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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old February 26th, 2011, 11:46   #1
smokingbud1977
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Default M4 Golf GT TDI 110 Not Boosting Properly

Hi guys im new to this forum so i would like to say hello, im not very good with cars but i do no sum stuff. Ive had quite a few subaru turbos and fixed a few problems will help off people off forums like this 1 and hope people can help me on here. Right i bought a m4 golf gt tdi 110 the other day and a problem as occured today, when i was driving i got to aroung 2500 rpm on boost then the car stopped boosting and really struggled to get above 3000 rpm as i changed gear from 2nd to 3rd the car really struggled to get above 3000rpm again then all of a sudden it would be fine and then do it again. I then went to a friends round corner from me who has a laptop with is it VAG COM or something he said fuel solenoid short to ground, he then started the car and did the check again all clear, so he told me to take it for a run, it was ok for 5 minutes then started not boosting again (holding back). My friend then said it could be the actuator getting stuck so im going to spray it 2morro with WD40 if i can locate it. Does anyone no what the fuel solenoid short to ground fault means and what i need to do if that code comes up again 2morro when my friend puts it back on computer. thanks lads it will be much appreciated
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Old February 26th, 2011, 11:54   #2
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Get the code number, and do not spray any WD-40 on anything.

You should check the turbo actuator with a hand operated vacuum pump. Watch for leakage and binding while pulling a vacuum as well as releasing it. Note the suction required to start motion, and to hit the stop.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 12:11   #3
smokingbud1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrews View Post
Get the code number, and do not spray any WD-40 on anything.

You should check the turbo actuator with a hand operated vacuum pump. Watch for leakage and binding while pulling a vacuum as well as releasing it. Note the suction required to start motion, and to hit the stop.
What ive read about this problem already is wd40 does work or a silicone spray, my friend nose a lot about them and said i can open and close it with pliers and spray it, is this not true.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 12:23   #4
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The actuator must be clean and dry. The only lubricant I would ever consider is one that has a volatile carrier that will leave only a dry dust, but it is not necessary.

Testing the actuator with a vacuum pump will help you diagnose the cause of your problem. If the actuator works poorly, remove it, and check the vane mechanism.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 13:39   #5
smokingbud1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrews View Post
The actuator must be clean and dry. The only lubricant I would ever consider is one that has a volatile carrier that will leave only a dry dust, but it is not necessary.

Testing the actuator with a vacuum pump will help you diagnose the cause of your problem. If the actuator works poorly, remove it, and check the vane mechanism.
I will get fault code 2morro and let u no mate.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 15:07   #6
85_305
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I've used PB blaster and it works fine to free stuck vnt rods.... for a few weeks. The problem is, unless you apply a lubricant that disappears, the lube will collect dust/dirt/soot, and make the vnt rod stop operating again. But it is a good, quick way to see if the rod sticking is the issue.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 19:42   #7
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Certainly check out the actuator with a hand operated pump. If it does not hit the stop by 18 in hg then its probably time to replace it. If it does function properly and does not leak the I would check out the N75 valve. (Follow the vacuum hose back to a white thing mounted on the firewall.) It is common for them to get plugged and will cause them to fail.

Cheers.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 23:20   #8
smokingbud1977
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I do no that i have a leek in my manifold gasket or a crack in downpipe flexi ive been told, not sure if this would cause my problem but im having it repaired after weekend. How i no is because when i pop the bonnet with engine running and i give it sum throttle there is smoke comeing from the back of engine bay and it constantly makes a whisteling noise so my mate says its leeking. i had a vagcom check earlier today and it said fuel solenoid short to ground something like that. I will see if it throws the same code out 2morro and let You no. thanks lads
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Old February 27th, 2011, 01:50   #9
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I would get that leek out of your manifold it can't be helping your airflow.
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