VCDS/VAGCOM assistance in southern ontario??

hey guys im wondering if somebody mainly in the Hamilton region (not a problem for me to drive out to Niagara area or Toronto )(1 hour from Hamilton in either direction)

i am slightly concerned about 1 or 2 things about my 03 tdi, the fuel mileage is quiet bad i think. i filled it up and am just above the 3/4 mark and the current distance for tank is at 155km, so at this rate ill maybe get 500-600km a tank!!!!!!(the previous owner who was clueless to the car he simply drove it said he gets like 400-500km a tank city driving!!!1)

i bought a haynes service manual for 5$ lol so i hope it has some answers as to what to look to but the vagcom system can tell me what my injectors are doing and turbo quality and if the actuator is working or not properly

something isn't right here, it runs fine, starts fine, it had a stored code in the freeze frame p0234 (the turbo over boost one) the guy said he changed the actuator a while back, and there is no engine light on that was just the last previous code stored but not currently active. if somebody could assist me i can give them $50 bucks or a jug of 5w-40 castrol synthetic with mann oil filter the good stuff we use thanks guys please let me know asap i want to fix this before cold winter sets in.

Here is oilhammer’s definitive thread on fuel economy.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=342274

and here is the limp mode thread
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589 , your turbo vanes could be dirty, when its cold like this limp mode has a tendency to rear its ugly head more.

A few notes, with the cold weather 750-900 kms to a tank is probably realistic (what I mean is don't expect 1100 on a stock alh when its -5c out). Check the operating temperature with a odbII device, should be 85+c when warm, people put crappy thermostats in these cars and they never heat up right. Also look into checking the intake manifold for build up (can review on this site about that more).

Cant help you with VCDS, but maybe with your TDI flipping profits you can buy yourself one.

2 questions. Did you vent the tank and fill up right to the top? And are you driving the car like a race car (shifting rpm each gear around 3k)?? i have a friend with a BRM and he can't understand why he gets crappy mileage and i don't.........he shifts around 2700+ each gear.........i do the normal 2000 shift...........

Johhny04 said:

2 questions. ....<snip>.... i have a friend with a BRM and he can't understand why he gets crappy mileage and i don't.........he shifts around 2700+ each gear.........i do the normal 2000 shift...........

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I have a 2006 Jetta BRM and drive it fairly hard... most of my shifts when it's warmed up are at or above 2700rpm (especially in the 1st 3 gears)...

I've gotten 5.5L/100km day in and out for the past 4 yrs....

------------

to the OP,

Do you smell brakes? I've had times when my fuel economy dropped due to a sticky caliper.... I've replaced or repaired the calipers or lines to I think all 4 corners of my car since I got it 4 yrs ago.... That might be a possibility if in fact there is no CEL....

1) i shift no higher than 2400rpm i am not a heavy foot at all.
2) the previous owner had the water pump belt job done 50k ago, is it possible when the timing is done and if it is done incorrectly it can affect this fuel economy ?? or is it simply if the timing is off the motor is shot?? lets say he did the job with creep and pray/mark method, he installed everything and then torqued the tension er which would casue the belt to pull the camshaft sprocket and change the true alignment, would that couple degrees be enough to do this, or its simply option A done right and everything runs good, or option b) done wrong and it blows up ....potentially option c) done with the creep method and the timing is off ever so slightly but still functions enough to run?

i did not vent the tank i just filled it regularly thats it .........nobody has vagcom i can get assistance with and pay?? how do i find out if the timing is off

The Injection quality is most definitely off if no VCDS was used to adjust it. The timing could be slightly off if the mark and pray was used, if it was really off you would have bent a valve and dropped by now. And yes, timing and Iq can definitely effect fuel mileage.

If the cam lock was in and the crank was verified to still be in the window after tightening everything(and manual rotation) the crank/cam timing would be sufficient, even though you should loosen the cam by procedure.

steve6 said:

The Injection quality is most definitely off if no VCDS was used to adjust it. The timing could be slightly off if the mark and pray was used, if it was really off you would have bent a valve and dropped by now. And yes, timing and Iq can definitely effect fuel mileage.

If the cam lock was in and the crank was verified to still be in the window after tightening everything(and manual rotation) the crank/cam timing would be sufficient, even though you should loosen the cam by procedure.

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This. If it hasn’t dropped a valve by now it’s not that far off but maybe far enough to hurt the fuel mileage. However there are several other items to check in oilhammer’s thread that I linked above, including dragging brakes that were suggested.

Go through oilhammer’s thread and after you’ve done and checked all his suggestions, report back on your mileage.

steve6 what do you mean the injection quality is most off if no vcds was used ? you referrring to the timing belt job, ive never heard of people using the vagcom to adjust injection quality?? i mentioned he got the timing belt job done a while ago where did injection quality and vcds come into factor? please clarify.

but ya it was done at 148000k km the car now has 210k so i think after a bad timing belt job at 62k something would've gone if that is what your thinking.

ill go through oilhamemrs thread as well and let you guys know. i was going to buy new injectior nozzles from rose dale technical in NS the bosio factory replacement ones .184" but im a bit worried to because these things come from factory calibrated, do they expect us to order them and install ourselves un calibrated?? thanks

and how do i go about verifying if my timing is right or not if the belt job lets say was done wrong?? if i cant get a vcds can i have another timing belt kit done the proper method, and this will correct any issues thus said if its set back to normal?? there has to be some type of damaged parts if it was done wrong 62K ago but if a valve hasnt gone yet what else is there that can break ?? or fail......

steve 6 ... how would i go about cleaning the turbo veins, i have 3 weeks off coming up is this something i can take apart clean with varsol dissemble the entire turbo and clean / reassemble and install or is it more complicate than that,,,, my egr also had a decent amount of soot build up so thats making me think that crap went into the turbo and the piston heads and is caked up... how do i clean is there a additive to break down carbon buildup on pistons or a complete disassembly clean up required/ new pistons??

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NISas2tOzME

The first intake I cleaned took about four hours and was one of the messiest jobs I’ve ever done. I like this method, 15 minutes and you’re done.

If the engine hasn’t dropped a valve then it was done right or close to right and just needed to be fine tuned with vcds. I just completed a belt job and the car starts and runs fine I just have to drive it to bring the engine up to temperature so I can dial in the timing. Vcds has a graph for timing.

It looks like this.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html


You might also try this site.

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/threa...ta-new-beetle-golf-alh-engine-1998-2003.2242/

You can drive with the injection timing off forever and not have too many issues that would prevent the engine from running. It won't be running as it should but it will run. You need a VCDS to adjust this or else you will never get it right.

sooooo. upon talking to multiple tuners and several timing belt pros, i have determined 3 things...
1) the most probable and will find out this following thursday. THE INJECTION PUMP NOT BEING TUNED AFTER the job was done at 148k till now 210k so 62k of it being this way hence why the previous owner thought it was normal and forgot about his goog mog days.. once the belt is removed from the timing system the injection pump is immediately affected and must be tuned accordingly. it was not as the job was done at a regular mechanic who did the PHYSICAL SWAP but not the ELECTRONIC tune to the pump. the cam could be set to DTC and the crank/verifying through the eyelet whole to see the flywheel ALL COULD'VE been good , at the end of the day if the injection pump was not tuned after through VCDS it doesnt matter its way out.

2) the people i got the car off of had a aftermarket catalytic installed about 3 weeks prior, i don't like the fact of a aftermarket oem "spec" cat being put on unless its truly oem for these cars as they are so senetive in the 1.8T, and 2.0 models if its not goof quality the CEL will trigger even with a new aftermarket cat. and i got my sticker so im good till 2019, ill be in the clear as the ETEST is SCRAPPED OFFICIALLY APRIL 1st, 2019 so im going to cut out the CAT and weld in some nice 2.5" straight pipe all the way to the muffler which i will leave factory as i dont want to eliminate back pressure to the turbo as it is a vacuum/pressure based engine/ like most turbo motors

3) the fuel filter hasnt been changed in 80k..... yes i know way over like 3x over... so this could be bringing forth poor mpg as well, i bought a filter kit that includes, a prefilter W air intake, cabin, oil ,and fuel filter for $44CND!!!! from a special supplier..

It sounds like you’re stressing way to much about the timing being exact. Yes it can hurt your mileage and it certainly isn’t ideal however it wouldn’t be the first tdi to have a belt done and be run to the next belt change without dialing in the timing. If the car starts and runs the timing is not that far off and indeed may be fine.

The cat is no big deal, there is no O2 sensor on an 03. You can straight pipe it as you plan or leave it, either way no O2 code to deal with.

A good price on all the filters is fine but make sure they are good quality, you don’t want to ruin your engine just to save $20. If the fuel filter is that old probably the air filter is at least that old those two alone can affect mileage along with the snow screen, dragging brakes etc, all in oilhammer’s thread.

If this was my car I would go through oilhammer’s mpg thread and then try to find someone with a vcds to check the timing and the IQ (injection quality) before spending any money on upgraded parts or other stuff.

steve6 i now understand what you mean by timing injection with the vcds, but you said
" And yes, timing and Iq can definitely effect fuel mileage " what do you mean by Iq??

not stressing as much Tdijarhead as much as want it to be acceptable and not dumping x2 fuel as required. i was giving a breakdown of what was a suspect and what was mostly probably

i found a guy who operates with the vcds system and hes going to verify the timing is correct in a little while, hes also going to do a tune from 90-110 hp and 130-170 ftlbs under stock components. these numbers are capable under full throttle only. i will maintain factory mileage once the vcds is fixed but these numbers and power will be achived when i giver the beans. This tune will unlock "potential when needed" lol. like a basic tune nothing special

Ok great have him check the timing and IQ , it sounds like he will know how to do both and also check those other mileage related things and you should see a noticeable increase in mpg’s and it sounds like power also. Good luck.

03tdiwagon said:

steve6 what do you mean the injection quality

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03tdiwagon said:

steve6 i now understand what you mean by timing injection with the vcds, but you said
" And yes, timing and Iq can definitely effect fuel mileage " what do you mean by Iq??

Click to expand...

IQ = injection quality...

I would first make sure the car runs good before putting any tune on it. Seems like yo are going it 10 different direction all at one. Drive the car for a while, fix things that are broken and THEN worry about extra horsepower.

I know theres a bunch going on. But there is a timeline in place dont worry imo000. Ill be going week by week. I dont mind spending some money on a low km alh to make it last. Im replacing all vital components because idk there history and what the car has been through from previous owners

I ordered a complete suspension. Koni Springs struts shocks. Audi tt lower control arms, swaybars front and rear, calipers pads and rotors, new single mass clucth the vr6 style, all 7 new glows,harness, MAF, 4 bosch oem injectors, new turbo, all new vacuum lines. At about 3100 so far. I always planned for a 6k budget car. So i got between 400-500 labour for the tricky stuff like turbo etc. But i can do the rest myself easy

Is this the first 155km you've put on the car? You may want to run a full tank through it and hand calculate your mileage if so. Without venting that first half of the gauge can drop pretty quick from what I recall. I've never owned a VW with a perfect fuel gauge, it has always been dropped faster on the first or second half of the gauge for me.

well when i got it i put in 45L the car had just above empty before the light comes on so i assume that's around 10L in the tank...... so my 45+10 puts me at the 55L fuel capacity before venting and adding more. I am now at just above half tank and only put on 245km this isnt a venting issue this is a fuel delivery issue.

whenever i turn it over to start, it smokes out the rear for a good 5-10 seconds, you can literally smell the diesel fuel in the exhaust fumes which makes sense its running very rich, and that attests to the assumption the injection pump is dumping far to much due to timing being off

Smoke on startup is usually worn valve guides, not fuel dumping.

Or a low compression cylinder (unburnt diesel). However, some smoke during start up is normal. I would drive the car for a month or so before tearing into anything.

Frig. All theae potentia issues got me all over the place. How does 1 check for worn valve guides.

You can check a cylinders compression though but idk how

03tdiwagon said:

Frig. All theae potentia issues got me all over the place. How does 1 check for worn valve guides.

You can check a cylinders compression though but idk how

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First you need to figure out if you actually have a problem or is it something that you only think is a problem. Drive the car for a bit, do lots of reading.

ill take a video tomorrow of the car turning over , shine the light over the exhaust so you guys can see the volume of "fumes/smoke" i am referring to. but yes i plan on driving it once this belt job is done... and locating and verifying any potential issues before i post a question... ill know for a fact if it is a fuel delivery issue once i get my car back with the timing adjusted properly. if it continues i know it wasnt the injection pump.

03tdiwagon said:

Frig. All theae potentia issues got me all over the place.

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I think that might just be a combination of severe ADD, lack of basic automotive knowledge, and a slight case of not knowing how to use the 'search' function. Also, google.[/QUOTE]

ss04vv said:

I think that might just be a combination of severe ADD, lack of basic automotive knowledge, and a slight case of not knowing how to use the 'search' function. Also, google.

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[/QUOTE]

ah lady, Im more than mechanically inclined, this weekend i changed out the entire front suspension, and completely changed all vacuum line system components and turbo actuator.
i've done over 300 searches last week alone on this forum but why search when i got people active in the thread who can reply.
dont be a tot and try and mock me lad, you can frig off rather than reply.