Head studs a worthwhile upgrade on a 2.0 CR?

I am considering a GTB2260 turbo with appropriate tune. Can anyone tell me if upgraded head studs are a worthwhile investment?

Correct me if I am wrong, but you can install these without removing the head replacing one at a time?

Darkside has these:

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....0-high-tensile-12-9-headbolt-upgrade-set.html

You can replace them one at a time. Honestly the gtb2060vklr and the gtb2260vb turbo setups I ran we had just factory bolts.

you can get the ARL oem ones with some modifications they are perfect fit i think, cheap and much stronger than what you have now
otherwise ARP 220.000 PSI studs but this is more challenging job as they are not p&p and more difficult to put in..my way

In case you want bolts, ARP also have bolts ..

If there is no benefit, then I wouldn't bother, but it would seem that if you could do it without pulling the head, it is an easy upgrade.

go for bolts..
since you have the belt out..its also easy to remove the head..clean and put new gasket

Oh man, if I remove the head then I'm going to want to fiddle with that too. It's a slippery slope.

Why change the gasket if all is good?

From what I've read on here, there isn't really a need to upgrade the headbolts unless you're chasing 250+hp.

And yes you can replace headbolts one at a time if you are going to upgrade them and are keeping the head on.

If you do get the itch to push the envelope of your engine...Whitbread can supply you with a custom set of head studs for you. Custom Head Studs

I wouldn't change the gasket unless if it was blown, or if you need to inspect the valves for some reason. Even for overcautious preventive maintenance, you're not as likely to make it seal better than it did from the factory.

if you still have the stock fuel pump no need in my opinion, once you go past that its an expensive thing to go wrong if you dont, they are only 10.9 from the factory.

I would agree with ryanp even some time we do not get alone.
You are they now upgrade with his bolts now and gasket. As you start to go up in HP you will be ready .
With the Beetle I all was thinking in the back of my mine will the head gasket last as we run 7+ hr races with 30LB of boost. we run studs. The last race we at WG with 1 mile long straightaways we lost the gasket and burned 2 piston in seconds.
Now I O- ring the blocks and upgrade every thing and would replace the gasket every year.
I will do the same with the new CR engine swap.

CP3 pump is getting installed this weekend. Looking to go to whatever I can safely run up to without doing engine internals. I've been told that a CJAA is good up to 300hp.

Does anyone have a procedure for this on a common rail?

Thanks all for your comments.

While the cp3 is a worthwhile upgrade...a ton of power can be made without it. My point here is...that head studs may be beneficial...or even necessary despite not having an uprated pump.

travis45 said:

CP3 pump is getting installed this weekend. Looking to go to whatever I can safely run up to without doing engine internals. I've been told that a CJAA is good up to 300hp.

Does anyone have a procedure for this on a common rail?

Thanks all for your comments.

Click to expand...

Here's a how-to that I was able to follow in addition to my erWin manuals for my swap. The CRUA is still very similar to your CJAA in this regard. Good luck on the install!
http://www.fixmyvw.com/2micron-cp3-retrofit-pump-kit-for-cr-tdis/

Thanks 3L3M3NT. I sent Matt an email. Looks like his hardware is better than ARP.

The Cp4 is done at about 250hp, Roughly the same as the head and is pointless to retain if you have headwork

CP3, hopefully will be getting installed on Saturday pending on how willing my wife is to take care of our 11 month old twins. Head work is in my future... Ryan, I see you also have upgraded valves and valve springs. Only thing I don't have any knowledge of what is available for upgraded cams. Little by little...

travis45 said:

CP3 pump is getting installed this weekend. Looking to go to whatever I can safely run up to without doing engine internals. I've been told that a CJAA is good up to 300hp.

Does anyone have a procedure for this on a common rail?

Thanks all for your comments.

Click to expand...

If you are doing the timing belt at the same time, I'd recommend a tb kit with a tensioner stud rather than motor mount bolts. Of all my mods, the CP3 is my favorite.

it wont make 300 without the head off, unless some cams go in and they are magic! I've yet to test cams on stock head

Ryanp, thank you for your response.

What do you think this rig could make? If I add the GTB2260VK without head work and appropriate tune?

Also, I see Darkside posted an APR stud kit on the Facebook page. What is the difference between the headbolts on the Darkside website and these?

I'm not prepared yet for the head rework, piston, rods etc.

Cp3 pump in and running this morning. I also have one of your intercooler and piping to put in yet.

https://youtu.be/Smbu1LkkxDU

Cant mount studs without removing camshafts, just something to keep in mind.
This is why i would go for bolts.

Glad to see the cp3 kit working nicely.

Yes, thanks for your help Mac.

travis45 said:

I am considering a GTB2260 turbo with appropriate tune. Can anyone tell me if upgraded head studs are a worthwhile investment?
Correct me if I am wrong, but you can install these without removing the head replacing one at a time?
Darkside has these:

Click to expand...

My stock head warped (at around 176k miles, but still) between cyl 2+3.

Running around 2.4bar on a GTB2260 with the OEM 10.9 Tensile bolts it's a miracle they lasted that long! (2260 had been on for around 50k).

I was running CP3 pump too but this just kept rail p stable.
We gained only around 10bhp but a lot of torque with only CP3. Needs head and other parts doing to gain the full benefits. But then you get into tuning , as proper CP3 are not a bolt on solution

If you are going for GTB and wanting to use the car to the full potential (canyon carving, track / auto X) then I would certainly recommend headbolts. If it's just a daily driver and you only floor it occasionally at the 1/4 mile and joining highways, then to be perfectly honest I would leave it with stock until you start to get symptom of failure (pressurizing coolant system and coolant overflowing from expansion tank).

Cams are pointless on stock head.

PD 8V, but I have had stock 10.9 bults on my engine for 10 years now, and I think that not many people have raced a TDI as much as I have . Between 2,2-2,5 bar boost. Lowered CR , but not as low as a Common rail. Still no issues what so ever with the engine.

Thank you very much for your responses. My driving habits are more daily driving than racing. I do enjoy my share of wide open throttle when conditions allow.

If this is a relatively easy job to do, pulling one bolt at a time, I say why not.

I'm not sure how much stuff I need to pull off to gain access. How hard of a job? Does anyone have a procedure for this pulling one bolt at a time?

I don't want to pull the cam or whole head off if not necessary.

You just need to remove cyl head cover in order to pull out bolts. Fairly easy to do, dont worry. but wait till you get the big turbo.

Does someone know which ARP Head Stud Kit can be used for the CBBB engine?

arp studs need some machining to clear the camshafts
dont know if they made something plug and play
go for ARL bolts, strong enough

Are the ARL bolts the 12.9's Darkside sells? Link in the OP.

ARL bolts have a taller head, we modify some other 12.9 bolts to work

Thanks Ryan. So your bolts are a simple install? I don't need to remove the cam and I can do one at a time without removing the head or replacing the head gasket?