Zip tie mod how to?

I've been trying to find a how-to on the zip tie mod, I guess there used to be one on myturbodiesel, but it appears to be gone. I've used the search function both here and with regular old Google and I find a lot of people talking about it, but no how-to. My main question is how much vacuum to use. I kinda get the jist of the rest of how it works and all.

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https://web.archive.org/web/20170715112939/https://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/a5/ziptie-turbo.jpg


https://web.archive.org/web/2018060...ustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/

I've been using this mod for 4-5 years now. Every once in a while the zip tie breaks and I need to redo it.

Good luck, it's really not too tough once you do it.

dae06 said:

I've been using this mod for 4-5 years now. Every once in a while the zip tie breaks and I need to redo it.

Good luck, it's really not too tough once you do it.

Click to expand...

How much vacuum did you apply before installing the zip tie?

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It was a trial and error process. When I finally got it tuned in, I ended up using 11" (I believe) zip ties and used 3 clicks on the zip tie.

For some reason I don't recall needing the vacuum pump (its been a while since I did this), I think the actuator is up until vacuum is applied and then lowers and this is when the zip tie limits the actuator from going too far.

After knowing the correct length of zip tie needed, I sized my zip tie, squeezed the zip tie to make it long and flat and pointed to push down and lassoed the actuator on the turbo from the engine compartment and hooked the other part of the zip tie over the vacuum port as shown in TDI73's first picture. (his zip tie mod was done with the turbo off, so he didn't need to form (squeeze) the zip tie to lasso the actuator)

I hope this makes sense. It still takes a little patience to get it hooked, but really isn't too tough.

I can definitely tell when the zip tie breaks, I lose power at take off and produce black smoke.

I hope this helps

FWIW - because I had read of people's zip-ties breaking and it was easier for me to get around the actuator I ended up using fairly heavy stiff wire. Got it the shape needed to loop around and back up.

I didn't have a vacuum pump available so just forced the actuator fully extended and then sized the wire to shorten its extension by ~ 3/8 inch. If that amount didn't do the trick I would have adjusted more.

Apparently I hit close enough. It ran great that way for the 2 years I owned it.

Is there any way to do this mod if you do not own a VCDS? It looks like theres some testing involved that requires it... sounds like I've answered my own question but wondering if anything has changed/ evolved over the last 5 years

Trial and error without VCDS.

Yup like Rx says.

Put a zip tie, too short, the car will be a dog. Too long, it will overboost and fault out with probably limp as a result

Now this is the first time I am hearing about this but what would be the purpose for this.

MrCypherr said:

Now this is the first time I am hearing about this but what would be the purpose for this.

Click to expand...

Read the links in post #2.

Funny thing, ai remember making this post to fix my car, but I never updated with the results.
It worked for me, I used wire instead of a zip tie and it was like driving a whole new car. I had gotten used to the delay in acceleration and didn't think much of it.
Sadly a few weeks after doing this fix, I hit a deer with that car, then found the 30k mile cam was worn out and ended up trading it for a 2005 f150 heritage.
That was when I learned how important 505.01 spec oil was, and a lot of things like that.

I think as the weather gets warmer I will finally get around to this, I have a feeling my car will benefit from this. Since mine will be trial and error I think I will use the plastic zip ties until I find the right length, then I will replace it with a metal one.

Wire might work better because you can untwist it to fine tune adjust it.