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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 12th, 2017, 10:25   #16
VE1.9
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I think the fuel door switch will indeed end up being the issue. I'm guessing there is an internal short between the illumination wire and the +12V constant feed at the switch. It makes sense because the whole door uses the same illumination source, so it would power all the LEDs in that door.

The reason it doesn't light up all the red LEDs in the car, is because the doors are not directly wired to the dash dimmer switch. If you were to look at the connectors for the door harness at the base of the A-pillar, you would find that there is no illumination wire (grey/blue) feeding into the door harness. The illumination source for the doors comes from the window motor module, not the dimmer switch. The LEDs in the doors will still vary with intensity by operating the dimmer switch, but this is done through CAN-bus, not by the dimmer switch itself.

The cars with the older 1J0 CCMs might have had a direct illumination feed to the doors from the dimmer switch, but the newer 1C0 ones do not.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 12:55   #17
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I had the same thing when the lock module went.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 13:13   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VE1.9 View Post
I think the fuel door switch will indeed end up being the issue. I'm guessing there is an internal short between the illumination wire and the +12V constant feed at the switch. It makes sense because the whole door uses the same illumination source, so it would power all the LEDs in that door.
But some people (including myself) have the issue on the passenger side. So how could a bad fuel door switch on the driver's side affect that?
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Old December 12th, 2017, 14:09   #19
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But some people (including myself) have the issue on the passenger side. So how could a bad fuel door switch on the driver's side affect that?
In the OP's case I believe it's the fuel door switch because he said he removed it and the LEDs shut off. However, this problem could be caused by any of the switches in the door since they are all wired to the same illumination source ( if one turns on, then all of them turn on), the problem is not exclusive to the fuel door switch.

In your case, I would suspect that either the window switch, or lock/unlock switch has the same internal short that the OP's fuel door switch has. So either one (or possibly both) of those switches is bad, or the window motor module (the actual source of illumination) has gone bad and is supplying permanent power to the switches. The CCM is a distant possibility as well, but not very likely.

I would start by unplugging each of the switches to see if the other switch's LEDs turn off. If they do, then you've found the bad switch. If they don't, check each switch for internal shorting with a multimeter. There should be no continuity between any of the pins. If there is, then that particular switch is bad. If both switches test out OK, then it's likely an internal short in the window motor module.
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Old December 12th, 2017, 14:50   #20
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Thanks for the info/advice. Too bad the switches on the passenger door can't be accessed as easily as on the driver's door!
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Old December 12th, 2017, 18:51   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VE1.9 View Post
In the OP's case I believe it's the fuel door switch because he said he removed it and the LEDs shut off. However, this problem could be caused by any of the switches in the door since they are all wired to the same illumination source ( if one turns on, then all of them turn on), the problem is not exclusive to the fuel door switch.

In your case, I would suspect that either the window switch, or lock/unlock switch has the same internal short that the OP's fuel door switch has. So either one (or possibly both) of those switches is bad, or the window motor module (the actual source of illumination) has gone bad and is supplying permanent power to the switches. The CCM is a distant possibility as well, but not very likely.

I would start by unplugging each of the switches to see if the other switch's LEDs turn off. If they do, then you've found the bad switch. If they don't, check each switch for internal shorting with a multimeter. There should be no continuity between any of the pins. If there is, then that particular switch is bad. If both switches test out OK, then it's likely an internal short in the window motor module.
It's defiantly a bad switch it's shorting out internally with the constant 12V i had a chance to play around with it today with my power probe.
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