2007 Audi A4Q Avant 2.0TFSI -> 2.0TDI

Whitbread

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Location
Johannesburg, MI
TDI
Several
Yup, 1.8T pilot bearing fit perfectly into the crank on Sprocket's BHW to 01E swap.

On the geared vs bsm delete, just delete it and save the money for a turbo. I had to opportunity to sit in two b5.5's today back to back. I can barely tell the difference between a geared bsm and the delete. Sure as hell not enough to justify $1200 price difference.
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Whitbread, Do you know if the input shaft actually fully inserted into the bearing? I was able to press a bearing into the BHW crank but after some measurements noticed that the bearing would not fully mate with the shaft.

Also do you know what clutch assembly you used? 228mm I'm guessing.

The B7s with FSI engine use a 240mm clutch assembly (DMF) and I think for this reason they also add a 5.7mm spacer (01X 103 551) between the bell-housing and engine block. The funny thing is ETKA shows the diesels having the spacer but not the FSI. If I removed the spacer I would get the input shaft about 3/4 or more into the bearing but then likely I'll have problems with the clutch not fully releasing. Unless maybe if I go with a 228mm. it just seems wrong to go down from a 240mm.

Thanks for the BSM info. I'm still up in the air with it. I would hate to have a 2007 Audi A4 paint shacker! :eek:
 

Whitbread

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Location
Johannesburg, MI
TDI
Several
Whitbread, Do you know if the input shaft actually fully inserted into the bearing? I was able to press a bearing into the BHW crank but after some measurements noticed that the bearing would not fully mate with the shaft.

Also do you know what clutch assembly you used? 228mm I'm guessing.

The B7s with FSI engine use a 240mm clutch assembly (DMF) and I think for this reason they also add a 5.7mm spacer (01X 103 551) between the bell-housing and engine block. The funny thing is ETKA shows the diesels having the spacer but not the FSI. If I removed the spacer I would get the input shaft about 3/4 or more into the bearing but then likely I'll have problems with the clutch not fully releasing. Unless maybe if I go with a 228mm. it just seems wrong to go down from a 240mm.

Thanks for the BSM info. I'm still up in the air with it. I would hate to have a 2007 Audi A4 paint shacker! :eek:
Looking at the grease marks on it, it was fully in. We used a 228mm with no spacer, works just fine.

Seriously, cancel your BSM order. At idle in neutral, you can NOT tell the difference, only in gear at idle could I tell the slightest difference between the two b5.5's I sat in today. Just use the b5.5 diesel mounts (if they fit) and you'll be fine. Since you won't have a static load condition at idle, you're wasting $1200.
 

JFettig

Vendor
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Location
Blaine, MN
TDI
B5 Passat, 2010 Jetta
Work more, worry less ;)

BHW is not a paint shaker without the BSM.

Remove the trans spacer.

Finish the swap, document, be happy ;)
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
agree with the above - removing the bellhousing spacer should not make a difference - the hydraulics in the clutch system should compensate for the reduction in clearance between the release bearing and the clutch cover.

PS - Demon, where are you in Ontario?
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Looking at the grease marks on it, it was fully in. We used a 228mm with no spacer, works just fine.

Seriously, cancel your BSM order. At idle in neutral, you can NOT tell the difference, only in gear at idle could I tell the slightest difference between the two b5.5's I sat in today. Just use the b5.5 diesel mounts (if they fit) and you'll be fine. Since you won't have a static load condition at idle, you're wasting $1200.
I should have added an extra layer of grease so that I could see the marks next time I open it up. I hope the grease that is in the bearing is enough to show me what I want to see.

I have heard several times that with the manual transmissions it's not as much of an issue. To go back to what TDIMiester said... I am hoping to keep this car as a better (smoother) runner than my current Jetta TDI. The B5.5 mounts are in right now and they seemed to fit just fine. I would love to take the money and put it towards a GTB2056 but they are nowhere to be found! GTB1756 is not worth the upgrade and GTB2260 will hit my low end torque more than I want it to. I would like to keep the same 1500-2500RPM torque as a VNT17 can put out.

Work more, worry less ;)

BHW is not a paint shaker without the BSM.

Remove the trans spacer.

Finish the swap, document, be happy ;)
I'm totally on board with you. My next plan is to see what I need to get this thing fired up! I know I'll have some changes later but I'm hoping I can do them all at once AFTER I test/iron out the bugs. I'll have to make sure that the 240mm clutch doesn't touch the bell-housing if I remove the plate.

agree with the above - removing the bellhousing spacer should not make a difference - the hydraulics in the clutch system should compensate for the reduction in clearance between the release bearing and the clutch cover.

PS - Demon, where are you in Ontario?
After I get this "all together" so that I can run it I will make a list of upgrades. So far this is what I have in mind:

GTB2056
SMF+performance clutch
6speed TDI transmission
BSM fix (whatever it is) right now I have a good stock chain setup
Injectors if needed for ~220HP

I'm located ~5mins from Canada's Wonderland.
 

TDIMeister

Phd of TDIClub Enthusiast, Moderator at Large
Joined
May 1, 1999
Location
Canada
TDI
TDI
I have heard several times that with the manual transmissions it's not as much of an issue. To go back to what TDIMiester said... I am hoping to keep this car as a better (smoother) runner than my current Jetta TDI. The B5.5 mounts are in right now and they seemed to fit just fine. I would love to take the money and put it towards a GTB2056 but they are nowhere to be found! GTB1756 is not worth the upgrade and GTB2260 will hit my low end torque more than I want it to. I would like to keep the same 1500-2500RPM torque as a VNT17 can put out.
I join the chorus to do away with the BSM. If vibrations bother you DON'T even consider aftermarket engine mounts and stick to a DMF. Them's the trade-off if you want a smooth and cultured ride. It's ironic to me that you worry about keeping the BSM but want to go with an SMF - granted, both address different NVH modes but still.

Contact RyanP for a GTB2056. He should be able to get you one reasonably shipped to your door. Tell him I sent you. I can do a money transfer to him for you and save a small percentage but still noticeable amount on the exchange rate and Paypal/wire transfer fees. You want to know what kills transient turbo response? Large exhaust manifold volumes and long paths that I commonly see in tubular headers. Use an OEM manifold and keep all paths short. There's also work on a direct electronic actuator controller that will also improve turbo response.

I'm located ~5mins from Canada's Wonderland.
Cool, I can come on a day in the summer for a double-header of fun. :)
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
There is a LOT of room for another turbo in that engine bay ;)
Not as much as i'd like. Don't forget that none of the accessories are installed yet (ALT, PS, AC). Granted removing the DPF/CAT and EGR system should offset that a little. :D

I join the chorus to do away with the BSM. If vibrations bother you DON'T even consider aftermarket engine mounts and stick to a DMF. Them's the trade-off if you want a smooth and cultured ride. It's ironic to me that you worry about keeping the BSM but want to go with an SMF - granted, both address different NVH modes but still.

Contact RyanP for a GTB2056. He should be able to get you one reasonably shipped to your door. Tell him I sent you. I can do a money transfer to him for you and save a small percentage but still noticeable amount on the exchange rate and Paypal/wire transfer fees. You want to know what kills transient turbo response? Large exhaust manifold volumes and long paths that I commonly see in tubular headers. Use an OEM manifold and keep all paths short. There's also work on a direct electronic actuator controller that will also improve turbo response.

Cool, I can come on a day in the summer for a double-header of fun. :)

OK OK I think I will do away with the BSM... Well not yet. I still have the chain one in there but as soon as I pull the engine out again (and I'm sure I will) I'll do away with it. I'd love to keep the DMF but it sounds like the way to go is SMF for any kind of real tune. If the FSI DMF can handle the GTB2056 I'll keep it! I contacted him a little while back and it sounded like he didn't have any. I'm not in a super rush yet as I want to get it all up and running first. Exhasut manifold will be stock, intake piping will also be stock with the exception of the second SMIC. I'd like to be in 6th on the hwy and able to pass someone without needing to downshift. :confused:

Let me know if you're ever in town and we can get together and hopefully take it out for a drive.
 

JFettig

Vendor
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Location
Blaine, MN
TDI
B5 Passat, 2010 Jetta
Yes, there is LOTS. I have a B5 and have considered it many times. pull that airbox and look at all the space!
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Ok it's been a while since I updates this thread. I mentioned earlier that I didn't think it would be worth it to modify the FSI accessories bracket. SO! I figured I would take a trip to Germany to pick on up. Actually I got sent here on business so I figured I would see what I could do.

Funny thing. When I got into my rental the car seemed awfully familiar to me even though I had never heard of it. It didn't take long to realize that this was SEATs version of the Audi A4 (B7) platform. And it came with a 2.0TDI (CR140) with a 6 speed manual. Definitely an interesting ride. It did lack some suspension and steering but that was quickly forgotten by driving the interesting TDI. The cluster would actually tell my to shift from 5th @ ~1300 RPM and go into 6th which would bring the revs down to ~1075 RPM and all while going 70Kms/h. Interestingly it was very smooth cruising at "idle". It was still able to pick up some speed if needed but once you got it to about 1500 RPM it was smooth sailing from there. Definitely some good bottom end pull. It did fell like it faded slowly above 3250 RPM or so. The SEAT version of the RNS-E NAV system was nice and familiar to me also.

2011 SEAT Exeo 2.0TDI (CR140)


On my trekking around I bumped into this car... Hmm isn't that what I'm building?


So on my off time I was able to source some parts that I needed. The guy had a few extra things so I picked them up. 2 BPW brackets with roller, tensioner and PS Pump (one pump has some minor damage), BPW Alternator, BPW MAF to Turbo Inlet hose. The Passat TDI fits not not well.
I also picked up a NEW serpentine belt and roller from ebay.de while I was here.

2007 Audi A4 2.0TDI (BPW) accessories bracket with PS Pump and Alternator


All packaged up and ready to go as "Check In Baggage" @ 21Kg.


I'm still short a few pieces I would like to get but I'll be ok without them. Looking for a BPW start, Engine cover, and "2.0 TDI" emblem for the rear. The dealer said they wouldn't be in on time so I'll have to wait. While I was there I did see an A7 TDI!. After asking for a brochure it looks like you can get a 3.0L V6 TDI pushing out 309HP and 480Ft/Lbs. Coupled to an 8 Speed Tiptronic Quattro transmission and still getting 8.0L/100Kms city and 5.6L.100Kms Hwy! All at a price tag of 62,300 Euro!

Seriously why don't they start bringing these options to North America?
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Work more, worry less ;)

BHW is not a paint shaker without the BSM.

Remove the trans spacer.

Finish the swap, document, be happy ;)
Totally agree!!! It's been to long since anything got done on this. I found some free time this weekend and puts some more hours in. Tightened up all the transmission mounts and installed the starter. Got my Euro BOW accessories bracket in with Alt, PS, and AC and put the belt on. Played with the cooling hoses and started to put things all back in. The wiring harness is all installed except for a few knowns (DPF related).

As you can see from the picture below I also have my fuel system sorted out :p. I should get about 150Kms on this tank! :D


Once I got to this stage I figured I could drop in the Euro cluster and turn the key on! :confused:


I was able to get the dash and ECU powered up but I ran into a list of issues. First thing I noticed is that when I opened the drivers door the cluster LCD displays lit up (normal). When I turned the key on the cluster lit up and the displays turned off (not normal to my knowledge). A few seconds (~10s) later the displays came back on.
Next I noticed many of the lights on like ESP, Engine, Airbags,.... I figured this would be normal for a "virgin cluster" and new ECU that needs coding. GP light was constantly flashing and the battery light was flashing at some random pace. GP light is likely due to the lack of DPF. But the battery light I haven't seen anything like before. Almost like a morse code. Anyone seen this behavior before?

After login in to some of the modules I was able to figure a few things out. Unfortunately it looks like VCDS doesn't have the label files for this ECU. I sent them an email with the logs they require so I'll have to wait back from them. This is a big one right now because this also means I don't know what the adaption coding is for this unit and right now it's set to all 0's.

Even this this pile of errors I figured I would try and turn it over. When I hit the start position with the key I could hear the starter solenoid clicking but nothing happened. I ran out of time to try and figure it out so I called it a day. My guess is one of the three things:
1) The starter gear isn't getting pushed in to the flywheel gear all the way so it's not engaging the starter motor. I'm not sure why this would be as I'm using all the FSI flywheel/transmission.
2) The FSI starter is to weak and can't turn the engine over (i doubt this because it should still try and at least get hot which it didn't)
3) Something happened to my FSI starter in the few months it was sitting. What are the chances?

Hope to get some more time in on this soon. Looks like other than the starter issue I'm going to be tackling some software/electrical stuff now. :eek:
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
And she runs for the first time!!! :D

The starter is definitely under sized. After looking at ETKA i figured out the that FSI starter is 1.1KW, the TDI starter is 1.7KW and it just so happens that the V8 starters are also 1.7KW. I picked up a new V8 starter and thought I could get it in but it was a no go. The BPW starter was also a no go. Eager to get this thing running I decided to wire 2 batteries in series (24V) and apply it to the starter only. Something I've done in the past and works unbelievably well... Obviously at the expense of life of the starter. I turned the ignition on and without even putting fuel in the fuel can I gave it a go. Started up right away. I filled up the can after just to make sure I didn't run it dry.

I also decided to put back in the stock FSI cluster because everything in the car was complaining that the cluster/keys/immobilizer was not synchronized. Once I put back in the FSI cluster most of the errors were gone. The tack seemed to read accurately even though the scale is different and it looks like the EPC light is now my glow plug light as it's in the same location. So from what I can see if you're ok with 8000 RPM tach vs. ~6000 RPM tack, 280Km/h speedo vs. 260Km/h speed, and an "EPC" light for as glow plug light then it looks like you can use the original FSI gasser cluster. Probably the easiest way to go.

I still have some software issue to work out in the ECU but for the most part it's good to go. I also need to make the exhaust pipe to replace the DPF. Then I think I'll start putting the front end together. At that point the only things left to get it drivable will be the fuel system and starter. I hope to have a starter from Europe within a few weeks. Not sure what other starter I could have used.

Anyone feel free to chirp in on what north American starter you've used for a manual quattro tranny mated to a TDI.
 

k_harley

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Location
Lowell, MA
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2005 Audi S4, 1997 Audi A4 Race car, 2004 Passat TDI 6MT 4motion
You should be able to use the starter from the BHW passat, thats what Ive been using in my B5 tdi swaps so far. It is the same part number as the euro B5 tdi starter for the 1.9's.

Im also running into some similar issues with my ALH in the 2001 passat that are CAN gateway related. I have a few ideas of what Im going to do, but havent gotten very far into it.
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
I think the B5s are different than the B7s. The B7 uses a 240mm clutch and maybe the ring gear is at a different offset because when I compared the BHW starter to the FSI starter it was clear that the BHW starter would have the gear engaged all the time because it protruded further into the transmission bell housing. I may be able to use the BHW starter if I go down to the 228mm flywheels used in the B5s or maybe even B6s. I have a starter from B7 TDI on order from Europe but I want have a backup plan if it dies on me.

As for the CAN... Mines working pretty good thanks to Mark. I have a few things to delete and then at the end of the day the biggest issue I'm having is replacing the cluster in the car because it talk to to EVERYTHING in the car and needs to be synchronized. The ECU itself should just need to be "coded and adapted". Right now VCDS has no label files for this ECU so that's causing me some trouble.

Anyone in Europe have a B7 TDI with a BPW engine code and access to a VCDS cable? I could use some coding and adaption settings.
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Any news here?
Definitely long overdue for an update. Not to much progress yet.

I've been trying to hunt down an EEPROM file for my "ECU" 03G 906 016KM. The one in it right now is 016KN which is for front wheel drive. I'm not sure what would be different but I'd like to keep setup properly if possible.

BPW starter is on it's way from Poland. Also still need to fab my temporary downpipe before I put the front end back together.

I should have my TDI cluster adapted to the car in the next few weeks.

Last real open item before I can test drive it is the fuel system. Figured once I get the front all together I can put the car down and turn it around to start working on the tank. My source for an official B7 TDI tank flopped so it looks like I'll just modify the existing tank and see if I can swap in the BHW lift pump into the FSI assembly. Pictures of that to come when I get to that part.
 

YoungDieselstein

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Location
Orem, UT (Formerly San Diego, CA and Clarksville,
TDI
Ferdinand "Ferdie" The Wagon: 2003 Jetta Wagon, Reflex Silver. RIP 3/2019
You sucked in another newbie with this build. You're basically building my dream vehicle. I've never been able to understand why there are ZERO, that's right, (0), options for a TDI or at least diesel powered AWD wagon in the US. Thanks to you I now know that there aren't any options in the great white north, either. Subscribed and thank you so much for the extra time you take to document your project. I have almost as many mechanical skills as there are TDI AWD's available in north america, so I'll just be a silent admirer from now on. ;)
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Thanks YoungDieselstein.

Not much progress in a while but I did get the TDI cluster from Europe all working in the car. It's now adapted to the Keys, IMMO is correct, VIN is in and it looks like it's working great. Hoping to get the downpipe "testpipe" made up tomorrow so that I can start putting the front end back together. Once that's done I have the fuel system to worry about and then I can drive it! :) That's the plan at least.

Still lots to do after I get it going but they can be done slowly.
My list of TO DO'S

Performance Tune/ECU work (NEED EEPROM FILE)
BSM-Delete
TDI Tranny
SMF + Performance clutch
Diesel "gas" tank with pump
Glow Plug update
Instal Electric Cabin Heater "Aux Heater"

WISH LIST:
GTB2056 + EGR-Delete + New exhaust up to rear mufflers.
S-Line or S4 suspension
RNS-E Navigation
Roof Rack
Front/Rear Parking sensors
TPMS
Trailer Module
Lane Change Assist?
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Yesterday I worked on the fuel system. Good thing I didn't just hook up the 2 fuel lines in the engine bay to the TDI engine. The FSI basically has one fuel supply line and the other seems to be a vapor line and not a return like the TDI. The intank fuel pump on the FSI is high pressure and it goes out to the fuel filter that is located under the car by the fuel tank. The filter has a 6 Bar pressure relief in it that bleeds fuel back onto the tank via the intank fuel pump assembly. The vapor line goes to the very rear of the car where it looks like it enters a charcoal canister and then reconnects to the tank through a couple other vent lines.

So the modifications begin on the fuel system. I removed the front section of the vapor line and used the old Passat TDI return line. I reformed it and routed it next to the supply line so that it resembles the TDI setup that should be used. In the rear of the car I disconnected the vapor line and connected it to the return line on the intank fuel pump. I left the supply line as it is going thought the under car gas filter. The relieve line I left open for now and it should not leak because I've installed the Passat lift PUMP so the pressure is much lower. Eventually I will replace the filter with an inline fuel filter without the pressure regulator.

Picture of the Passat TDI lift pump assembly on the left and FSI Quattro fuel pump on the right.


Picture of the FSI PUMP removed from the assembly.


Picture of the TDI PUMP installed into the FSI assembly.


Picture of the TDI PUMP including cover in the FSI assembly.


Picture of the rivets I used to reassembly the "HYBRID" pump assembly. The TDI assembly was bolted and clipped together so taking it apart was easy. The FSI one was plastic or friction welded so I had to pry it apart.



Ideally I would like to get a TDI tank assembly with lift pump from Europe but that is easier said than done. I still have to remove the FSI pump control module because it is expecting to "talk" to the FSI computer for instructions on when to run the pump. Basically there are 5 wires going to the back (Power, Ground, Fuel Level Supply, Fuel Level Return, Communication). All but the Fuel Level lines go to the Fuel Pump Control Module. The 4 wires from the Pump Assembly (Pump Power, Pump Ground, Level Supply, Level Return). Pump Power and Ground normally go to the module but I will move them to the power lines coming from the front as it should be on TDIs. Unfortunately the Module requires the pump to be removed to get it out so it will be traveling with me for a long while. :) Some day I also plan to remove the gas tank vapor emissions parts that is not needed for TDIs.
 

Scott_DeWitt

Vendor
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Location
Texas USA
TDI
2000 Audi A4 1.9TDI quattro
Yesterday I worked on the fuel system. Good thing I didn't just hook up the 2 fuel lines in the engine bay to the TDI engine. The FSI basically has one fuel supply line and the other seems to be a vapor line and not a return like the TDI. The intank fuel pump on the FSI is high pressure and it goes out to the fuel filter that is located under the car by the fuel tank. The filter has a 6 Bar pressure relief in it that bleeds fuel back onto the tank via the intank fuel pump assembly. The vapor line goes to the very rear of the car where it looks like it enters a charcoal canister and then reconnects to the tank through a couple other vent lines.
Newer gas cars (2005 and up IIRC) have returnless fuel systems, ie the fuel pressure regulator is mounted in the fuel pump/tank/filter and there is a single feed line going to the engine. All the fuel going to the engine is used and not returned to the tank. This decreases the fuel temperature in the tank and decreases evaporative emissions.
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Yes, definitely much simpler in the TDIs.
Now there is one more line that runs from the very back which looks like it comes from the charcoal canister. That line goes all the way to the engine. I haven't looked at where in the engine it goes but my guess is that it's used to burn the evaporative emissions. I still have to locate/remove the following:

Fuel Pump Control Module
Charcoal Canister
Fuel System Pressure Test Pump
Flappy thing in the fill neck.
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Ok I know it's a little off topic but now that I have my TDI cluster in and coded to my keys and the rest of the car I figured I would play with it a little. I've been thinking of this for a while now. I "tapped" into the CAN bus. Specifically the "information CAN bus" and did a little decoding. I was able to send this message to my cluster.

HELLO WORLD


Why you ask. Well this opens up some options for me. In particular I was thinking the following.

BST/EGT


I may play with the format a little but I figure it would be pretty nice if I can integrate a Boost and EGT gauge. I'll work on the details later on when I get the car back on the road. For now it seems possible.

Hoping to get the exhaust down pipe in this weekend. This will allow me to put the front of the car back together.
 

YoungDieselstein

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Location
Orem, UT (Formerly San Diego, CA and Clarksville,
TDI
Ferdinand "Ferdie" The Wagon: 2003 Jetta Wagon, Reflex Silver. RIP 3/2019
Let's see. You're pretty creative when it comes to electronic systems but you know what your limits are. You're obviously mechanically inclined. You have a job that sends you to Europe occasionally. And you live in Ontario. I have a sneaking suspicion you're an EE or ME who works for... a very large mining corporation, perhaps? Whatever the case may be, it sure is fun watching you work.
 

m1ketdi

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Leam
TDI
Leon BKD
That's some pretty cool CAN tapping there.... What are you using to do that CANalyzer? or something else?

Either way, much respect for spending the time to work it out.
 

Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
Let's see. You're pretty creative when it comes to electronic systems but you know what your limits are. You're obviously mechanically inclined. You have a job that sends you to Europe occasionally. And you live in Ontario. I have a sneaking suspicion you're an EE or ME who works for... a very large mining corporation, perhaps? Whatever the case may be, it sure is fun watching you work.
Thanks... Officially (with papers) Electronics and Software are my background although I try not to get too involved with the software side of things. This is not my first project of conversion but definitely the most advanced. No mining company for me but I am into "renewable energy". I'll leave it at that.

That's some pretty cool CAN tapping there.... What are you using to do that CANalyzer? or something else?

Either way, much respect for spending the time to work it out.
Thanks again. CANalyzer is a great tool but far to expensive for my taste (or at least it was). I'm using PEAKcan (www.peak-system.com). It's a simple but reliable CAN to USB converter that has it's own viewer with transmit function. It also logs now. I have many years experience with CAN bus systems so the background was there for me. The trick is to figure out what is what and then try and figure out a creative way to manipulate it. Sometimes it's challenging because you can't change the logic programmed into the controllers. The issues I'm running into with this mod are a) i don't know if there is a message to tell the display to activate "text mode" so right now I'm pressing the blue-tooth control button on the steering wheel. b) because of "a)" I have to send the data messages about 100 times faster than the blue-tooth messages or else you just see it toggle back and forth between the two. I'm hoping to continue this later when I get all of my DTCs and warning messages to go away. Right now they are part of my CAN project problems. I also have to check the "Power-train" CAN bus to see that both BOOST and EGT are available. Hopefully more to come on this later. :D
 

m1ketdi

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Leam
TDI
Leon BKD
Thanks... Officially (with papers) Electronics and Software are my background although I try not to get too involved with the software side of things. This is not my first project of conversion but definitely the most advanced. No mining company for me but I am into "renewable energy". I'll leave it at that.



Thanks again. CANalyzer is a great tool but far to expensive for my taste (or at least it was). I'm using PEAKcan (www.peak-system.com). It's a simple but reliable CAN to USB converter that has it's own viewer with transmit function. It also logs now. I have many years experience with CAN bus systems so the background was there for me. The trick is to figure out what is what and then try and figure out a creative way to manipulate it. Sometimes it's challenging because you can't change the logic programmed into the controllers. The issues I'm running into with this mod are a) i don't know if there is a message to tell the display to activate "text mode" so right now I'm pressing the blue-tooth control button on the steering wheel. b) because of "a)" I have to send the data messages about 100 times faster than the blue-tooth messages or else you just see it toggle back and forth between the two. I'm hoping to continue this later when I get all of my DTCs and warning messages to go away. Right now they are part of my CAN project problems. I also have to check the "Power-train" CAN bus to see that both BOOST and EGT are available. Hopefully more to come on this later. :D
If you need any help with getting rid of the dtc's I know a bit about it. Although I am by no means an expert. Or are you trying to get rid of them in the proper way?

I have the novelty of having canalyzer among other tools available at work. Peak-can prices look much more appealing to the hobbyist.
 
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Demon Diesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Location
Ontario
TDI
2007 Audi A4 Quattro Avant 2.0TDI 6spd manual
If you need any help with getting rid of the dtc's I know a bit about it. Although I am by no means an expert. Or are you trying to get rid of them in the proper way?

I have the novelty of having canalyzer among other tools available at work. Peak-can prices look much more appealing to the hobbyist.

The majority of my DTCs right now are from the front end of the car being removed. Once I get my down-pipe (test-pipe) made/installed I can put it all back together. Then I'm hoping I will only be left with a few engine DTCs where most of them will be DPF related. Malone Tuning will take care of that for me. Right now he has my ECU for a full BDM flash of the original BPW ECU because I'm actually using the BHW ECU out of the Passat. They are both EDC16U31s. Lets see where this takes me.

I have access to CANalyzer and a few others too (KVaser, PEAK-Can). We only have 1 or 2 CANalyzers here in comparison to sever dozen PEAK units. The KVaser we use is mainly a logger. I've had some good luck with PEAK-CAN and simply looking at the bus and seeing what changes when. CAN systems open up a whole new world. I plan on using my own programmable controller and placing it on the CAN bus (probably the 3 main ones) and have it perform various functions that I want to add.

After I get the car running!

Looks like my transmission is on it's way (GYH) now I need to find a nice SMF 240mm clutch good enough for a boosted 2.0TDI???
Some have recommended the 228mm kits but it just seems wrong to me. May have no choice.
 
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