Clutch questions for the 1.9 TDI

I have a 2001 Jetta 1.9 TDI (ALH I believe) and I'm due for a clutch. I'm looking for recommendations for the best clutch for the money. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

G60 flywheel with VR6 Sachs clutch kit.

Luk 17-050.

This really depends on whether you are intending to stay at stock engine power levels, have mild aspirations for increase, or are intending to go wild with it.

The Luk 17-050 is a good cheap option for a stock level car.
The G60 flywheel and VR6 clutch disk and pressure plate are good for a relatively cheap upgrade to handle a modest increase in power.
The Southbend offerings are all across the spectrum, from mild to crazy power level, but their prices reflect it.

Yes, it really just depends on what you are needing/wanting.

Your car most likely has a Sachs DMF style clutch. They rarely "wear out", though, so you may want to qualify your statement as to the nature of the need for a clutch. Usually, the DMF starts to vibrate and comes apart long before the actual friction material wears out. At least, that is what I have seen over the years. Now, modded cars can and often do make enough power (especially in cooler weather) to slip an otherwise good clutch. This is not the same as worn out, just overwhelmed. Continuing to drive like that, and not taking care as to take it easy, will of course quickly wear the friction lining out.

So, you can do a replacement Sachs DMF/clutch kit. You can also do a Luk brand DMF/clutch kit. Early ALHs used these from the factory, although the current ones are improved. They are said to better handle more power than the Sachs does.

If you want to do away with the trouble prone DMF altogether, you can use a one piece flywheel/clutch conversion kit. This is essentially the same thing the early (pre-ALH) TDIs used, as well as some of the supercharged gas engines and some 6 cyl engines. Sachs also makes a kit for that, as does Valeo and others. The downside to losing the DMF is that they are not quite as smooth, and some have a small noise at idle in neutral. There is still a torque application dampening, though, it is just in the clutch disc itself, like a "traditional" clutch is. DMF clutches are solid discs, no springs. The dampening is taken care of by the flywheel itself.

I have experienced, used, installed, removed, etc. all of them. If you drive a lot in the city, in lots of stop and go, the DMF is nice. When they work, they work well. The idea is sound. Just the durability is often a liability. If you do a lot of highway driving, just cruising in 5th, and not much time spent using your left foot, the SMF conversion is probably better (and it won't break, ever... like, ever, never, ever...) and they are usually a little less money.

Oilhammer, I am about to hit 300,000 miles on what is reportedly the original clutch. My issue is that the clutch is starting to slip with heavy throttle when in 5th gear when at Interstate speeds. I can't think of any other reason the "slip" feel would occur besides excessive wear.

The car is totally stock except for the EGR delete (block off plate at exhaust manifold after a complete cleaning of intake and all GET components). I have been experiencing this phenomenon when driving from Ga to VA. It happened the last 2 or 3 trips and now that cooler temps have begun, it happened again this round trip yesterday/today.

Auto-correct got me! EGR not GET.

I would vote for the Sachs SMF Quiet clutch kit.

While it does not surprise me the friction part lasted 300k miles, it is pretty impressive the DMF has, if it is indeed all original. That is very good. How long have you owned the car?

And is the software 100% stock, you just drive around with the MIL on?

Oilhammer, yes the PCM is completely untouched. I hate having a CEL glowing on my dash, but I also hate EGR systems. Nothing like introducing waste into the intake! I Have had the car for the last 30k. I purchased it with the 1000 mile round trip to VA from Ga every 3 weeks specifically in mind. When I first started making this trip, I was getting 48-49 MPG consistently and this trip was an average of 43. Something is definitely amiss, I'm hoping the clutch will remedy the situation. My experience is with the Ford 7.3 DIT, and VW definitely goes about things differently.

OK, you should probably put your EGR system back to intact, or have a software change done.

And "waste" is kind of silly, as the exhaust gas originated INSIDE the cylinder in the first place.

With ULSD, a stock ALH engine has little downside to a functional EGR system, and actually has a couple benefits.

The EGR uses the exhaust as an inert gas (incombustible) in order to cool exhaust temps.

By doing this, it limits NOx gas formation which creates smog, and honestly makes your car stink.

Please make someone follow you in another car and ask them how they like the fumes coming out your tailpipe. The smell is very acrid - try it.

I may have a tune, but I always keep my catalytic and EGR functional.

I would like to give my kids a planet where they can actually breathe the air.

I cannot seem to win for losing! While I know this thread was about a clutch to begin with I have discovered another disappointing issue. This morning I started my car and while returning from taking the trash to the curb I saw something drip from underneath the car. After inspection I find that my injector pump is leaking! I cannot see where the leak is originating but it appears to be dripping from between the cast iron block and the aluminum housing. Any thoughts?

Have the pump rebuilt! 'Tis the season! Just put one back on yesterday for someone, and as soon as that one was buttoned up, another got towed in!

Sooner or later all the VE pumps will have been rebuilt or replaced, but they still seem to trickle in (no pun intended).

I did both my ALHs earlier this year (and just sold one ).

I assumed that would be the best solution. I was hoping perhaps someone would have a functional pump I could get while I send mine to Testmasters, a local company which rebuilds pumps, injectors and turbos.

Oilhammer,
Is there a specific model number location on this pump? I can see 2 different numbers engraved and want to call Testmasters to get an estimate and having the pump information will make the estimate much more accurate.

DFIS and one other place are the only two companies in North America that have the tools to rebuild the TDI Bosch VE pump. That seems to have been researched and confirmed many times over the years here.

I have BEGGED a local place, Taylor Diesel, who is a "Bosch authorized" place to get the necessary setup to properly rebuild these, and they just won't because they do not think they'll ever recoup the cost (the test bench is nearly $100k ).

So beware of anyone who says they can rebuild these, even if they are a Bosch place, because they may not be able to do everything.

Taylor does the Bosch pumps (both types) on other diesel engines all the time. They just can't (won't) do the TDIs.

"Resealing" a pump is not "rebuilding", just thought I should make that distinction too.

DFIS does fantastic work.

There are only two types of VE pumps on the ALH: 10mm or 11mm, and it has to do with which transmission it has, manual or automatic.

I have no experience with them, but have heard good things.

I have used Giles for nozzles, not pumps however. I have been through his shop in Markham Ontario.

Giles is local to me and is widely regarded as a guru with VE pumps.

Based on interactions and feedback from others, I wouldn't hesitate to trust him with a VE pump or nozzles. His work does not come cheap however.

Oilhammer,
Would you share contact infor for DFIS? Also, with an 01 ALH with a 5 speed, an I looking at a 10mm or 11?
Thanks

I'm not Oilhammer, but here you go:

http://www.dfispdx.com/

If it's stock, any ALH with a 5 speed would have come with a 10mm pump.

Awesome, Thanks!

I now have 321,xxx miles on the car and have finally gotten time and parts to do the clutch. I know y’all are probably going to laugh, but I would love recommendations for CORRECT gear oil for this transmission. Is there an aftermarket one (like Amzoil or Royal Purple) that meets all of the VW specs and is especially good? Thanks in advance!
Tank

3 years later its good to see your still driving a TDi. Did you end up getting your pump rebuilt by anyone? I would look at any Pentosin oil or others within spec. The oil thread has a lot of good info on this.