Clutch change procedure G60 and DMF flywheels

I figured it out - I just cracked the nut to allow me to switch the power steering line up out of the way. Just a smidge of hydraulic fluid seeped out...hopefully not enough for me to worry about bleeding the line.

Dan

Torque values for clutch kit

Putting a G60/VR6 Sachs clutch kit (from Bora Parts) in my 2003 Golf TDI.
Just disassembled everything this morning. Actually went fairly well.
I have not received my kit as of yet & was wondering what the torques are for the flywheel bolts. This information may be included with the kit. (not sure) The pressure plate values are 20 nm. (correct?)
I do not have a Bentley manual & just want to make sure I have the information I need when the time comes. Thanks to all on this forum.
Great source of info. By the way I left the halfshaft flanges on the gearbox.
It was tight but came out ok.
Mike

I find this thread very helpful for that stuff.
-BB

Torque values for clutch kit

Thanks BB
That is perfect................

Just did a clutch for a member with all the parts coming from a vendor here. The flywheel bolt pattern was stamped wrong, thrust bearing needed to be shaved down to fit the fork, and the rear main seal needed the bottom bolt threads tapped. So yeah nothing could be figured out until it was all apart and even then, flywheel had to be overnighted. Started late Friday night, got the flywheel Wednesday, and the rear main didn't sit properly for some reason and so I had to pull everything apart and find a new seal to replace that one.
The only good part is I can do the job in 3.5 hours start to finish now!

Benjamim

I am removing the tranny and having problems getting the 12 point triplesquare bolts off the drive axles. Any suggestions? I can get a ratchet in there to losen them, no room.

Use a small extension, um and only do them at the top of the axle. Move the axles around to get all 6 bolts. If the bit does not go in use some gentle persuasion to get it seated.

Benjamin

Here's a tip for holding the flywheel for removing it or torquing it down. Just use a standard household flat prybar and a 3/8" extension, as shown in the photo. In the photo I am holding it for removal, just flip it over when torquing the bolts back down.



Regards,
Michael

I just want to point out one critical piece of information I've found in doing this. If you removed the passenger side axle flange to give some extra room when reinstalling the transmission (I found it necessary), BE SURE to put the flange back in BEFORE completely mating the engine and transmission.

The passenger side drive shaft gets in the way of replacing the axle flange, the transmission needs to be at least 3 cm away from the engine and the drive shaft pushed way high to get the flange to fit back into the transmission. On second thought, it might be better to insert the flange before you attempt the last step of fiddling with the transmission and engine to get them to mate. Trust me, the last thing you want to do after getting them to mate and bolted together is to have to unbolt them and slide them apart enough to get the flange (or half shaft) to fit back in the transmission. I know, I found out the hard way

I was able to do my clutch job without removing axle flanges. Overall the job wasn't do difficult.

Me too...

How do you remove Shift linkage cables

How do you remove Shift linkage cables? I sure it is easy but looking at them I do not see how they come off. I Need to replace the clutch on my 2000 Jetta TDI and having trouble getting motivated.

I just finished mine on the b4 the hardest single part was the lower bolt on the mount in the rear I had to pull the trans to the rear to slide it out. I forgot the flanges interfered with removal a minor holdup. I used a 2x4 with 2 sleepers under it and 4 cargo straps. 2 to hold the 2x4 from sliding down and one to hold the motor up and the 4th to pull the engine forward when needed. my legs and back are bruised from one maning it in and out. I lined the clutch disk with a big socket and a pipe slid over it and getting the trans into the splines took about 15 minutes. I would suggest working it out from the front position and not the wheel well as I did , I put it in from the front and it proved to be a better view. now just the tb and the nozzles and its ready to roll. Always try to find help even if it for opening beers and organizing the array or tools!

For the axles I used lots of extentions and an impact wrench on low(not for the faint of heart) But its easier than a monkey wrench on the axle and less labor. For the shifter linkage take care on the cable that you have to flip up the plastic. The plastic can get brittle especially if you have had battery leakage issues.

Just replaced the flywheel and clutch in my 04 wagon. Gwillies instructions were a great help. I found it was also a great help to have 2 other people to help muscle the tranny in and out and also to help when your arms are too tired to hold up.

A couple of thing I ran into that were different than the instruction Before you unbolt the trans. unplug the reverse sensor near the shift linkage and unplug the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on top of the differential. I also removed the trans mount plate it really helped with clearence and i too didn't have to remove the drive flanges.

I had 260,000 on my OE clutch and DMF it rattled at idle but was quite with the pedal depressed. I found that the throwout bearing was toast.
The DMF was toast too it had slipped and locked up to the point that we could not get the two pieces to line up to get to the bolts out. We had to use a die grinder to cut the center hub out to access the bolts. My rearmain seal was leaking too, cheap insurance to go ahead and replace it when ever your this far into this amount of disasembly.
The whole process took right at 12 hours with 3 people working on car.
I'm sure we could cut a few hours out of the process if we had to do it again.

I must send out a big THANK YOU to DanG144 for the use of his tools and shop, DidJettarun for his help and muscle, and piper109 for his reassuring words while replacing my rear main seal and the use of his tools and last but not least to Gwillie for compiling the pictures and writing the install instructions.

Clutch change from DMF to G60 setup

I am having a problem getting the DMF off the crankshaft. The movable part of the DMF is stuck, covering the crankshaft bolts. I have used a punch and large 2 pound hammer to try and move the inner portion but it is stuck. Any suggestions on what to do will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Traderbob

I had to use a die grinder and about 4 wheels to cut it out. We tried other things, but that is what finally worked.

DanG

I was hopeing for something easier, but that will be what I will probably do. Thanks Traderbob

Pressure Plate Bolt Size HELP!

I purchased the Sachs G60/VR6 clutch and flywheel and took it to a shop to have them replace it. Halfway through the job the mechanic calls me and tells me the pressure plate bolts are too small. I called the place where I purchased the kit from and they suggested I get 5mm longer bolts. They said they needed to be M7x30mm or M7x35mm in grade 10.9. I can't find these online anywhere. Mcmaster car has them in M6, is it possible that is what they meant? If not, anyone know where I can get these longer bolts?

Ironforger said:

I was able to do my clutch job without removing axle flanges. Overall the job wasn't do difficult.

Click to expand...

Makes for a nice handle as well!

Fantastic write up! For what it's worth a couple of things that I did differently were: I also didn't remove the flanges (if engine is leaning forward enough towards the bumper it makes it much easier to get things bolted up again which seemed to be the only time there was an issue - rotating slightly counter-clockwise on removal made it very easy), removed the entire slave cylinder still attached to the fluid line so no bleeding was necessary, and never removed the mysterious (to me anyway) "thin metal shim like plate between the transmission and the engine" (apparently located on the back of the motor near the down pipe) as my car didn't seem to have this ('02 Jetta). I also completely removed the entire top transmission mount (5 bolts in total) giving me lots of additional room to work with - no power steering line issues whatsoever.

I went with the Valeo SMF kit and so far am quite impressed with how smooth everything is. Still getting used to the clutch engagement as it does seem to be different although pleasantly light (perhaps because my TO bearing was completely shot - it fell apart as soon as I touched it).

Heck, I didn't even remove the tranny. I just separated everything enough to get the old clutch out and the new one in. Axle flanges stayed on the diff. All went fairly well. Took longer than I had hoped.

I have one issue. I disconnected the speedo sensor wire and with a cursory look tonight I haven't found where the sensor is. A picture would be worth a lot to me right now.

looking for photo. Look aft and inboard of the gear shifting cable hookup, on top of the differential. It is vertically mounted.

Awesome!

Once again, Thanks for the help

i'm starting to wonder now if I have a flywheel, pressure plate or master cylinder problem. Hopefully, it's not more than one of them gone bad but, When accelerating and shifting through the gears the other day, the pedal felt as if it wasn't returning. My wife called me yesterday and described the same problem on her way home from work. Then, this morning, she said the clutch was slipping when she went to take off and she had a difficult time getting it to move, followed by the same strange feel of no resistance as you're letting the pedal out. The car has had this really jerky shudder as you let the clutch out when you are moving the car from a standstill in either 1st or reverse gear but not knowing any better, I just thought it was normal for these cars. Now, after reading in the forums about problems with DMFs, pressure plates and clutches, I'm starting to wonder whether I need to pull the tranny and replace the whole engine-to-transmission engagement system or if I may be lucky enough to not need all of that. It seems to me that the bad jerking when taking off and the clutch pedal not feeling right are probably not related. One seems hydraulic and the other seems mechanical. Comments? Suggestions?

Check your brake fluid reservoir level. The clutch can only use it down to about the middle, to save it for the brakes.

It sounds as if you may have a slave cylinder leak on your clutch.

OK, will do.

I left the flanges on. I also removed the left drive axle completely.

The flanges caused me a lot of issues. I opted to pull them for install, which created a nice bath of tranny fluid as my plug didn't work too well. so i waited a week, calmed down, used the pela to suck out the oil and got a helper. Went back in pretty easily. with the passenger axle pulled high and tight, I had no issues getting the flange back in.

so what is the minimum thickness of a clutch disk can be say on a 02 beetle with a sachs DMF. and what is the original thickness.