BRM valve cover mod for better oil control, positive ccv and modest power boost

I wanted to share a little project I had been pondering for a while which I was able to implement this past weekend. In an effort to resolve a small oil consumption issue I have traced it down to two probable causes as there are no external leaks. Oil is more than likely making its way past my rings, this car is an old man after all. I also have a bit of oil (any at all is more than I want) making its way into my intake, probably a few ounces every 3-5k miles. I had wanted to install a pro vent but I'm cheap and I like to create my own solutions. Another concept I wanted to implement was positive crankcase ventilation. Creating a vacuum inside the crankcase helps reduce windage losses and in my case, I hope to improve ring seal even if its marginal. The exhaust driven ccv systems are tried and ehh (1-3 in-hg at best) so I wanted to either install an actual vacuum air pump ($$$) or try another method which works only if you have a turbo. Just before the turbo inlet there is vacuum. With a stock intake system and paper filter I am guessing it produces enough (untested, speculation) to meet my goals which is why I chose this route. I set out to improve the factory oil catch while eliminating the control valve and improving flow volume. Enjoy!

I've had this cracked brm valve cover laying around for too long but before I tossed it I decided to investigate. Here is what's inside.

As you can see, air is drawn in from the front passenger side corner. It travels through a few baffles and goes up into the check valve chamber. It then moves through a small high velocity port where it is exhausted into a swirl chamber. After exiting the swirl chamber it moves to the final stage where it has to move around yet another air baffle.

Here is what I did. I am still testing this initial design but I have made the top access panels removable without much fuss should I choose to change or add anything. I used jb weld for the internal modifications, permanent if surface prep is taken seriously. For the top covers I used high temp victor reinz black silicone gasket maker. Good for 300 psi and it is holding up beautifully.

All buttoned up.


Essentially I created a second swirl chamber, doubled the volume of the velocity port, opened up the port exit with an upward/canted bias, double the outport cross section, and I added a windage screen plus a copper scrubber/filter. I did open up the inlet going to the cold side turbo pipe to a full 3/4 in. but its not pictured. Currently using the stock vent tube.

So far, I have noticed the car definitely runs better. Most noticeable is in the upper rpm range. I plan to install an external catch can to see if I accomplished any real oil separation but there is definitely a nice vacuum under throttle. In park, with the engine idling before I modified the vc, if I opened the oil fill cap it would dance around quite a bit. Now, it barely moves and when I push the go pedal, you can watch the cap get sucked down and that is with no load.

Let me know your thoughts and if you have any suggestions or questions.

Thanks for looking.

Interesting. Cant wait to see how this helps your oil consumption.

Update?

I'd love to see some before/after dynos showing a power increase from this mod.

LNXGUY said:

I'd love to see some before/after dynos showing a power increase from this mod.

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I agree it would be very cool to see what the actual gain is (if any) with such a simple mod and It would be easy enough to test. It is well documented that a 10-15 in.hg of vacuum is worth a real power increase by way of greatly reduced crankcase windage and improved ring seal. The question is, what is the best way to accomplish this on a daily driven car? There are several options ranging from high cost and impracticality, think dry sump oiling systems, to real vacuum air pumps (vz motorsports), to simpler more practical methods such as exhaust or turbo intake driven evacuation. The simplest method is a road draft setup, literally a hose ran down from the engine pointing towards the ground. At highway speeds, if done right, this method also pulls a vacuum.

In my case, I need to test for vacuum readings but along with that I need to figure out a good, practical way to control the oil coming out. So far I have accomplished pulling a vacuum of some unknown amount. I am however still pulling oil into my intake so I am working on improving my design. The challenge there is to limit pressure drop as much as possible as well as maintining sufficient flow volume.

Thanks for the interest.

So whats next Provent 200?

GreenLantern_TDI said:

So whats next Provent 200?

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Definitely not. I see you have one and I'm sure it works well and there's nothing wrong with throwing money at a problem as long as it actually works. Sticking to true diy fashion i like to create my own solutions. The provent is a very simple design with the star of the game being the coalescing filter. In the end I will probably incorporate a similar filter medium. Actually, I just found what seems to be a worthy candidate that I hope will prove to be as effective. Its a fine stainless screen filter I found at the local tractor supply. I've been brainstorming all evening on how to best incorporate it. This first go around my main goal was to gain vacuum. For oil control I wanted to try the most common methods found with a quick Google search and the copper scrubbers seem to be very popular and are easy to find. Now that I have vacuum and I have concluded one scrubber is not enough it's time to focus more on oil control and see where I wind up.

It appears to vibration or ultrasonic welded together, how the heck did you get it apart with out breaking it ???? I love your farm boy logic on this, I hope it works well as it would be great to send less high $$ oil to be burned !!! Please keep inf coming and thanks for sharing !!!!

What the heck is going on with your glow plug harness?

oldpoopie said:

What the heck is going on with your glow plug harness?

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I made it, works great! Don't worry, I broke down and paid the big bux for 4 new ngk glow plugs. No work-around for those....

Keep in mind that this car has 430k miles and I only paid 1500 for it a year ago. You wouldn't believe it just riding in it but even so, I am going to save money where I can. Just ask ol' greenlantern, even the good ones have a poor return on investment and you will not see me dropping 17k into this one (still don't know how he did it?!? Lol).

How is the DSG fairing at that mileage?

oldpoopie said:

How is the DSG fairing at that mileage?

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Seems fine. Shifts are smooth and fast. Every now and again it will shift funny if I have to let off the pedal just before it is supposed to upshift but I think that's common with these box's as well as some clunkiness every once in a while. I cut it some slack though as it had it's very first oil change at 380k when I bought it... Original mechatronics and clutch pack.

Update?
CEL?
Also what about the vacuum line that hooks to the rear of the valve cover? What is its purpose? Do you modify it at all?

Sorry for the lack in updates, it's been a busy couple of weeks.

My plan moving forward is to increase the flow volume since I am going to incorporate at least one filter. The valve cover has a built-in vacuum reservoir which is why a vac line hooks to it. This reservoir would serve well as a second crankcase vent which would gain me the volume I'm looking for. Its large enough to fit some sort of filter and it already has 3 chambers if I decide to make use of them. In doing this I would have to run an external vacuum reservoir but there is plenty of room if I go this route.

Gotta find time to work on this soon! More pics to come.

But what is the vaccuum chamber used for? Vaccuum storage? Im thinking of a similar mod to yours exect i was just going to open the two chambers from the outside remove all the guts and reinstall the caps. My Provent will seperate the oil.

Sorry guys I'm getting in this a little late but, what is the gain from doing this again? I'm new to the diesel world (especially VW), and still trying to figure this car out.

The gain is exactly as the thread title reads. Better oil control, reduced crank case pressure and when a vaccuum is created instead of excess pressure in the engine more power will be produced. Increased crank case pressure increases valve cover internal pressure and blows oil out the ccv line into the intake. Reducing the pressure should reduce the oil that is being pushed out.

Cool, Thanks. That does make more sense. I wasn't sure where the added power would come from. Thank you

Any updates on this?

Gutted and Bored...VC Bypass

Well i decided not to wait any longer for a replay from the OP and ventured into my own VC bypass. Unlike the OP i just gutted the VC and didnt install any cooper mesh or anything like that. My goal was pure air flow increase.

Gutted the valve, spring and orific plate. Reamed all the air flow ports to flow way more air. Seems to have went from 3/8" openings to almost 1".

I used Plastiweld and also rivited my gally cover plate in. Dont want it falling into the engine. I also Plastiwelded the two round covers back onto the VC. Now to Ultra Black the VC back to the car and shes done. I will keep this thread posted.

Sorry again for the lack of updates. Car is still running strong and I have not experienced any negative effects from performing this mod. I still plan to pull things apart again to improve the existing design and to make some more "dedicated" improvements. Now that we have another member who has taken the plunge I am eager to see the results when using a pro-vent. My understanding of the coalescing filter is that it requires a pre-filter or else it will saturate in very short order. They are intended to filter oil "aerosols" only so the larger oil droplets and vapors need to be removed beforehand. Maybe (hopefully) the provent is different but I am working on a dual filter setup which will address this potential issue.

Thanks

Heres a great animation of how the Provent works.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...Hy2wD8&usg=AFQjCNESvC8sUv2cEYDWuD7xySHdNFGqTQ

It looks like the ProVent has both a pressure relief valve and a vacuum relief valve. If this is accurate then the provent would have to be modified or else it could defeat the purpose (in part) of this mod. It could be made to be adjustable which would be cool if somehow you were pulling more than 15 in.hg.

I see what your saying. Ill check it out tom and post back.

The vacuum valve closes if the inlet to the provent has more vacuum than the outlet.
If the valve cover has more vacuum than the turbo suction line than it closes.
If the air filter was completly plugged and starving the engine for air this valve closes.
So this valve shouldnt affect a turbo vehicle during normal operation.
The lid to the Provent has a pressure relief and the other valve is a vacuum stop.

GreenLantern_TDI said:

The vacuum valve closes if the inlet to the provent has more vacuum than the outlet.
If the valve cover has more vacuum than the turbo suction line than it closes.
If the air filter was completly plugged and starving the engine for air this valve closes.
So this valve shouldnt affect a turbo vehicle during normal operation.
The lid to the Provent has a pressure relief and the other valve is a vacuum stop.

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I see and it makes perfect sense. In essence you are saying it is designed to work with an existing pcv system, like what is found on all modern gasoline engines where off-throttle vacuum would be higher in the intake manifold due to the closed throttle plate. I still feel like I read somewhere on the bimmerforums that someone had to modify this valve in order to take full advantage of the pre-turbo vacuum. I will see if I can find the link. Maybe I read it wrong which is very possible...

Concerning the route I am taking, I have been looking at the brass in-line filters that are used for compressed air. I need to source just the element to see if it is going to be too restrictive. They filter down to 40 microns, not great but not too bad if it can be had for cheap. Harbor Freight has a large in-line filter kit with one of these brass filters for 15 bucks but the housing is not needed. I am showing that Fastenal has just the filters and there is one close to me so I will have a look today.

Will keep everyone posted.

Your cheap filter ya wanted....

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=455799

Thanks for the link. I will consider it.