TDI Ranger Build

darkhorse said:

Looking really good, Nick!

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Thanks Richard!

No MAF?

Growler said:

No MAF?

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I'll go with a MAF-less tune. No big deal to add it in if I want to do that in the future.

Nick just wants to do this http://youtu.be/ixAMwN11cfQ

JFettig said:

Nick just wants to do this http://youtu.be/ixAMwN11cfQ

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ummmm....no.

JFettig said:

Nick just wants to do this http://youtu.be/ixAMwN11cfQ

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Now that's some secound hand smoke

i'm sure you thought of this but hurst makes a short shifter for the M5OD to help solve your clearance issue on your shifter

looking really good man, nice fab work and pipe routing....clean, just the way I like it!! .... does your ranger use a heater control valve? I don't see one on the firewall...if there is one behind the dash it could stop flow from the small coolant nipple on the back of the head.... I'm sure you already addressed this.... keeeeep us updated!!! BTW...is that the slot above the heater hoses for the ford ecm?...looks like it's begging for some bosch electronics!!

adam4584 said:

i'm sure you thought of this but hurst makes a short shifter for the M5OD to help solve your clearance issue on your shifter

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I actually didn't think of that! (using a short shifter to reduce the throw so I don't hit the dash). Thanks for the idea.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-3915020/media/images/year/2000/make/ford/model/ranger

jimbote said:

looking really good man, nice fab work and pipe routing....clean, just the way I like it!! .... does your ranger use a heater control valve? I don't see one on the firewall...if there is one behind the dash it could stop flow from the small coolant nipple on the back of the head.... I'm sure you already addressed this.... keeeeep us updated!!! BTW...is that the slot above the heater hoses for the ford ecm?...looks like it's begging for some bosch electronics!!

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Thanks Jim. Yes, the pipe work is ending up very simple which was my goal from the beginning.

The heater control valve was actually on the engine bay side. I was hoping to use it but deleted it and my coolant glow plug housing to keep the heater hose routing simple. The design is fairly different from a yota in that it bypasses the heater core while maintaining full flow through the circuit....I'll see if I can find a picture.

One question I haven't been able to answer is whether or not deleting this bypass valve will have severe ramifications on the HVAC system performance? With the vw hvac system the heater core is bypassed by the temp door. Is this the same with the ford system or is the heater core always in series with the a/c condensor?

The slot above the heater core is begging for some bosch goodness but it isn't nearly wide enough to work. I'll open up the slot and fab up a box to mount the ecu.

I have the stupid design on the big truck, the heater core is always active, I have a valve in line at the firewall, I shut it off during hot weather. Some people add the control valve from the Ranger to the Superduties.

Well that sucks. I'll take another look at it and see how I can make it work. Thanks for chiming in Sam.

Instead of the ranger valve I used this vacuum-operated valve to stop flow to the heater core on my superduty.

Thanks Honeydew. If I were to use something like that it would completely cutoff flow to the heater core and therefore my small coolant port of the back of the head. I could reroute it to the inlet of the water pump which isn't the end of the world.

The nice thing about the Ranger bypass is it doesn't shutdown the flow, just bypasses the heater core.

Here's a pic I found online:



Normal operation the flap allows the lines to flow straight through to the core. When vacuum is applied, the flaper closes those ports off and the coolant bypasses the core completely while still maintaining flow.

Cheers Nick, wasn't sure how you were setup but it does sound like the ranger valve would work better for you. Bonus is they are only around $20.

Coolant Lines, Version 2

Thanks for the feedback guys. I've now installed the coolant bypass valve. The small line coming off of the head goes into the line nearest you that returns to the water pump (the modified hard pipe). The far line is the large outlet on the back of the head (black plastic outlet pipe).

Charge Air Pipes cont'd

My buddy had a heck of time welding these junk chinesium pipes. He also tackled the airbox plate, MAP bung and CCV bung for me. Hell of a guy.

A couple of guys thought the weird discoloration might be due to the pipes being anodized? Anyone ever seen this before? I'll throw a coat of paint on them once I cut the holes for the bungs.

I also started fabbing up a bracket to hold my proportioning valve, fuel pressure regulator, power steering reservoir and the fuel filter.

I still need to figure out the placement of the weldnuts for the latter two and weld them in place. Oh, I'm also going to be welding in some weldnuts for the Diestl mod when I decide to add that in.

Thanks Jon. It is so simple I didn't use much of my ebay piping kit. I thought it was powder coated but this behavior rules that out I think.

Heh, I thought you were in the middle of posting more so I deleted my post, here it is:

Is the piping anodized or is it powder coated? I seem to remember it being more of a powder coat.

We do have some anodized pulleys that went in an oven for another process and they did turn out a bronze color similar to what you see but not quite.

I do like the simplicity of that piping!

That is strange on the piping color change !.... It may just be a clear coat that doesn't like heat .... Looks cool to me .... Looks like a beetle PS reservoir .... Very good config for swaps IMHO, are you going MAF'less? .... Nice and clean under there, good work

Nick, your work is impressive! When you get this truck on the road, I'm going to want a ride.

greengeeker said:

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Patina...

darkhorse said:

Nick, your work is impressive! When you get this truck on the road, I'm going to want a ride.

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You bet Richard. Would be fun to run next to (ok, ok, behind) your Cummins. We were actually visiting family down in Beldenville last weekend. Next time I'll have to drive the truck and stop by.

Kriesel said:

Patina...

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haha. I have patina all over my frame and header panel.

I finished up the bracket and the paint is drying as I type. Pictured: Jetta/Golf fuel filter bracket, New Beetle power steering reservoir, fuel pressure regulator, brake proportioning valve.




And these are the fuel connections for the fuel pressure regulator. From bottom to top: supply from tank, return to tank, supply to filter.

Charge Air Pipes, cont'd

I still had to open up the holes for the MAP and the CCV before I could throw some paint on the pipes. Here's some detail of my ebay MAP bung kit if you haven't seen one of these before:

Cooling System, part 3

I finally got around to painting the radiator and intercooler brackets. With these finished I was able to unwrap them and do my final install.







Probably not necessary to put the grille and whatnot on at this point but it felt like progress.

Do you have the 12mm MAP sensor adapter for the 4bar map you'll be using with that 2056VK?

Yup. This kit came with both adapters. The only problem will be getting this one out! It's a snug fit.