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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs

VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old July 10th, 2019, 16:04   #1
Gli_ryan
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Idaho
TDI(s): B4v
Fuel Economy: 50.2 average
Default AC not accepting freon

So the ac doesnít work for more than half a minute in my Ď96 b4v. The compressor kicks on and stays on. I can feel the air changing temps from the vents. Before the air really gets cold it warms back up. This happens when parked or at any vehicle speed. The high pressure line condensates in the engine bay and I can see the clutch still spinning on the compressor even though warm air may be coming from the vents. The parts store refill kit shows my refrigerant in the green ďfilledĒ area, however itís on the very bottom of the range. Iíve purchased another bottle and tried to fill the system up more but even after 10 minutes of messing with it I cannot get the system to fill up any more. I know Iím filling/trying to fill it correctly, the line only goes on one fitting.

My hunch is the compressor itself is too weak to work properly and needs replacing. All fans are working and I can feel the air temp change for a short period of time.

Any thoughts or similar problems?
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Old July 10th, 2019, 17:42   #2
Mongler98
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please do not and never do use that " cheater can" ever again. Dont trust it, dont even think for a second that the cinisium within is even good enough for a rice rocket!

There are a few things that this chould be and they are electrical.
90% of all HVAC issues are electrical, NOT charge related.
Ambient air temp switch, high pressure / low pressure switch to name a few can trigger a like symptom.

You need to check them all with a multimeter to see if they are functioning properly.

As for your charge, go get a proper set of high and low gauges from harbor freight. You need to tell us the charge at full rest when off and balanced on both sides, the High, the low, the outside air temp, the inside air temp and what pressures are like when it switches off on both high and low and how it equilizes.

only then we can give you some sort of clue as to whats the problem. Putting too much charge in WILL DESTROY your compressor AF. If liquid goes into the compressor it will destroy it very quickly so dont go adding more, and i would not even run it until you have a gauge set on it.
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Old July 10th, 2019, 18:04   #3
Gli_ryan
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If the switches are triggered will the clutch not disengage? The system continues to work and build condensation on the high pressure line.
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Old July 10th, 2019, 18:24   #4
ToddA1
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Limit switches will keep the clutch from engaging. Is your rad fan running?

Autozone rents the proper gauge set.

-Todd
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Old July 10th, 2019, 19:15   #5
Gli_ryan
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The clutch will engage and does stay engaged after the air temp warms back up. The high pressure line continues to condensate as well.

Both fans are running and stay running. At highway speeds the air temp does not stay cool either though.
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Old July 11th, 2019, 04:02   #6
oilhammer
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The only way to properly charge it, and KNOW it is a proper charge, is with a machine after the system has been evacuated and vacuumed.

However, it sounds like you have a restriction in the system if the high side line is cool. Condenser or drier, or both. But debris generally originates in the compressor, so... you probably need much of the system replaced and what is not replaced flushed out and blown clean.
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Old July 11th, 2019, 18:07   #7
ToddA1
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Out of curiosity, what happens if you turn on recirculate?

-Todd
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Old July 11th, 2019, 19:46   #8
ScottSwee
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Oilhammer is correct. You would need to recover pull a proper vacuum and weigh in a proper charge. If the high pressure line is condensating there is a restriction. The high pressure line should never condensate.

You should be able to feel around the lines and find where the refrigerant is changing states This would point to the area of restriction.
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Old Yesterday, 14:37   #9
jhax
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I tried the canned r134 on my b4 two or so years ago. I replaced the drier. Poured in some pag oil, bought a vacuum pump from harbor freight, evacuated and refilled. No issues to this day. Since I'm poor, I returned the pump and got money back.
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Old Yesterday, 21:41   #10
Steve Addy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhax View Post
I tried the canned r134 on my b4 two or so years ago. I replaced the drier. Poured in some pag oil, bought a vacuum pump from harbor freight, evacuated and refilled. No issues to this day. Since I'm poor, I returned the pump and got money back.
I've done similarly, pulled the system down and let it sit for an hour then fill. I think on this car since the system was empty I put in a can of pag oil too besides what was in the replacement compressor.

I also installed new o-rings on everything. It's been working great.

Steve
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Old Today, 04:26   #11
Mongler98
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why the extra oil?
if your system was low on charge or empty, simply pull the compressor up and drain the oil and add new, adding too much oil WILL cause a serious loos of efficiency, its is normal to have a little oil circulating around in the lines and bits but too much will coat and pool up in the coils making less heat transfer, too much oil WILL kill the compressor. you can NOT have a liquid enter into the compressor, only gasses with some oil mist. change that to a flow of oil and your compressor is FUBAR really fast. Granted you have to add a LOT of oil as most of it will end up trapped in the filter dryer. Ever wonder why the car dryers look the way they do vs residential or commercial filter dryers? to trap extra oil that was added. If you go over the ability to hold that oil, well good by AC Compressor RIP
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