Boring Plate AHU/1Z Does Anybody Rent or Sell Them?

The gas engines use 10mm head bolts so I can't use the one pictured below. Does anybody know of anyone who ideally rents or sells one for the AHU/1Z tdi?

Techtonics Tuning

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...ct_info&cPath=2_11_5_223_920&products_id=2767

I'd also do the transmission simulator plate.

? thanks

could you make one from an old block ?...and possibly fill the voids with epoxy, iron or brass ?

I had K&B Feb water jet one for me but gave him a 1.8 gas gasket . I think if you mill a few holes it will still work for a ALH?

Always want to use aluminum as close to the dimensions and material as the Cylinderhead. I suppose you could use a junk head and bore holes in it.

I didn't on mine.

It isn't like a 400CI SBC where the bores are siamesed to the head bolt bosses, the head bolt bosses are cast into the water jacket rather than the cylinder wall. Thus, the only place it'd make a difference is at the deck, and the rings don't even go high enough for that to make a difference.

You make a good point 486.
The simple way to check is take a empty block and install a head torqued down and use a dial bore gauge from the crank side and check with on and off.

If you really want to be race car anal, heat the block up to 190f for machining...... :O

Headbolt threads are roughly 35mm deep into the deck so cylinders distort right in the ringland area
It does make a difference with the torque plate in many ways

Soooo..... has anyone measured the actual changes with or without the torque plate?

mk3pd said:

Headbolt threads are roughly 35mm deep into the deck so cylinders distort right in the ringland area
It does make a difference with the torque plate in many ways

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They are 35mm past the deck, but you look into the block deck water jacket ports, the cast in bosses that the threads are in are cast onto the outside wall of the water jacket, not the outer wall of the cylinders.

The block deck is about 10mm thick or so, which is the only iron between the cylinders and the water jacket where the head bolts hold down to, and that isn't going to deform much bolting a head down on it.

[486] said:

They are 35mm past the deck, but you look into the block deck water jacket ports, the cast in bosses that the threads are in are cast onto the outside wall of the water jacket, not the outer wall of the cylinders.

The block deck is about 10mm thick or so, which is the only iron between the cylinders and the water jacket where the head bolts hold down to, and that isn't going to deform much bolting a head down on it.

Click to expand...

I suggest you should measure what actually happens,i think you will be surprised

[486] said:

They are 35mm past the deck, but you look into the block deck water jacket ports, the cast in bosses that the threads are in are cast onto the outside wall of the water jacket, not the outer wall of the cylinders.

The block deck is about 10mm thick or so, which is the only iron between the cylinders and the water jacket where the head bolts hold down to, and that isn't going to deform much bolting a head down on it.

Click to expand...

I suggest viewing the video demonstrating distortion of cylinder walls.

Use of a torque plate for boring and honing improves overhaul results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cLjdr2GSwU&index=41&list=PLeJyCumuCqBCB-JUzD_h1VAXua8a72K0x

Awesome video!

Riflesmith said:

I suggest viewing the video demonstrating distortion of cylinder walls.
Use of a torque plate for boring and honing improves overhaul results.

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I haven't had a B series apart, only an A (really just a rebadged onan l423) and a couple C series which have wet sleeves.

I'd be interested to see if the bolt bosses are cast onto the cylinder walls on the B, really looks like it with how the walls are pulled out in that demonstration.

[486] said:

I haven't had a B series apart, only an A (really just a rebadged onan l423) and a couple C series which have wet sleeves.
I'd be interested to see if the bolt bosses are cast onto the cylinder walls on the B, really looks like it with how the walls are pulled out in that demonstration.

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I overhauled my B-series Cummins in 2012. The head bolt threads into a cylindrical projection into the water jacket area. The projection is part of the block deck casting, but not part of the cylinder wall. B-series cylinders are surrounded by six head-bolts each, 27 total on a B-series head.

That video has been around a while... its how it really works. I have seen the distortion in person on a Big Block Chevy.

I was curious as to the vw block specifically seeing as mine was just bored at a place I had gone to because he had the plate and was highly recommended. He said he used it after I walked in as he was finishing the last two cylinders final hone...without the plate! It was on the ground 10ft away completely dry and dusty!

Some have read about that in my other thread... but I am curious to find how far out am I really going to be... this was being put together for a compound setup in a conversion. Now I am not sure if this block is a paperweight for what was intended.

The plan now is to meet with my uncle (40 yrs machinist experience) who does military spec crazy stuff and measures much smaller than we are concerned about. I'll torque on a spare head.. the blocks original head... I know I am its original owner.. and measure it from the lower side. In my other thread it was posted the change by removing the plate after a hone, now I hope to post how much the change is from adding the head to a fresh honed block.

I'll post when I have some info.

A couple other things...

That is a B series cumins in that video. 24V and likely a CR. You can tell by the bubbles on the block. On the 12v they are notches.

Also for the original post.. The picture of that torque plate was made at home by a guy using a whole saw from home depot and a drill press on a piece of aluminum he got from online metals. I ran into it on another search because If I have to do this again I will certainly be using a different shop.
It will actually do the job perfectly if you get the mating side decked perfect.
I think he had about 150.00 into it.

All Stock said:

A couple other things...

I think he had about 150.00 into it.

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That may be materials, but not TIME.

I've talked to shops that have a torque plate for everything they bore and hone. In spite of the assumed difference aluminum makes, the consensus for this particular company is a steel torque plate is used on all blocks. We use a steel plate, ground flat

Would an aluminum plate make a real difference? Maybe. I really don't think it would be much, but one thing you can't argue. Where that video showing a Cummins block out of shape by squeezing with your hands is rather impressive. If only your hands will distort that much, what will all those bolts tightened to 150 ft lbs do?

The other thing I have been convinced is that you have to tighten up the block with the bolt type you intend to use. If you are using ARP's, install and tighten them up. If you are using stock head bolts, bolt the torque plate on with those. For those that say, "Yeah, but those TTY head bolts are 'use once only'. Well, my answer to that is, when a used bolt will no longer hold the torque plate correctly, replace them. They will work many times before they entirely stretch beyond use.