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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old November 9th, 2019, 21:24   #1
Lex4TDI4Life
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Default Golf MKIV Smyth Ute Project

So I have finally found the time, space, and resources to truckify my beloved Reflex Silver 2001 Golf TDI. There are a number of resources out there to help the very amateur enthusiast undertake this project, but I have found all of them lacking, mostly because I need certain things spelled out in absurd detail. Another issue I have found is that most builds I have seen were done on Jettas, not Golfs. The differences should be few, but they are there. I will highlight the ones I find in the process.

I thought I would contribute to the community in some small way by explaining my build, the obstacles I encounter, and the solutions I discover. I am a big fan of knowing what tools I will need before diving into a project, so I will place in bold any tools I use along the way and update this list as I go along:


Hand tools:
  • 3/8" and 1/4" drive ratchets
  • 22mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 13mm sockets (regular and deep), 1/4 and 3/8 drive
  • 5mm allen socket and allen wrench
  • Ratcheting 13mm wrench
  • Phillips screwdrivers of varying sizes
  • Torx sockets, T20, T27
  • XZN (triple square) sockets, M8
  • 120-degree, 1/2" countersink
  • Metal snips
  • 2-pair needle-nose vise grips
  • large clamps
  • Swivel-head riveting tool
  • Small picks for trim, headliner, etc.
  • Plastic trim removal tools
  • Heavy rubber/composite mallet
  • 48" metal ruler
  • Large t-square
  • Wire stripper/crimper
  • 1/4" - 20 tap

Power/electrical tools and Accessories:
  • Cordless drill (mine was undersized, but YMMV)
    3/16" Cobalt bits (I probably went through about 5-7 of these)
    3/8" Cobalt bit
    1/2" Cobalt bit
  • Blind rivet drill adapter kit
  • Cordless reciprocating saw (sawzall)
    Heavy duty 18 tooth-per-inch cutting blades (I went through 2-3)
  • 4.5" angle grinder
    Diamond cutting/grinding disc
  • Dremel
    Lots of heavy duty cutting discs
    Various sanding barrels
    Various grinders/cutters
  • Soldering iron

Consumables:
  • Paint Over Rust (POR)15
  • Urethane spray foam
  • GE Silicone 2 (2-3 tubes)
  • 3M Windo-Weld
  • Solder
  • Dielectric grease

Safety gear
  • Heavy gloves
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Eye protection
  • Dust mask/respirator appropriate for fiberglass work
--------------------

I am in no way, shape or form even close to an expert. I am sure that whatever I document, others will have a better way and I will be thrilled to hear experienced advice during this process. Be warned, I take no responsibility for any actions anyone takes based on the content in this thread. If you follow any of the steps or advice I offer in this thread, you do so at your own risk.

The patient:




"Josie" is a 2001 Reflex Silver 4dr Manual Golf with 345k miles. I have owned her since 2005 when 88k miles were on the dial and she was my daily driver until 2016 when she started splitting duties with a 2016 Golf R. I have since moved onto a 2019 Audi TTRS and Josie is ready for a new life. After the conversion is over, I plan on putting in a new suspension and a brand new VNT15 that has been sitting in my closet for, literally, 7 years. Next post will cover the pick up process and the first steps in stripping the car.
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RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II

Last edited by Lex4TDI4Life; Yesterday at 09:30.
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Old November 9th, 2019, 23:15   #2
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Old November 10th, 2019, 19:09   #3
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Default Pick up and starting the strip...

Although Smyth Performance will ship Ute kits, I decided to pick my kit up in person. Mark Smith was gracious enough to let me come by on a Saturday to pick up the kit, so I rented a pickup and drove from Fairfield County, CT to Wareham, MA. I saw in Powder Hound's thread that he was able to get a whole kit in the back of a Golf. Feeling less inclined to risk getting pulled over on 95 with aluminum and fiberglass hanging from my hatch, I splurged on a U-Haul pickup with an 8' bed for the day. Fortunately, Mark had a spare tailgate on hand and I didn't have to have one drop shipped to me. Everything fit easily:

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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II

Last edited by Lex4TDI4Life; Yesterday at 09:26.
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Old November 10th, 2019, 19:22   #4
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Returning back to the workspace a friend has donated, I proceeded to unpack and get to work stripping the back. I misplaced my Bentley during my last move, so I had to resort to sorta-common sense and looking up DIYs. Sadly, most of the DIYs on vwvortex are so old that the images no longer load. Oh well, it wasn't too bad. Partial list of things that had to be removed and tools required:
  • Rear seats and seatbelts. 17mm socket.
  • Rear carpet.
  • Inner door seals.
  • Lower trim after B-pillar, carpeted panels. Plastic trim removal tools.
  • Inner door seals.
  • Monsoon/Phatbox bracket. Torx driver
  • OhSh!t handles. phillips head screwdriver

Post-strip interior:


No rust underneath, but there is some grime from a long-forgotten oil spill. Once all cuts are made and I start fitting the bed, it will get a nice clean.
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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II
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Old November 10th, 2019, 19:35   #5
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Next up was a little more stripping and removal of the rear doors and hatch. Most of the rear trim and carpeted panels were yanked out unceremoniously and destroyed. The C-pillar panel as particularly abused.

With the C-pillar out of the way, I was able to pull the headliner down and remove the antenna (22mm socket).

The rear doors were next. First thing is to pull the rubber accordion sleeve between the door frame and door and then disconnect the wiring for the speaker. I am not sure yet where/how I will relocate the rear speakers.

The doors are held on with two M8 triple square (XZN) head bolts at the top and bottom hinges. You have to pull the lower B-pillar trim to access the bolts that thread into the hinge from behind. Get some good XZN sockets and make sure they are seated properly. I rushed and stripped the two bolts holding on the passenger-side lower hinge and had to drill them out.



Remove the latch on the door frame and save the bolts, which you will have to use on the tailgate later.



The hatch was next and fairly easy. By the way, I made every effort to preserve all the wiring. This meant removing the lower plastic trim on the hatch (phillips screwdriver) and window trim and patiently disconnecting and fishing out the wiring. I am not sure yet what I will do with the trunk latch actuator, but it is nice to have it available.

The hatch itself is held on by 4 bolts (13mm socket) accessed under the headliner. Have a friend handy to hold the hatch up when you pop the hatch struts off and then you can lift the hatch down and set aside.

De-doored and hatched:



On that note, I now have for sale one reflex silver hatch and both reflex silver rear doors, rust free and with all wiring intact if anyone wants to pick them up.
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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II

Last edited by Lex4TDI4Life; December 10th, 2019 at 14:18.
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Old November 11th, 2019, 07:16   #6
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Nice work on detailing the tools you need. If you don't have one already, you'll want a 120* countersink for the flush rivets you'll need. The instructions don't say it is an aviation countersink since that is the industry that usually likes flush aluminum rivets; the usual ones have much more angle than that and the results will not be as optimal. Just looking for a 120 degree countersink ought to do the trick. And make sure you get one that is large enough. The actual outer diameter of the aluminum flush rivet outer flange is larger than 3/8" by a slight margin, so get a 1/2" countersink with a shaft small enough to fit your drill.

Oh, and the 3/16" drill bit they say to use is just smaller than the rivet shaft. The nearest metric size is just a little larger than the rivet shaft, so it is hard to say if it would be better. I haven't tried it myself. Just know that you'll need to exercise that 3/16" bit after you drill the initial hole to enlarge it a few thousandths so the rivet will actually go in.

I'm also interested in how you cut the Golf because I have one, and see them on occasion for sale, but don't see any Golf being cut. Like you, I figure the differences might be limited to the length of the tail end, but I'd still like to see the details of the cutting.

I think you see more Jettas being done because there were about 10 times more Jettas sold than Golfs in the USofA. And so few 2-doors that it is not likely we'll see a kit for a 2-dr Golf anytime soon.

Good luck! Cheers,

PH
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Last edited by Powder Hound; November 11th, 2019 at 07:19.
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Old November 18th, 2019, 20:12   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Marko Aleksandrovich Ramius
When he reached the New World, Cortez burned his ships. As a result, his men were well motivated.
I have been busy, but have made my (almost final) cuts. Once I started slicing, I knew there was no turning back and, as a result, I am well motivated to finish. There is definitely some Golf-specific material here, so Golf nerds beware. My cutting tool of choice was a cordless reciprocating saw fitted with heavy duty, 18-tooth per inch metal cutting blades. In hindsight, and as explained below, I wish I had chosen an angle grinder with diamond tooth cutting wheel. The sawzall was fine, but there is a bumper issue...

After pulling down the headliner, I started assessing the situation and figuring out where my initial cuts would need to be. Immediately, the roof cut gave me pause. I am not sure if this is a Golf-specific issue or a non-sunroof issue, but after marking 3.25" behind the upper rear corner of the front door, my friend noticed that there was something that looks like a thin brace cast into the underside of the roof that might interfere with the final cut.



While I waited to talk to Mark Smith about this (who, by the way, has been extremely helpful and responsive in answering my very novice questions), I decided to make an initial cut a few inches further back just to give myself room to screw up.



Remember to wear eye protection and gloves! Once I made it past the double-layered metal at the edges, the sawzall cut through the roof like butter.

Mark got back to me and let me know that yes, cutting through that "brace" is fine. So I went back and made my final roof cut at the 3.25" mark. It turns out that the line is almost directly along the back edge of the brace. Only the ends interfere slightly because it flares out a bit. You can see here where I shaved off some of the surface, exposing the bare metal underneath for about 4 inches.



And here is the last sawzall cut in the roof:



I cleaned up the edges with some metal snips and deburred with a dremel fitted with a grinding wheel. All bare metal will eventually get a coat of POR 15. I also cut the headliner approximately 2.75" further out per the manual. I purchased some replacement headliner material and will be re-covering it before installing the rear window surround.

Next, it was onto the rear quarter panels. This is where the Golf varies dramatically from the Jetta and where I was really nervous as I did not have an example to work from. Nevertheless, I followed the instructions from the online manual and marked my initial cut 14" above the top of the wheel well on both sides.



The passenger side has two Golf-specific quirks, aside from the general shape of the rear quarter panel. First, the fuel door is round and not rectangular. The fiberglass side panel in the kit is molded for the rectangular Jetta fuel door. So I am tossing my Golf door aside and will pick up a Jetta one later. Second, the fuel door actuator mechanism on the Jetta sits below that 11" final cut. The Golf actuator, however, sits above that final cut and thus has to be removed. It pushes up and out of three slots in the body panel, so I pulled it and set it aside. If there are any fun uses for it, I am all ears.



And here is the 14" above wheel well cut:



On the passenger side, there are three layers of metal at issue: (1) the outer quarter panel; (2) the framing around the fuel filler; and (3) the inner flange that runs along the wheel well.



I cut through layers 1 and 2 with the sawzall. Most of layer 1 will be cut out with snips once I get closer to installation. Layer 2 will be trimmed down more as well when the sides are test fitted - it is used for riveting . Layer 3 is uncut and remains intact for the aluminum bedside to rivet into.

I forgot to take pics of the driver side, but will try to snap a few and update.

A friend helped me lift the now completely cut roof off and voila!



The bumper cut is next, which I will post about later.
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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II

Last edited by Lex4TDI4Life; November 18th, 2019 at 21:31.
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Old November 18th, 2019, 20:43   #8
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Watching!
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Now: 03 Golf GLS TDI 5SPD & (hers) 03 Jetta GLS TDI 5SPD & 2015 GSW TDI 6M
Then: 99 Jetta GLS TDI, 94 Golf GL, 85 Golf GL, 85 Golf, 79 Rabbit C, 68 Beetle, 65 Beetle
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Old November 18th, 2019, 21:27   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Hound View Post
Nice work on detailing the tools you need. If you don't have one already, you'll want a 120* countersink for the flush rivets you'll need. The instructions don't say it is an aviation countersink since that is the industry that usually likes flush aluminum rivets; the usual ones have much more angle than that and the results will not be as optimal. Just looking for a 120 degree countersink ought to do the trick. And make sure you get one that is large enough. The actual outer diameter of the aluminum flush rivet outer flange is larger than 3/8" by a slight margin, so get a 1/2" countersink with a shaft small enough to fit your drill.

Oh, and the 3/16" drill bit they say to use is just smaller than the rivet shaft. The nearest metric size is just a little larger than the rivet shaft, so it is hard to say if it would be better. I haven't tried it myself. Just know that you'll need to exercise that 3/16" bit after you drill the initial hole to enlarge it a few thousandths so the rivet will actually go in.

I'm also interested in how you cut the Golf because I have one, and see them on occasion for sale, but don't see any Golf being cut. Like you, I figure the differences might be limited to the length of the tail end, but I'd still like to see the details of the cutting.

I think you see more Jettas being done because there were about 10 times more Jettas sold than Golfs in the USofA. And so few 2-doors that it is not likely we'll see a kit for a 2-dr Golf anytime soon.

Good luck! Cheers,

PH
Many thanks, PH! I have been following your helpful thread as well. I will add the countersink to my tool list for sure!

And it really is too bad that there is no kit for the 2-dr. An R32 Ute would be killer.
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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II
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Old November 19th, 2019, 06:40   #10
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Although it pains me a bit to see a nice Golf cut up, I'm going to follow this. I have a "spare" '02 Jetta sedan with some rust that I've considered converting. I just struggle to justify the cost.
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Old November 19th, 2019, 08:43   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndigoBlueWagon View Post
Although it pains me a bit to see a nice Golf cut up, I'm going to follow this. I have a "spare" '02 Jetta sedan with some rust that I've considered converting. I just struggle to justify the cost.
I definitely cannot justify the cost except to write it off as a fun learning project and an excuse to accumulate more tools and experience.
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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II
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Old November 19th, 2019, 09:08   #12
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I can't justify the cost either, unless there is someone out there that wants to buy a small incredibly fuel efficient pick-em-up truck from me when I'm done. I figure it will same me lots of time in those jobs where a pickup just does where no jetta or golf will. But you never know. Prices for old gen 1 and 2 rabbit diesel pickups are just plain silly compared to the utility of a gen 4 ALH.

Yeah, an R32 trucklet would be killer. But if you really want that, there is always the Audi quattro (A4, S4) conversion you could do. I wanted to get my wife to think about that as we just got her a used 2007 A4 to assuage her winter paranoia, but she looked at me like I had lost my mind. She LOVES that car.

Cheers,

PH
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Old November 22nd, 2019, 06:18   #13
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You would think that a 2 door conversion would be the same, but with a shorter bed.you might have to customize a few of the pieces in the UTE kit, but I bet it is doable for someone with the motivation.
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Old November 22nd, 2019, 09:35   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Growler View Post
You would think that a 2 door conversion would be the same, but with a shorter bed.you might have to customize a few of the pieces in the UTE kit, but I bet it is doable for someone with the motivation.
The problem, I think, is the brace in the kit that rivets to the b-pillar. That is the structural lynchpin of the whole thing. Without a b-pillar to speak of, the bed has nothing structural to attach to.

But yes, brilliant minds should come forth and solve this!
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2001 Golf TDI 5 spd
RC2, Bosch T4-764 injectors, OMI, SBC Stg 2 Clutch, Koni FSDs, TT LCA Bushings, The Mystery Bar, Dieselgeek Panzer Plate, Elephant Hose, DG Race Pipe, Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge, Boostvalve,Fumoto Valve, Mufflerectomy, Scangauge II
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Old November 22nd, 2019, 13:16   #15
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I have to wonder how close a NB kit would be to a 2-dr Golf kit. Lots of similarities there in terms of length of bed. Differences in other directions, but I think a NB kit would already be most of the way there.

Cheers,

PH
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