Time to lift the #farmenwagen

PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
Noticed a rear shock is sweating when I installed the winter tires. So, time to swap in a "lift kit" on the #farmenwagen to better handle the rough roads and payloads that are common to our commute.

What I'm after is any suggestions of things I may be missing or ought to heavily consider installing at the same time as the rest of the suspension. I may be susceptible to lines of reasoning like saving on cross border shipping costs.

For the record, all the bushings and mounts look really good. I'm mostly looking to do the parts required to lift the suspension now and I'll tackle the periphery parts (like drop links and sway bar mounts and and and...) at another time.

Below is a list I've compiled from my shopping cart at FCP Euro using the following thread (especially post #86):
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5498963-Tiggy-springs-2010-JSW-TDI-LOVE!/page4

Let me know what I may be missing!!

VW Strut Assembly - KONI STR.T 87501005
VW Shock Assembly - Koni STR.T 80501006
[URL="https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-coil-spring-front-tiguan-vag-5n0411105t"]VW Coil Spring - Genuine VW Audi 1K0511115CT

[/URL]Audi VW Strut Mount Kit - Lemforder MK6STRMOUNTKT
VW Shock Mount - Lemforder 1K0513353G
 
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mikewire

Active member
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
Location
SA, TX
TDI
TDI Inbound
Are new rear shock mounts required? Seems like you could reuse your existing ones.

Your list looks fine to me...but having the proper tools makes the difference on this job. You doing the install?
 

eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
When lifting your car you must create lower shock mount brackets to move them. There needs to be the same distance between the holes as the lift yeilds. If you lift 2 inches then the distance between the holes must be 2 inches.
I recommend using a bushing in the square tube to stop it from collapsing the bracket on the axle.
If you don't install the brackets the shocks Max out and you'll hear a thunk every time you go over a bump.



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dandywriter

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Location
Ottawa (Kanata), Canada, eh?
TDI
2014 Golf Wagon 6M
ID Parts has a kit for that. Either a refresh, or lift (using Tig springs and SW trailer springs). Details at
https://www.idparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=6549{3}510{287}509 . 3 options for shocks incl STR.R . Bolt kit also available (extra) - all in one place.

$5 shipping to Canada today over $50, for Black Friday...


Looking at selling the 06 BRM and buying a 12 or 13 GSW and this is what I'd get... Lifted the 06 1.5" and it is a different car in snow now, with no bad manners. BTW, my shock mounts looked new when this was done in 2012; I had ordered in new ones, and used them (cross-border return hassle), but if I had to do it again, I wouldn't have.
 
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PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
When lifting your car you must create lower shock mount brackets to move them. There needs to be the same distance between the holes as the lift yeilds. If you lift 2 inches then the distance between the holes must be 2 inches.
I recommend using a bushing in the square tube to stop it from collapsing the bracket on the axle.
If you don't install the brackets the shocks Max out and you'll hear a thunk every time you go over a bump.
Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk
Are you sure that's not more of a mk4 thing?

IIRC this is a swap using OEM parts that bolt in, such as the euro rear towing springs and the Tiggy fronts.

I'll keep the bump stops in mind, as they're not expensive and won't add to shipping costs.
 

PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
ID Parts has a kit for that. Either a refresh, or lift (using Tig springs and SW trailer springs). Details at
https://www.idparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=6549{3}510{287}509 . 3 options for shocks incl STR.R . Bolt kit also available (extra) - all in one place.

$5 shipping to Canada today over $50, for Black Friday...


Looking at selling the 06 BRM and buying a 12 or 13 GSW and this is what I'd get... Lifted the 06 1.5" and it is a different car in snow now, with no bad manners. BTW, my shock mounts looked new when this was done in 2012; I had ordered in new ones, and used them (cross-border return hassle), but if I had to do it again, I wouldn't have.
The shipping bonus is a great incentive but... they don't warranty parts like FCP does, and they also don't have the OEM springs. I did use that same page as a basis for building the kit at FCP.

Had you broken a spring and sprung a leak on the shock in the rear? Both cases happened on the d/s rear in a span of less than a year. We haul hundreds of pounds of feed home to the farm in the wagen, and drive (rapidly) over gravel roads, so I'd imagine my commute is a bit more rigorous and would see more abuse. Also, this car is 30% older than yours was at the time, and has nearly 279k km. I was thinking it would offer cheap insurance to replace the rear mounts... but if it's a waste by all means say so!
 

eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
Are you sure that's not more of a mk4 thing?

IIRC this is a swap using OEM parts that bolt in, such as the euro rear towing springs and the Tiggy fronts.

I'll keep the bump stops in mind, as they're not expensive and won't add to shipping costs.
Could be; however, be sure you're getting longer shocks, which is preferred, or the mounts need to move. One inch longer travel with two inches increased length for 2 inches lift. Know for a fact what you need before you end up with a rearend knock.
If the mounts are good there's no reason to change them.

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eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
Looking at the link I see the kit is stated at 2" unloaded lift. The shocks should be matched appropriately.
I have custom springs that give 1.5" lift loaded and 2.25" unloaded so the Dynamics are a bit different. I had to make the mount movement brackets and it is an mkiv.
I could probably have done a bit more research and found appropriate shocks, however, the bracket was easier.

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PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
Could be; however, be sure you're getting longer shocks ...

If the mounts are good there's no reason to change them.

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From all the threads I've read (IE every single one I could find) there seems to be zero consensus that longer shocks are required, even when using the Tiguan springs up front (rears are OE for the Sportwagen, as a towing package option).

If my assessment is incorrect, please advise.

As for the rear mounts, it's $30... so cheap insurance and little shelf space required to keep handy.

Think I'm going to pull the trigger by Monday.
 

eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
If you're lifting the vehicle longer shocks are necessary, however, the link you posted seems like it's matched appropriately mentioning the HD kit being the lift of 2".
Meaning the shocks supplied and the he configuration include longer, stiffer, shocks to increase the overall lift. This tends to mean sag will be greater at end of life. Nice to have a decent option listed though, I had to go custom to get what I wanted.
Hope you like the setup.

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PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
This tends to mean sag will be greater at end of life.
...

Hope you like the setup.
Thanks, I'm looking forward to it. I like messing with the locals, who all drive trucks and SUVs because they're farmers and that's what people do 'round these here parts.

Biggest part of the reason I intend to buy from FCP is their unmatched lifetime guarantee on parts... when they start to sag or fail I'll just turn around and warranty them. One replacement makes it start to pay for itself. We drive about 60k km/year, so chances are high we'll make good on that option at some point. :)
 
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PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
Ok cool, I kinda thought that was the case, but having held neither in hand before I wanted to confirm first.

Thanks!!
 

eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
I made a spreader tool out of an old 13mm bolt when I snapped my metalnerd tool. Works the same, just a bit of grinding.
I used a crow foot socket and long Allen for the top. Definitely want to take the stabilizer loose when you do the struts and longer struts can be fun to get in. I had to push down on the A-frame with my foot while positioning the strut.

Rear end was a lot easier.

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PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
^^^ pro tips, thanks!

Haven't seen a write up on the swap yet, so I'll probably do one when the time comes.
 

Wilkins

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Location
British Columbia
TDI
05 Jetta Wagon 5sp, 10 Sportwagen 6MT
I don't think there is a lot of extra effort involved in raising the MK VI as long as lift isn't too big. With tiggie springs in the rear and gas pressure billies up front I think I am up about an inch, maybe slightly less. If I'm looking at the right picture, the tiggie springs are pink violet green yellow Suprex and sitting on the bench were quite a bit shorter than the OEM springs. I bought the whole set up used so don't know if they were 2wd or 4wd, but strongly suspect the original supplier was ID Parts.
There is a good write up on Myturbodiesel for shock replacement on a MK V which is what a MK VI wagon is. https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/strut-shock-installation-and-replacement-mk5-vw-tdi-and-audi-a3/
The sway bar end links need a triple square, and one of the bolts has to be done up really tight plus something has to be put in with the lower arm at regular ride height. Important to come apart and go back together in the right order otherwise you find bolts under tension while trying to remove or replace them, I think I did some steps more than once before I had it figured out. Still pretty straightforward. I had a problem with one of the upper shock mount bolts, probably some foreign matter got in the hole which ended up with the purchase of a tap to clean it out. Should have been dead simple but I rushed a little.
When I dropped the car back onto it wheels there was a nasty noise which I thought was swaybar bushing but continued as a clunk and thump while driving. Eventually I traced it to a swaybar end link which had apparently failed, perhaps because of the angle it reached?
Front is a little more difficult. Yes you do need the strut spreader. The hub may have to come off the driveshaft to get the strut out of the spindle. Some claim to have done it without pulling the spindle but the angle of the CV joint gets quite extreme and could result in damage. The driveshaft nut is torqued way up and has to be that way for the bearings. Depending on which nut is on there the size can differ. Don't have the specs handy but torque is something like xx ft lbs + 180 degrees, done with the car on its wheels and a helper standing on the brakes. I did it with a 1/2 breaker bar but have heard a 4 ft 3/4 bar makes it easier. (know any farmers?:D) Once the nut is off you may need to press the spindle off the driveshaft, I had one side come off easily but the passenger side needed a puller, $12 at the local rental shop.
Most of the rest was pretty straightforward. Careful with the ABS connectors, I broke one just unclipping it from the strut. And I spent at least an hour trying to figure out how to get the plastic tray back in place over the strut top mounts. Did I forget to mention you might have to pull the windshield wiper arms? Mine came off OK the first time but then I got them mixed up and had to buy a puller to get them off the second time LOL. If they are backwards the arms scrape the hood. Maybe see if you can just bend the damn tray out of the way enough to get at the strut mount bolts.
I've replaced the shocks on MK IV's 3 times and the MK VI once. I think it takes about twice as long on the MK VI, but maybe that is just a lack of practice
 

Wilkins

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Location
British Columbia
TDI
05 Jetta Wagon 5sp, 10 Sportwagen 6MT
I don't think there is a lot of extra effort involved in raising the MK VI as long as lift isn't too big. With tiggie springs in the rear and gas pressure billies up front I think I am up about an inch, maybe slightly less. If I'm looking at the right picture, the tiggie springs are pink violet green yellow Suprex and sitting on the bench were quite a bit shorter than the OEM springs. I bought the whole set up used so don't know if they were 2wd or 4wd, but strongly suspect the original supplier was ID Parts.
There is a good write up on Myturbodiesel for shock replacement on a MK V which is what a MK VI wagon is. https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/strut-shock-installation-and-replacement-mk5-vw-tdi-and-audi-a3/
The sway bar end links need a triple square, and one of the bolts has to be done up really tight plus something has to be put in with the lower arm at regular ride height. Important to come apart and go back together in the right order otherwise you find bolts under tension while trying to remove or replace them, I think I did some steps more than once before I had it figured out. Still pretty straightforward. I had a problem with one of the upper shock mount bolts, probably some foreign matter got in the hole which ended up with the purchase of a tap to clean it out. Should have been dead simple but I rushed a little.
When I dropped the car back onto it wheels there was a nasty noise which I thought was swaybar bushing but continued as a clunk and thump while driving. Eventually I traced it to a swaybar end link which had apparently failed, perhaps because of the angle it reached?
Front is a little more difficult. Yes you do need the strut spreader. The hub may have to come off the driveshaft to get the strut out of the spindle. Some claim to have done it without pulling the spindle but the angle of the CV joint gets quite extreme and could result in damage. The driveshaft nut is torqued way up and has to be that way for the bearings. Depending on which nut is on there the size can differ. Don't have the specs handy but torque is something like xx ft lbs + 180 degrees, done with the car on its wheels and a helper standing on the brakes. I did it with a 1/2 breaker bar but have heard a 4 ft 3/4 bar makes it easier. (know any farmers?:D) Once the nut is off you may need to press the spindle off the driveshaft, I had one side come off easily but the passenger side needed a puller, $12 at the local rental shop.
Most of the rest was pretty straightforward. Careful with the ABS connectors, I broke one just unclipping it from the strut. And I spent at least an hour trying to figure out how to get the plastic tray back in place over the strut top mounts. Did I forget to mention you might have to pull the windshield wiper arms? Mine came off OK the first time but then I got them mixed up and had to buy a puller to get them off the second time LOL. If they are backwards the arms scrape the hood. Maybe see if you can just bend the damn tray out of the way enough to get at the strut mount bolts.
I've replaced the shocks on MK IV's 3 times and the MK VI once. I think it takes about twice as long on the MK VI, but maybe that is just a lack of practice
 

jesssssser

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Location
Buffalo
TDI
2010 Jetta Sportwagen ~118K
I've got Tiguan springs in the front w/ stock shocks, and JSW Towing springs in the back, with stock shocks. The only extra part that needed replacement was the sway bar ends. The originals succumbed to the WNY salty winter roads.

I've been running this setup for since Mar 2016 with no issues. Make sure to get er aligned after adding the parts. I did it get extra clearance for some bigger snow tires, and better drive-ability in the snow. To this day the vehicle handles great!



 

WestMass

Active member
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Location
Deerfield, MA
TDI
Two Manual 2012 JSW's, one mine, one hers. 2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5spd- Sold
IDParts lift kit installed

I installed the IDParts lift/towing suspension kit using Koni Yellow and HD springs after breaking my rear springs driving over 75 miles of frost heaves in northern Maine this past March. Car had about 125k miles on the original suspension, so it was time to make the change.

https://www.idparts.com/koni-suplex-springs-complete-suspension-set-a5mkvi-p-6549.html

One unintended consequence has been about a 2mpg hit in fuel economy because of the higher profile.

I used an older spring compressor to assemble the front struts. Not for the faint of heart, there is a whole lot of energy stored up getting those longer springs compressed enough to assemble the strut.

Here's a pic of the car after installation
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.p...-80aa0dc4-31a6-4af5-a6cb-ce8ebb3dc9be&cat=500
 
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PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
Thanks guys for the replies, tips and photos! I'm sure I'll spend some more reference time on them when I go to do the install.

Parts arrived yesterday from FCP. I truly hope that's the last time I ever use UPS now that FCP offers FedEx and USPS (perhaps due in some small part due to my multiple requests).

Unfortunately, the S3 control arm bushings (likely) didn't make it past customs. They were checked off on the packing manifest, but you can tell someone opened the shipping box and every single piece inside. Most of the boxes were left partially open and many were mangled. What a joke... xray it and run a dog by the box... it's obviously only car parts FFS.

For their part, FCP has been extraordinarily helpful and quick to respond.
 

PRY4SNO

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Edmonton, AB
TDI
2013 Touareg Execline
As of now, I have a few questions before I proceed. There's a chance I might try to see if I can get a couple small parts included with the control arm bushings to save on shipping.

-- Audi VW Control Arm Bushing - Febi 1K0199232K

.. Do I need the other bushing on the far end of the control arm (knuckle?) when I go to install this ^^^ part?
.. Are these pins required to maintain alignment settings (I live 100km from town so don't want to roast the tires driving in for an alignment)? Any reason why can't I just use bolts?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/control-arm-locating-pins/t10096~oev/


.. I didn't order bump stops, should I have? Or can I reuse the old ones if they're not damaged?


.. Anything I'm missing?
 

Wilkins

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Location
British Columbia
TDI
05 Jetta Wagon 5sp, 10 Sportwagen 6MT
The control arm bushings are pretty easy to re and re. There is a little bit of play in one of the three bolts which provides a bit of castor/camber adjustment, mostly castor. The pins are useful if nothing is changing in the set-up but since you are changing a number of components you need an alignment anyway. You should be able to get the new arm in almost the same place without the pins. For 100 km I wouldn't worry but it is up to you.

You can see how much movement there is in my old arm which was as far over as it would go. Castor was still just out of spec and still is just out. I suspect I might have a bent spindle.
You will need a puller to get the old bushing off the arm, then clean up the shaft, lube it nicely and push the new one into place. Try to get it in without stopping because once it stops it doesn't want to move easily again and the nut won't thread on until it is mostly in place.
 
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