait...

I should have thought to add Room Temperature Vulcanizing to my answer. I called it RTV because everyone else did, and had no idea what it meant till just recently.



I'll bet others have done the same, so you're right, not a total waste.

I never replaced my drain plug. now I have a fumoto valve so I never have to even take anything out again and can change my oil with zero tools in 5 minutes.

ok thanks ! what's the fumoto valve??

WolfgangVW said:

ok thanks ! what's the fumoto valve??

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It is basically a faucet type thing that you can screw in place of your drain plug. They're really cool. I would recommend having a metal skid plate. Just for my own comfort.

WolfgangVW said:

ok thanks ! what's the fumoto valve??

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HamtramckDiesel said:

It is basically a faucet type thing that you can screw in place of your drain plug. They're really cool. I would recommend having a metal skid plate. Just for my own comfort.

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http://www.fumotousa.com/

flick a switch, oil drains out, flick the switch, it is closed. very handy. I'll be adding one to my Xterra next time I change the oil, since you can add a plastic tube to them (oil gets all over my engine skid plate on my xterra). I drain my oil into old oil containers now with lids, no more fooling with drain pans and stuff.

I believe I ordered mine from ID parts with an oil change kit, can't remember.

Zheking said:

http://www.fumotousa.com/

flick a switch, oil drains out, flick the switch, it is closed. very handy. I'll be adding one to my Xterra next time I change the oil, since you can add a plastic tube to them (oil gets all over my engine skid plate on my xterra). I drain my oil into old oil containers now with lids, no more fooling with drain pans and stuff.

I believe I ordered mine from ID parts with an oil change kit, can't remember.

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I took mine if because it's too close to the panzer plate. I was afraid it's snap of and drop my oil. No Fumoto for me, new plug from ID parts everytime.

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Lots of good discussion here on oil change methods, plus, but reading Post#1 it seems like the replacement plug is just incorrect or perhaps its just a bit longer.

ok thanks guys. Next time around i'll try a different source for the drain plug and see what happens. That valve sounds pretty neat!

As others have stated, I too have never changed the OE oil drain plug. It still has the original washer on it. The pan is bone dry. My oil drain plug is a bit tight on the last half of the journey to full seat. I just assumed that was by design to keep it from backing out completely. But, heck, doesn't everyone use a cheater bar to torque that bolt........ got to make sure that one never falls out!

Yes, good discussion and each to their own about oil change methods. But, I like to look under there at least once every 10k miles.

I've noticed that oil drain plugs and fuel filter changes tend to be a stump!

AndyBees said:

As others have stated, I too have never changed the OE oil drain plug. It still has the original washer on it. The pan is bone dry. My oil drain plug is a bit tight on the last half of the journey to full seat. I just assumed that was by design to keep it from backing out completely. But, heck, doesn't everyone use a cheater bar to torque that bolt........ got to make sure that one never falls out!

Yes, good discussion and each to their own about oil change methods. But, I like to look under there at least once every 10k miles.

I've noticed that oil drain plugs and fuel filter changes tend to be a stump!

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Nice andybees! Good to hear the original plug and washer still work! Out of curiousity how do you remove the oil filter cap? Is there a special wrench for the cap? I just been using my typical oil filter wrench with a heavy duty rubber band around the cap for grip...... but is there a VW specific tool??

https://www.idparts.com/metalnerd-74-76mm-oil-filter-wrench-a4b55-p-507.html

I like the metalnerd tool, it’s made of, well...metal. I have a couple of the plastic versions for other cars and Ive noticed they tend to round out or flex over time when you use them on filters that are tight.

Tdijarhead said:

https://www.idparts.com/metalnerd-74-76mm-oil-filter-wrench-a4b55-p-507.html

I like the metalnerd tool, it’s made of, well...metal. I have a couple of the plastic versions for other cars and Ive noticed they tend to round out or flex over time when you use them on filters that are tight.

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Thx i may grab one of these. I know i posted on this years ago..... but when the next oil change rolls around i just keep using the rubber band

No need for a complete drain plug every time. I’ve been using copper m14 gaskets from Amazon and they work perfectly.

Just cut off the original gasket from the OEM drain plug using some side cutters and voila.

Buy Auto Supply # BAS03541 (25 Count) M14 Copper Oil Drain Plug Gasket Crush Washer Aftermarket Part Fits in Place of 097-135, GM 94525114, Chrysler, Volkswagen & More (I.D: 14.3mm/O.D: 19.8mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCJ22B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lD68Bb0Y5B49P

garciapiano said:

No need for a complete drain plug every time. I’ve been using copper m14 gaskets from Amazon and they work perfectly.

Just cut off the original gasket from the OEM drain plug using some side cutters and voila.

Buy Auto Supply # BAS03541 (25 Count) M14 Copper Oil Drain Plug Gasket Crush Washer Aftermarket Part Fits in Place of 097-135, GM 94525114, Chrysler, Volkswagen & More (I.D: 14.3mm/O.D: 19.8mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCJ22B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lD68Bb0Y5B49P

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Cool. That's funny tho cause my current plug the washer comes off the threads anyway, just the OEM plugs that don't screw in don't! Thx garcia!

WolfgangVW said:

Thx i may grab one of these. I know i posted on this years ago..... but when the next oil change rolls around i just keep using the rubber band

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Eh, forget the special tool - pick up a strap wrench (looks like a handle with a broken fan belt attached to it.

I bought a pack with two, the smaller one is easier to maneuver in the engine bay but both can work. Easy, peasy.

^ OK Rob thanks

I use an (perish the thought) oil filter wrench I’ve had for about 30 years. One of those things with a metal strap and an articulating handle. It’s slightly too big and slips so I put a rag between the wrench strap and the top of the filter.

Any thoughts as to if it is a bad thing to never remove the drain plug? Inspecting the engine from below is always recommended but any advantages to removing the plug?

Wilkins Ya that's pretty much what I use with an elastic in place of the rag! Thx