TWSTDVW
Veteran Member
Great. Are there any other troubleshooting methods that I should consider?
VNT Repair Procedure
- Thread starter Drivbiwire
- Start date
whitedog
Veteran Member
Look for "troubleshooting low power" here.
TWSTDVW
Veteran Member
Vacuum hose!TWSTDVW said:
whitedog
Veteran Member
So you tested them and found the bad one? Did you replace all of them?
TWSTDVW
Veteran Member
In the process of replacing them all, I found that one was disconnected. It was the line that goes from the "Y" to the check valve. I had a similar issue a few years ago. I guess this is happening on it's own.whitedog said:
Pic for reference. (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=854739&postcount=6 )
TWSTDVW
Veteran Member
Seeing a lot more boost than I remember. It's pulling. The actuator dump isn't as loud as it used to be.
vw_steve
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2001
- Location
- sault ste. marie
ive been doing lots of these. i even install brass shim stock under the lower three spacers. that way it gives it a little more clearance for the vanes. i have done dozens and none are noticing any lack of power what so ever. i started to do that because some customers were coming back a year later with the same problem. since the shim stock i have not had one come back.(knock on wood). the hardest part of the job is to separate the two halves. i use an acet. torch to heat the steel up. but im sure a propane torch would work.(a little longer but should work).
ran3dy
Member
Great writeup!
But I'm having teh same issue as someone earlier on the thread: Lever moves fine until I tighten the bolts, then it's really tough. I took it apart again and looked for wear ont eh control ring (per the earlier post) but didn't find any. Any other reason that I might get this fershigginer issue?
But I'm having teh same issue as someone earlier on the thread: Lever moves fine until I tighten the bolts, then it's really tough. I took it apart again and looked for wear ont eh control ring (per the earlier post) but didn't find any. Any other reason that I might get this fershigginer issue?
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
The melting point of brass is only 1650 F (900C) degrees or so. While it would be attractive for its lubricating properties, aren't you concerned about it softening or melting and deforming?vw_steve said:
How thick was the brass shim stock you used? Did you just cut out a washer shape?
DanG
Gringo
Veteran Member
Please make this work
Hi everyone. Guess what, I am now getting limp mode quite often and I started troubleshooting yesterday.... N75, VNT and vacuum lines are all good. I disconnected the VNT from the lever on the turbo and it moves about 3/4 inch to 1 inch freely EXECPT sometimes it sticks/grabs and then I have to apply quite a bit of force to move it again.
All this to say that all bolts on the exhaust manifold/turbo assembly have been soaking in PB blaster since yesterday... I will give the VNT repair/cleaning procedure a try.
Did anyone have good success after the cleanup? Are limp mode taking care of?
Will the cleanup last for a long time or is it just a matter of time before the problem shows up again?
Hi everyone. Guess what, I am now getting limp mode quite often and I started troubleshooting yesterday.... N75, VNT and vacuum lines are all good. I disconnected the VNT from the lever on the turbo and it moves about 3/4 inch to 1 inch freely EXECPT sometimes it sticks/grabs and then I have to apply quite a bit of force to move it again.
All this to say that all bolts on the exhaust manifold/turbo assembly have been soaking in PB blaster since yesterday... I will give the VNT repair/cleaning procedure a try.
Did anyone have good success after the cleanup? Are limp mode taking care of?
Will the cleanup last for a long time or is it just a matter of time before the problem shows up again?
whitedog
Veteran Member
You are on your way to healing your car, then you need to work on preventative care. I think Drivbiwire has talked about how to keep it from happening again. It's all in how you drive it.Gringo said:
Gringo
Veteran Member
New turbo needed?
here is a small update. I have removed the turbo assembly from the engine and it seems that the vanes are grabbing more than yesterday. I have also looked at both turbines and they are not showing any signs of damage.
One thing I did notice is the amount of play in the shaft, I can actually move it up and down about 1/8 of an inch, way too much in my opinion. I know this is not good. I also found a bit of oil on the compressor side. All this probably explains why, since late summer, I could not ear the turbo whining/wistling like before. It sounded more like a bad bearing that you hold up in between your fingers and spin with your other hand.
In light of all this, sticky vanes and the free play in the turbo shaft, I an leening toward replacing it with a new VNT15.
Comments?
Is that amount of free play in the shaft acceptable?
(2001, 164000kms)
thanks,
here is a small update. I have removed the turbo assembly from the engine and it seems that the vanes are grabbing more than yesterday. I have also looked at both turbines and they are not showing any signs of damage.
One thing I did notice is the amount of play in the shaft, I can actually move it up and down about 1/8 of an inch, way too much in my opinion. I know this is not good. I also found a bit of oil on the compressor side. All this probably explains why, since late summer, I could not ear the turbo whining/wistling like before. It sounded more like a bad bearing that you hold up in between your fingers and spin with your other hand.
In light of all this, sticky vanes and the free play in the turbo shaft, I an leening toward replacing it with a new VNT15.
Comments?
Is that amount of free play in the shaft acceptable?
(2001, 164000kms)
thanks,
whitedog
Veteran Member
Measuring turbo shaft play and using fractions indicates it is WAY worn out. 
You can probably see that the vanes have been hitting the housing. Replace it.
You can probably see that the vanes have been hitting the housing. Replace it.
I have used a cleaning kit by a company called Innotec, only did the job a couple of thousand miles ago but it was fairly easy to do and cured the problem, so far . Innotec I believe are an American company but as I live in the Uk I bought it here from thier agents in te UK, cost around £35, quite a number of people on Uk forums have done this and I haven't heard any bad reports, some do take them to Garages to do but the instructions are clear enough and I had no probs.
. Innotec I believe are an American company but as I live in the Uk I bought it here from thier agents in te UK, cost around £35, quite a number of people on Uk forums have done this and I haven't heard any bad reports, some do take them to Garages to do but the instructions are clear enough and I had no probs.DinoPjetrovic
Member
hey, i think i need to do this to my car but im not that skilled a mechanic. does anyone know anyone that could do this around northern NJ? if so, lemme know where and how much they usually charge... thanks
whitedog
Veteran Member
Dino, did you post in the East coast section here?
ymz
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 12, 2003
- Location
- Between Toronto & Montreal
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon
UserID "TDIjetta99" is in Port Jervis, NY...DinoPjetrovic said:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/member.php?u=32243
UserID "Hevster1" is in Columbia, NJ...
http://forums.tdiclub.com/member.php?u=38775
Both are first rate mechanics... send them a private message...
Yuri.
Tom W.
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
- TDI
- mash-up GettaTDI150, 1986 Jetta Delux D, 2005 Passat TDI sedan
http://www.innotecworld.com/c-1057-turbo-clean-set.aspx
link for Innotec Turbo cleaner
Think I'll need to try this stuff.
5/20/09- I couldn't find a vendor who would carry this in the USA, and just too expensive to ship from England. So I did a homemade chemical clean of my turbo, and it fully restored my boost, without removing the turbo.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=246287
link for Innotec Turbo cleaner
Think I'll need to try this stuff.
5/20/09- I couldn't find a vendor who would carry this in the USA, and just too expensive to ship from England. So I did a homemade chemical clean of my turbo, and it fully restored my boost, without removing the turbo.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=246287
Last edited:
milehighassassin
Top Post Dawg
Has anyone performed this on a PD (KP39)?
mike944
Veteran Member
Hey everybody, just a word of warning, from personal experience......hopefully this saves somebody from the same expensive experience.
If it won't come apart, don't hit the body too hard attempting to separate it from the manifold. Mine was really stuck. I hit it a few too many times, and probably way too hard. I cracked my housing pretty good. See pics.
Large photo warning!!
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/IMG_0708.JPG
Despite the large size of the crack, somehow, i didn't notice this until i had the entire thing back together, and noticed the car was leaking oil. Took me quite a while to figure out it was the cracked housing.
I dissasembled it, and found this......
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/565/IMG_0706.JPG
So i guess the lesson learned here, is if it's stuck, more penetrating oil, more heat, and more time.
If it won't come apart, don't hit the body too hard attempting to separate it from the manifold. Mine was really stuck. I hit it a few too many times, and probably way too hard. I cracked my housing pretty good. See pics.
Large photo warning!!
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/IMG_0708.JPG
Despite the large size of the crack, somehow, i didn't notice this until i had the entire thing back together, and noticed the car was leaking oil. Took me quite a while to figure out it was the cracked housing.
I dissasembled it, and found this......
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/565/IMG_0706.JPG
So i guess the lesson learned here, is if it's stuck, more penetrating oil, more heat, and more time.
majesty78
Veteran Member
***, how hard did you hit that thing???
mike944
Veteran Member
Pretty F'ing hard. It wouldn't budge at all. Even with heat, and lots of penetrating oil, and time, it was really, really stuck.
190K mi., plus 8 new england winters. The highway dept loves their road salt up here.
190K mi., plus 8 new england winters. The highway dept loves their road salt up here.
Tom W.
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
- TDI
- mash-up GettaTDI150, 1986 Jetta Delux D, 2005 Passat TDI sedan
I cracked my housing pretty good
You know, it might be worth while to try the chemical clean first, before pulling your turbo and pulling it apart. A chemical clean is faster, simpler, less expensive, easier, less down time, and there's less potential for damage and frustration. If a chemical clean doesn't work, then pull the turbo and manually clean it.
You know, it might be worth while to try the chemical clean first, before pulling your turbo and pulling it apart. A chemical clean is faster, simpler, less expensive, easier, less down time, and there's less potential for damage and frustration. If a chemical clean doesn't work, then pull the turbo and manually clean it.
SheeB
Veteran Member
Well I did manage to get the turbo seperated from the manifold but now I am in a pinch. One of the three T20 bolts that hold the vane assembly together is stripped. Let me tell ya, did not take much force either to strip it nice and round. What is the best way to get this removed so I can proceed with the cleaning? (The other two screws did come out but I was extra careful applying too much force). Ah so close, yet now so far...
One of the three T20 bolts that hold the vane assembly together is stripped. Let me tell ya, did not take much force either to strip it nice and round. What is the best way to get this removed so I can proceed with the cleaning? (The other two screws did come out but I was extra careful applying too much force). Ah so close, yet now so far...
milehighassassin
Top Post Dawg
Lots of penatrating oil, and I have had good luck with using needle nose locking pliars.
That or drill it out.
That or drill it out.
SheeB
Veteran Member
Well I used lots of PB Blaster before hand and let it soak for a couple hours. Being the screw is inset, not going to be able to grab it with any type of pliers or vice-grips.
May have to go the route and use the drill and buy myself an extractor set of some sort. Wingnut, I think mentioned a Lisle Super Out set, maybe that will do the trick?
May have to go the route and use the drill and buy myself an extractor set of some sort. Wingnut, I think mentioned a Lisle Super Out set, maybe that will do the trick?
ymz
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 12, 2003
- Location
- Between Toronto & Montreal
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon
Could you possibly Dremel a slot into the screw-head without damaging (or, rather, make that "touching") the turbo assembly?? If you can, hammer a flat screwdriver blade into the slot and try again...
Yuri
Yuri
SheeB
Veteran Member
I do have a dremel, might give that a try. I can just imagine with all the heat generated over the years in the assembly that screw is in there pretty good.
SheeB
Veteran Member
Well I tried the dremel idea and after playing with the heat and more PB Blaster after slotting the screw head, the head is now pretty mangled and still not removed.