2002 golf, changed fuel filter, now won't start

Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Location
slc
TDI
2002 vw golf
been running b20 regularly; the fuel filter was getting gross after two tanks. i changed the fuel filter as i've done before. filled the filter with b20 about half full.... cranked it, started and died within 30 seconds. cranked again, started and died within 20 seconds. now it won't start. checked glow plugs, one is dead. tried starting it again yesterday, on an off chance. nope.

pretty sure that the problem is air in the lines, how do i fix this?
 

cbass94

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2006
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, 2011 JSW
Go buy a mity vac (or other brand) vacuum pump for about $20-30 at yoru local hardware store. Hook it up to the line coming from the tank to the filter and pump until a steady stream of fuel comes out. Then clamp off the line tight so that no air gets back in. After it's clamped, then take off the vacuum pump and hook it onto the proper fuel filter tube. Once it's connected to the fuel filter, then you can release the clamp on it. Hook up the other lines, pre-fill the filter (in the T-fitting hole) with clean diesel and it should start up for you with a little bit of cranking. You also may need to jump it because cranking like that will weaken the charge on the battery, and you want as much power as possible when you crank.
 

cbass94

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Jun 14, 2006
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Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, 2011 JSW
One more thing, did you replace BOTH o-rings on the t-fitting? If you didn't you'll definitely want to do that. MAKE SURE the larger diameter o-ring is on the top and the smaller is on the bottom. Some o-rings are different colors, if they are then the blue is on top and the black is on bottom.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Location
slc
TDI
2002 vw golf
great, thanks. i did replace both orings, the ones that came with this filter (purolator) were the same size and both black.

regarding the pump, which one is the line to the tank, (the ones one the t, or one of the other two?) and only have to pump the one line?

re: the glow plugs, how do i change those, do i have to change all of them or just the one that's dead, and where on earth do i get a socket deep enough to do so (and what size is it? i couldnt even squeeze a wrench down around to gauge them).
 

cbass94

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2006
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
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2003 Jetta GLS, 2011 JSW
If both o-rings were the same size, I would be worried. They NEED to be different to seal correctly.

The line coming from the tank is the one going to the left from the filter if you're looking at the car from the front. You can clearly follow the other line (not on the T) to the engine, so you know it's not that one. You should not need to unhook the lines going to the T or need to pump them. Yes, you only have to pump the one line, if you pump the other line going from the filter to the engine (not on the T) then you will be pumping fuel AWAY from the engine which is not what you want to do.

*EDIT* I just noticed you're in SLC, where are you at anyway? I don't have time to come by and help today, but I might be able to swing by tomorrow if you're still at it and you're close.

About the glow plugs, I'm not sure what size they are, but I'm sure someone does.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Location
slc
TDI
2002 vw golf
car's sitting still near the university. i'll give the mity vac a shot this evening, check the o-rings and keep posted on the events. if that doesn't work or if i haven't made it that far by tomorrow, the help would be appreciated.
 

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
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Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
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2015 Audi Q5 TDI
cbass94 said:
If both o-rings were the same size, I would be worried. They NEED to be different to seal correctly. .

Oh, bull. The factory replacement O rings are the same size. The seal is by friction fit, not taper fit.
 

cbass94

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2006
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, 2011 JSW
Oh, bull. The factory replacement O rings are the same size. The seal is by friction fit, not taper fit.
I've put calipers on three different sets of o-rings and they are definitely different. You can even feel the difference just by feeling them between your fingers.

So they're either made to a different size, or the production tolerances are way off consistently.
 

Fortuna Wolf

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Joined
Apr 28, 2006
Location
Wilmington, NC
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Auto Sedan
cbass, were the rings new or used? The fitting itself is a different size I think, and that will stretch the O-rings out.
The O-rings I've seen are the same size and when I change my cat filter I have a bag of single size O-rings that I bought from McMaster-Carr. They fit just fine and don't leak.
 

cbass94

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2006
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, 2011 JSW
I measured one set of new ones and two sets of used ones on Saturday. The diameter of the o-ring itself was the same on both, but the thickness of the ring was different. The used ones could be explained in that way then I guess, but that still doesn't account for the new ones.

Also, why are they different colored?
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Location
slc
TDI
2002 vw golf
i got the mityvac, filled the fuel filter, clamped the lines to keep air from reentering, then reattached all lines to the filter. try to start, and it doesnt. leaving the key turned (without trying to start) results in a bunch of indicator lights lighting and then going out, leaving on the MIL, the battery light, and the brake indicator. i'm assuming the MIL is for the #3 glow plug, which i will be replacing when it comes in tomorrow. should the battery light be on?

also, after a couple attempts to crank, the engine oil pressure warning light came on and beeped. got an oil change a few days before the whole mess started, the dipstick reading is accurate. when you look in the crankcase, should you see oil? because i don't. anyone?
 

chromeBuddha

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Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Location
Arlington, TX - DFW metroplex
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2002 Golf TDI manual
The battery light will be on as long as your alternator isn't producing charging voltage.

If you are talking about opening the oil filler cap, I think there is a baffle built onto the valve cover that would prevent you from seeing much.
 

weedeater

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 17, 2001
Location
Reston, VA
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Jetta, 2001, Baltic Green
Look in the crankcase how? Through the oil fill? You won't see anything. Through the dipstick tube? You've got better eyes than mine.

The oil pressure light will blink if the pressure is low while the motor is turning. Which is what happens during startup.

I assume you don't have a clear fuel line from the filter to the pump.

What most likely has happened is that you have a slug of air in the pump. It takes a while to get rid of this. One technique is to loosen the fuel line bolt at the #3 injector and crank until fuel squirts out (use a towel), then retighten. Or use the MityVac on the output side of the pump and suck until you get as much air out as you can. It's a good idea to turn the key on so the fuel shutoff solenoid is open.

The other possibility is that the pickup in the tank is gunked up. But try the other approach first.

good luck.
 

rdkern

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May 21, 2004
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Humboldt Co CA
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Passat 1997 silver (sold after 11 years), Jetta 2000 atlantic blue
IF you got air into the lines, you may still have it in the injector lines themselves. If so, this will be a difficult situation to clear without "cracking" the line at the injectors.

Concerning the oil - did you check the dipsitck? I'm not sure where you would be looking to see the oil in the crankcase.
 

greengeeker

Vendor
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Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
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2002 Jetta GLS
First off, is there fuel in the clear fuel line going to the injection pump? If yes, does the fuel move when you crank?

My first time I forgot to clamp the line from the filter to the IP and the fuel drained out. I attached said line to the filter and removed the other end (at the IP). I then drew fuel into the line - (in your case can be done with the vacuum pump) and slipped the line back on. Since I didn't try to start the engine without fuel in the line I believe I lucked out and didn't have to purge the air after the IP. I believe this is covered in the bentley if you need to do this (if not the site has to have something on it).

I'm sure a guru will be along shortly to tear me a new one....but in any case good luck.:)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Location
slc
TDI
2002 vw golf
rdkern said:
Concerning the oil - did you check the dipsitck? I'm not sure where you would be looking to see the oil in the crankcase.
sorry, not thinking clearly. i meant i checked the dipstick and the oil filler cap, i'm trying to figure out what on earth i've done wrong and looking at all possible sources.
 

cbass94

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2006
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, 2011 JSW
Bump

Any headway on this? Wish I could have helped more the other night.

Anybody else got any ideas? Does anybody know if there is some connection on the engine side of the injection pump that she could use to pull fuel through the pump? That way she could be sure fuel is going to the engine.
 

alphaseinor

TDI Innovator, Gone but Not Forgotten
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Jul 30, 2006
Location
Denton, TX
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'03 Jetta TDI 780,000 miles (totaled out), 01 Audi TT 225 Quattro 230,000 Miles (runs great!), 00 Cabreetle Beetle dash, ALH & MK4 harness Swap
You can use the return line that goes from the injector back to the IP, then hook a mity-vac up to that... if not there may be a problem with air getting into the system (the T is usually the cause of it.)
 
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