1Z replace main bearings with engine in situ

I have a 1z engine mounted longitudinally in a Suzuki Samurai. I need to replace the bearings. The conrod bearings are easy. The main bearings are trouble. I was wondering if anyone had a trick to getting a socket on the bolt heads for main bearing caps number 1 and 5. The front and rear main oil seal housings are too close to the bolt heads for a socket to fit. I thought about cutting away part of a socket but I don't think it would hold up to the amount of torque.

If end up removing the main seals then I might grind out space in the oil seal housing for a socket in case I have to change the bearings again. Normally, bearings should last long enough that you would want to install new main oil seals when the next bearing job is needed but, sometimes s**t happens.

Have done it this way a couple times... a socket ground only as thin as needs to be to just fit into place has held up for me so far.

The other jig that really helps is a plastic putty knife cut to the same width as the main bearings.. really helpful for rotating the upper bearing halves into place behind the crank journal.

Vince Waldon said:

Have done it this way a couple times... a socket ground only as thin as needs to be to just fit into place has held up for me so far.
The other jig that really helps is a plastic putty knife cut to the same width as the main bearings.. really helpful for rotating the upper bearing halves into place behind the crank journal.

Click to expand...

I'm going to see if it works for me. I will also invest in a torque multiplier to make torquing the extra 90 degrees a lot easier.

For the bearing I found using the old shell to push out the other half a bit then a heel bar worked really well for the conrod bearings.

So, just curious, why your replacing the bearings? Do you plan on specing out the crank and rods with plastiguage or a caliper and bore gauge?
did it run out on oil?

I never use plastigauge.

Here is a simple rule about the VW TDI crank. If it looks good, it IS good. The journals are as hard as any of the big truck engines and they are solid performers. If it is shiny and mirror smooth, don't sweat it. Keep things pristine clean and put it together. However, if you see lines or grooves in it or there is any discoloration or less than shine to it, don't kid yourself. Take it out and make sure it's right.

As for removing the bearings on the end caps, really it's only the front and rear seal that can be a problem. We use a small die grinder and relieve the aluminum housings until our 17mm socket fits. There is still plenty of area to apply the sealant so it will not leak. Do the work before you remove any caps and stuff rags into the block to keep debris out.

A small screwdriver inserted into the tang of the upper bearing will easily walk the bearing around where you can get to it.

Also, there are two different main bearing sets for the AHU and ALH engines. We often use the Glyco bearings, but do not use the HO/79 series, with 5 solid and 5 slotted bearings. We use the HO/27 series set with 4 solid and 6 slotted bearings. The 'extra' slotted bearing goes into the #4 main bearing cap. I've explained this often, but it is to provide additional oiling to the #3 connecting rod.

So you don't mix up the caps, be aware the tangs go to the same side. Use a good assembly grease, like our Joe Gibbs.