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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 11th, 2017, 10:15   #16
IndigoBlueWagon
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You should put a new fuel filter in the car. If you didn't replace it after purchase, there's not telling how long it's been in the car or what's in it. Could have frozen up overnight. Get the car somewhere warm, put on a new filter, prefill it with Diesel Purge or similar. I bet the car will start.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 13:22   #17
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So, bought a new battery. Replaced the fuel filter. Put new O-Rings on the return valve on top of the fuel filter.

I hooked up my MightyVac up to the return fuel line AT the fuel filter and i was able to fill the clear line up about halfway at one point and then after that i was not able to get any fuel through the line. (Or strugged to get a small amount.)

THEN I hooked my MightyVac up to the feed line on the filter(from the fuel tank) and i was able to suck some gasoline perfectly fine. It filled up my plastic jug. So the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter IS NOT plugged.

I am confused why i struggled to get fluid through the clear hose when i had the hand vacuum pump hooked to the return line!

Now the problem is my starter motor will not turn the motor over. Kicks it over once or twice. So i cant even really do anything with it now except replace the starter motor.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 17:54   #18
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i'm in the same boat as him.. used my 03 jetta alh Friday parked it tried to start it this mourning and nothing. changed fuel filter , checked fuel shut off solenoid i'm getting 10.62 volts thought it was supposed to get 12v . loosened top of injectors 1 to 4 and got fuel bubbles at the top. checked the asv and its good ..*** is wrong with this car !!!!
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Old December 11th, 2017, 21:04   #19
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Rally, there is not a lot of clearance in the pump so once you suck the air through and it's full of fuel it will barely flow. Being that you're in the salt belt did you check all the battery/starter/ground cables?

mcart, did you fill the filter with fuel? It can take a lot of cranking to get fuel through with a filter change. Might be a leak on the pump letting air in when the seals got cold and nothing to do with the filter.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 21:13   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport View Post
[
I hooked up my MightyVac up to the return fuel line AT the fuel filter and i was able to fill the clear line up about halfway at one point and then after that i was not able to get any fuel through the line. (Or strugged to get a small amount.)
Does the vacuum hold steady if you stop pumping? It can be slow, but should fill the IP.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 05:26   #21
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Originally Posted by jokila View Post
Does the vacuum hold steady if you stop pumping? It can be slow, but should fill the IP.
It held vacuum momentarily. It would slowly lose vacuum but it would not fill up the fuel supply line to the UP.

I just ordered a Bosch reman starter off rock auto for 180, and that's including the core! Great price IMO.

KLX, that is my next task. I plan on towing the car to my dad's garage to further work on her and diagnose. It's not supposed to crack 30 degrees all week long and it's miserable working on it outsise. I will be inspecting the grounds and leads from the battery to the starter next and I will share what i find.

Thanks again, I will keep y'all posted! Stay with me!

I will keep you guys posted
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Old December 12th, 2017, 06:40   #22
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One: you said that you "worked through" the no start thread, but didn't say what you actually did. Maybe you did things that you thought could be the problem, but there is something that you missed. Without knowing what you did, I don't know how to help.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 08:18   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport View Post
It held vacuum momentarily. It would slowly lose vacuum but it would not fill up the fuel supply line to the UP.
I just ordered a Bosch reman starter off rock auto for 180, and that's including the core! Great price IMO.
KLX, that is my next task. I plan on towing the car to my dad's garage to further work on her and diagnose. It's not supposed to crack 30 degrees all week long and it's miserable working on it outsise. I will be inspecting the grounds and leads from the battery to the starter next and I will share what i find.
Thanks again, I will keep y'all posted! Stay with me!
I will keep you guys posted
It should hold the vacuum. It sounds like you have seals that are bad. That is why the fuel is not making it back to the miteyvac.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 09:04   #24
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Quote:
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It should hold the vacuum. It sounds like you have seals that are bad. That is why the fuel is not making it back to the miteyvac.
I may have figured out why im not able to suck any fuel through the IP. The bentley manual says that the fuel cut off solenoid needs to be open which means KEY ON. I was trying to bleed the IP with the key off, which means the fuel cut off solenoid is preventing fuel from moving within the IP. So later today i will be trying to bleed the IP lines with the KEY ON(solenoid open) I hope that takes care of the bleeding. After that im removing the starter to get ready for the replacement one.

Whitedog- Read through the thread and that will tell you what I have done so far.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 10:17   #25
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Yes i pre filled the filter .. pulling it in the garage and go over everything under the hood .. was to dark last night .. maybe i can find whats going on with it .. i also checked the timing belt it is in tack. 190000 miles never had any trouble like this before. Another question , when you loosen the fuel lines at the top of the injectors and you crank it i am getting fuel bubbling out of all 4 injectors . or should it stream out ? thanks for the help..
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Old December 12th, 2017, 10:33   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarthur70 View Post
Yes i pre filled the filter .. pulling it in the garage and go over everything under the hood .. was to dark last night .. maybe i can find whats going on with it .. i also checked the timing belt it is in tack. 190000 miles never had any trouble like this before. Another question , when you loosen the fuel lines at the top of the injectors and you crank it i am getting fuel bubbling out of all 4 injectors . or should it stream out ? thanks for the help..
Depends how loose the connect is, but yes it will shoot out pretty good, quickly. Makes a nice mess if you don't put down some rags.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport View Post
I may have figured out why im not able to suck any fuel through the IP. The bentley manual says that the fuel cut off solenoid needs to be open which means KEY ON. I was trying to bleed the IP with the key off, which means the fuel cut off solenoid is preventing fuel from moving within the IP. So later today i will be trying to bleed the IP lines with the KEY ON(solenoid open) I hope that takes care of the bleeding. After that im removing the starter to get ready for the replacement one.
Whitedog- Read through the thread and that will tell you what I have done so far.
Don't know about that, I've changed my IP twice and easily bled sucking with a clear tube, car off.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 11:02   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport View Post
I may have figured out why im not able to suck any fuel through the IP. The bentley manual says that the fuel cut off solenoid needs to be open which means KEY ON. I was trying to bleed the IP with the key off, which means the fuel cut off solenoid is preventing fuel from moving within the IP. So later today i will be trying to bleed the IP lines with the KEY ON(solenoid open) I hope that takes care of the bleeding. After that im removing the starter to get ready for the replacement one.

Whitedog- Read through the thread and that will tell you what I have done so far.
Don't get your hopes up. The solenoid only allows fuel to the high pressure plunger. Has nothing to do with fuel moving from the inlet to the outlet lines.

Look at the pump. Fuel flows through the body up through the QA and out the return. The solenoid is on the high pressure pump head.
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The Black Sheep (Only gasser): 85 CJ, 4.2 w/4.0 Head and Mopar FI.

Past: 85 Mitsubishi PU, 4D55T; 81 Rabbit, 1.6; 80 Dasher, 1.5; 79 Rabbit, 1.5
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Old December 12th, 2017, 12:58   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport View Post
Whitedog- Read through the thread and that will tell you what I have done so far.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398

You are talking about this thread? Right?
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Old December 12th, 2017, 13:12   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport View Post
I may have figured out why im not able to suck any fuel through the IP. The bentley manual says that the fuel cut off solenoid needs to be open which means KEY ON. I was trying to bleed the IP with the key off, which means the fuel cut off solenoid is preventing fuel from moving within the IP. So later today i will be trying to bleed the IP lines with the KEY ON(solenoid open) I hope that takes care of the bleeding. After that im removing the starter to get ready for the replacement one.
Whitedog- Read through the thread and that will tell you what I have done so far.
You missed the part about it not holding a vacuum. Regardless if you need the key on (you don't), the fact it doesn't hold a vacuum (assuming you have the miteyvac connected solidly) means air is entering the fuel lines. The seals are bad.

Sometimes it can be a temporary situation and the seals will allow the prime to take place, but in the end the seals are going south on you.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 13:23   #30
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I should add about the vacuum level drop. It should steadily and slowly drop as fuel makes its way to the miteyvac. You then would pump again to draw more vacuum and repeat.

What I am referring to is a quick drop in vacuum. It doesn't hold it for a mere second or two, tops.
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