The NARFmobile, My 2001 Golf TDI

As always, looks great. I hope to make it to the Impex day so I can see your car!

NarfBLAST said:

A couple of glow plugs needed replacing. I have gotten really good at soldering, heat shrinking, and crimping these:

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Did you write up a how to on this? I ran new wires to mine, but I want to make them easier to change. They way I did mine are not ideal. I would like to replace my harness with a homemade one with 10 gauge wires.

79TA7.6 said:

Did you write up a how to on this? I ran new wires to mine, but I want to make them easier to change. They way I did mine are not ideal. I would like to replace my harness with a homemade one with 10 gauge wires.

Click to expand...

Its just solder, wire, heat shrink and crimp-on spade connectors. The only tricky part is soldering, so I took some photos of the soldering steps and made them into a poster a while back, here it is from post #227:

Thank. I thought I saw this but was not sure. My internet is to slow to try to run through the entire thread to have found it myself.

Have you ever checked the resistance before and after soldering to check that nothing is being damaged from heating the "other" end of the plug? I assume there is very little risk, just curious.

Today I had some time to do some really fun stuff, it all started with removing the front bumper:



And the damaged drivers-side front-fender. This made it super easy to install as set of AIR HORNS!



The other thing that made it super easy was this original VW bracket, which seemed to be pre-drilled for installation of the air compressor! The hex head mounting bolt that came with the air horn kit is already installed in the VW bracket in this picture:



Below is the compressor mounted to the above bracket, tucked safely behind the crash bar, connected directly to one of the two factory horn plugs:



Yes, that is a mud flap providing splash protection for the horns. It is tied into the engine splash cover on one side and the fender liner on the other and tucks up under the front bumper valance. There used to be a factory piece in there, I think?

Speaking of fun plastic cladding...

I had an opportunity to patch a hole in the fender liner using one of my old cheapo Rally Armour mudflaps (not the $100 ploy urethane ones, I never did buy a set of those, the $15 thin plastic ones on their website). I used 3/16ths rivets with aluminum washers on the both side of the plastic and I think it came it out really nice!





In the end I did install my new fender today, then I drove through a mud puddle to celebrate:



Yes, the front four inches of rocker panel are black, and the rest is mostly silver with some black showing thru where the ridges have worn. I have something special (and cheap!) planned for the rockers.

Finally, late tonight, I re-installed my freshly painted tow hook, which made for a higher contrast picture against the dried mud:



Good times.

79TA7.6 said:

Have you ever checked the resistance before and after soldering to check that nothing is being damaged from heating the "other" end of the plug? I assume there is very little risk, just curious.

Click to expand...

I've never thought about it. Besides, resistance is very hard to measure on glow plugs, they act like a short circuit. They are a really simple device that gets really hot so I wouldn't worry about it; as long as you don't melt the insulator ring between the prong and the body then I can't imagine hurting anything.

Paul, what are the steps for removing the front quarter panels / fenders? I can see the hardware, but is there anything else? Thx, -Steve

hskrdu said:

Paul, what are the steps for removing the front quarter panels / fenders? I can see the hardware, but is there anything else? Thx, -Steve

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This BMAC VAGS guy on youtube has some awesome videos:

VW Golf Front Bumper Removal 1998-2004 simple easy steps ...

VW Golf Jetta Mk4 Front Wing Fender Removal Simple ... - YouTube

Indeed he does! BMAC has helped me save thousands throughout the years with his diy projects. Keep up the good work bud


Plain and simple.

Thanks! (Her) Jetta will need a new driver's side- once I can find a platinum grey one in good shape from the pick-a-part.

Black Rockers on a Silver Golf, Oh My!

I can't find an example on the interwebs where this had been done before. I have been thinking about it for years. I was further inspired a while back by someone on here, I can't remember who now, I think they had a red Jetta with oversized tires and black rockers. I think they went up on to the doors with the rocker guard paint tho. Here is my version of blacked rocker panels:

The idea was that the front and rear valences are factory black plastic, and the rockers could match. In order to better match up with the higher rear valence I thought the rear should "kick up" following the stamped flat part of the panel behind the rear doors. It came out better than I imagined. Here is the story in pictures:

I masked off the doors and bagged the tires and broke out the "Dominion Sure Seal" (Made in Canada) Rubberized Rocker Guard.



It went on quick in one textured coat. Rocker guard is so much more fun than paint because you don't have to worry about drips and runs because it is pretty much all drippy and runny and chunky on purpose!



I had some tape inside the doors as well. Here is what it looks like inside the passenger door:



The drivers door hangs low so there was less of gap for the rocker guard to sneak in so after opening the door I sprayed a bit more on the tape line:



Which made for a sharper cut line:



After a few hours of dry time I took the car through the mud puddle.

I could not be happier with the results:





Yes, I removed that silly fuel cap cover thing:



Instead of replacing the bumper with the one from the junk yard, I got away with only replacing the rub strip. I was able to buff out and touch up the rest of my old bumper. I think it looks great with the new fender:



As the sun set, I drank a couple of beers while sitting in the shed and just looking at the car.

550,000 km and First Hammer Mod

This happened recently:



The car is running better than ever, other than the occasional shudder at idle and consistent haze at wide open throttle.

Ever since I replaced the injector nozzles the highest I could get my IQ number was 3.0 and only if the adaptation was set at its lowest possible adaptation number. If the adaptation was set at the default then the IQ would drop to 1.0. Obviously I would need to hammer.

This past weekend I drove to a GTG in Northern Michigan where I watch Frank06 hammer mod his injection pump. That finally gave me the confidence to try it, after I got home...

At first I was loosening the screws on the cap instead of the head and nothing was moving. Once I realized my mistake it was easy to get it moved just about about a millimeter towards the passenger side (the left in this picture) and make my scribe line almost completely disappear. You can just barely see a curved scribe mark disappearing below the security screw in this picture, if you know what you are looking for:



edit: the wetness on the pump is from cleaning with mineral oil.

With the adaptation number at default and the IQ number hammered up to 6.0 then back down to 4.8 I was happy and made sure all seven bolts were snugged back up (diagram in the background on the laptop screen):



The idle is much smoother and engaging first gear is smoother too. I took a very short test drive so I am not sure if the smoke is completely gone... will be easier to tell after dark with a good set of headlights behind me from a stop light.

Next is emissions testing!

Good job on the Hammer mod. It was a pleasure meeting you this weekend and I hope to see you again sometime soon!

I never did get that mufflerectomy, but I made up for it in having a stealth racepipe made up out of my existing one

Aaron

Nice to meet you too Aaron!

NarfBLAST said:

Heading to TDIFest in less than a month!

Added extra long steel antenna with Canadian flag:

Click to expand...

How did you make the extra log antenna ?

dubboy2707 said:

How did you make the extra log antenna ?

Click to expand...

They're available from auto parts stores with adapters for easy bolt on: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/e2-steel-replacement-mast-antenna-0350097p.html#srp

Ontario Drive Clean "Emmisions Test" Passed!

The short story:

It passed the e-test!



The long story:

It all started with handing the keys over to a shop service manager for the first time in over four years. Immediately after giving him the keys I started to explain that my car has a "special starting procedure due to a broken ignition". They said no problem maybe I should show the tech how to start it, and invited me to walk into the garage area to see if the tech was free. The tech looked at us funny and said, "why don't you go ahead and pull it into the service bay." I thought this was a great idea, and it only got better...

After pulling into the service bay I offered to help plug in the cable and they let me start the car for the test! I got to see every single step on the screen. I was impressed that a digital camera was part of the process and photos were taken of my VIN, license plate, and door jamb GWVR sticker, and uploaded to the ministry of transportation. They even take a photo of the "lamp test" when you first turn on the ignition I am guessing they need to confirm that your check engine light works! I thought it was pretty funny a minute later when the question popped up on the test terminal, "Is the MIL lamp still illuminated?" and without even looking in the car the tech clicked, "NO". I guess it is plausibly deniable that the light was off when they looked at it and totally irrelevant if the readiness bits have failed to set anyway.

At this point they said I could pull the car out of the bay and they would meet me at the service counter because it takes a minute to upload and print out the certificate. They could not tell me if it had passed until the certificate was printed. As I was pulling out of the bay the tech and the service manager both hollered and gave me the thumbs up. I put my fist in the air out the window and hollered back, "two more years!"

I paid for part of the test with "Canadian Tire Money" and put the rest on the card. The key chain was free. I left feeling great!

Later on that day I went online and renewed my license plate sticker for two more years instead of just one. Stickers will come in the mail.

On to the next thing...

Now I need to find the source of a slow coolant leak. I can't see anything from up top so I cleaned out "garage bay number two" and pulled the Volkswagen in there two days ago but haven't had time to jack it up and take the belly pan off yet. I've been driving our Honda Odyssey which lives in garage bay number one of our two car garage. The temperature has been in the 30's C (90's F) this week and between lack of air conditioning and chance of low coolant it has made more sense to drive the van. Also the Kid's Great Grandparents have been sick with pneumonia and not sure what else so best to drive them in the comfortable van although they totally get the economy and joy of driving the old Volkswagen.

This clean sheet of cardboard had so much potential.



After taking the bottom splash shield off and looking around I could smell coolant, but I could not find it. I am wondering if the big steel coolant line is leaking, but I could not find any pink or white crusty signs. I did find oil in a bunch of places. Some of the oil was gear oil that seems to seeping out of the fill hole. I checked the level with my pinky and it seemed to be near the hole even with the front of the car higher than the back.

I also discovered soot on my new flex pipe which made me sad. I curled up on the cardboard to think for a minute.



I decided to drive more and worry less.

There was nothing to do but put the bottom cover back on. The last couple of times I had a very hard time getting the screws to find their clips but thankfully the plastic side skirts had finally formed to the shape of the bottom cover and all the screws went back in without any wrestling.



After taking that picture I lowered the car down solemnly and attempted to pull the cardboard out, but it was stuck. I got on my hands and knees to discover I had left the impact driver under there and it was wedged between the aluminum and the cardboard. I reached it an pulled it out and the car dropped about six inches. There was a dent left in the thin aluminum pan and a battery shaped impression in the cardboard, but the drill worked fine.

Still on my knees I put my elbows and forearms down on the cardboard and had a really good laugh as I lowered my forehead down into my hands for a full fetal position face palm.

I took a shower and went for a test drive and it runs great, no worries.

I did not know dewalt made jack stands.

Fantastic tread thank you. Made a great read. Inspired me to keep up with my old girl and keep on improving
Keep up the good work

Update on coolant leak: what coolant leak?



I must have imagined it? I did have the small hose on the cylinder head under the vacuum pump blow out a month or two ago. Since then the coolant light had come on twice and I could have sworn I smelled coolant but I think the light only came on because I had not topped up enough after the repair. I think the smell was coming from coolant mixed with grime on the bottom cover that took a long time to dry off?

All I know for sure is that I have driven it hard putting on over 1000 km between two different summer day camps and three different soccer fields over the past week and the car has performed flawlessly with no warning lights on the dash, no drips on the driveway, and only faint smells of raw diesel, gear oil, and coolant from the engine compartment.

I am enjoying every minute in this car while it lasts.

Power FIST for the WIN

UPDATE Nov 8, 2016: Power fist struts quickly lost lifting power, I do not recommend! They will only hold the hatch up after they are fully extended at this point. I am a little dissappointed and embarrassed to report.

This spring I replaced the hatch, and this summer I finally re-installed the inside cover including a repair of the "access hole":



Soon after replacing the cover the hatch seemed to only stay up if it was pushed all the way up, and it was getting worse. I should have probably started shopping for new hatch gas spring strut shock things sooner. Instead I waited till the one on the left let go completely. That is when I really had to start looking:

I called my local NAPA and they quoted $38 which seemed reasonable for a quality part and I would have picked one up but they didn't have any in stock. The friendly parts person there went on to say they don't bother stocking them because "Canadian Tire has them way cheaper." Okie dokie, thanks for the tip.

I called my local Canadian Tire Auto Parts person and right away they were like "Volkswagen? We problem don't have em." And then, an awkward amount of time later, "Nope I don't even have a listing for your car." Well, that is typical for Canadian Tire.

Now I know I could ordered these online but I had one more local place I could check. Princess Auto:



Other hardware stores probably have these too but Princess Auto had a great selection: all you have to do is bring the old part, hold it up the ones on the shelf and find the ones you need, and they were only $11.99 each! I bought two and they literally installed in seconds.

My hatch looks like new, and now opens like new too! It will hold itself up anywhere from half way to fully open. It took a few cycles to "get used to" the new feel. Its delightful.

I've used Power Fist brand tools for years but this is the first actual Power Fist brand part installed on the car, other than windshield wipers, and maybe hitch balls, but those didn't have the name printed on them in this intriguing way:



If only every repair was this cheap, easy, and satisfying!

It sure is nice to have all the trim back in the hatch and have it feeling just like new. Just one more picture:

I just change mine too ah what a difference. It's actually a good thing they didn't have them at Canadian Tire since the ones they have listed for are model are not quite the right length. I bought some last year and brought them back they were about 1/4 inch too long and even tough I could install them they would slam the hatch open. I had the impression the hinges were about to fly off the car when I opened the hatch.

Ps. Cars looking really good It's making me want to start driving mine again, I've been rebuilding it since may.

Thanks Louis!

I found no real "spring" action with the The Princess Auto gas springs. They bring back memories of when the car was brand new. I remember how I used to open the hatch 3/4 then climb under and give it a little extra push from inside. The hatch moves silky smooth and never bounces just stops wherever you let go. Its a small thing but its a nice thing.

TDIFest 2016 Here We Come!

Just drove 700 km to stop over in Sault Ste Marie and the Volkswagen performed flawlessly.

Follow my trip on my facebook page: http://facebook.com/santosspeedshop

The car is sporting a very special modification: An Old Wood Roof Rack

I was really enjoying driving around with the pine roof rack this summer. I had it in storage over the winter and it was starting to age but it hasn't turned grey yet so it sort of just looked neglected. I decided to go for the full on "old" look and I just happened to have some hard wood board that had been aged for who knows how long. They were also the exact perfect length so no cutting into the weathered wood would be required!



I really enjoyed drilling and fitting the boards one at a time starting at the outside and working my way towards the center. Amazingly, six boards fit in the same place as nine previous boards using the same bolts and holes!



The best part is that they support my weight:



As you can see from the next photo the rot is only on the outside:



I love working with carriage bolts:



The finished product:



The special part is that I am turning 40 this Labour Day Weekend and my hair has turned grey and these really old boards on top of the car are my way of expressing the joy of aging and knowing myself and my inner strenth.

Looks good!

Hey! You took my idea I have been kicking around this idea for a while and even have the feet off an old roof rack. The plan is to build a small tube frame and attache planks like the old VW bus racks.

Jason

@hskrdu, Thanks!

@SilverGhost, Sounds neat, by tube frame do you mean a basket?

I would like to build some sort of basket but the planks were more simple for me to do. I figured I could use some more matching old wood to make some crates that I could strap down... but I will probably never get around to that. I kind of just like the wood up there as sort of a pergola. Also I'm not bothered by the wind noise, its only bad if you open the moon roof.

Back to School Tune-Up - Part 1 of 3

TDIFest was a blast. Check out the TDIFest 2016 picture thread

While there, Jeff from Rocketchip upgraded my ECU from RC2 to RC3.

After the ECU reflash, boost and timing seemed to not be hitting the requested levels. So I was assigned some homework:

- check fuel filter for possible clogging
- check injection pump case relief valve
- check for a small boost leak

I tackled these in reverse order and then I did a bunch of research I realize now why Jeff assigned these in the order above. Follow me on my journey of hope and discovery in this three-part series...

Part 1 of 3 - Check for Boost Leaks

I did not find any boost leaks, but I did find myself behind the passenger headlight:



...and decided that had to be cleaned up:



Two air conditioning lines hit the bin to drain the stinky green oil before being recycled:



I did manage to replace a couple of coolant hoses and pull the radiator back out into its proper mounting location, which was very satisfying:



At this point I started putting things back together and decided to fix the broken passenger fender liner with some mud flap and rivets:



After all that I put everything back together and made a couple of school runs. Everything was running pretty good, but some boost and timing were still missing and there was still this conspicuous haze at wide open throttle which I would like to clean up. Upping the injected quantity at idle would not get rid of the smoke. Jeff had mentioned after looking at the logs, "timing is struggling to meet requested, and duty cycle is saturated at 96%". So perhaps I had better check the timing graph?

<Continued in Part 2>

Part 2 of 3

Back to School Tune-Up Part 2 of 3 - Injection Pump Timing

I had not done this adjustment before, so I had to build up to it, reading as much as possible and finally gathering the courage to attempt it.

I had known my timing was in the lower part of the graph for a while now:



It turned out to be not that scary of a job at all! The only thing I had to remove was the timing belt cover. The bolts were easy to access:



On my first attempt I overshot the mark and was off the chart, but it started up and idled fine:



On my second attempt I tried to move the shaft half the distance back from whence I came, and with a bit of luck I nailed it:



I went for a test drive, but the smoke and lack of maximum boost were still there. What was my homework again?

<Continued in Part 3>